Building Mobile Home Additions

Building mobile home additions is a popular home improvement project. In fact, additions are the #1 choice for remodeling and improvement projects for homeowners. Adding mobile home additions are a great way to add additional square footage without incurring much debt.

It’s much more affordable to ‘grow as you go’ than it is to buy a whole new home!


Mobile Home Additions - illustration


Home Addition Advice from Professionals

First and foremost, additions should not be attached to a manufactured home at all. You have to build the addition as a completely separate unit that is simply butted up to the home and sealed.


mobile home addition- proper footings for additions


mobile home additions - additions are not attached to manufactured homes

Financing and Insurance Issues for Mobile Home Additions

Additions to manufactured homes are not often seen as an ‘improvement’ – meaning it probably won’t increase the value of the home in most cases. It won’t change the classification of a manufactured home from personal property to real estate unless the home is permanently installed.

Financing and insurance may be harder to obtain if your home has been modified in any way – including additions.

With all that said, mobile home additions are perfect projects for those of us that know what we are getting into and believe the advantages far out weight the disadvantages.

If your home is paid for, and you don’t plan on refinancing or trying to obtain a home equity loan, they can be turned into a true dream home with additions and modifications  – just know what you are getting into before you start.

Permits and Inspections

Some state mandates override local and county regulations when it comes to manufactured homes. Research properly for your location before you begin planning a mobile home addition. You could run into so much red tape that the project ends before it even begins.

You will be dealing with one of 2 scenarios. The first, you live outside of city limits so you can build an addition with no inspections needed. No permits, codes, inspections or added expenses will be incurred. However, you are on your own and the safety of your home and your family is in your hands. Handle them with care!

The second scenario is the one most of us will face – we live in a town or park that requires permits, inspections, and fees. 



Footings for Mobile Home Additions

You need your manufactured home addition to be a completely separate structure from your home. The only ‘attachment’ for the later will be at the floor so the addition will need a completely separate foundation from the home.

You aren’t technically attaching the addition, you are simply sealing around it to prevent leaks.


There’s poured footers, cinder blocks, slabs, and piles. Footings for a mobile home addition should be determined by the depth of the frost line of your area, even if your home does not have the frost line footers so that shifting is minimal.

Here’s a map showing the frost line depths for the US:


frostline depth - building mobile home additions - footers


Footers are installed below the frost line so that the addition doesn’t sink or shift.

HUD Guide on Manufactured Home Foundations and Support Structures

There are some great online resources about mobile home foundations. This guide about manufactured home foundations and supports is invaluable. 

For information about general construction footers, Front Porch Ideas and More (.com), has some nice illustrations that show the poured concrete and pier footings.

Mobile Home Additions - correct frost line footings and pier

Mobile Home Additions - correct frost line footings and pier graphic


pouring a pier foundation - Mobile Home Additions - correct frost line footings and pier


There are new products hitting the market to aid in DIY footings such as these square foot concrete forms.

Mobile Home Additions - correct frost line footings and pier - proprietary systems

Framing an Addition

Standard framing techniques apply for additions.

You want the mobile home addition to having framing that is equal to or better than the framing your home has. You’ll need to follow your local code.

Below shows a mobile home addition being framed out by SM Construction.

framing of mobile home additions


A great blog called Dovetail Blog shares their mobile home addition process in detail. It’s a small addition but the end results are beautiful:

mobile home before addition


mobile home additions - foundation poured


mobile home addition being built


mobile home additions - after


As you can see, they used poured concrete footings and extended the roofline down to the addition, keeping the pitch. The addition looks to be used as an entryway that houses the stove and is a few inches lower than the home, except for a platform that the stove sits on. Here’s the interior of the home:


mobile home additions - interior with stove


mobile home additions - interior of kitchen after

Sealing the Walls of a Mobile Home Addition

As stated previously, a basic mobile home addition is not completely attached to the home. It is simply butted up to the home and the sealed all around.

You’ll have to determine the size of your opening from the home to the addition. Doorways are easier to close up should the home ever need to be moved or the addition removed.

Wide openings create the popular open space designs. Either way, you want the addition and the home to shift independently and only have a minimal connection that doesn’t impede the separate movement. If you do opt for a wide opening between the home and the addition you will need to consider support issues for the opening. Wider openings, where studs are removed, will likely require support beams.

