Mobile Home Plumbing Guide

Mobile home plumbing is a bit different than plumbing in a traditional home. As a mobile homeowner it’s important to understand those differences.

This article will help you learn exactly how manufactured home plumbing differs from a site-built home and how to repair the most common mobile home plumbing issues. Let me be clear, different doesn’t mean inferior, it just means different.

Major Differences Between Site-Built and Manufactured Home Plumbing

Manufactured homes use the same basics and logistics as a site-built home. The main differences are the location of the pipes, the size of the pipes used, and the ‘simplification’ of the system due to the amazing factory-built system that has been perfected by the industry over the decades.

Supply Line Location 

The location of the plumbing pipes is different in manufactured homes simply because the homes are built differently.

Supply lines are what the water travels through to reach each fixture. In site-built homes, they are typically running inside the walls. In manufactured homes, they are almost always buried under the floor as the image below shows.

PEX plumbing water lines raising from floor joist up through floor in new manufactured homne construction - Jacobsen Homes
The hot and cold water PEX supply lines are stubbed up through the floor in mobile homes.

In manufactured homes, plumbing supply lines run under the home either in the middle alongside your heating ducts or on the side, depending on the layout and location of your water heater.

The image above is a photo of a home being built in a factory. Notice how both the hot and cold PEX water lines are stubbed up through the floor before a single wall is even placed. The construction system, along with the plumbing system, of a manufactured home is simplified for easy transport and installation but that doesn’t mean it’s inferior in any way.

Cleanouts and Cut-Off Valves

Another big difference between plumbing in a site-built home and a mobile home is the lack of cleanouts and cut-off valves in the home though newer manufactured homes have those now. There will be a cleanout where the home’s waste drain line meets the sewer or septic trunk outside.

It’s smart to have cut off valves at every water source (faucet, tubs, and toilet). However, if you have to repair or replace anything on a manufactured home plumbing system you have to cut the main valve off anyway because there’s a lot of pressure in those lines and it needs to be reduced before you start cutting into them.

Clean out and stack vent on new manufactured home install

Plumbing Pipe Sizes for Manufactured Homes

Pipe size plays a big role in a plumbing system. Using pipe that is too small for your venting can cause just as much trouble as using too small of a pipe for your waste line.

Many manufactured home builders install a smaller pipe (3″) for drainage and venting. Site-built homes would have 4″.

Myths about Plumbing in Manufactured Homes

It’s no secret that many skilled trade professionals like plumbers and electricians dislike working on manufactured homes. This is caused by a couple of myths and a couple of truths.

One myth about plumbing in manufactured homes is that there is no venting for the drain lines and that’s ridiculous. All drain-waste lines need venting to even work. Otherwise, the system would become air-locked.

Another myth is that the manufactured housing industry uses substandard and unsafe pipes. Some manufactured home builders did use plastic polybutylene and galvanized metal pipes which were standard at the time for all homes. It was later learned that the material had issues. We’ll talk about that in detail in a few moments.

3 Parts of Manufactured Home Plumbing Systems

Basically, there are 3 parts that make up the whole plumbing system: supply lines, drain-waste lines, and ventilation lines.

Supply Lines

Your water supply lines are the smaller pipes (3/8″ to 1″) that come into the home. They are usually either copper or Pex. If your home has white, cream, or a medium grey pipe for your supply lines, you will probably want to replace them as most local regulations don’t recommend them and some have banned them altogether. The water comes through 1 line and then branches at the water heater so some water can get heated, from there a hot and cold line runs parallel to the faucets, tubs, etc.

Drain Lines

Drain or waste lines are usually 3″ ABS. These systems use gravity, traps, and ventilation to ensure optimum waste removal at the sewer drop and to keep gases and fumes from building up and releasing.

Think of this as a completely closed system with a positive and negative vacuum or pressure. All the parts have to work correctly to allow the system to do what it is designed for. Without the proper positive or negative pressure acting as a vacuum in the pipes the waste won’t go where it’s supposed to, it can back-flow instead.

You have to get the grade right on drainage pipes because too much of a grade (or slant) will cause as much issue as too little. A 1/4″ to 1/2″ grade per foot is ideal.

Ventilation Pipes

Ventilation pipes help the waste lines to keep the proper pressure or vacuum – in other words, it keeps water in all the right places.  It is just as important as the supply and drain lines and you have to have ventilation in order to make it all work. Plumbing systems are much like a living thing – it has to have air and water.

A single ventilation pipe in a manufactured home won’t help the drain pipes furthest away so they use what I’ve always just called a dry vent (they also call them auto vents, check vents, or air admittance valves).

Air Vents

Air vents allow air to flow into the drains. Keep in mind that oftentimes a dry vent on a sink isn’t necessarily helping the sink it is tied into, it’s benefiting the other drains in the house. If you would like to learn more about auto vents, this article does well explaining, as does this one.

Under Pressure

Remember that water is coming into your home under a lot of pressure through your supply lines. It can turn corners and go up several stories. If you have a leak in the system, imagine how much water can be lost in just a small amount of time!

Drainage leaks are sneaky little things. Water will always follow the path of least resistance so sometimes it’s hard to pinpoint where the leak is coming from.

Common Plumbing Pipe Materials

You will need to know what type of pipe and fittings are used for each sub-system. There are basically 2 types of piping used in plumbing- metal and plastic.

Most plumbing in manufactured homes uses plastic. Plastic pipes include polyvinyl chloride (PVC), chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC), PEX pipe and PolyPipe®.  Metal plumbing pipe consists of copper, stainless steel, and galvanized steel. Not all pipes are as useful or effective as others, and each type is used for a specific purpose in plumbing.

mobile home plumbing pipe and fittings menards

Polybutylene Pipe

Polybutylene was used in all types of homes, including manufactured homes, from the late 1970’s to the mid-1990’s. Several lawsuits were filed on behalf of millions of homeowners due to issues this material had. If you had any type of bleach in your water, and most city systems do, the pipe would break down and cause leaks and complete blowouts, usually within 5-10 years. You can’t buy it anymore but it’s still in more homes than it should be. It’s a medium grey color and will have PB and some numbers on the side. If you have this in your home today, you need to replace it and then go buy a lottery ticket cause you have been very lucky to have had it this long without any issues!

If you are looking to buy an older manufactured home, do not buy it with this kind of pipe in it. Make the seller replace it or have them take the replacement cost off the price of the home (there may even be local and federal laws prohibiting the sale of a home with this type of pipe in it).


PVC is a type of plastic plumbing pipe primarily used to transport high pressured water. It is available in several standard sizes, ranging from ½ inch to 4 inches in diameter. PVC pipe is only made to handle cold water, as hot water will cause the pipe to warp. It is generally white in color, though a few varieties are gray.


CPVC pipe that has received an extra chlorination. It comes in a distinctive yellow color and can handle both hot and cold water. CPVC is more flexible with substantially thinner walls than PVC pipe and has the same outer diameter as copper pipe, which increases its range of uses.


PEX, also known as cross-linked polyethylene pipe, was first manufactured in the 1920s but has become more popular in recent years. It shares the same outer diameter as copper and can be used for both hot and cold water. However, PEX pipe has a much higher heat resistance than most other plumbing pipes and is often used in water-based heating systems. It comes in a creamy white color, as well as red and blue which is used to denote hot and cold pipes respectively.  

We recommend you replace your water lines with PEX when the time comes to update. You can use special fittings to secure the connections by hand or rent the tool needed to connect the lines. Pex, in our humblest of opinions, is the best pipe for water supply lines and is so much easier to install than anything else.


PolyPipe is a thick black pipe used to transport highly pressurized water, usually to and from the home. It is used almost exclusively outdoors and is usually buried underground to prevent freezing. PolyPipe® is extremely rigid, and is rarely used for other purposes.

Here’s a good video about a double wide re-pipe:


Copper is the most common type of plumbing pipe used in the home, although it is more expensive than plastic piping. It is especially resistant to corrosion and can withstand high temperatures. Copper pipes come in three different sizes – type M, L, and K. Type M have very thin walls, while type L is of medium thickness, and type K is the thickest of the three.


Galvanized pipe is known for rust issues and the plastic piping (polybutylene) are known to corrode and cause leaks. There’s also an issue with the connections. If you find yourself plagued with leaks, go ahead and re-pipe the home, if possible.

Galvanized pipes have been used in homes for years, typically to carry water in and out of the house. The galvanized coating prevents rusting and gives a dull gray appearance. Use of these heavy duty pipes is diminishing, as it is being replaced by PEX pipe, which is less expensive and just as durable. Galvanized pipes typically come in sizes between ½ inch and 2 inches in diameter.

mobile home plumbing

Common Plumbing Issues in Manufactured Homes

Nasty smells and weird noises

Ventilation issues are very common in manufactured homes. The most notable problem being nasty fumes and a build-up of gases that could cause some serious issues.

Ventilation makes your pipes remain at a neutral pressure. Without proper venting, your drainage slows and the water in your P-trap goes away, which in turn allows the nasty smells to escape into your home.

Think of a soda bottle: when you tip it half way, the liquid smoothly flows but when you turn it completely upside down, it makes gurgling sounds and the soda pours out slowly. That’s what happens when there’s not enough ventilation or air flow.

There are wet vents and dry vents, the roof pipe is considered a wet vent.

If you hear weird sounds coming from your walls when the water is draining (not when water is running) you most likely have a venting problem.

Venting issues are hard to find. The easiest cases will either be a clogged vent stack, separation of a vent line somewhere, or a failed auto-vent under a sink.

moisture problems in manufactured homes - bathtub leaks

Plumbing Leaks

Plumbing supply lines in manufactured homes will rarely be inside a wall so you won’t need to worry too much about damage to walls. When there is a leak it’s usually the floors, sub-flooring, insulation, and HVAC ducts under the home that get damaged.

If your flooring is made of composite wood or MDF it will soak water up like a sponge. Wet MDF eventually bows and rots.

In the end, it will be far cheaper, and less stressful, to just cap off the old lines and run new water supply lines than trying to fight with old material and patches.

Area plumbing codes will be the ultimate factor in deciding what material to use but Pex is a popular product and as long as the connections are high quality and a proper seal is made, will be your best choice for supply lines.

A monthly check under your sinks and under the home itself is a good idea.

Leaks, clogs, low pressure, obnoxious odors, and having no hot water are just a few of the issues that you may encounter. If your manufactured home is older you may have to replace the system entirely. There are lots of things that can go wrong! We’ll try to cover them all in the future.

Leaking Faucets

Leaking can occur in a couple of different places on a faucet. It’s probably easier to just replace the whole unit than repair. If you are especially attached to your faucet, this article about fixing leaking faucets should help.

Clogs in your kitchen Sink

If there is a clog in your sink, a plunger can work well. They make a smaller plunger for the task. If you have a two-sided sink, close off one side by stuffing a rag into the drain (cut off air) and plunge the other side, then switch – keep doing it until the clog is gone.

If you have clog issues frequently, it may be time to find the underlying issue. You can remove your p-trap, if it’s closed off with grease you can clean it out or replace it. You may need to add a dry vent to the next closest sink.

How to Turn Your Water Off

Knowing where and how to turn your water off in case of an emergency, or before any repair, is important. Being able to shut your water off quickly can be the difference in a complete disaster and a small inconvenience.

The first place to go is the main stop valve for your home which should be around your utility room or around your outside garden hose water connection (hose bib as some call it).

If you can’t find your home’s main stop valve you’ll need to cut the water off at the main water meter (assuming you are on a city system) or in your pump house if you are on a well system.

Most city or town supplied city water systems require a water meter key. This is a five-sided pentagon wrench that unlocks the meter cover. They come in different sizes so check what size you need.

If you can’t find a meter key you can also use a wrench and long screwdriver for a makeshift key – place a wrench straight up and down and then thread the screwdriver through the hole at the end of the wrench. The two tools will look like a T. Use the screwdriver to turn the wrench. This article about turning off your water supply is handy if you want to read more.

Once you get the cover off the water meter cover you’ll see a knob or nut that you can twist to turn the water off. To work on the home’s plumbing system you’ll need to drain the supply line system so the pressure is released.

