Building mobile home additions is a popular home improvement project. In fact, additions are the #1 choice for remodeling and improvement projects for homeowners. Adding mobile home additions are a great way to add additional square footage without incurring much debt. It’s much more affordable to ‘grow as you go’ than it is to buy a whole new home!

Surprisingly enough, mobile home additions aren’t that complicated. Yes, you will have to deal with permits, codes, and inspections, but with the right know-how, you can do it yourself. Of course, you can always hire contractors to build the addition, but if frugal living is your goal, and money is tight, you can be your own contractor and save a lot of money. Building mobile home additions is a great DIY project for those that are comfortable with basic construction and building methods.

My husband and I are planning an addition for our own home that will extend the living room and our daughters bedroom by 8 feet. The total length of the addition will be 22 feet long – adding a total of 176 square feet to our home. That’s more than 25% of our current living space. It will be like a whole new home when we get it finished and I can’t wait!  I figured since I get quite a few questions about additions and I’ve been doing the research for our own build, that I would write this article. It should answer all the most basic questions and get you started in the right direction.

Mobile Home Additions illustration


Home Addition Advice from Professionals

First and foremost, mobile home construction professionals say that if your home is simply on cinder-blocks, without poured footings that are below the frost line (called frost line footings)- an addition should not be attached to the home at all. In that case, you would have to build the addition as a completely separate unit that is simply butted up to the home and sealed. However, from what I’ve read, some don’t even recommend that – several professionals actively try to talk you out of all additions for mobile homes, but I think with some common sense, and the right knowledge anything is possible. If there’s a will, there’s a way!

mobile home addition 2


mobile home additions

Additions to manufactured homes are not often seen as an ‘improvement’ – meaning it won’t increase the value of the home in most cases. It won’t change the classification of a manufactured home into a regular home for financing or insurance. It won’t help you in any way, other than having more room. Financing  and insurance may be harder to obtain if your home has been modified in any way – including additions.

With all that said, mobile home additions are perfect projects for those of us that know what we are getting into and believe the advantages far out weight the disadvantages. If your home is paid for, and you don’t plan on refinancing or trying to obtain a home equity loan, they can be turned into a true dream home with additions and modifications  – just know what you are getting into before you start.

Permits and Inspections

Some states have mandates that override local and county regulations when it comes to manufactured homes. Research properly for your location before you begin planning anything. You could run into so much red tape that the project ends before it even begins.

You will be dealing with one of 2 scenarios  – first, you live outside of city limits so you can build an addition with no inspections needed. No permits, codes, inspections or added expenses will be incurred. However, you are on your own and the safety of your home and your family is in your hands. Handle them with care!

The second scenario is the one most of us will face – we live in a town or park that requires permits, inspections and fees. I’ll not get into the political aspects of this – but I will say permits and regulations have all gotten out of hand in the last few years. Completely out of hand.

It took me 8 phone calls, a trip to the city hall, and a trip to the county courthouse before I was able to start the permit process for our addition. The fact that we would have no electricity or plumbing added to the addition stumped them, and they couldn’t figure out how to make more money off of us if we didn’t need the plumbing or electrical inspections at $150 each. The 1% permit fee calculated from the estimated total cost of the addition ($1600 in our case), seemed to low for them, I guess. I’m still waiting on the final word – and the permit.

Footings for Mobile Home Additions

Essentially, you want your manufactured home addition to be a completely separate structure from your home if the homes foundation does not meet the permanent foundation regulations for frost line specifications for your area. If your home is situated on a permanent foundation that meets the frost line specs, your build will be more like a regular stick-built addition. For the sake of space, I’m going to be speaking about additions for a home that is not on a permanent foundation because that describes my home and most others that I know. The only ‘attachment’ for the later will be at the floor, roof and wall – you aren’t exactly attaching the addition, you are simply sealing around it to prevent leaks. You can design the addition to be equal in height with your home, lower (which is often an easier method of building an addition), or higher than the home. Building lower or higher can allow an easier roof attachment or sealing, but it will require steps or ramp. Decisions, decisions!