To seal the gaps between the home and the addition you will need to use weatherstripping, flashing, backer rod, caulking, and regular ole boarding. Backer rod is just a fancy name for round foaming that can be used as a membrane between the 2 structures.

You will want to attach a wide board (1×6 should do it) to the home on the vertical – so that the addition will butt up against the middle of the board. You’ll attach another board to the side of the addition, along with a lip. Pre-drill some holes in the board on the side of the home. Then, add the weatherstripping and then screw the lip on the addition to the board on the house – this brings the addition toward the home and helps seal it.

You will then use flashing and vinyl siding to cover it all up.


Roofing Your Mobile Home Addition

The roofing on a mobile home addition depends if the addition’s roof is lower, higher, or equal to the home’s roof.

Addition’s Roof is Lower than the Mobile Home’s Roof

To connect the addition’s roof to the home if the addition is lower than the roof on your home, you will need to use flashing to seal the gap between the home and the addition.

For the metal roof and flashing, you would tuck a single length of 18″ flashing, that has been bent to the needed angle, place the flashing under the homes roof edge and over the addition roof. Attach to both with screws. Using 2″ neoprene flashing tape is always a good idea, and always seal the screws with weatherproof caulking (neoprene based). One note about the flashing, you want as long a piece as possible, but you don’t want it too long. If the flashing is too long it can cause cracks.


Addition’s Roof is Same Height as Home

If the 2 roofs are at the same height, you just use flashing. Screw and seal.

There’s a rubber roofing that would work well. There is also a rubber membrane that’s 24″ wide that professionals recommend for this situation.

Addition’s Roof is Higher than Home’s Roof

If the addition’s roof is higher than the roof on your home, you add the flashing under the lip of the roof of the addition and over the roof of the home (the opposite of above). This creates what roofing professionals call valleys and are problematic areas on any home. Special care should be made to keep water from sitting in the valley that is created.

Below is a graphic I found on Mobile Home Repair that shows a concept for sealing a mobile home addition. The top drawing shows a cap built onto the home (labeled Alum Cap) and a piece of wide weatherstripping folded over to make a bulb shape and screwed into a board on the top edge of the addition.


mobile home additions - how to handle the roofing transition

The bottom drawing in the image above is showing the home and addition from the top, looking down. A flexible vinyl with fiberglass insulation is used to seal the sides of the addition to the home. It allows the needed movement required if your home is not set on a permanent foundation that is set below the frost line – the best method to prevent shifting of a manufactured home.

This concept is smart but there’s no way to seal the corners of the addition. I think some good ole American ingenuity could be used and as long as the material you use to seal is fire retardant and safe, you could come up with a way to do it. Think about chinking a log cabin and you should be able to figure out a way that works and passes inspections.


Examples of Mobile Home Additions

Look at the home below, without judging its appearance (because it could look just fine with some new siding). You are seeing a mobile home addition that did pass inspection and can be found on The Inspector Blues blog.

It is independently supported, has wired smoke detectors, an exit, sits on a 18″ grade, and is built with pressure treated wood. It may not be great looking but it had what it needed to pass its inspections and current codes are not lax at all.

mobile home additions - not the prettiest but it passed inspection



Here’s a park model manufactured home getting an addition built onto it. Notice how they’ve done the roof:

mobile home additions - park model with addition being built



Another park model manufactured home addition and carport built by HorseFly Construction:

single wide park model - building mobile home addition



The next photo shows a huge addition built onto a double wide manufactured home by Addon Rooms:

double wide - building mobile home additions



There are a couple of featured homes with additions here on MMHL:


The basic concept of mobile home additions is to keep the addition separate from the home, while still allowing a connection that is weatherproof and leak proof.

Inspectors and building consultants are available at your local and state agencies, use them to your advantage. You want a safe, long-lasting addition that will make your home work better for you and your family.

If you have any questions, please comment below and I’ll try my best to find you an answer. As always, thank you for reading Mobile and Manufactured Home Living!


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  1. Lil Haus says

    One thing I can not seem to find a definitive answer to is this: Can I cut thru my EXTERIOR wall… to create a larger opening that goes into my new addition, or to add a door/window where there was none?? I have not come across the full, complete explanation of this yet except; “Too hard” or, “I wouldn’t do it” or, “Call a MH contractor”… Not helpful to those of us who need to be DIYers… so let’s brainstorm this!