We’ve covered the basics of plumbing in manufactured homes: how the systems work, where everything is located, and what your choices are for pipe materials. We also covered the 5 most common mobile home plumbing issues and how to troubleshoot them.

Our article, How to Diagnose and Repair Venting Issues in Your Mobile Home Plumbing System, can help you learn more about venting issues.

Thanks so much for reading Mobile Home Living!

Featured Image: 37 Sequoia Circle, Santa Rosa CA listing photos.

261 thoughts on “Mobile Home Plumbing Guide”

    • I was washing dishes in kitchen sink and all of a sudden I lost almost All water pressure in kitchen and pressure in sink in guest bathroom only hot&cold on both sinks ..where should I look its an older trailer ?

  1. I noticed there is water leaking from the side if the roof by the gutter. It is happening whenever I run water inside the home. This Mobile home was built in the 70’s. Any suggestions?

  2. I has a cracked abs drain pipe which replaced with pvc and recommended glue for the transition from abs to pvc. Cleaned and disposed of waste and threw lime under mobile home. Sometimes still get a foul smell in different areas not near drains. Is there something I can do, check or use to fix this?

  3. My mobile home is a 1973, they sealed the belly and put insulation in but I have problems with pipes freezing up, is there anything that can be done about that

  4. I need to replace my bathroom faucet aerator assembly. The original housing is plastic and chrome plated. I cannot seem to find it’s replacement. I can find ones with 1.5 gpm but was hoping to find its original of 1.2 gpm. Is it okay if I replace it with a kit from Home Depot that is metal and chrome plated? Or do I still need to look for it’s exact match?

    • I am trying to locate my shut off for my outside spigot. I went to the hot water tank and see there are 2 shut offs. One close to the floor and one going to the pipes for the hot water tank. Are either of these for the outside water?

    • I was washing dishes in kitchen sink and all of a sudden I lost almost All water pressure in kitchen and pressure in sink in guest bathroom only hot&cold on both sinks ..where should I look its an older trailer ?

  5. I have to replace the old galvanized pipes, including the hose spigot, that the feeder line from my park main attaches too. Is there any kind of pressure regulator in this section of piping? There is a white pvc part, about 3 inches, prior to the connection to the homes actual plumbing lines.

    • Hi Micheal,

      The white pvc part is likely a regulator though you can buy inline boosters that give your hose more pressure. Thanks!

    • Hi Gladys,

      You probably could repair it but buying a new one would probably be cheaper and easier. Unfortunately, they just don’t make them like they use to so don’t expect 40 years out of the new one. However, you may luck up and find some parts at a local small appliance shop. Best of luck!

  6. We live in a 3yr old park model and have noticed this past week we need to run the water now for it to get hot
    Does this sound like something serious may happen?

    • Hi Dorothy,
      I wouldn’t be able to give you an estimate without an inspection to see what needs to be done. Fortunately, most plumbing companies will give you a free onsite estimate. Best of luck!

  7. My washer is backing up in the drain pipe but my kitchen sink and dish washer is flowing. Plumber said he could not snake it.

    • Hi Jesse,

      Backflow from washers are usually a clog somewhere but if you have a new washer you may want to try a bigger drain line to give the water more room to flow. New washers are powerful and need 2″ drain lines. I don’t really understand why the plumber couldn’t at least enter a snake into the trunk line and make sure there wasn’t a clog near your kitchen though. Good luck!

  8. Hi Brittany,

    It’s probably just a loose connection somewhere on the showerhead. It’s usually cheaper and less hassle to buy a new head and install it. Let me know if that works.

  9. I have a cold water issue coming from the small bathroom toilet when filling the tank. It’s filling the sewer pipe in the master bedroom toilet. There is no water turned on to the toilet or in the tank at all. Water streams in a little at a time with each flush of the other toilet. The water is clean. How can this be??? Thanks for all the information on mobile home plumbing

    • Hi Sandra,

      It sounds like a clog somewhere. You may need new fill valves in the toilets (if it’s the tank that is filling up in the other bathroom). Best of luck!

      • Dorothy, I needed plumbing work in both my bathrooms. I was having quite a bit of work done. Complete new roof and subflooring which is a pretty frequent problem. Well I received 3 estimates for repiping since my mh is a 1990 my lowest estimate was just under $13,000 and then I’d have to retape, repair the underbelly. Well no repipe was done and the contractors couldnt replace my cracked and leaking tub or touch the cracked pipe that I found behind the tub and son’s closet. This took place right when the clovid close in began also I live south of seattle. And let’s think about how much it would have been once they started. And the fact that I cant even put my head in and look under the house. Not good news and not happening. Good luck on your pipes and hopefully the county codes are not like here.

  10. Question: I have a newer mobile home and just replaced the dishwasher. Sharkbit the old grey line into the new metal line and added another shutoff valve. The problem is that no matter how many times I turn the shutoff to wide open, I get maybe a quick spurt and then nothing. The dishwasher will not fill despite the line being open and the sports making it through both valves. Help!

    • Hi Alex,

      It sounds like you have a clog somewhere. Cut the grey line, find the clog and blow it out, or install a double shut off valve. Best of luck!

  11. I have a newer double wide with water problem. There are two bathrooms and three bathroom sinks. When I turn on the cold water side after a few seconds a smell comes out that disappears in about ten seconds. I have a well water source with good water. All of the lines coming up thru the floor to the sink have been replaced. I even replaced the faucet in one bathroom with no change. No other lines in the trailer produce a smell. Any ideas?

  12. Hi,
    My name is Marie and I own a 1989 Champion single wide 14×80. The issue I am having is that my kitchen sink is extremely slow draining. We have used a drain king, no luck and replaced the drain vent under the sink and it is slowing even more. any suggestions?

    • Hi Marie,

      Check to make sure your auto vent is working under the sink (assuming you have one). If that doesn’t work, check to ensure your vent stack coming out of your roof is not clogged and that sufficient air can move in and out of it. Third, make sure there is no grease buildup in the pipe. With grease, a drain king sometimes can’t do anything because the grease just closes right back up after the drain king is pulled back out. If it is that bad replacing the line is about the easiest way to fix it.

      best of luck!

      • I have a 9 year old manufactured home and I have a leak in the master bathroom tub area. It has a partial wall between tub & toilet. At the base of wall, water is leaking out. I’m trying to find shutoff to that tub. I shut off water to toilet but the tub is confusing me.

  13. I have a 1994 single wide that I bought a couple years ago. I have the dreaded polybutylene so I’m looking at a full re-pipe this summer. I’ll be doing it mostly by myself since I live in a state where homeowners can do their own plumbing. I’ll be doing everything with pex and I think I have most of it figured out but there are a couple of details that I don’t know about. Most of the plumbing -one bathroom, kitchen, laundry- is on the end of the house where the water heater is. I have another bathroom that is 40-50 feet away on the other end of the house. I plan on running a 3/4 inch cold line to the bathroom and branching off from there (sink, toilet, shower, and possibly a new hose bib outside in the spot). My questions are: should I run a 3/4 inch hot line there or is 1/2 inch enough to supply both the sink and the shower? And how should I support that long water line under the house? It will run down the center of the house in the cavity along the heating duct and then sideways between the joists to the bathroom. The belly is in great shape all the way so I’d rather not slice into it a whole lot but code says it needs to be supported every 32”. I’m not suuuuuper worried about code but I want it to be safe. How much can I rely on the insulation and the belly itself to support the line? What kind of support do you suggest given that I’ll have minimal access to the joists from underneath and I probably won’t even have enough space to swing a hammer when I’m under there? I won’t be removing any of the polybutylene so if it’s well supported, would tying the pex to it in some way be ok as support? (Thinking with zip ties, perhaps)
    Another question is about how to support the line that will cross the center of the house, over the heating duct to the opposite wall where my kitchen sink is. The duct itself will give some support but it’s metal and I know I need to minimize friction. What’s the best way to protect the pex in that instance?
    And lastly, how separate do I need to run the hot and cold lines? I can’t think of a good way to keep them apart as they run through the channel down the middle of my house and since I live in a northern climate I don’t want to insulate either or both of them against the warmth from the floor above. Would the hot water lose a lot of heat if it runs right next to a cold line?
    Thank you! I love your page.

    • Hi Leah,

      The 1/2″ will get you how water faster on that other side of the house which is always a plus. You’ll want to strap the PEX (just ask your plumbing supplier for strap, it comes in a roll so you can measure your own). I do want to clarify that when we say to install your water lines close to your ductwork, we don’t mean right up against. We just mean within the same cavity. Ideally, strapped up against the flooring as closely as possible so that the constant heating and cooling from the ducts don’t make the PEX brittle. You should be fine running the PEX side by side but some plumbers like to keep them 4-6″ apart for some reason (easier to work on maybe?).

      Best of luck!

      • Wouldn’t the Hot/Cold lines too close together possibly create condensation ? Just a thought. Not a plumber. Lol.

      • Hi David,

        As far as I know, it wouldn’t be an issue. The water in the lines doesn’t stay hot for long. Thanks for reading!

  14. Question: I have a plumbing problem. 1985 doublewide mobilhome. I am replacing the old garden tub with a shower pan. After taking out the tub I found a surprise, the drain is on top of the floor running into the vent pipe then down to the main line. As i will have to move the drain to place the shower pan, i was planning to building a platform for the shower pan, rather than try to move the plumbing from the vent. I will have to extend to drain another 6in under the platform in order to fit the shower. Any thoughts or suggestions?

    • Hi Michael,

      It’s probably gonna be easier to just pull the plumbing instead of the vent since the shower drain is 2″ and the bathtub drains are usually only 1.5″ (though you could use a bushing but that will make it drain slowly). Good luck!

      • Is it possible to add shutoff valves under the kitchen sink and bathroom sinks? I hate that you have to turn everything off if you want to change something or if there’s a leak. Mines 2002 double wide.

      • Hi Jackie,

        Yes, it is possible and we highly recommend it. It’s a smart update to any home but especially in a mobile or manufactured home. You should be able to do it yourself just be sure to use the higher grade braided lines.

    • Absolutely! We’ve always done it when it gets really cold. Just a slight drip is fine – you just want movement in the pipes. If possible, let the faucet that freezes most drip or the faucet furthest from your inlet/water heater.

      • In addition to letting your faucets drip, (all faucets,
        including the shower), opening your cabinet doors and shower doors is also helpful as it allows the warmer room air to get into the cabinet and shower area nd raise the temperature of the air circulating around the pipes. When its really cold outside, especially at night, we do this to every sink cabinet and shower in the house and we have had a lot of success wirh it.

  15. Hi my name is stacey I have an older mobile home still has the grey pipes under it. So the past few years I have had an issue with water pressure. Found out while doing some trouble shooting that I still had metal pipe under the ground. The metal pipe was changed last year and after that I cleaned out the hot water tank and change the elements that still made no difference in my water pressure and it’s both hot and cold. It has gotten to the point now that there isn’t even enough pressure to run the shower. Last winter my water froze and the pressure got 100 times better but since it’s gotten to be the worst it has ever been. So I changed a couple of the t’s leading to the hot water tank and the pressure is still low I didn’t even see any thing in the t’s but my thought is since when I turn the water on I get a rush of water then it dies right down so there has to be a clog in the line coming in some where. That being said I’m a single mother and I am not crawling under my house my thought is to bring the waterlines into the house and have them run along the floor or ceiling. My other question is in doing this should I stick to 1/2 inch pex or just run 3/4 inch pex? I know one of the t’s that I changed the cold going to the tank was 3/4 inch and then t’s to 1/2 inch. My thought is if I go with 3/4 inch there will b less of a chance of getting clogs in the waterline in the future. Also would it be best to run the hot along the ceiling or the floor?

    • Hi Stacey,

      So, it sounds like you have a volume problem more than a pressure issue. When you changed the main metal line was the pressure reducing valve replaced as well? You did great by updating the lines and that probably fixed a huge part of your issue (closed pipes) but if that pressure reducing valve wasn’t’ replaced it’s holding your volume back which is acting like the original problem even though it isn’t (I hope I’m explaining this well enough to understand)…With water lines, all of them should be under the floor. You don’t want to have to replace ceiling panels if there’s ever a leak.