Regardless of the height that you will be using, you will need footings. There’s poured footers, cinder blocks, and piles. Footings for a mobile home addition should be determined by the depth of the frost line of your area, even if your home does not have the frost line footers, so that shifting is minimal. Here’s a map showing the frost line depths:

frostline depth

Footings or padding simply needs to do 2 things- insure the addition doesn’t sink or shift, and make sure it’s even to the height of the home as possible, unless of course you are going with a lower addition that will have a step going down into the added room. If you live in a frost free area, you can use footing pads – they will suffice.

There’s some great online resources about foundations. Front Porch Ideas and More (.com), has some nice illustrations that show the poured concrete and pier footings. front porch 5

addition foundations


pouring a pier foundation

There’s lots of new products hitting the market to aid in DIY footings – I like the concept behind square foot concrete forms.

square foot

 Framing an Addition

Standard framing techniques apply for additions. You want the additions framing to be equal to, or better, than the framing your home has. When it comes to insulation, spend the money. Below shows a mobile home addition being framed out by SM Construction.


A great blog called Dovetail Blog  shares their mobile home addition process in detail. It’s a small addition but the end results are beautiful:

mobile home before addition


mobile home addition - foundation poured


mobile home during addition


mobile home addition after

As you can see, they used poured concrete footings and extended the roof line down to the addition, keeping the pitch. The addition looks to be used as a entry way that houses the stove and is a few inches lower than the home, except for a platform that the stove sits on. Here’s the interior of the home:

mobile home addition with stove


mobile home addition kitchen after

Sealing the Walls of a Mobile Home Addition

As stated previously, a basic mobile home addition is not completely attached to the home, per se. It is simply butted up to the home and the sealed all around. Of course, you’ll have to determine if your opening from the home to the addition will be a simple doorway or a complete opening. Doorways are easier to close up should the home ever need to be moved or the addition removed. Wide openings allow for a true room addition though. Either way, you want the addition and the home to shift independently and only have a minimal connection that doesn’t impede the separate movement.

To seal the gaps between the home and the addition you will need to use weatherstripping, flashing, backer rod, caulking, and regular ole boarding. Backer rod is just a fancy name for round foaming that can be used as a membrane between the 2 structures.

You will want to attach a wide board (1×6 should do it) to the home on the vertical – so that the addition will butt up against the middle of the board. You’ll attach another board to the side of the addition, along with a lip. Predrill some holes in the board on the side of the home, add the weatherstripping and then screw the lip on the addition to the board on the house – this brings the addition toward the home and helps seal it. You will then use flashing and vinyl siding to cover it all up and make it look good.

Roofing Your Mobile Home Addition

The roofing on a mobile home addition depends if the additions roof is lower, higher or equal to the homes roof.

To connect the additions roof to home if the addition is lower then the roof on your home, you will need to use flashing to seal the gap between the home and the addition. There’s also rubber roofing that could work well though I’ve been unable to find anything on the use of it for mobile home additions. For the metal roof and flashing, you would tuck a single length of 18″ flashing, that has been bent to the needed angle, place the flashing under the homes roof edge and over the addition roof. Attach to both with screws. Using the 2″ neoprene flashing tape is always a good idea, and always seal the screws with weatherproof caulking (neoprene based). One note about the flashing, you want as long a piece as possible, but you don’t want it to long. If the flashing is too long it can cause cracks.

If the 2 roofs are at the same height, you just use flashing. Screw and seal. There’s a rubber roofing that would work well and there’s also a rubber membrane that’s 24″ wide that professionals recommend for this situation.

If the addition roof is higher than the roof on your home, you add the flashing under the lip of the additions roof and over the homes roof (the opposite of above). This creates what roofing professionals call valleys and are problematic areas on any home. Special care should be made to keep water from sitting in the valley that is created.

Below is a graphic I found on Mobile Home Repair that shows a concept for sealing a mobile home addition. The top drawing shows a a cap built onto the home (labeled Alum Cap) and a piece of wide weatherstripping folded over to make a bulb shape and screwed into a board on the top edge of the addition.