    We have a SINGLE WIDE, 34 foot long by 12 foot wide. We are adding on another room, off the living room slider door area, to expand said living room. Am I stuck with just that 6′ slider door hole being the only opening? Or can I cut the exterior wall back a few more feet on either side of the opening to make it all 1 smooth walled room? The front corner of the mobile home will stay as is- no changes. As I understand the corners of the exterior walls are integral to the load bearing job. But I’d like to get a few more feet of openess on either side of that 6 foot slider door hole. Usually, in a stick built house, I would add a header beam and support posts at the correct size per span foot, etc. Not sure how to do that in a mobile home where the main structural load integrity is at the exterior walls built on a chassis.

    AND: Can I cut a new doorway into an exterior wall? I’d like to cut a whole new door into the rear master bedroom where there is none. The whole wall is solid from the back corner all the way until the kitchen window; a good 20 feet. It used to be the closet. I removed that and built a laundry room right on the other side that I want to convert to a bathroom. But I need access! I need that door. Can I just frame it out like a regular house with proper header and supports?

    NEXT is this brain teaser: The previous owner had a contractor build on a bedroom off the dining room area. The access door way is the old rear exit at the back of the hallway. All done very well, EXCEPT…they LEFT the bump out dining room wall there; they just removed the windows and dry-walled around the pillars/frames of the bump out windows! It looks ridiculous! While sitting in the dining room, you’d be able to watch the poor guests in the bedroom! Not very practical. So I’d like to just open the 2 windows on the left (from ceiling down to floor- they will be opening up into the new living room we’re adding…see above) and wall up the one on the right. I don’t think bump outs (or Expandos/Tip Outs/Whatever you call em), are load bearing or supportive as far as walls go. Will I have structural problems removing those 2 old bump out window frames and pony wall under them??

    So really, not only will I be opening up the 6 foot slider door hole, but removing the whole exterior wall next to it that runs to that bump out. Hmmm. That would probably be removing about 1/3rd of the exterior wall of the entire trailer (about 10 feet of a 34′ mobile home). If I can’t do that, I’m left with an awkward L shaped space instead of 1 square great room.

    SO… long story short. CAN I CUT INTO AN EXTERIOR WALL? If so, how much? If it’s larger, how do I rework load bearing capabilities? Can we start a whole forum for this?? Thanks!

    1. Crystal Adkins says


      I’m not a professional but with every addition I’ve seen first hand an opening is cut and trimmed out like you would with a door or window. You don’t want the opening to be too wide so and I’m gonna have to say that opening up 1/3 of the home’s length will create some serious structural integrity issues on the home. There will need to be a lot of math done so that you know where to put the new posts and beams to support the weight and hold the integrity of the perimeter. Professionals really need to be involved in every step.

      I hope more knowledgeable readers can add their thoughts to this comment. I don’t know how to create a forum so we’re stuck with the comment threads. Best of luck!

      Best of luck!

    2. hunter says

      In 1977 my dad put two older single wide mobile homes together and connected them with an eight foot framed out opening in the wall.

      1. Crystal Adkins says

        Hi Hunter!

        I would love to see pictures! I’ve had a vision in my head about bringing in another single wide and attaching it to ours. I’m always curious to see how others have done it.

        Thanks for reading and commenting!

  2. Kimberly says

    Hello, my name is Kim. My husband and I are discussing building a bedroom addition to our double-wide manufactured home for our oldest daughter. While the structure would be separate we would extend the heating duct from our kitchen to the room. Would that be an issue? While my husband is capable of adding the duct work, would it cause problems if he did it himself rather than hiring a licensed professional?

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Kimberly,

      I’m not very knowledgeable about HVAC but I’m pretty sure it’s usually not a problem to extend the ducting from your heating unit as long as it can handle it (there’s a fine line between a furnace that is too small or too large for a home and both are not energy efficient). As far as hiring a licensed professional, it’s all about your location. I’m all for DIY but legally I need to say that you need to follow all laws in your town. In some cases, it may be cheaper to install a separate unit in the addition because hiring a pro is pretty expensive. You can get a wall mounted heating unit for $300 – 800.