      Best of luck! Let me know about the PRV. I’m almost certain that’s the issue.

  16. I hope you don’t mind this inquiry. I have a 22 year old double wide
    mobile home made by Chandeleur Model 2810-3B2. We started having
    fluctuations in our water pressure about a month ago (sometimes it was strong
    sometimes low with all faucets). This week the flow has been starting out strong for a few seconds, then
    goes low (less than half normal). Our outside faucet is part of the main line going to the house
    yet it’s flow is strong and doesn’t fluctuate. We do not have hard pipes, they look more like hoses
    PEX I guess. Haven.t yet had any luck finding how to talk to Chandeleur to see if they installed
    a filter for our water system. If you have any advice or insight to help me correct the problem
    it would be appreciated.

    • Hi Paul,

      It sounds like you need to replace your pressure reducing valve or your backflow preventer. They can malfunction easily. Best of luck!

  17. I bought a 1981 single wide a few years ago. for a couple of years all that leaked were a couple of windows. I had custom windows put in. Now the problem is leaks keep sprouting from the nasty blue pipes and I can’t keep up. I have nasty smells under my kitchen sink. Hallway sinking, and one bedroom has a floor that is coming apart from wall where my daughters bed is. I am afraid mold is growing somewhere where leaks are and were. What should I do. Can’t afford the high prices the plumbers want to reinforce flooring and replacing pipes?

    • Hi Janet,

      First, you really need to get the leaks fixed. Read this article and see if there’s anything in it that could help you. $40 worth of PEX and a couple of fittings could save your home from utter destruction and there are Youtube videos you can watch to help you do it yourself. Once the leaks are fixed then you can replace the soft subfloor and build the floor up to the wall.

      Best of luck!

  18. Hello. Thank you for your terrific advice in this website. I’m in Central California (Sacramento area) and I live in a 1977 mobile home in a senior mobile park. The mobile home has the original galvanized steel fresh water pipes. The pipes have corroded and the flow is greatly reduced, especially the hot water, and not the cleanest. I am going to replace the pipes with PEX. (I won’t be removing the old pipes.) My plan is to have a Hot manifold and a Cold manifold (or a combination hot/cold one) and use the home-run design to run individual water lines to each fixture. The original fresh water pipes are run above the “belly” covering and I don’t want to cut into it to run the PEX. Can I run the pipes and hang and attach them below the belly cover? Then just go thru the belly cover where I have to attach to the fixtures? If yes, anything I need to watch out for? Any advice would be appreciated.
    Kind regards,
    ~ Dave

    • Hi Dave,

      Ideally, you really would want the lines to run close to the vent/ducts of your furnace (if you get freezes) and above the belly wrap because you don’t want any holes in it. You can always patch the belly with some tape (though don’t buy the belly tape they sell at the mobile home supply store, you can find better working tapes at Lowe’s. Other than that, you have a good plan. If you can, take some pics along the way, I have a hard time finding images for DIY articles. Thanks! Best of luck!

  19. I own a single wide mobile home. Last winter i lost all water in the bathroom for about 3 days. I assumed it was frozen pipes and brought in a plumber. After snaking the lines for about an hour and a half, he determined there was no plug, and he couldnt find any freezing. He was unable to help me, charged me for his time and left. I had mentioned that the roof vent over the bathroom was buried under the snow but he kept insisting that wasnt the problem. I will mention that water was completely fine in the kitchen at the opposite end of the mobile. The water heater is in the back bedroom. We were having a very cold snap at the time. After three days, the water returned in the bathroom and everything was working fine. The pipe of the roof was clear at that point. Is it possible the buried pipe was the issue? Should I have the pipe extended so that doesnt happen this winter?

    • Hi Carole,

      The vent on your roof only affects the waste lines, not the supply lines. You probably had a little section of pipe that was frozen and the snake just didn’t reach it. Good job keeping an eye on everything though – a lot of people wouldn’t even attempt to learn how things work.

    • Your supply water has nothing to do with the drain water & its venting. You simply got ripped off by the “plumber”…because you don’t bring a snake out where there ain’t water running to be plugged. Insulate your supply line or watch the weather for temp drops below freezing so you can have your cabinet doors open to allow heat to the pipes as well as let the faucet drip slightly during the cold snap. Remember…No Water..No Snakes!

  20. Hello, we’re so very confused about how the plumbing work in a manafacture home. My son just bought his first home, this home is a newer model, but he noticed water draining out from a pipe and we can hear some kind of noises under the house, it sounds like a pump. Is this normal?

    • Hi Rosie,

      I’d need a lot more information about the home, the noise, and the drain before I can offer any guidance. What type of home, what type of drainage system (city sewer, septic, etc), type of noise, what’s the pipe look like?

  21. I have a 1993 Fleetwood doublewide mobile home. The problem I’m having is when I run the dish washer, use water in the kitchen sink or the laundry room…water backs up in the master bathroom in the tub, shower and toilet. The bathroom on the other side of the house has no problem. I have tried liquid plumber several times and it it will eventually drain, but when I use the water again in the kitchen it backs up again. If I do nothing it will also eventually drain. Also, after it drains and no water has been used for a few days, I can use the dish washer and there is no backup in the tub…but if I continue to use water it backs up again. Again the other tub, toilet and sink never back up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    • Hi LaVee,

      You have a partial clog that is holding water in your trunk line. The other bathroom would be fine since it ties into the trunk line at another point. A plumber could come in and jet the line in an hour.

  22. Not sure if my comment got through.I have a 2016 Atlantic double-wide manufactured home and am looking to do a new install on a fridge ice maker water line. The fridge is on the opposite wall of the sink. Can i run a water line under the floor to the sink, this would mean removing the home’s skirts and crawling under the floor to run it to the sink. My question is what is needed for this and what precautions do I need to take to make sure the line does not freeze in winter. I live in Maine so it can get very cold.

    • Hi Angelo,

      Yes, you absolutely can run your fridge water line under your cabinets. It’s pretty standard in all homes. Make sure you have it protected well (maybe strap it directly under the counter) and be cautious that its there (checking for leaks on occasion). Best of luck!

  23. I have a 2016 Atlantic doublewide without an ice maker line for a fridge. I am looking to purchase a new fridge with an ice maker line, problem is the fridge and sink are not on the same wall. Can I run an ice and water line under the floor to the sink, this would mean drilling a hole where the fridge will be and crawling under the floor on the slab to run the water line to the sink. Is this possible and what precautions do I need to take to make sure the line doesn’t freeze in the winter.

    • Hi Angelo,

      Absolutely, you can (and should) run the ice maker line under your cabinet. Use straps or J-hooks to attach it to the highest, out of the way, place you can. Best of luck!

  24. I have a mobile home that has some low pressure on the sinks, but shower and baths are OK. Also low pressure on the icemaker and dishwasher. I am at a loss.

  25. we get a musty/funky smell in our water (mostly hot water?), the worse early in the season or when the water is not used for a weeks at a time. Is this a hot water tank issue?why the smell?

  26. Hello. I am recovering from a disastrous water heater installation which flooded my 1976 Fuqua home requiring removal of floors and walls in several rooms. Here’s my question…after three months of dealing with terrible service, the restoration company left my outside water heater closet without the paneling that was originally there until I showed them a photo showing it was paneled before mitigation started. I finally got to them reinstall paneling, but they refused to insulate the walls inside it which are kitchen and laundry room walls. They said you don’t insulate those. However, the walls in these areas are nothing more than 1/8″ particle board and you could see daylight through the outlets when the paneling was down. We are talking paper thin walls that move when you push on them. I have convinced them to blow insulation in there now but they say I will need to heat that closet in winter to avoid freezing since the heat from the house will no longer be doing the job. I live in Bend, OR and it gets extremely cold here in the winter. We have a lot of snowbirds here so I can’t imagine that what they are saying is true since those folks leave their homes for months without heat on in the house. I just want to put this issue to rest and ran across your site. I have had two plumbers tell me there should be insulation in the walls to my mobile home especially due to it’s age. Who is right? THANK YOU!

    • Hi Kimberly,

      I know I’ve answered this comment before but my commenting system in on the fritz so I’m answering it again, sorry. You should have received an email with my first answer.I’m thinking you don’t want insulation on the interior walls of your water heater closet so that the heat from your home helps keep the closet warmer which makes the water heater work a little more efficiently.
      You definitely want insulation on the exterior wall though.

      Hope that helps!

  27. I have a 76 mobile home that we have a leaky faucet in the shower and possibly need to replace the actual valves to the sink and the shower. Can regular valves like from Lowes be used or do I need to get special mobile home valves?

    • Hi Karen,

      Absolutely! You may need to buy connectors to reduce or expand your original pipe in order to use your new faucet (they often include them in the box). I do recommend that buy a good quality name brand faucet (Kohler, Moen, American Standard, etc). Best of luck!

  28. I just moved in to a triple wide manufactured home. It has two water heaters, one in furnace area and one on the other end closer to the bathrooms. The toilets are connected to the hot water as are the outside sill cocks. Any suggestions?

    • Hi Neal,

      I know I’ve answered this comment before but my commenting system in on the fritz so I’m answering it again…your lines have been crossed somewhere under the home and it’s gonna be a heckuva chore to find where it occurred and then fix it. Unless you are really comfortable with plumbing you may want to hire a pro. They can probably spot the issue quickly and get the lines straightened out. You’ll def want to get it done as hot water used in toilets is going to waste a lot of electricity and wear and tear on your water heater.

      Best of luck!

  29. I have a 1988 Fleetwood single wide. A bottle of shampoo fell and broke the cold water knob off the faucet in the tub. The so-called “repairmen” I’ve had come to look at it want to cut a hole in the adjoining room to get access to the piping behind the tub surround. They won’t guarantee that they won’t damage the paneling and/or trim in the adjoining room. I have redone the walls with wallpaper and paint, which wallpaper I doubt is available anymore. Now I’ve replaced a tub surround before and I think all that needs done is to take the panel off where the faucet and shower head are over the tub to get to the piping. This might require cutting a portion of the surround, but it could be replaced and the seam covered with trim once the repair is made. These guys want a minimum of $500 to do this repair. Since I’m a senior citizen on a fixed income and have made many repairs to mobile homes and “regular” homes over the years, I see no reason to pay this amount of money for what should be a fairly easy repair, if you actually know what you’re doing. Does my method of replacing this faucet sound do-able or am I being unrealistic?

    • Hi Lindsey,

      You will want to let them cut the wall out from the backside. It’s going to be a lot easier to deal with because the surround on your tub is glued in and any kind of modification to it will likely cause a leak and you don’t want that. You can buy decorative panels to put over the opening but with the right technique, you would never know there was a panel cut out from the wall. I bet the plumber will know how to do it, too.

  30. I recently bought a mobile home up north.

    I have a small object under the bathroom sink which has a metal tube running into the drain pipe. The tube is about 1/4″ or 3/8″. There are three wires exiting the object, which are not attached to anything. Any ideas what this system is?

    This might help. There is an element which warms the cold water pipes to keep them from freezing.


    • Hi Richard,

      I want to say this is a remnant of a recirculation system maybe? I asked my husband and he didn’t really know either. Heat tape without the tape? I would remove it for sure though. Best of luck!

  31. I have a 4 inch pvc pipe that runs at a slope covered under earth from our 32×80. We have had an extreme amount of rain lately. Water is running at a pretty steady pace from the pipe. The problem is I have never noticed water coming out of this pipe before. Someone once told me If I see water coming out of there I have a real problem. Could it be the 4 inches of rain we have gotten or is there a problem
    Thanks Tim

    • Hi Timothy,

      Assuming this is your foundation drain, then yes, it’s fine and doing its job. If you are talking about a waste line then you have a serious issue.

  32. manufactured home,kitchen sink empties into a 4 inch drain pipe that goes all the way under the home to the septic ,on end of the 4 inch drain there is a clean out plug screwed into it. question is that plug removeable or do they glue them in upon install of home?