The bottom drawing is showing the home and addition from the top, looking down. A flexible vinyl with fiberglass insulation is used to seal the sides of the addition to the home. It allows the needed movement required if your home is not set on a permanent foundation that is set below the frost line – the best method to prevent shifting of a manufactured home.

This concept is smart but there’s no way to seal the corners of the addition. I think some good ole American ingenuity could be used and as long as the material you use to seal is fire retardant and safe, you could come up with a way to do it. Think about chinking a log cabin and you should be able to figure out a way that works and passes inspections.

home checklist


Examples of Mobile Home Additions

Look at the home below, without judging its appearance (because it could look just fine with some new siding). You are seeing a mobile home addition that did pass inspection and can be found on The Inspector Blues blog. It is independently supported, has wired smoke detectors, an exit, sits on a 18″ grade, and is built with pressure treated wood. It may not be great looking but it had what it needed to pass its inspections and current codes are not lax at all.

trailer addition

Here’s a park model manufactured home getting an addition built onto it:

park model addition



Another park model manufactured home addition and carport built by HorseFly Construction:

single wide park model mobile home addition


The next photo shows a huge addition built onto a double wide manufactured home by Addon Rooms:

double wide mobile home additions



There’s a couple of featured homes with additions here on MMHL:


The basic concept to mobile home additions is to keep the addition separate from the home, while still allowing a connection that is weatherproof and leak proof. Inspectors and building consultants are available at your local and state agencies, use them to your advantage. Make sure you understand the rules and can get your home addition to pass inspection. You want a safe, long lasting addition that will make your home work better for you and your family.

If you have any questions, please feel free to add them in the comments and I’ll try my best to find you an answer. As always, thank you for reading Mobile and Manufactured Home Living!


57 Responses

  1. Deb Bushee

    hi crystal , I am wondering if you have any in formation (plans) on slideouts partically
    manual pushout pull in types ? sincerely deb

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Deb,

      I’m sorry, I don’t. Slide-outs are more of an RV thing nowadays (even though they got the idea from the old mobile homes). Google RV blogs and or RV Slide out info and you’ll probably find something to get you started. Best of luck!

  2. Brandon Bartley

    I have a question about building an addition to my single wide mobile home in Delaware. I am building a 14×23 addition onto the front side of the mobile home. The mobile home is sitting on blocks under the two main I beams not on pillars or foundation. I’m planning on not attaching the addition walls to the mobile home because of this. The addition roof will extend above the mobile home roof due to trying to keep the floor level the same as the mobile home. Can the A frame addition roof be attached to the mobile home?

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Brandon!

      How you handle the roof ‘connection’ and design is the trickiest part of any addition build. Pretty sure you can ‘attach’ just about any kind of roof to the home based on your local code and regulations.

      My basic understanding is that you would build the addition to meet the home (butting up onto it with an appropriate pitch for runoff) and then use valley metal to connect the two roofs together (or whichever material you choose to create your valley where home and addition meet, there’s copper, rubber, etc). You have a couple different ways to handle the shingles (there are different cuts you can use to handle the valley: weave and the California cut are the ones I’ve heard used the most).

      Best of luck!

  3. Kelly

    Im looking to add a bedroom onto my mobile home…can it be done at $2000 or under? Im thinking either a nursery or the master. Thinking if I’m going to add might as well get a bigger bedroom. Im assuming I have footings because I don’t have blocks.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Kelly,

      I priced an 8′ x 12′ (ish) addition for our single wide in WV at $1600 just for ‘basic’ construction materials (no interior finishing, no plumbing, minimal windows, etc). If you do the labor yourself and don’t have to pull too many permits or get too many inspections you may be able to do it for less than $2500(ish) but that’s probably stretching it.

      The foundation of your manufactured home will not matter at all because the addition must be built as a completely separate structure. It will have its own foundation and is only ‘sealed’ to the home.

      I’m under the assumption that any kind of building project costs almost double on the West coast so your location will influence cost greatly. Hope that helps! Best of luck!