      Best of luck!

  3. Steven says

    I ask questions occasionally as Your blog covers questions I have rolling around in my head on a daily basis. I will probably have to take over ownership (and payments) of a 96 Fleetwood doublewide home. It was once a beautiful home but is now in sad shape. The question involves the roof line. You know how they are usually built with a separate pitch over the front door? The little triangle gable (entry pediment)? The design is flawed. The water during heavy rains wraps around and under the eave and will/has rotted it. I ponder something daily. Can that be easily removed? And just have the normal roof pitch all the way down the front of the home? I actually do not favor the look of the entry pediment. And adding a porch onto it multiplies the “ugh” factor. The roofing has reached its life expectancy limit and will need replaced very soon. If it is an uncomplicated task then I would love to remove it. The front door is set back a little so there will be no real need for the pediment especially since I will more than likely have a gutter ran the length of the home. If you know any instances of this being done I would sure love to hear about it. Thank you! Love the site. Keep up the good work!

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Steven,

      I know exactly what you are talking about but I cannot recall ever seeing one removed. On all the roofing jobs I’ve seen they always leave them.

      I honestly have no idea how to answer your question. There would be a structural modification to the roof (which is how manufactured homes derive most of their structural integrity) so it could potentially mess some serious stuff up if you don’t do it correctly. Sorry I can’t help more – it’s a really good question but one that is way above my head.

      Best of luck! Let me know how it goes if you decide to do it!

  4. Linda says


    Do you know where I would find information about replacing a window with a patio slider door?

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Linda,

      You’ll probably want to look for the door manufacturer’s manual. Other than that, I’m not sure as it would be based on design. Sorry.

  5. K. McCoy says

    Hello Crystal,

    I am Planning on adding on to my manufactured home and i have some questions.
    First of all i love you’re site it has been amazing reading thru all of these posts!! I own a home that is 13′-6″ by 66′ and i want to add on to the back side going 16′ by the 66′ so my home will be 29′-6″ by 66′. I plan on butting up to the original and keeping the addition a seperate structure. Now here is by question, is it ok to build a whole new roof truss going off of the front of the manufactured home to the back of the addition? Thank you for your help!

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      That sounds like a great addition – you’re gonna have so much more space! To be honest, I don’t know the answer to your question. Roofing is always the trickiest part because each state/city have different rules. Sorry I can’t help!

  6. Chad says

    hi my wife and I have a trailer home ( mini-home ) we call it and my wife is in a wheel chair, we were thinking about adding a piece to the front and going the whole length of the trailer with a piece about 10 or 12 feet wider to make room for her in the wheel chair because right now she has issues with the accessibility to our bedroom which is on the end and also the washroom which is also located towards the end and our hallway needs to be widened. on the opposite side is our oil furnace and as well as our washroom that we recently done and two other rooms one we use for a small spare bedroom and a storage room as well as our small linen closet and our washer and dryer, we do not want to disturb this side because we feel it would be better to widen our trailer on the opposite side especially where we have all ready spent $5000.00 plus on our washroom. So we are deciding on adding a piece so we can have a roll in shower with tile that she can roll right in as well the hallway would be widened which would make the accessibility for her a lot easier. we would like your input any suggestions for a floor plan would make it great. thanks and hope to hear from you real soon.

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Chad!

      Adding an addition will be expensive but possible. When I priced our addition plan (8 feet wide by 24ish feet long) I came up with around $2500 in materials with 2 cheap windows and the bare basics on everything with no plumbing or electricity factored in. I never checked on labor because we were going to do it ourselves. In the contractor’s world, you usually get a minimum price of $110-150 per square foot on additions (in my area anyway, CA would be a lot more).

      You may want to look into knocking the walls back in the hallway to give her more room. This wouldn’t be as expensive but you’d lose some space in the rooms (but gain it in the hallway). Depending on your home’s layout you may want to look into extending the rooms out to the exterior wall and getting rid of the hallway completely, too. She could just move through the rooms and not be restricted by a narrow hallway.

      Best of luck!

  7. Deb Bushee says

    hi crystal , I am wondering if you have any in formation (plans) on slideouts partically
    manual pushout pull in types ? sincerely deb

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Deb,

      I’m sorry, I don’t. Slide-outs are more of an RV thing nowadays (even though they got the idea from the old mobile homes). Google RV blogs and or RV Slide out info and you’ll probably find something to get you started. Best of luck!