    • Hi Arthur,

      No, your cleanouts should never be glued. In fact, they are threaded so they can be easily removed to cleanout the pipe. Now, sometimes, the material warps in heat/cold a bit and tightens itself so much that you’d think it was glued.

  33. Hi! I have a 2002 double wide Palm Harbor. My washer, when on spin cycle, would back up my kitchen sink. I ran a 25′ snake thru the sink and cleared whatever was in there…sink is good now. However, I can’t run my washer due to the water backing up thru the outflow pipe. I have removed the “p” trap behind the panel at the washer and run a 25′ snake back towards the kitchen…. Still backing up the outflow pipe. Even ran a snake from the roof luck. I’m trying everything I can think of before cutting any pipe under the house. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.
    Also, how can I get my hands on any plumbing schematics?

    • Hi Kathy,

      These days, we use washing detergent that is too sudsy and our washer drains are too small so this cause all kinds of trouble. You probably have a clog in your drain line to the trunk. You need a plumber to go in and jet your pipe. You could do this yourself (you sound handy) but knowing where and how to place the jet (drain king if you do it yourself) is vital so you don’t blow out something somewhere else. Best of luck!

  34. Hello I have 88 single wide, leaking water under valves for washing machine, small hole in hose, I taped it but just made it stop spraying…, can these hoses be repaired or just replace?

    • Hi Rick,

      Those hoses are not very expensive so go ahead and replace it. There are some products that seal well but it’s not worth the time or the cost when the hoses are so affordable ($30 or so should get you a good one).


  35. I have a 1998 mobile home. my plumbing in the 2 bath no cold water anywhere so no water in toilet but if I take a hot shower then my toilet fills up with hot water. in my master shower I only have hot water also and in the sink. but the toilet works fine. kitchen sink both hot and cold works. Any ideas Thank you

    • Hi Tracy,
      Sounds like your cold water line is clogged somewhere. Look around your faucets, shut-offs and T’s. Best of luck!

  36. Hi, We are snow birds living in a 1973 double wide. The main bathroom has a raised tub I would like to replace with a shower. Are the pipes raised under the tub making a major replaced job or is the tub on a platform that will make it much easier to replace? Thanks.

    • Hi Marcia,

      That’s a question I can’t really answer without looking at it. Some manufactured home builders will raise the tub to gain proper grade. Those usually have a step that’s not part of the tub.

      Sorry I cant help more!

    • Hi Marcia,
      I’m doing a complete makeover in our master bath. Drain and supply lines were above the floor. The tub was already on a styrene platform so no issues since I was putting it back in place. I removed the fiberglass shower enclosure and I’m replacing it with a real tile shower. The shower drain and supply lines are above the floor. I rerouted the 1/2″ water lines into a wall but could not lower the drain lines. So the shower drain line and vent valve had to stay in place. I placed 2×4’s on the floor 8″ apart 2 high, screwed, glued and leveled to the original floor. That gave me the 3″ I needed to get above the drain line. Put a subfloor on top of the 2×4’s also screwing and gluing. Built the rest of the shower floor on top of that. The vent is in a corner so I’m building a corner seat to cover the 8″ sticking up and also extending the vent line into a adjoining linen closet in the bathroom.

  37. Hi Crystal: I have a 1989 mobile home and about a year ago I had my smaller bathroom redone, tub/shower, toilet and sink. Recently I started smelling something and had my UN-Licensed (my fault) installer come check it. He came out and said he found a leak in the shower water line in the wall (he had to cut an access area to get into the bathroom plumbing. After he didn’t come back out and fix it I called a plumber with 40 yrs experience. He fixed it and told me it was a rubber gromet/gasket that was missing. He said my original installer should have seen the leak from day one and never closed up the access panel. He believes my leak was from day one of the install. Could this likely be true?

    • Hi Mary,

      Yeah, it was probably leaking within days of the install. Lots of people forget the basics like gaskets and tape (or just don’t use them if they don’t have any handy). Also, sometimes the plumber will not buy all new guts for the shower to try to save money or time. Attaching new to old can be tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing (and don’t understand expansion and contraction).
      So sorry this happened to you.

      • Hi Rocky,

        A mobile home approved water heater (especially if it’s gas) is best. Otherwise, your insurance company can deny claims should any issues arise (even if it’s not related to the water heater).

  38. I have a 1963 10×50 Ranchero mobile home with copper water supply lines. The plumbing runs along the inside wall in a enclosed box. The hot water line has a leak which requires splicing in a a new piece. The problem I’m having is finding the right size of copper tubing. The leak was caused from line freezing and blowing out a old repair. The size must be between a 3/8 and 1/2. I have tried both sizes and its either too small or too large. Could it be that the whole pipe swelled from freezing? I’ve been told that these old mobile homes have odd size plumbing. I cut out a 6′ piece thinking that would eliminate a swell problem, but no luck. Do you know the proper size copper tubing for this mobile home? Thank you.

    • Hi Mark,

      So, you may want to look at your refrigerant/heating/air copper lines – those sizes are different from plumbing. Also, if they used rolled soft copper it will go into an egg shape and size weird. With those, you need to reftrofit and adapt. Also, look at the ID (inside diameter) and OD (outside diameter) – pipes are measured differently in some ways.

      Best of luck!

  39. I have a 1999 Champion Doublewide home. On one side is the laundry room and master bath. The water on side A operates normal, hot water runs hot water and cold water runs cold. Side B has the kitchen and the 2nd bath. On side B the hot water faucets run cold water and the cold water faucets run hot water (reversed), this would also include hot water flushing the toilet on Side B. How is the water connected under the home when it is set up. What is the easiest way to find where the water supply was hooked to side B. I am assuming that once I find where the supply lines were connected, I can reverse them and then side B will operate normal including the toilet and shower.

    • Hello,

      It sounds like you need to find where your lines tee off of the main water supply trunk (or line) under the house and reverse them. For the faucets, you can switch out the lines under the faucets. You’ll probably want to call a plumber for the toilet – they will be able to get those lines switched out pretty quickly.

      Best of luck!

  40. HI. Ok I’ll try to sum this up as quick as possible. I live in a mobile home. Nothing special or out of the ordinary. This summer a construction company was making a lagoon sewage pond thing. They were taking lots and lots of water truck loads of water from the fire hydrant located outside my home. I noticed the water would get very rusty and weak. At times, it would all up and stop working. When they finished the lagoon. My water pressure wasn’t normal. I’ve never had any issues with water pressure at all. We have city water hook-up. The strange thing is, after i cleaned the aerators out and bled the flex lines, the washer machine and bathroom pressures stayed insanely low. The toilet takes forever to fill back up, the cold water in the shower and washer machine barely work. When the washer machine is on the cold rinse cycle, I turn the tub cold and hot water on full and the pressure in my washer machine speeds up and it’s warm! Not cold. Like the hot water is having back-pressure or something. So that’s bacially it, in a nutshell. Oh yeah, the trailer does not have a pressure tank thing in it either….. I hope you have some tips or an answer. Thanks so much!

    • Hi Terrance,

      This is a mystery for sure but I think you have dirt clogging the screen for your pressure reducing valve coming from the main water line into the home. All that construction probably loosened up a lot of stuff in the lines. If that isn’t the case you may have to check all the screens for dirt on everything you own (washer, water heater, etc) (you may want to do that after you clean the pressure reducing valve anyway.

      Best of luck!

  41. I have a 1978 skyline 70×14. I’ve lost a bunch of water pressure and my meter is going nuts, so I shut the water off. What’s the best way to go about fixing it?

    • Hi Tyler,

      It sounds like you have a leak. Look in your yard and under your home for soggy soil or water. That’s where your leak will be.

      Best of luck!

  42. I’m in a Fleetwood doublewide, 25 years old. I have a shallow double aluminum ? sink in kitchen. I want to replace with a deeper, single sink. I need to know everything I will need to replace to do this. The drains are corroded and the pipes underneath would need to be for a single drain. I am pretty sure I have room for an 8″ deep sink – the pipes can be shortened, I am guessing? Any info, diagrams, wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I am so tired of wiping splashed water from these shallow basins. Thanks!!!!

    • Hi Brandi,

      You can Google sink and faucet replacements and find some great videos of the step-by-step process. They will give you a lot better info than I can just typing it out. The process for manufactured home replacements is similar to a site built home. I’d probably go ahead and replace the faucet while you’re doing the sink replacement. You’ll need to consider your counters (weight limitations and framing will be the two major issues to consider – mobile home sinks are usually low weight and are installed with clips).

      Best of luck!

  43. I have a new 16×80 getting a smell once and a while off the back deck nothing in the house and at the end of trailer .Do think my vents on the roof need to be higher they are only about 8 to 10 inches ???

  44. i have a 1993 double wide home and i have zero use for the toilet in on of the small bathrooms. So, I was wondering if there’s a way to get rid of the toilet and permanently seal of the toilet drain, so that i can get rid of the bathtub and put in a huge shower. if i were to leave the toilet in. I wouldn’t be able to put in a master shower.

    • Hi Katie,

      Absolutely! You’ll just remove the toilet and cap off the lines under the floor. You can usually patch the subfloor so you won’t have to replace a whole sheet. It’s a very common remodel.

  45. My question is I have a 2005 double wide… The floor in the spare bathroom is wet.. but no water line leak because floor drys. Check water meter water meter stay still.. I was thinking it was a drain.. I had taken out the vanity.. run a water hose down the drain.. turn the water on for an hour still no leaks… I climbed under the house look for water leak felt around nothing.. around toilet dry OSB was soaked now dry don’t understand..

    • Hi Edward,

      The first thing I would do is replace the wax ring on your toilet. It sounds like that could be it – it would only leak when flushed (or backed up if your trunk lines are a little off).

      If that isn’t it, it may be supply lines or drain to your new vanity. Test them under different scenarios (flush, use the tub, check the auto vent, etc).

      The tub could be seeping from the supply line or the drain, too. If your washing machine is close it could be back flow (the drain lines are usually too small to handle these fancy new washers).

      You have one of those problems where you just keep testing and trying different things. Let me know what it ends up being.

      Best of luck!

  46. I have a doublewide mobilehome. Under my guest restroom there is water pouring out anytime we flush or let water run down the pipes, i do not however see any poop or smell anything unusual there. The toliet in the guest bath water value is shut off because water was comi g out from under it when it was flushed. Can you please explain how to fix this and maybe why it contiunes to happen? I paid a plumber over $900 because he said it was the wax seals and he replaced those and also put in a vent pipe for the washer. I need to get this fix asap. The sinks do gurgle when flushing or if the tub is draining but there are vents under the two sinks. I am not sure what the issue is. Please if someone can explain how to fix this. The big black pipe still seems to be pushing stuff to the septic and nothing is washing back up the pipes i just have no clue. Thanks!

    • Hi Jamie,

      My first thought was the wax rings but if the plumber replaced them then it just about has to be a simple pipe disconnect probably right under the toilet. You replace wax seals from in the home so unless the plumber crawled under the home first he would have likely assumed it was the wax just as I did (wax seals go bad more often than pipes disconnect so can’t really blame him). The disconnect would cause an unbalance in your vent lines too.

      That would be my guess anyway. Best of luck! Let me know how it goes.

  47. I recently had my asphalt shingle roof replaced with a metal roof and I’ve noticed that the sewer vent stack(s) were not carried through the metal roof. Since the metal roof installation, I have an occasional sewer odor in the kitchen and always notice sewer odor on cold mornings outside my back deck. No sewer pipe leakage to be found and all plumbing seems to be working properly. My guess is that the sewer gases from the vents are being trapped between the home plywood roof and the metal roof and are entering either through a kitchen gravity vent or range exhaust hood that were also not brought through the metal roof. The contractor says he installed 100’s of metal roofs this way and has never encountered a problem. Your thoughts on this , please.

    • Hi Dan,

      I would contact the roof installers and make them open up the vent line (and add a wire netting over it to keep critters out). It sounds like you have it figured out. Roofers should know how important proper air flow is to a home’s ventilation lines.