  4. lyndsey christ

    I was wondering if you have any advise for taking out the 20foot section on the exterior wall in our kitchen and living room. We already have an addition there as a porch. I would like to take out the wall and make our living and kitchen space larger. We have a single wide. Also any advise on moving breaker box, furnace and water tank. I would like to add a laundry/utility room. Thank you

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Lyndsey,

      That’s way over my head! Regulations are different but I’m pretty sure there is a ratio they use to determine those types of projects (total length versus total removal). You can’t lose the integrity of the home and that is derived from the roof down so the walls are vital. Keep in mind that for additions, you’ll need the new structure to be completely separate from the home itself.

      You will want to get an engineer involved. Every homeowner that I’ve seen do this has had issues eventually because they enforced the home like a site-built and not the manufactured home that it is.

      Best of luck!

  5. sue

    We put our MF home on the market and it sold in four days. It was built in ’92 and at the same time a 21/2 garage was added. We are the third owners and had no problem getting appraised properly and getting a conventional loan when we bought in 2003. NOW the appraiser won’t recommend the lender loaning the funds to the new buyer because he doesn’t know if the integrity of the home has been compromised by the adding on of the garage though there have been no issues with the home during these 24 years since it was built. They want to see permits/plans/whatever that are now in storage by the county where it was built.
    Are MF homes unable to be sold that have additions in Wa. State (Kitsap county)? We’re told we will need an L&I inspector out here to look at it though we needed no such thing 13 years ago.
    My question is, if they can’t obtain the plans, will the inspector know if it’s a worthy structure and we would be able to sell then? Thanks.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Sue,

      It’s 100% dependent on the city or county laws. In the last decade just about every town, county, and state have initiated many new laws and regulations to create revenue (and jobs).

      Kinda sounds like they are concerned that your addition is bearing on the manufactured home and they want to make sure it was constructed properly (as a completely separate and freestanding structure from the home).

      You’ll want to hire an inspector that is qualified on manufactured homes (they’re out there, just a little hard to find).

      Here’s a very informative website written by expert mobile home inspectors. There’s tons of great information!

      Best of luck!

      • sue

        Wanted to let you know after getting an Engineer to inspect and approve the garage (24 years later!) we were able to close on our home.
        The lender was satisfied with his report, which he said it was done properly. He couldn’t believe he was needed in the first place!
        Just another way for the bureacrats to squeeze more money out of property owners and get their noses in our business, if you ask me.
        Thanks for your time.

      • Crystal Adkins

        Great news Sue! Congratulations! Please keep me in mind after you get all settled – I’d love to see/share/feature your new home!

  6. loree

    Hi! Do you have any before and after pictures of added additions? We are considering adding square footage to our bedroom by knocking out the exterior wall in our bedroom and also adding a new bathroom. We will turn our existing master bath into a walk in closet. We are also thinking about lifting the pitch of our roof and adding a new higher metal roof. Any info would be much appreciated as we are both nervous about this undertaking. We have also considered just removing our double wide from our property and building a new stick built house but we are thinking a renovation and adding additional square footage would get us what we need. With as much as we’d like to do, I’m not sure which way would be more cost effective though :)

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Loree,

      Unfortunately the only addition images I have are at this link:

      There’s a single wide that shows before and after images but that’s about it. I have a hard time finding images of mobile homes (which is why I started MHL – I wanted to see actual photos of our homes and not all site-built

      Sorry I can’t be more help!

  7. Frank

    I have been living in a mobile home park for years and made additions to my mobile home. Now 30 homes are being EVICTED with 90 day notice due to owner selling land for state construction. I have to remove my mobile home from rental lot but doing so will leave 75% of the front of my home exposed due to the addition. Any advice?

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Frank,

      I’m so sorry you’re dealing with this! Parks are closing at an astounding rate all across the country and there are little protections for the lot renters. I hope they are giving you a fair price for your trouble.