  8. lyndsey christ says

    I was wondering if you have any advise for taking out the 20foot section on the exterior wall in our kitchen and living room. We already have an addition there as a porch. I would like to take out the wall and make our living and kitchen space larger. We have a single wide. Also any advise on moving breaker box, furnace and water tank. I would like to add a laundry/utility room. Thank you

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Lyndsey,

      That’s way over my head! Regulations are different but I’m pretty sure there is a ratio they use to determine those types of projects (total length versus total removal). You can’t lose the integrity of the home and that is derived from the roof down so the walls are vital. Keep in mind that for additions, you’ll need the new structure to be completely separate from the home itself.

      You will want to get an engineer involved. Every homeowner that I’ve seen do this has had issues eventually because they enforced the home like a site-built and not the manufactured home that it is.

      Best of luck!

  9. sue says

    We put our MF home on the market and it sold in four days. It was built in ’92 and at the same time a 21/2 garage was added. We are the third owners and had no problem getting appraised properly and getting a conventional loan when we bought in 2003. NOW the appraiser won’t recommend the lender loaning the funds to the new buyer because he doesn’t know if the integrity of the home has been compromised by the adding on of the garage though there have been no issues with the home during these 24 years since it was built. They want to see permits/plans/whatever that are now in storage by the county where it was built.
    Are MF homes unable to be sold that have additions in Wa. State (Kitsap county)? We’re told we will need an L&I inspector out here to look at it though we needed no such thing 13 years ago.
    My question is, if they can’t obtain the plans, will the inspector know if it’s a worthy structure and we would be able to sell then? Thanks.

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Sue,

      It’s 100% dependent on the city or county laws. In the last decade just about every town, county, and state have initiated many new laws and regulations to create revenue (and jobs).

      Kinda sounds like they are concerned that your addition is bearing on the manufactured home and they want to make sure it was constructed properly (as a completely separate and freestanding structure from the home).

      You’ll want to hire an inspector that is qualified on manufactured homes (they’re out there, just a little hard to find).

      Here’s a very informative website written by expert mobile home inspectors. There’s tons of great information!

      Best of luck!

      1. sue says

        Wanted to let you know after getting an Engineer to inspect and approve the garage (24 years later!) we were able to close on our home.
        The lender was satisfied with his report, which he said it was done properly. He couldn’t believe he was needed in the first place!
        Just another way for the bureacrats to squeeze more money out of property owners and get their noses in our business, if you ask me.
        Thanks for your time.

      2. Crystal Adkins says

        Great news Sue! Congratulations! Please keep me in mind after you get all settled – I’d love to see/share/feature your new home!

  10. loree says

    Hi! Do you have any before and after pictures of added additions? We are considering adding square footage to our bedroom by knocking out the exterior wall in our bedroom and also adding a new bathroom. We will turn our existing master bath into a walk in closet. We are also thinking about lifting the pitch of our roof and adding a new higher metal roof. Any info would be much appreciated as we are both nervous about this undertaking. We have also considered just removing our double wide from our property and building a new stick built house but we are thinking a renovation and adding additional square footage would get us what we need. With as much as we’d like to do, I’m not sure which way would be more cost effective though :)

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Loree,

      Unfortunately the only addition images I have are at this link:

      There’s a single wide that shows before and after images but that’s about it. I have a hard time finding images of mobile homes (which is why I started MHL – I wanted to see actual photos of our homes and not all site-built

      Sorry I can’t be more help!

  11. Frank says

    I have been living in a mobile home park for years and made additions to my mobile home. Now 30 homes are being EVICTED with 90 day notice due to owner selling land for state construction. I have to remove my mobile home from rental lot but doing so will leave 75% of the front of my home exposed due to the addition. Any advice?

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Frank,

      I’m so sorry you’re dealing with this! Parks are closing at an astounding rate all across the country and there are little protections for the lot renters. I hope they are giving you a fair price for your trouble.

      As long as the home didn’t lose any structural integrity (none of the perimeter studs or framing was removed during the addition’s construction) you should be able to move the home – you’ll just need to brace it and put plastic wrap on the door openings during the transport. To move the addition you will need to have a flat bed transport and they will need to jack the addition up and slide it onto their bed (much like they do large pre-built buildings and garages).