      Best of luck!

    • It could be a couple of things: you may have a slow drain due to a slight blockage, you could need a larger pipe from the washer, or you could need better ventilation. A plumber could probably tell you immediately. Sorry I can’t be more precise!

  48. Hi Crystal, I have a question concerning plumbing in my mobile home. I cannot get my hot water to work out of the kitchen sink faucet. The hot water runs fine in all other faucets. I undid the line from the hot water handle on my faucet. I have no water running thru the main hot water line. I also undid the cold water line and I have water coming from the main line. That told me it was not the faucet. I climbed under the trailer to check for broken water lines or leaks and found nothing. I’m perplexed as what it could it be. I had the kitchen and faucet replaced 6 months ago. I do know the old version had a pressure relief valve sticking out the top of the sunk. The new one does not and the installer stated it was not needed. Do you have any idea of what my problem could be?

    • Hi Patrick,

      I’m no plumber (and I’m no longer married to one) but I’m thinking you have a blockage in the line from the water heater to the faucet. Water heaters catch a LOT of settlement from the main water lines and it can build up in the lines (especially around the connections). I would try to snake it out and make sure the connection at the water heater is clear.

      Best of luck!

  49. Hi Crystal,
    I’m so appreciative of this website that if you were here in person I’d hug you. Hard. I’m newly separated (after 27 years) and 62, and just purchased a 1991 14×70. It’s in great condition cosmetically, but I’m pretty sure there are a few hidden surprises.

    Do you have a regular blog that I can sign up for? I’ve searched high and low on many of the articles, but can’t find anything that would allow someone to enter an email address.
    If there isn’t a blog, I’ll settle for your gold mine of information, and just search for whatever I need.
    Thank you for sharing your knowledge! You’ve made an old woman a little more relaxed.

    • Hi Robynne,

      I have added your name to our email list (I took it off the sidebar with an intention of creating a new one but I forgot to do it – thanks for reminding me!) I do have a form that is supposed to popup but it doesn’t seem to work very often.

      You will need to confirm that you really want to receive emails from me so when you get an email pleases click the confirmation link and that will get you started.

      Thanks so much for your kind words! I bet your home is going to be gorgeous!

      (PS I’m newly divorced after 19 years. It’s a lot of change all at once but I think it’s for the best. I hope you will be able to say the same!)

      Best of luck!

  50. great information , need to know I am looking for a manufactured home and I like Karsten , but also skyline, but skyline has a lot of complaints , not as much as clayton , who I will not touch ,, any suggestions would be helpful

    • Hi John,

      All builders will have complaints and each area of the nation likely have different builders and, of course, dealers so that’s going to influence complaints and reviews. Do tons of research for your area, use some of the tips on here and you should be able to get the house you want at a fair price. Best of luck!

  51. How does the mobile home plumbing code differ from any other when it comes to replacing the water heater? I know I need a special water heater (around 500 bucks) but can I pipe it just like a normal water heater with copper pipes attached to the Pex pipes?

    • Mark,

      Mobile home water heaters meet HUD code. When we replaced our water heater we went to Lowe’s and bought one but I suspect some states like California have a much stricter code. (Thanks Lee for the info!) You will need to choose between low boys and high boys and electric or gas. You’re looking at $300 max. Your codes will vary by state and county but there’s not a whole lot of variance from site-built homes. PEX is used often with shark bites and standard transitions from copper.

      Best of luck!

      • HUD requires that a water heater be certified for mobile home use.

        And there seem to be 2 types (for gas), direct vented and one in which DV is not required.

        The DV type prevents indoor air from mixing with combustion air. Air gets sucked in from the top or bottom and escapes through a roof jack.

        The other kind (for gas) is less expensive, and is allowed only in mobile homes that have a special access door from the outside to the water heater compartment.

        But both (plus the electric kind) have this odd side inlet for the cold water, and I’m still trying to figure out why it can’t be piped into the top, as it is in houses. Maybe it has to do with the water coming up through the floor, but I don’t see the big deal in having another 4 feet of plumbing which would obviate the need for a special type of more expensive water heater, apart from the venting, which I would think could just be added onto a standard unit.

      • Thanks for the info. HUD regulations are, in all reality, absolute minimum safety standards which is why state and county code always trumps it. I do need to research and make sure that’s the case in all states though (I know we can use water heaters from Lowe’s in WV).

        Unfortunately, the master plumber and I are now divorced so I can no longer get his advice. I did Google search a bit and came up with the following links which may help answer your question:

        Thanks so much for the info. I’ll clarify my answer in the above comment.

      • I just met with a plummer about my mobile home water heater. I’m not certain if there is, or isn’t, a “special mobile home water heater,” but I do know that mine is “for use only in mobile homes,” according to the owner’s manual (Kenmore model #153.333850). The plummer told me to NOT have a handyman drain the sediment out because it is a lot more involved process, requiring disconnecting a few things before draining. He also said that they are not the same as in regular houses.

  52. Hi Bill!

    If I had to guess, I’d say you have a blockage in your shower body valve (the guts behind the wall). Your line goes from say 1/2″ to 3/8″ or 1/4″ in there and that narrowing gets clogged with sediment.

    You can usually access the body valve via a bedroom closet through the opposite side of the wall (there’s usually a panel). Take the new shower heads off and blow it out. That should help!

    Best of luck!

  53. I have a 1989 Marshfield home single wide, I trying to put a shutout valve in my cold water line but it does,not come up by the hot water tank. The main cold water line does not come up throw the at all. One line straight to the hot water tank,No splits when the line goes straight to the hot water tank. So the main cold water is underneath the floor, The ownly way is to cut into the floor to put a main water value inside the home.

    • Hi Kim,

      In this case I would probably just make sure I had easy access to a main shut off valve under the home (before the water enters the home). Along with a ‘key’ to shut off the city water and a whole home shut-off valve you should be fairly well protected. Lots of homes already have a main valve shut-off and it’s usually located close to or with the water hose connection. As long as you can get to that main valve to shut off all water you should be OK (make sure there’s access to the valve in the skirting – a door or a panel works well).

      Best of luck!

  54. I had a plumber come by and install a new waterline for my icemaker. I now have no water to my outside lines, front and side of the unit. Where can I find the outside water supply valve?

    • Hi Andre,

      How odd! Your outside water valve is likely really close to the water heater, usually around your back door. Best of luck!

      • Hi Kevin,

        Look around your back door or where your water heater/utility/laundry room is located. It’s usually about 6-12″ back from the edge. Best of luck!

  55. This is a great article that helped me understand better how my piping works, but I have more specific questions that I cannot find the answer to anywhere.

    The previous owner of my home made some of the plumbing a little wonky and there are two vent pipes (I assume) going to the roof in the bathroom. Both are 1-1/2″.

    Are both required? Is it dependent on how he did all the plumbing underneath (he replaced the ancient metal pipes with plastic). Would any harm come from relocating one, that is really my problem one as it’s done in a way that prevents a large chunk of the bathroom from being used for anything but pipe-space. And can this pipe, and others, be inside a wall?

    I cannot afford a plumber, so I’m trying to learn what I can, but the internet is surprisingly sparse on mobile/manufacture home literature.

    • Hi Dan!

      Yes, the vent pipes are 100% dependent on the layout of the drainage/waste pipe under the home. The previous owners probably capped off some old pipe or rerouted pipe and maybe couldn’t reach the original or had a clog/issue in it… but that kinda perplexes me because opening up the roofing and ceiling seems to be a lot more trouble than reaching the original vent or repairing whatever issue it may have had. I’m not a fan of making holes if it’s not 100% necessary, especially in the roof. If the original vent isn’t being used at all it’s probably a good idea to cap it off and seal it up completely so no leaking can occur.

      You can use in the wall auto vents in a lot of situations. Take a look at this article:

      If you have any more questions just reply or create a new comment. I try to check them at least 1-2 times a week. Thanks so much and best of luck to you!

  56. Just came across this awesome website! We just replaced a broken pipe between our well house and our home. We came inside and took the screens off of the faucets to clear the lines. Cold water throughout the house has really low pressure and one of our toilets won’t fill. Hot water throughout is good and the other toilet in house (farthest from the repair and where the water comes into the home) is good. Is this something we can track down and fix or is it time for a professional?

    • Hi Heather,

      You probably have a clog at the tee on the cold line at your water heater. It’s likely clogged after it feeds cold water to the water heater, that’s why you have hot water pressure but not cold. It’s probably gunk in the lines where you hooked to the old line in ground, happens all the time.

      Best of luck!

  57. This probably seems obvious to others, but not to me. To replace plumbing (water lines), do you access the lines by opening up your flooring or opening up the belly? It seems like I’d be disturbing too much on the underside if I went up through the belly, but don’t relish the thought of going through flooring. I watched a YouTube video of a man demonstrating Pex replacement in a mobile home. He opened up the flooring but doesn’t explain much — not even demonstrating how to use the crimper. (I already know how to do Pex, familiar with the tools, etc. I’m a landlord and have done it on one of my rentals. EASY & FUN!)

    If I open up the flooring, is it easy enough just to open a small area and ‘fish’ the new Pex to any other area in the home where I make another small opening to grab the Pex through?

    I’m working on a 1967 Ritz-Craft, 500+ sq. ft. home. It’s in a 55-and-over community, beautiful, small, quiet, country park, and will be my retirement home. It has copper pipes now. (And, copper wiring — happy about that!) How can I actually tell where the original pipes run without ripping up the whole flooring or belly? Did/do all manufacturers follow a rule of thumb and run them beside the heating ducts/vents?

    (Should I just do a copper to Pex transition to my new kitchen and to the relocation of my hot water tank and forget about a full re-plumbing job?)

    To give you more information, my home is 2-bedroom. The kitchen was all the way to the front (along with the hot water heater) and open to the living room. I’m centralizing the kitchen (basically where the second bedroom is now) and turning the existing kitchen into the second bedroom. So, all my plumbing, including my hot water heater will be more practically located. The heater will be re-located to a closet in the master bedroom, which is next to the bath, which will be next to my new kitchen (where the small, second bedroom is now).

    Thanks for your help! Glad I found this site.

    • HI Sherrie!

      First, keep in mind that you will never be able to repipe your home exactly how it was from the factory – they ran the pipe before the flooring and walls were installed and may have placed the pipes in the middle (usually) or on one side or the other, depending on the layout.

      Your best bet when doing a complete repipe with PEX, is to just cap off the old water lines at the floor of each fixture and run new PEX.

      If you have no flooring and easy access, perhaps pulling your subfloor up will be easier but in most cases I think working from underneath is less hassle. If you can cut/cap off the old pipe under the floor and use the same hole in the floor for the new pipe that’s great, if not, no big deal.

      You can drill a hole in the floor and punch the PEX through the insulation and belly wrap (just so you can find it). Once you’ve found all your PEX under the house, run your trunk line (preferably under the insulation and over the plastic belly wrap). You can tape the belly wrap back together with belly wrap tape. You’ll use the access panels to reach the ‘guts’ to the showers (if you don’t have one you’ll need to make one on the back side of the shower).

      By running all new pipe and capping off all the old at each fixture, you won’t need to worry about where the old pipe is. By leaving the old pipe in place and capping it off at each fixture you will be saving time (especially important if paying a plumber by the hour) and dump fees. You won’t be fighting with running the new pipe through the drilled holes, etc. It’s just an overall less-stressful way to re-pipe a mobile home. I can only think of a couple of scenarios where removing the old pipe and running the new through the exact route is beneficial or worth all the extra effort.

      Your new trunk line could be ran down the middle of the home or on one side depending on your layout and where your water heater is. Just figure out a route that uses the least amount of pipe (and cuts/transitions) to reach all your fixtures. You’ll want your pipe to be as close to the venting as possible if you deal with cold winters (not a big deal if you are in CA, FL, etc).

      I like to recommend re-piping the whole house if you’re having a lot of leaks or if your home is very vintage and original. Might as well do it all if you’re already down there!

      Hope that helps. If you have any more questions just reply! Best of luck!