      As long as the home didn’t lose any structural integrity (none of the perimeter studs or framing was removed during the addition’s construction) you should be able to move the home – you’ll just need to brace it and put plastic wrap on the door openings during the transport. To move the addition you will need to have a flat bed transport and they will need to jack the addition up and slide it onto their bed (much like they do large pre-built buildings and garages).

      If the home’s framing was modified, you’ll need to get an engineer in there to take a look. I hope it all works out well for you! Please let me know how it goes!

      You may need to

  8. Perla

    Is it possible to live in the main home while the addition is being built and sealed or is there a certain piont when you have to move out for a bit. Even if hiring contractors and builders.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Perla,

      Since the addition is a completely separate structure you can absolutely live in the home the entire time it is being constructed. Only when you are cutting through to ‘attach’ the home to the addition will there be any activity done to the home itself.

      Thanks so much!

  9. Lucy

    I would have to politely disagree with the comment that non-city homeowners can do as we please and are exempt from the pure H– of permits. I live in a rural area miles from anything, and can’t even see a neighbor from my property. However, obtaining permits are a nightmare for anyone who wants to put up a shed or animal shelters, and forget letting Grandma live in a travel trailer on the back Forty like folks used to.
    In the last fifteen years, our county building department staff have become beyond petty, while ignorant of basic building techniques. They get sued a dozen times a year for fining people inappropriately. Small-town nepotism insures they’ll never be fired, so…..
    Many people in my area go ahead and do what they have to, then worry about getting caught and fined later. Trying to do it legally often results in conversations across the Permit Department counter that boggle the mind. “I have to hire a Structural Engineer to draw up plans for a dog kennel?”
    I would still recommend finding out what you are SUPPOSED to do, if the local staff is professional and knows their job. Just be forewarned that idyllic life in the country is often subject to local politics and contradictory policy, just like city government.

    Best wishes to all. It’s great to see so many people enjoying their mobile homes.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Thanks for the comment Lucy.

      I’m sure every state is different. In all the states I’ve been in (WV, VA, NC, SC, FL) homeowners out in the ‘country’ had little to no inspections or permit requirements. I understand a lot of local governments are changing that because it is another revenue stream and we know how governments love revenue!

  10. Robert

    I’m trying to find out if it is possible to put below ground footings on the edge around my mobile home, instead of inside below the attached metal beams. the idea I had was to put a beam, either metal or wood just inside the skirting with 18 inch footing supporting the blocks or other supports for the beam. so far, I cant seem to find who would know this. If it matters, I live in the texas panhandle, just above where the map shows a switch from <6 to 6 to 18 inches. I know moving the mobile home would add $2000 dollars or more to the project.

    I would appreciate if you could tell me who I would have to talk to about this.

    once I get this done, I'm planning on adding several addition over the next few years.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Robert,

      I’m not sure I understand what you’re wanting to do.

      My generic answer would be that as long as your home is properly supported how your builder recommends (which is typically a pad or pier footers below the frost line and strategically placed under the chassis. The chassis’ are designed for that particular home’s weight and design so any modification would likely stress quickly. You can Google your make and model and see if you can find a installation manual for your home (or a similar model)

      Best of luck!

  11. Wade Joseph

    I am trying to find out if I can add a second story to my manufactured home (essentially a double wide) that we purchased from the original owners 10 years ago and have now almost outgrown. I have not had much luck. Some contractors have told me “If it has 2×6 wall construction its no problem.” I live in Wisconsin and my house is on a poured slab with concrete block perimeter that the exterior walls set on and the undercarriage frame is supported by jack stands. We cannot add on in any direction but up due to the placement of the garage at one end, septic tanks at the other. To go out the front or back is not feasible and still maintain a 4/12 roof pitch required for our snow load. Any information would be an enormous help.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Wade!

      I’m no construction expert and to be 100% honest this question is totally out of my league. With that said, I’m happy to share what limited knowledge I have on the topic:

      Manufactured homes are not built to withstand the weight of a second story. Their structural integrity is achieved differently from a site-built home – from foundation to roof. They have a minimum amount of interior load-bearing walls and the exterior framing (whether it be 2×6 or 2x8s) simply isn’t going to be enough to withstand a second story.