      If the home’s framing was modified, you’ll need to get an engineer in there to take a look. I hope it all works out well for you! Please let me know how it goes!

      You may need to

  12. Lucy says

    I would have to politely disagree with the comment that non-city homeowners can do as we please and are exempt from the pure H– of permits. I live in a rural area miles from anything, and can’t even see a neighbor from my property. However, obtaining permits are a nightmare for anyone who wants to put up a shed or animal shelters, and forget letting Grandma live in a travel trailer on the back Forty like folks used to.
    In the last fifteen years, our county building department staff have become beyond petty, while ignorant of basic building techniques. They get sued a dozen times a year for fining people inappropriately. Small-town nepotism insures they’ll never be fired, so…..
    Many people in my area go ahead and do what they have to, then worry about getting caught and fined later. Trying to do it legally often results in conversations across the Permit Department counter that boggle the mind. “I have to hire a Structural Engineer to draw up plans for a dog kennel?”
    I would still recommend finding out what you are SUPPOSED to do, if the local staff is professional and knows their job. Just be forewarned that idyllic life in the country is often subject to local politics and contradictory policy, just like city government.

    Best wishes to all. It’s great to see so many people enjoying their mobile homes.

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Thanks for the comment Lucy.

      I’m sure every state is different. In all the states I’ve been in (WV, VA, NC, SC, FL) homeowners out in the ‘country’ had little to no inspections or permit requirements. I understand a lot of local governments are changing that because it is another revenue stream and we know how governments love revenue!

  13. Robert says

    I’m trying to find out if it is possible to put below ground footings on the edge around my mobile home, instead of inside below the attached metal beams. the idea I had was to put a beam, either metal or wood just inside the skirting with 18 inch footing supporting the blocks or other supports for the beam. so far, I cant seem to find who would know this. If it matters, I live in the texas panhandle, just above where the map shows a switch from <6 to 6 to 18 inches. I know moving the mobile home would add $2000 dollars or more to the project.

    I would appreciate if you could tell me who I would have to talk to about this.

    once I get this done, I'm planning on adding several addition over the next few years.

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Robert,

      I’m not sure I understand what you’re wanting to do.

      My generic answer would be that as long as your home is properly supported how your builder recommends (which is typically a pad or pier footers below the frost line and strategically placed under the chassis. The chassis’ are designed for that particular home’s weight and design so any modification would likely stress quickly. You can Google your make and model and see if you can find a installation manual for your home (or a similar model)

      Best of luck!

  14. Jim says

    Is it possible to build on top of a mobile home with a peaked roof

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Jim,

      No. Unless you are willing to spend tons of money to reinforce and basically rebuild the entire structure you could not build on top of a manufactured home. They are simply not designed for it.

      You could possibly build a completely separate structure above a home (with it’s own footers, rafters, etc.) using the right architectural design but I seriously doubt an inspector would allow anything like that to be built.

      I’ve seen some decks built above a couple flat-roofed mobile homes. They are really neat but the decks are not attached to the home structurally, they have their own footers that hold and distribute the entire weight of the deck down to the ground.

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  15. Debbie white says

    Do you know anything about the regulations or permit process in Pierce County, WA state

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Debbie, you should be able to call your court house and find out which department handles the permits. Good luck!

  16. lori says

    my husband and I would like to add on to our doublewide. Do you know of any contractors in SE North Carolina that can do this?

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Lori! Unfortunately, I don’t. You may want to call a local mobile home supply store and see if they have any recommendations. Good luck!

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  17. Eric Hamilton says

    Thanks for the info on the different ideas on remodeling. You can sit and try to imagine what it would look like, but until it is done you really don’t have any ideas. Those in the for front are the ones taking the chances in the models they come up with. I personally think doing your OWN remodel is 10 times harder than having someone do it for you. You end up taking your time and changing it a 1000 times and then the frustration………….

  18. Tara says

    We are In ga and considering an addition of a den/ library and a bedroom off that. Your site is helping us soon much.

  19. Free says

    Thanks a bunch!