      • I do live in the north (Ohio).

        This is the way I’m picturing what you’re saying for the new Pex — order from ground up: Belly wrap, trunk line, insulation, sub-floor/flooring. Branch lines go straight through floor from fixtures (if not using old holes), through insulation (no fishing), connected to trunk line — all as close to venting (ducts) as possible. (Thus, I’ll have a continuous slit in the belly wrap several feet long — following the trunk line and connections — to seal with belly tape.)

        Much less complicated and much less work than I was anticipating.

        Another question. It’s been almost 20 years since I lived in a mobile home, so forgive my lack of memory . . . the heat tape then wraps as much of the trunk as possible to keep it from freezing, right? In other words, should the tape go as far on the trunk as my farthest branch connection? Or do I create a fire hazard since it would all be — or a big part of it — inside the belly? (From what I understand through other internet reading, the installed heat tape and pipe gets wrapped with insulation.) (Until I started reading about heat tape installation, I didn’t even realize there are tapes especially for plastic pipe.)

        The heat tape is gone, so I have no clue to follow. The lady who owned my trailer is in a nursing home now (never got to speak with her) and the relatives winterized it. I believe they removed the heat tape while doing so.

        P.S. All my site-built homes have had basements and easy access to plumbing. That’s why I’m making sure I understand you correctly. I never had to work on the one-and-only other mobile home I lived in other than to replace heat tape. Even at that, I just followed where the old one had been installed. I don’t remember it going any farther than where the pipe entered the belly.

      • Hi Sherrie,

        Sounds like you have it! With PEX sticks you should be able to cut a small slit just at the connections so you won’t have so much belly wrap to tape back up. If you use PEX rolls, you can thread it through but lay the pipe out a couple of days before the project to get some of the curl out of it. Threading it with a long stick helps a lot. At all your fixtures stick the pipe down through the floor first and then go under the home.

        Your skirting and pipe insulation is going to be your biggest protection against freezing. In WV, we only add tape to the pipe in the area between the ground and the inlet. I will not use insulation sleeves over tape (and I’m not sure it’s advisable in a lot of cases). An insulated box built around the pipe from ground to belly is a good idea too.

        Best of luck!

  58. 1976 2 bdr 2 bath galvanized pipes country many rodents. No cold water in K. BTHR rust color and sediment.
    Don’t trust replacing with PEX.
    Typical cost expectation?
    How about CPVC?

    • Hi Charlene,

      Is there a particular reason you don’t trust PEX? It’s a great product, especially compared to the other options. As long as the fittings are done right you just about can’t beat it.

      The sediment is probably clogging up your lines as well as your water heater. Before replacing all the lines you’ll want to get the sediment and rust issue taken care of first. Water filtration systems come in all shapes and sizes and can cost quite a bit. I’ve seen some companies rent the systems out and change the filters out each month for around $30 a month (in WV, not sure about upfront costs).

      Just guessing, I’d say running new water lines will cost at least $1000 (that’s for a roll of PEX and fittings, plus labor – this is without removing the old lines, just running new PEX – removing will likely require more man hours and disposal fees – I don’t recall the prices on other pipes cause PEX is the most popular). Water heaters are around $250. Water filtration systems depend on many factors but I’m guessing $500 +.

      Sorry I can’t be more help. I do hope you’ll reconsider PEX – it really is one of the best inventions in modern plumbing and I am not paid at all to say that.

  59. My boyfriend and I are trying to install a bathtub in the master bath there was only a plastic shower enclosure which was very small…. We purchased a tub and the drain kit when trying to install the drain extends below the foam attached on the under side of tub, we are at a loss as how to fix the problem other than cutting the plywood floor out and then back fill with foam.? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

    • Hi Debbie,

      If I’m understanding right (the drain line is extending from the bottom of the floor) you may need to raise the tub on a platform. I’ve seen this done in several homes so that the proper slope can be achieved for the draining of tubs and toilets.

      If you want to send photos I can have my husband take a look (master plumber). My email is

      Best of luck!

  60. HI MY NAME IS Jennifer and all the sudden i heard water running and it looks like the PVC pipe from the water heater to the main drain outside broke….how do i go about fixing that.

    • Hi Jennifer!

      Cut your main water supply off and go to the breaker box and cut electricity off to your water heater (if it’s electric, if it’s propane use the main shut off valve for the propane) first. Turn the gate valve or main valve off on the water heater so that the you don’t get sprayed with hot water.

      If it’s leaking from your pressure/thermal expansion valve you will have to find out why there is too much pressure before you do anything. Look to see if your pressure reducing valve failed. ve

      Here is the best resource I’ve found to explain how to replace a drain valve and more information on the pressure expansion valve:

      YouTube video

      YouTube video

      Best of luck!

  61. Hi, I’m removing all old water lines and putting in new.

    What is currently there is a complete cluster crap. I read in your article of placement of wires and lines and for the life of me I must be over looking because I can not find it.

    It’s a mobile home and I don’t know if I should plumb under insulation near the ground or on top in between the insulation and floor.



  62. Hi, I am having a leak in my mobile home. It is under the fridge which is next to our laundry room. We had someone check the fridge but nothing is wrong, so we had him look at the washer and same thing. I turned of the valves in the laundry room but there is still a leak. Do you have maybe an idea where the leak is coming from.

    • Hi Isabel,

      Have someone take a look at your ice maker. They are sneaky little things and the hoses are easily damaged. If that’s not the problem look in the wall for the washer connection (there’s usually a pipe in the wall that reaches up to the washer hose connection). I’m guessing it’s going to be one of those.

      Definitely get it figured out even if you have to start tearing down walls. You don’t want the water damaging your flooring.

      Best of luck!

    • I just had this issue. I have a Samsung fridge, and under the crisper drawer it was full of water & slowly dripping down the side and under fridge but from the inside. It was the evaporator coil in back of fridge. It seems to be very common with this brand. Try searching your fridge model see if people have same issue of leaks.

  63. I’ve been reading and watching you help people with their plumbing problems, so here you go with my plumbing problem. I have a 1997 Double Wide and the shower drain pan was leaking under the house. So bought the same exact parts and installed it with the rubber gasket under the shower pan and tightened the nut and then had my wife install the drain with the putty and then tighten the drain into pipe that goes into the trap until it was tight. When my wife turned the water on it leaked under the shower pan again….what did I do wrong?.

    • Hi Michael!

      Without seeing exactly what type of drain we suspect that the putty may have failed. We only use 100% silicone in between the flange and the pan – as the putty has a tendency to strip off and leave a gap when tightening it.

      PS My husband is the licensed master plumber, I’m just the assistant but we’re very happy we can help people! If the silicone doesn’t work please email a picture or 2 of the drain/setup and we should be able to give you more detailed help. My email is

      Thank you! Best of luck!

    • Hi Janie,

      It could be anything! Here’s some things you can do:

      – Make sure the toilet is working properly – lift the lid and make sure the tank has sufficient water (you may want to replace the ‘guts’ of your toilet)
      – Snake the drain to remove any blockages
      – Make sure your drain pipes are not in a bind and are in an appropriate slope to the main trunk line
      – Make sure there is sufficient ventilation for that drain line

      Best of luck!

  64. Hi my name is Angela I have a 1999 Astro mobile home the sewer pipe under the trailer is plugged how do I fix this. I live in Maine also PLEASE HELP THANKS????

    • Hi Angela!

      Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and buy a plumber’s snake. They aren’t perfect but they will get small blockages cleared. You’ll push the wire down your pipe (via the toilet), until it reaches the blockage. Work the snake until the clog clears. If that doesn’t work or your blockage is to far you’ll like need to call plumber with construction grade snake (they have motors and spray high pressure water that will unclog just about anything!).

      Best of luck!

  65. I live in a 1987 mobile home. When the washer drains water will back up into the kitchen sink and the fumes are horrible. Sometimes the water even overflows from the drain onto the laundry room floor. I see no vent stack thru the roof nor do I see any under sink venting devices. I am somewhat handy with home repairs and my neighbor works for a home re-modeler and will help with anything I need. What do you suggest to correct this problem?

    • Hi Larry!

      You are experiencing a very common issue in manufactured homes. It’s kind of a double whammy of not enough (or failed) ventilation and possibly too small of a drain line from the washer.

      First, try adding a Studor auto vent under the kitchen sink. That should help the smell. Studor is the best name brand and well worth spending the extra $15 over the other auto vents.

      If your washer drain line is only an inch and a half pipe you may want to consider re-piping it with a two inch pipe. While doing that, tie it in under the house directly to the main drain/trunk line itself, separate from the kitchen drain. That will definitely fix your problem! Those 1.5″ pipes just aren’t meant to handle a lot of water, especially high pressure water being released from a newer washer.

      Try the auto vent first, especially if there is no stack connected to the immediate system (though there could be one in the walls that has failed – the cheaper vents seem to fail after only a few years).

      Best of luck! Let me know how it works!

  66. I have a 1980 Celtic. The problem I am having is with slow drainage of the drain pipes from the kitchen and the laundry. The kitchen sink has a pipe that eventually hooks up with the pipe from the washer and utility sink in the shed. These are on the east side of the house, and the outflow point is on the west corner.

    Whenever the washer empties, we hear water bubbling in the kitchen sink trap. When things get really slow, water from the washer backs up a bit into the utility sink next to the washer, and, when the dishwasher empties, water will rise into the sink. That’s when we know it’s time to get the pipes snaked.

    I have had more than one plumbing company try to figure this out. They say it is not the vent pipes. The most they seem to come up with is that the pipes are so flat by the time they reach the outflow that they drain slowly, and then get layered deposits inside. Whenever a big rush of water enters from the east side, the system is slow to react, which is why we hear the bubbling when the washer empties.

    We don’t use the sink disposal for solid foods–nothing like that. We do laundry at least once a week.

    The suggestion is that we pour boiling water down the drains once a month. We try to keep up with this, but it seems like the water is cool anyway by the time it crosses from east to west.

    By the way, we live in Florida, so freezing isn’t an issue.

    Any thoughts? I’ve paid hundreds of dollars to try to get this resolved.

    • Hi Jody!

      Your issue has all the signs of a ventilation issue but if a plumber determined that it wasn’t a ventilation issue then my second guess (other than a blockage or just improper drain line installation where the drain pipe is installed at a improper angle or with a kink ) is going to be that your drain pipes are simply too small to handle the load from the machine. Going up to a larger pipe size could help. This is especially a problem with drain lines when it comes to modern washing machines and dishwashers.

      I still can’t help but think it’s a ventilation issue. If you can figure out where your washing machine drain line connects to your other drain lines (kitchen or bathroom) and add an under the sink vent to that area it may help a bit. if that doesn’t work replaceing the drain line from the washing machine to the main trunk should do the trick (assuming no blockages or improper installation).

      Best of luck!

      • I work as a plumber for mobile home manufacturing co. there should be what is called an “in wall’ vent.these vents are typically plumbed into the main washer drain. they are the same thing as an under sink drain. they operate like a “check valve”they are known to quit working. problem is,,,,,,they are inside the wall. so it would take someone wiyh a few carpentry skills to get to it,replace it,repair wall.

      • Hi Aaron,

        You’re right! I know them as inline vents and they can be placed in a wall or under a sink. If you have gurgling or slow drainage you can usually add a vent under a faucet stack to bypass having to cut into a wall. As long as the vent is allowed to suck air in (but not out) it will work – I never much cared for them being placed inside walls.

        Thanks so much for reading MHL – I appreciate your comment!

  67. I have a 1981 Hallmark 2 bedroom trailer. Our bathroom and kitchen sink won’t drain. The tub and toilet are fine. I’ve taken apart the plumbing under the sinks, and ran a snake as far as i could, and still nothing. I’ve crawled all over under the trailer, and the only lines i see coming down and connecting to the waste/septic is for the washer (also fine). The trailer is insulated very well underneath, and i’ve cut a couple spots looking for pipes under the sinks but for the life of me I can’t find anything lol. I’ve even googled various phrases relating to the plumbing plan, to no avail. Any ideas?