      In order to add a second story to a manufactured home you would likely need to build a support foundation separately from the home. Think of a cage made from post and beams going into the ground every few feet around the home’s perimeter. From there, the posts would need to wrap around the roof and then the second story would be build onto that. None of the new build would touch the home – It would act as a separate unit but you would still need to correctly engineer the foundation so it wouldn’t affect the home’s current foundation.

      It would be a lot cheaper for you to move that septic tank and build an addition to the home. The addition would also be a completely separate structure to the home. It would just be ‘butted up’ against the home and sealed at the entry ways or doorways. It would then be wrapped in the same siding to make the addition and the home appear as one one. Structurally the home will settle and sway separately from the addition.

      So, while the second story on top of the home is possible, it’s going to be very expensive to do and require structural engineers. Hiring a plumbing company to relocate the septic system and building an addition would be a lot less expensive.

      Best of luck to you! Let me know what you decide!

  12. Wendy

    Thanks. Am hoping you can give me some guidance and direction.
    I have a 1300 sq ft home on permanent foundation in rural Colorado. Last year I had cedar log siding put on the outside (big improvement).
    Is it possible to add to end of the place an attached double car garage with small apartment above? My building department told me if I add 33% sq footage to home, it changes from mobile to standard construction. I am thinking a 20 x25 addition. Apartment nice if it can pay back with rental income.
    Any help suggestions would be appreciated.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Wendy!

      You can add an addition to your home as long as it meets your local codes. Additions aren’t truly attached to a manufactured home, they are built as a completely separate structure that is simply ‘butted up’ to the home so you can build whatever you want without needing to worry about it affecting the home. Typically, they are only attached around the doorway; sealed properly so it doesn’t leak and then given the same siding to create the illusion of a single home. Structurally, the manufactured home will move, settle separate from the addition of any size.

      Best of luck! Make sure to research insurance and tax increases. Manufactured homes usually have very low taxes so if you do transition the home into real property you could increase your tax liability by a significant amount.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Jim,

      No. Unless you are willing to spend tons of money to reinforce and basically rebuild the entire structure you could not build on top of a manufactured home. They are simply not designed for it.

      You could possibly build a completely separate structure above a home (with it’s own footers, rafters, etc.) using the right architectural design but I seriously doubt an inspector would allow anything like that to be built.

      I’ve seen some decks built above a couple flat-roofed mobile homes. They are really neat but the decks are not attached to the home structurally, they have their own footers that hold and distribute the entire weight of the deck down to the ground.

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  13. Debbie white

    Do you know anything about the regulations or permit process in Pierce County, WA state

  14. lori

    my husband and I would like to add on to our doublewide. Do you know of any contractors in SE North Carolina that can do this?

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Lori! Unfortunately, I don’t. You may want to call a local mobile home supply store and see if they have any recommendations. Good luck!

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  15. Kelly

    Can the addition be moved together with the mobile home when we have to move? Or will the addition have to stay?

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Kelly!

      If the addition is properly built it can typically be moved. It will to be transported via a flat bed truck (assuming it’s not too large) and then reattached to the home once the foundation/footers has been laid. Most transportation companies will charge extra for that service so make sure to factor it into overall cost.

      It’s usually a good idea to wait till the home has been moved to its permanent location before building an addition but if it’s already built and is in good condition and was built correctly it will be worth saving and taking with you.

      Good luck!

      Thanks so much!

  16. Eric Hamilton

    Thanks for the info on the different ideas on remodeling. You can sit and try to imagine what it would look like, but until it is done you really don’t have any ideas. Those in the for front are the ones taking the chances in the models they come up with. I personally think doing your OWN remodel is 10 times harder than having someone do it for you. You end up taking your time and changing it a 1000 times and then the frustration………….

  17. Tara

    We are In ga and considering an addition of a den/ library and a bedroom off that. Your site is helping us soon much.