  20. Free says

    Any info regarding adding on to a park model rv or travel trailer? Like the rules and regs if any? It’s sitting on metal piers in LA County, Lancaster, Ca. Thanks a bunch!

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Howdy! I’m not at all familiar with California codes but I suspect they have very stiff regulations for all building projects. Still, adding onto a travel trailer or park model would be the same as described in this article. You wouldn’t attach the addition to the unit at all, it will simply be butted up to it and then sealed around the openings.

      I would check your city hall or court house and see what their codes are and then go from there. As long as you don’t modify the trailer or park model (other than making the hole) you should be able to do it without causing too many headaches.

      Good luck and thanks for reading Mobile Home Living!

  21. Rodney Wilcoxen says

    Karen, very interesting site, stopped in during my search for information about the type of addition I would like to make, but not sure if I can based on what I have read so far. I was hoping to run it by you so that maybe you could point me in the right direction.

    I have a doublewide, 24X52, that is currently in a park, but fully paid for. We are in the process of purchasing land that is raw, needs to be developed, that we would like to move our home on to, and then make it bigger. I would like to have built on the lot a 18X52 modular extension, which would go in-between the two halves of my home, turning it from a 24X52 to a 42X52. I was hoping to find a company that would build the extension at the factory, set it up on my property, so that when we are ready to move we could then have the mobile home moving company break apart our home, and instead of re-joining the halves together, they would attach them to the new extension, and then we would remodel with the new floor plan that we are developing for the larger home.

    My question is, do you know of any companies that would build this for us, or would we need to build it on-site ourselves? Also, I have run across some potential road blocks about how mobile homes can have additions attached, depending on the type of foundation used. Any information that you could give on this would be great. Thanks, Rodney

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Rodney!

      I know it would be simple enough to build onto a double wide but I’ve never seen a double wide divided with the addition in the middle. To be honest, that’s something a structural engineer would need to answer cause its way outta my league!

      Double wides are essentially 2 single wides that are joined – your biggest issue would be building the middle extension properly to support the two halves in the needed manner. I would think its possible but its probably not cheap or easy – finding a contractor willing to do it would be difficult and the permits would be a nightmare in certain areas. It would probably be more attainable if you redesigned to add the addition onto the side of the home with a ‘separate’ roof over everything. With the right technique, the roofover could even hold a second story.

      I believe anything is possible! It would definitely be different and awesome!

      Thanks so much for contacting me – please keep us informed!

  22. R.D. Hayes says

    I am hoping to get my moms rental finished by the end of this year. These tips and photos have helped me a lot.

  23. smitty says

    i have a 10×60 and want to add on. it sits on a basement w poured concrete walls. its dry and very stable. i’m in maine with lots of rock underneath…evrtywhere. any ideas?

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hello Smitty!

      To be completely honest, I’ve never been around a manufactured home that set on a basement foundation but if I had to guess, I would think you would tackle an addition relatively similar to a regular manufactured home (assuming your codes are like West Virginias). You’d still want to keep the addition separate from the home.
      Of course, your state and local codes will be the determining factor on it. I’d call your county building permit department and ask them or maybe look up your states codes online.

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  24. sue cless says

    Good information. Glad i visited.

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Thank you Sue! I appreciate you visiting!

  25. Cassandra says

    I live in SC.

    I was wondering if you know of a quick way to make a solid foundation to a mobile home without moving it. I am interested in adding to my mobile home BUT if I do, I want insurance to cover what I put into it. I have a Mobile Home deeded to the land and considered real property. Its bricked in. I attached a link to my plan that I’m contemplating doing. State Farm (my insurance) will not cover any add ons and actually void insurance if attempted. Someone at State Farm stated, “Insurance to Value” may be a way to cover any additions to the home without a foundation added to a MH. Not sure, do you have any advise that can help me?

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Cassandra!

      My family has had issues with manufactured home insurance after wanting to add an addition too. Heck, my in-laws had a time getting home insurance because of their coal and wood stove and we’re going to lose ours as soon as we install it. Manufactured home insurance needs an overhaul – how do they expect us to carry insurance when we can’t get it or afford it? To be honest, I’m not that knowledgeable about insurance. I only know what I’ve been told and what I’ve researched but I don’t really know if it’s correct. I’ll try to help though!