    • Hi Arthur,

      Its most likely a blockage or a ventilation issue. Try a true professional plumber’s snake (those they sell at Lowe’s or Home Depot are not that great and are mostly for sinks, not drainage line blockages. You should be able to rent one. Poor ventilation could be air locking the system as well. Those are the most likely issues.

      Hope you figure it out. Best of luck!

  68. I am working on a double wide for my daughter. There seams to be no water on the “A” side but there is water to the small bathe on the “B” side of the trailer. So I know what I am looking for when I go under the trailer, doe s the water come in from the riser then T and then have separate supply runs to each side of the house? Oh sorry I guess there is water to the laundry area also. Nothing to the kitchen or the main bathe. We just got this house and are fixing it up, utilites have been off for about 6 months. Just got power and gas turned on.

    Thank you

    • Hi Eric!

      In most manufactured homes the main water line from the meter goes into one connection under the home and straight toward the water heater. From the heater it will branch out. With double wides, it will not have separate entries for each side – It will be a single closed system for everything.

      It sounds like you have a simple blockage, especially since it’s affecting the an entire side or area of the home. You’ll probably see the problem quickly once you get under the house. If you don’t see anything obvious, you may want to test the lines pressure with a gauge at each connection or junction. Sometimes, it’s easier to run a new line of PEX than it is to try to find an seemingly invisible issue and repair it, especially with PEX being so affordable and easy to install (use the Sharkbite fittings and you won’t even need a special tool). PEX plays well with others…lol

      PS Make sure the previous owners didn’t disconnect that area of the home (they get a leak and just cap off the line until they can get it fixed) or if the lines froze and busted.

      Let me know how it goes! Best of luck!

      • Hi Tamalea,

        It can cause issues if you have completely sealed off your ‘attic’ area (roofing) or under the home (skirting). Both areas need air inlets and outlets to breath and remove condensation.

        If you are experiencing wet spots on your ceilings or top of your walls and have deduced that there are no leaks in the roof then condensation is likely the problem. Mold or mildew issues along your home’s sub-flooring can be caused by a lack of ventilation under the home or perhaps the belly wrap (the plastic under your home) is damaged or has open holes.

  69. Hi, very informative website.

    I live in a 1996 double wide. I removed the garden tub from the master bath and for now I would like to make the area where the garden tub used to live into a ‘dressing area’. I plant to cap off the plumbing and drain line and leave them under the floor in case I decide to put in a tub or larger shower later. There was also a vent pipe in the garden tub area and I’m not sure how to handle it. Will it be okay to take the pipe down to underneath the floor or will messing with it upset the venting system in the bathroom? I’m a DIY’er so I’m not afraid to tackle this but I want to be sure to do it the proper way. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    • Hi Donna!

      Typically, each vent stack is tied in with the sinks and toilets closest to the vent to create a complete system so you’ll probably want to leave that alone. Capping it off will cause lots of issues. Good call on researching before you did anything – you’re doing DIY right!

      Best of luck!

      • Thank you so much for responding, but now I’m a little confused because there appears to be a vent pipe under the sink also. Since the pipe in question comes up from the floor where the garden tub was, I just assumed the vent stack was housed over by the shower since it is on the outside wall and the sink, shower and garden tub each have their own vent pipe. Is that a possibility. The reason I’m asking is the vent pipe where the garden tub was sticks up approximately 6 inches from the floor and 2 to 3 feet from the inside wall so it makes it a little difficult to work around. Would it be a good idea to question a plumber about how I can handle this issue? Thanks so much.

      • Hi Donna!

        Ventilation is the most complex aspect of plumbing so it is good idea to have someone look at it if at all possible. Depending on how your house is plumbed, there could be a vent for each thing or a vent that ties a couple of them together. It all depends on the plumber and the codes for your area.

        You have a few options to work with in situations like yours – there are two different types of vents available, dry vents and wet vents. A wet vent is when a single vent is used as a drain for one thing and a vent for another (say a drain for the sink and a vent for the tub). You can always reroute the vents, you just have to be sure everything has a vent. There are vents you can buy that are placed under your sink, they don’t require a roof pipe at all, and still help with odor and ventilation in the systems. Each part of the country has their own codes though so you’ll want to research for your area.

        Here’s a link to an auto/sink vent that may help you get rid of the vent stack completely (assuming the vent for the garden tub is tied into the sink):

        Best of luck! Hope that helps – I’m not very good at explaining things like this…

  70. Hi! Great website.
    We noticed a leak outside and plumber said it is caused by the a.c. Line. He said before he fixes it he wants a restoration company to prep the ground to avoid health issues. He quoted his part at $1700 and the restoration guy quoted $3000. This seems really high for a leak. I have a call in to my insurer. I’m fairly certain they won’t cover it but I’m hoping they can give me direction on how to handle the problem. I have also noticed strange smells and gurgling and banging sounds which I had assumed were coming from the water heater. We were going to replace the water heater with a tankless but now that this issue has come up its on the back burner for now. We live in Southern California and it has been crazy hot so the a.c. Has been on almost non stop. My husband feels it could be condensation. Do you have any ideas on how to go about this?

    Thank you!

    • Hi Eva!

      Unless CA has some weird environmental laws, I have no idea what a plumber would mean by needing a restoration guy to ‘prep the ground’ for health issues. That sounds suspect to me. In WV all we usually do is dig ditches and holes to the ground…lol. I’d probably call someone else and see what they say.

      A simple ‘leak’ in your AC is probably just condensation needing a better route/place to go (though I’m not familiar with AC’s- that’s just my best guess). If you can, email me a bit more info with exactly what needs to be restored and what health issues they may be referring to (I figure mold but if it’s not on any structure it should be easy enough to remedy). My email is I’ll help as much as can.

      Best of luck!

  71. HELLO Crystal,
    Have a 1984 Titan Double wide. Were on a well system in the county. I have good hot water pressure thought out my home. Poor to none cold water to the wash machine, both toilets don’t fill up, tub and showers poor to no cold water, sinks have good hot water but poor cold water pressure. Its seems like a clogged pipes? Can I just by pass what I have and run new pipes inside the house. Along the ceiling and cover it with crown molding? Any suggestions or advise to help me. Also do I have to place filter system to pipes to catch any deposits. Thank you

    • Hi Chickie,

      You can but I wouldn’t advise putting it along the ceiling. Running it under your home along the vents is preferable, you’d just stub at each point of use (sink, tub, toilets). This removes the possibility of leaks ruining wood and allows the vents to keep the lines from freezing.

      Good luck!

      • I would also like to know why you wouldn’t suggest running new lines along the ceiling? I have been pulling out my hair for over 5 years now! Every winter I get under my trailer and fix broken pipes like 5 or 6 times until I can’t take it anymore- it will wait till spring! I can’t go without water any more! My plan is to get rid of the cpvc pipes and go to pex. My thoughts are to run the pex mainly along the ceiling ( since heat rises- plus it would be the easiest way to run it) and box it in up there so it looks nicer. My other thought was running it under the trailer somewhat on the ground so that I wouldn’t have to worry about how I was going to attach it to the bottom of the trailer. Every time I went under there when fixing broken pipes I exposed more insulation so it’s hangin all over under there! Soooo.. I figgered my 2nd plan would be go with pex and put each line in piping insulation, and then wrap both in wall / floor insulation together- thinking that that would be good even if it was on the ground, if it had all that insulation.
        One of my other problems is that I don’t have a furnace, so there are no vents to help from freezing. Trailer was designed with just electric baseboard heat. Soo please reply asap as I ned to do this within the next day or two. Thank you!

      • Hi Jeannie,

        Running water lines through your ceiling or on top of your walls just pose a huge leak hazard. A single leak will likely cost hundreds, if not thousands, in damages to your walls, insulation, carpet, ceiling, etc.

        The ideal placement would be under the home, right beside your vents. However, since you don’t have vents your plumbing system would need to mimic a site-built home’s system (they typically don’t have venting ran under the home in a straight line like a manufactured home). Your skirting would need to be tight (with proper airflow), your lines need to be wrapped very well (with heat tape installed anywhere there is visible pipe), the lines need to be placed as close to the flooring as possible, and you will want to add insulation under the line and get a new belly wrap installed. Boxing the pipe in is another good way to keep them from freezing. It creates a smaller pocket of air and can be stuffed with insulation. Another step would be to add plastic sheeting on the ground under the home too. There’s a lot to it but each thing adds another layer of protection against freezing and it will all work together for stress-free winters. Oh, and attaching PEX under your home is very simple with J-hooks (50 of them run a couple dollars – you nail the hooks into the wood and then thread the PEX through the J part. It’s actually kinda fun to

        If it were me, I would do whatever was necessary to have the lines ran in the center under the home. If that’s not possible though, I would try to run them inside, on the bottom of the walls,boxed in like you mentioned. This will help keeps water and electricity from mixing and reduce the possibility of damaging the walls, ceiling, etc. should there be a leak. You may need to move your baseboard heating around though.

        It sounds like you have a sound plan. You probably have the grey pipe which has swelled and caused small hairline fractures so every time it freezes the line expands and you get leaks, especially at the connections and stress points.

        PS You do not want water lines ran on the ground at all.

        Best of luck to you. If you run into any issues just email at and I’ll be happy to help.

        Good luck!

  72. does anyone know a solution for why hot water would come out of the cold water in all sinks, showers, washing machine and toilets. I’ve drained the water heater twice with it off and had the pump unplugged without turning the water heater on. I plugged the pump back in. I had cold water for about 20 minutes then it came out steaming hot, still with the water heater turned off.

    Water heater does not have a check valve on it and I do not have any single lever faucets. For some crazy reason seems to possibly be coming into the house from the pump already hot.

  73. Hi Crystal,

    We are doing a major remodel on our master bath in out 1988 Fleetwood d/w mobile home. It has the grey pipes you are discussing in this article. The contractor did not think they needed replacing and they are close to closing the wall back up. Do we need to replace the pipes now?? Thanks so much!!

    • Hi Jan,

      If your plumber says they are fine I wouldn’t worry about it. Those pipe are still in use today in many homes, as long as you aren’t seeing any weaknesses in the couplings/joints you should be fine – that’s where the problems are and thankfully with manufactured homes there aren’t quite as many joints as in a site-built home.

      Thanks so much! Best of luck!

  74. Hi Crystal,

    I have been reading your site and it’s very informative. You help so many people. We live in a Manufactured home, been living here 23 years. Our Kitchen sink quit draining we had a plumber come out and snake. Nothing worked. My husband bought a 50 ft power snake and tried it also. Did not work. He took the pipes apart under the sink and replaced them still nothing. We also went to Lowes and purchase pretty expensive drain cleaner, still nothing. Please help.

    • Hello! You should have a shut off valve somewhere under your home directly under the exterior wall (so you don’t have to crawl under the home). Usually, it’s around the water hose connection (where you screw the water hose in) and close to wherever your water heater is in the home. Look around your back door. If you have skirting you’ll likely have a door or small opening so that you can reach it.

      Good luck!

  75. Hi, very helpful advice. I have a 92 Horton and a terrible smell coming from tub drain. Started when we fixed the leaky faucet(replaced), so I figured that the drizzling water was keeping a leaky trap full and keeping smell out. My son looked underneath bathroom and said there’s no water dripping, and trap pipe looks good but a vent attached to it was mangled looking. It’s very hard to get to and he has back issues, so I’m calling a plumber I guess since I’m not SURE the vent thing is the problem..what do you think? (The smell is definitely coming from tub drain and yesterday I saw tiny flies in tub! Poured Clorox in and am keeping the water dripping til I can get a plumber in) Thanks

  76. Hi! My Fiancé and I are remodeling a 1970’s Fleetwood single wide and we want to have a shutoff valve under the kitchen sink, as there isn’t one now. The water lines in place are thin tubing. Any suggestions on how to make a shutoff and protect my new cabinets? Any help is greatly appreciated.

    • Hi Monica!v

      Typically, you’ll just cut the hose in half and insert the shut-off valve directly into the line using the proper sized fittings and couplings on each side and then attaching them to the new valve. Worse case scenario is that you will need to replace the supply line – if you have PEX, you’ll have no problem. Let me know if you get stuck! Good Luck!