  18. Free

    Any info regarding adding on to a park model rv or travel trailer? Like the rules and regs if any? It’s sitting on metal piers in LA County, Lancaster, Ca. Thanks a bunch!

    • Crystal Adkins

      Howdy! I’m not at all familiar with California codes but I suspect they have very stiff regulations for all building projects. Still, adding onto a travel trailer or park model would be the same as described in this article. You wouldn’t attach the addition to the unit at all, it will simply be butted up to it and then sealed around the openings.

      I would check your city hall or court house and see what their codes are and then go from there. As long as you don’t modify the trailer or park model (other than making the hole) you should be able to do it without causing too many headaches.

      Good luck and thanks for reading Mobile Home Living!

  19. Rodney Wilcoxen

    Karen, very interesting site, stopped in during my search for information about the type of addition I would like to make, but not sure if I can based on what I have read so far. I was hoping to run it by you so that maybe you could point me in the right direction.

    I have a doublewide, 24X52, that is currently in a park, but fully paid for. We are in the process of purchasing land that is raw, needs to be developed, that we would like to move our home on to, and then make it bigger. I would like to have built on the lot a 18X52 modular extension, which would go in-between the two halves of my home, turning it from a 24X52 to a 42X52. I was hoping to find a company that would build the extension at the factory, set it up on my property, so that when we are ready to move we could then have the mobile home moving company break apart our home, and instead of re-joining the halves together, they would attach them to the new extension, and then we would remodel with the new floor plan that we are developing for the larger home.

    My question is, do you know of any companies that would build this for us, or would we need to build it on-site ourselves? Also, I have run across some potential road blocks about how mobile homes can have additions attached, depending on the type of foundation used. Any information that you could give on this would be great. Thanks, Rodney

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Rodney!

      I know it would be simple enough to build onto a double wide but I’ve never seen a double wide divided with the addition in the middle. To be honest, that’s something a structural engineer would need to answer cause its way outta my league!

      Double wides are essentially 2 single wides that are joined – your biggest issue would be building the middle extension properly to support the two halves in the needed manner. I would think its possible but its probably not cheap or easy – finding a contractor willing to do it would be difficult and the permits would be a nightmare in certain areas. It would probably be more attainable if you redesigned to add the addition onto the side of the home with a ‘separate’ roof over everything. With the right technique, the roofover could even hold a second story.

      I believe anything is possible! It would definitely be different and awesome!

      Thanks so much for contacting me – please keep us informed!

  20. smitty

    i have a 10×60 and want to add on. it sits on a basement w poured concrete walls. its dry and very stable. i’m in maine with lots of rock underneath…evrtywhere. any ideas?

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hello Smitty!

      To be completely honest, I’ve never been around a manufactured home that set on a basement foundation but if I had to guess, I would think you would tackle an addition relatively similar to a regular manufactured home (assuming your codes are like West Virginias). You’d still want to keep the addition separate from the home.
      Of course, your state and local codes will be the determining factor on it. I’d call your county building permit department and ask them or maybe look up your states codes online.

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  21. Cassandra

    I live in SC.

    I was wondering if you know of a quick way to make a solid foundation to a mobile home without moving it. I am interested in adding to my mobile home BUT if I do, I want insurance to cover what I put into it. I have a Mobile Home deeded to the land and considered real property. Its bricked in. I attached a link to my plan that I’m contemplating doing. State Farm (my insurance) will not cover any add ons and actually void insurance if attempted. Someone at State Farm stated, “Insurance to Value” may be a way to cover any additions to the home without a foundation added to a MH. Not sure, do you have any advise that can help me?

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Cassandra!

      My family has had issues with manufactured home insurance after wanting to add an addition too. Heck, my in-laws had a time getting home insurance because of their coal and wood stove and we’re going to lose ours as soon as we install it. Manufactured home insurance needs an overhaul – how do they expect us to carry insurance when we can’t get it or afford it? To be honest, I’m not that knowledgeable about insurance. I only know what I’ve been told and what I’ve researched but I don’t really know if it’s correct. I’ll try to help though!