      To answer your question about the foundation, I think cinder block may be your best bet. You already understand the difference between a permanently installed home and a home with a foundation so you have a head start on the situation. Most of the time, people (even some insurance agents) seem to think that because a manufactured home has cinder block or brick ‘foundations’ or skirting, that means the home is permanently installed but that’s not true – a permanently installed home is more about the straps and ties than the material of the skirting.

      You could have just about any type of foundation added without having the home moved. A perimeter ditch would be dug directly under the home so that you wouldn’t have to difficult a time getting the material to meet the bottom of the home perfectly. The type of material you chose, what type of padding, and your frost line would probably determine the difficulty of the project more than anything.

      You may want to check out some other insurance carriers too. It seems to me that with your home classified as real property you should be able to get insurance a lot easier and with less regulations attached to it.

      I wish you the best of luck! If there’s anything else I can help you with please don’t hesitate to contact me at

      Thanks for reading MHL!

      1. Cassandra says

        thanks so much.

  26. Marlies says

    We are in the process of continuing adding on to our 1977 mobile home. The banks will not loan us the money to help finish this ongoing project. Any suggestions besides the bank of Home Depot or Loews? So far we have done a complete kitchen, living room, bathroom, utility room and entryway. We still have to do 2 bedrooms, the front porch and my sewing room. I have kept the pictures of what it looked like when I met my husband and some of the remodeling, if you are interested.

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Marlies! Of course I’m interested – I love to share updated manufactured homes (especially if they’re in WV)! My email is – we can work together to get the article written to your satisfaction before anything gets published.

      You’ve gotten a lot more done than we have so I should be getting advice from you but we’ve had a lot of success with Craigslist and the Re-Store. Craigslist has been very good for us- we’ve bought cinder blocks, rail road ties, lumber, tin, and even a vintage Centennial wood stove for $50 (it is awesome and I can’t wait to get it installed and use it this winter).

      Hope to hear from you soon – I’d love to feature your home!

      1. Marlies says

        I would love to be able to share what we have done so far with others in the same situation. I will see about getting my photos scanned into a file to share with you. Do you just want the photos or do I need to have a process written?

      2. Crystal Adkins says

        Hi Marlies! I’d be happy as can be with the photos alone but if you can list the things you did and any pointers you may have for us that would be great! My email is

        Thank you!

  27. karen says

    This is great information! Adding on can seem so overwhelming and the info you’ve given is very good information to have! I agree with you 100% about the ridiculousness of permits!!! It has gotten WAY out of control.
    We’re in the middle of having an all season room added to the back of our manufactured home.. We’re having someone else build it because we just don’t have the knowledge or strength. It’s amazing how they’re doing it.. we’ll finish off the inside once they’re done building the outside. I’ll be adding pictures to my blog, when it’s done, if you want to use them later on :o)

    1. Crystal Adkins says


      I’ve been eye-balling your blog! Your home is perfectly country/primitive, and I love it!

      I can’t wait to see it when you’re all finished up and hopefully you’ll let me feature your home someday!

      Always great to hear from you!

  28. Allen says


    Thank you so much for this post! I’ve been doing tons of research on mobile home additions and have really been coming up dry – anything I find relates to stick built structures.

    Fortunately though, if I understand your article correctly using the stick built framing and building guidelines is perfectly fine, the only difference is how the addition is tied into the existing mobile.

    Our mobile is sitting on concrete blocks with metal straps. We’re in Southern Texas so no frost problems but our soil is clay and expands/contracts quite a bit throughout the year.

    We don’t want a step-up/step-down situation so I’ve been looking into a pier and beam foundation so that the sub floor can be level with the existing mobile’s floor.

    Have you done any research on the proper joist / rim headers to use for a larger addition that’s using a pier and beam foundation? I.e. mimicking the mobile’s joist structure with steel I-Beams vs. the typical 4×4 PT beams with 2×12 wood joists.

    Love the site, this article, and all of your work you’ve put into it. Thank you!

    1. Crystal Adkins says

      Hi Allen!

      I’m not very knowledgeable about framing to be honest. I understand the basics but that’s about it.

      I am researching and contacting a professional framer friend to get some answers for you though. Give me a couple more days and I’ll add what I learn under this comment.

      Thank you so much for the kind words and for reading MMHL. It’s always great to hear from other homeowners!