      To answer your question about the foundation, I think cinder block may be your best bet. You already understand the difference between a permanently installed home and a home with a foundation so you have a head start on the situation. Most of the time, people (even some insurance agents) seem to think that because a manufactured home has cinder block or brick ‘foundations’ or skirting, that means the home is permanently installed but that’s not true – a permanently installed home is more about the straps and ties than the material of the skirting.

      You could have just about any type of foundation added without having the home moved. A perimeter ditch would be dug directly under the home so that you wouldn’t have to difficult a time getting the material to meet the bottom of the home perfectly. The type of material you chose, what type of padding, and your frost line would probably determine the difficulty of the project more than anything.

      You may want to check out some other insurance carriers too. It seems to me that with your home classified as real property you should be able to get insurance a lot easier and with less regulations attached to it.

      I wish you the best of luck! If there’s anything else I can help you with please don’t hesitate to contact me at

      Thanks for reading MHL!

  22. Marlies

    We are in the process of continuing adding on to our 1977 mobile home. The banks will not loan us the money to help finish this ongoing project. Any suggestions besides the bank of Home Depot or Loews? So far we have done a complete kitchen, living room, bathroom, utility room and entryway. We still have to do 2 bedrooms, the front porch and my sewing room. I have kept the pictures of what it looked like when I met my husband and some of the remodeling, if you are interested.

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Marlies! Of course I’m interested – I love to share updated manufactured homes (especially if they’re in WV)! My email is – we can work together to get the article written to your satisfaction before anything gets published.

      You’ve gotten a lot more done than we have so I should be getting advice from you but we’ve had a lot of success with Craigslist and the Re-Store. Craigslist has been very good for us- we’ve bought cinder blocks, rail road ties, lumber, tin, and even a vintage Centennial wood stove for $50 (it is awesome and I can’t wait to get it installed and use it this winter).

      Hope to hear from you soon – I’d love to feature your home!

      • Marlies

        I would love to be able to share what we have done so far with others in the same situation. I will see about getting my photos scanned into a file to share with you. Do you just want the photos or do I need to have a process written?

  23. karen

    This is great information! Adding on can seem so overwhelming and the info you’ve given is very good information to have! I agree with you 100% about the ridiculousness of permits!!! It has gotten WAY out of control.
    We’re in the middle of having an all season room added to the back of our manufactured home.. We’re having someone else build it because we just don’t have the knowledge or strength. It’s amazing how they’re doing it.. we’ll finish off the inside once they’re done building the outside. I’ll be adding pictures to my blog, when it’s done, if you want to use them later on :o)

    • Crystal Adkins


      I’ve been eye-balling your blog! Your home is perfectly country/primitive, and I love it!

      I can’t wait to see it when you’re all finished up and hopefully you’ll let me feature your home someday!

      Always great to hear from you!

  24. Allen


    Thank you so much for this post! I’ve been doing tons of research on mobile home additions and have really been coming up dry – anything I find relates to stick built structures.

    Fortunately though, if I understand your article correctly using the stick built framing and building guidelines is perfectly fine, the only difference is how the addition is tied into the existing mobile.

    Our mobile is sitting on concrete blocks with metal straps. We’re in Southern Texas so no frost problems but our soil is clay and expands/contracts quite a bit throughout the year.

    We don’t want a step-up/step-down situation so I’ve been looking into a pier and beam foundation so that the sub floor can be level with the existing mobile’s floor.

    Have you done any research on the proper joist / rim headers to use for a larger addition that’s using a pier and beam foundation? I.e. mimicking the mobile’s joist structure with steel I-Beams vs. the typical 4×4 PT beams with 2×12 wood joists.

    Love the site, this article, and all of your work you’ve put into it. Thank you!

    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Allen!

      I’m not very knowledgeable about framing to be honest. I understand the basics but that’s about it.

      I am researching and contacting a professional framer friend to get some answers for you though. Give me a couple more days and I’ll add what I learn under this comment.

      Thank you so much for the kind words and for reading MMHL. It’s always great to hear from other homeowners!


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