      Here’s a website that explains it in detail:

  77. My wife and I own a Solitaire Megawide (18 X 76) on 10.5 acres. We’ve decided that we want to re-route the gray water to use for watering our garden and lawn and to take some stress off our septic system. All the plumbing is under the house covered by the underbelly fabric. I’ve done some plumbing stuff — running plumbing to an outside barn and a lot of repairs. I laid the water line from our well to the house. I once replaced the main sewer line in a previous home. I’m pretty sure that I can handle this job, but I’m a little skiddish about cutting into that fabric underneath the house to see just what I’m up against. Basically, I don’t want to make a mess of things. Any suggestions? Are there any publications that you would recommend?

    • Hi Bill! You are right to be a bit worried about cutting the belly wrap – it is very important! Luckily, you can buy wrap repair tape to fix any cuts that you need to make (warning: it’s a pain in the neck but it’s necessary so make the smallest cuts you can and have a helper ready to help you when the time comes to repair it). You may also be able to remove the staples used to attach the plastic to the perimeter of the home though that is a lot of work.

      As long as you tape the cuts and keep the plastic taught against the home’s bottom you should be OK.

      Good Luck!

  78. Hi,
    We have a big dilemma. Our manufactured home is 86 home. We had so many water leaks over the years . Which 85% time it enquired crawling under house to fix. All floors have been replaced over time from damage. We live in Illinois and it can get extremely cold and have had a few winters with busted Hot water heater and pipes. We now had our house , all new PEX with crimped fittings. We were under the impression plumber was going to put all new lines up in the underbelly and we looked and found they attached the PEX to the steel frame with zip ties. We called them and they said they would come back out and fix it the way we wanted. Now there are several places the underbelly has been torn into and you can see the ground from behind tub wall and behind other bathroom shower wall etc. They also just left the old water lines in there where they cut them. We are older and we don’t want to have more problems in the future and is why we wanted to get water lines all redone but we cant have water lines out in open under home .The mold is very strong in our home now with the underbelly barrier open. We actually found slugs coming into our bedroom from under hot water heater left open too and the mice have been terrible last couple years. We have a concrete block foundation with craw space. In past we had big tub freeze and crack and where the city water line comes up out of ground under home and connects to our home line bust so we insulated it.
    Question is, what is the best all around way to secure and protect these water lines for below ( -tempts) freezing ? Should they put these lines up into the underbelly where it is not exposed where it suppose to be? Also,our mold barrier underbelly that’s been ripped into and hanging in like 2-3 foot areas, what’s both easy for the plumber to take care of and trouble free and cost effective for us? We already paid them and only want this done right. All help is appreciated
    Thanks ,Debbie

    • Hi Debbie!

      I’ve always been taught that water lines in an area where it freezes should be installed as close to the vents as possible (in the middle or sides of the home), above the belly wrap. Attaching it to the chassis is fine, I suppose. Don’t worry about the old water lines, as long as they’ve been capped off at all the proper points, there’s no need to remove them. It’s just additional work and you’ll need to pay extra to haul them off.

      Your belly wrap must cover everything so you’ll need to have it patched or replaced. Have the water lines insulated and put above the plastic, they should have known better than that in the first place. The heat from the vents helps keep your lines from freezing in the winter and the belly wrap traps the heat under the home as well as acts as a vapor barrier. To be honest, I wouldn’t invite this plumber back – they clearly do not understand mobile home construction and how it all works.

      Your new plumber will need to decide the best option to insulate the new water lines (sleeve it or box it in), I can’t really tell you more without looking at it. Just make sure they get that belly wrap up – it is very important.

      Let me know how it goes! Good luck!

    • Hi Bridgitte!

      That’s a really great question! Pressure reducing valves are workhorses of the plumbing industry and do a lot for our homes. Most importantly, they keep the highly pressurized water from the water company from blowing out our valves and fittings while still giving us enough water pressure to get clean, but they are also finicky little things!

      Personally, I think 110 psi is a bit high. If you experience leaks or drips, or your water heater tends to go bad quickly, the pressure may be an underlying cause.

      If possible, try to lower it to around 65 and see how that works for you. If you don’t like it raise it by 5 till it suits you. Ideally, I’d say 70 psi is a good rate that will give you the cleaning power you want while still keeping your faucets and fittings healthy (I believe the valves are typically set around 60-65 from the factory but I’m not 100% on that).

      Thanks so much for reading MHL! I appreciate you!

  79. I have a 1987 Peachtreee double wide mobile home. Water is turned off until we visit for vacation or weekend stay. 3 bedrooms and 3 full baths. I cannot get water to flow into mobile home from water main. I can hear water running from the main and meter is running. There was a leak at the main and the county replaced the connections. Water is not flowing into any of the 3 sinks, kitchen faucets or 3 toilets and faucets in the bathrooms. Outside spigot has no water flow either. Checked water line in yards but could not detect leaks. No visible water leaks under home. Plumber came out last fall and replaced T joint and gray pipe because it ruptured. A full repiping placem ent was not done. Any suggestions of how to get water flow into home?

    • Hi Rudy!

      Since you have no water at your outside spigot or in the home I’m prone to think there is a stoppage in the line from the meter to the home. Unfortunately, most water companies make you responsible for everything past the meter.

      First, Unhook the main line going into the home and see if you have water. If none, your issue is underground. If you do have water, your issue will be in the house. If the problem is underground about the only thing you can do is find where the leak is. It could be a root entered the line or a simple break in an old line. You’ll need to decide whether you’ll just run new line or try to repair the old. Usually, if the line is old, it’s best to just lay new pipe.

      If the issue is in the home, you’ll want to flush your water heater and all the lines going to it first to make sure there are not stoppages.

      Good luck!

  80. I have a question about a garden tub in our master bath of a 94 doublewide home. We had it fixed once for this same problem and it wasn’t long before it messed up again. It leaks badly at the hot and cold water handles, making it impossible to use this tub.
    Would you recommend a solution for us that might work? Thank you so much. I really want to be able to use this garden tub again.

    • Hi Elizabeth!

      It’s probably time to get a new faucet. If you know how to replace the inner workings of a faucet that would be cheaper but usually it’s easier to just replace the whole thing. You should be able to buy a tub faucet for less than $50.

      The biggest obstacle will be replacing the old faucet with the new. In our house, we have to go through our 2nd bedroom’s closet to do it. Most manufactured homes have a similar set up, you’ll have an access door you take off to get to the tub workings. With yours being a garden tub, you may have to come up through the floor.

      Here’s manufactured home tub faucets at Mobile Home Supply (though you can go to Lowe’s and buy one – you’ll just need the right fittings):

      If you want to send photos of your tub we can take a look and give you better idea of what you’ll need to do. My email is crystaladkins @ (just delete the spaces).

      Thanks so much!

  81. My daughter and I moved into a 2010 mobile home a couple of months ago. Today I came home to tons of air in our water lines! Why? The water had never been turned of.

    • Hi Kathy!

      It sounds like you either have a leak somewhere or if you’re on city water they may have had a line break or leak and when they fixed it air entered the line. You should be able to call your water company and ask.

      If you have well water you may have a leak and the bladder tank is allowing the air to build up.

      Can you email me at and I’ll have my husband text you. Thanks so much!

  82. My hubby and i came home today to the sound of running water under our mobile home. upon removing the skirting we see hot water in a steady drain from our hot water heater… where do we even start with this project?? we dont have the money to call a professional so any help would be appreciated.

    • Hi Kimberlee!

      It sounds like you’ve either got a busted pipe or joint, or your water heater rusted out. Replacing either one is a fairly simple job. If you can turn a screw-driver you can do it yourself!

      If you want us to walk you through the process just email me at crystaladkins(@) (take the parentheses out) and I’ll give you my cell number. We can text you through it.

  83. Thank you so much for this article my fiance and I just purchased a very old mobile home for less than 3000 were completely changing everything but haven’t yet turned on the water I’ve already run into a lot of problems with walls and etc which I expected but this article is awesome never heard of pex at all so I’ll be doing a lot of researching thanks again

    • Hi Adrian!

      PEX will be the absolute easiest and cheapest method for you to re-plumb your home. I promise! It has completely revolutionized the entire plumbing industry. Just grab the correct sized Sharkbite connectors and run it under the home. You’ll be all set!

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  84. Hey Crystal,I am replacing a tub j drain trap in our mobile home. The universal threaded trap I bought fits on the tub side but not the drain side. Is there a special mobile home trap I need to buy? Thanks, Tom (retired at the beach)

  85. Hi, I really enjoy reading your site. The other night, temps went down into the single digits so I let my faucets run but I only let the cold water run not the hot. Yesterday morning I woke up with no hot water. Cold water comes out of all the hot water taps. Cold taps work fine. I don’t hear any type noise coming from the hot water heater. I’m scared to open the access panel to do the reset button cause I thought I heard something in there. Don’t know if its frozen lines or the hot water heater. Your opinion is highly appreciated.

    • Howdy!

      First, you should check your breaker and make sure it hasn’t kicked. Kick on if it has. If that’s not the problem your element probably needs replaced. You can replace the elements fairly easy but you will have to open that access panel.

      If those don’t work let me know and we’ll go to the next step. You could have your cold water bleeding into your hot water line but let’s take it one step at a time.

      Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

  86. Hi Pam! You may want to check the line around the water heater. Usually your main water line breaks into 2 lines, one that goes to your water heater and the other is your cold water line. Sometimes the cold water will catch sediment (whereas the water tank catches whatever goes through it) and it clogs up.

    Good luck!

  87. I live in a double-wide manufactured home for five years now. Last night the temp. was below 10 degrees. I woke this morning without the cold water but the hot water seemed fine. It is well water supplied by community pumps, not city water. I had a new HW heater installed back in September by a certified contractor who also installed new heat tape from the meter well about 1 foot below ground to the HW heater. the heat tape has been working fine. We have had temps. like this many times. I am curious as to why I am still getting the hot water. I thought you still need pump pressure from the supply line. Any Ideas? Thanks

    • Hi Pat,

      It sounds like the T to the cold line (close to your water heater) is freezing. You have 1 main line that goes into your water heater but there’s a T before the water heater for your cold water. Look for that T and follow it under the home – that’s where you’ll need to add your heat tape or insulation.

      Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

  88. Thank you very much Crystal. Water damage to my mobile caused water shutoff to my kitchen for 4 months in the meantime roof replacement,ceiling in 4 rooms replacement, drywall in 2 rooms replacement, vinyl flooring replacement in kitchen, and laminate to be replaced in dinning room. Now here is my problem, r
    I had the leaky hoses replaced under the sink in the kitchen I decided not to put the dishwasher back. The leaks are gone I have running water, but I have this horrible stinch in the kitchen and it sounds like scratching in my walls first it was on the repair side of the house now alternate on both sides. The odor became so bad 4 days after we had water we left the house after raising 5 windows in the house. I returned the odor comes and goes and I haven’t heard the scratching noises. Please help. Asap

    • Hi Beverly!

      It sounds like you have an open sewer pipe or a ventilation issue. When you had your dishwasher uninstalled did the drain to the dishwasher get capped too? Maybe the dishwasher’s drain was accidentally left open. All you’ll need to do is find that and cap it like you did the water lines.

      If its not an open waste line from the dishwasher, then it’s possibly a ventilation issue. The noise could be your pipes and that usually means the system isn’t able to breathe properly. You can either look for a broken vent line (poor glue jobs, settling, or accidental cutting are the usual culprits when it comes to disconnected ventilation lines) or you can try installing an under-the-sink Studor vent. It will act as a mini-vent and help rid your home of the odor.

      My money is on the dishwasher drain assuming you had none of these issues until the dishwasher was disconnected.

      Let me know how it goes and if you have any other questions just holler. Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  89. Hi. I have to replace the heat tape on my water line. My water line is now laying on the ground. The maintenance guys told me that I have to hang the line up before putting on new heat tape. Could you tell me how high the line has to be? Could I just raise it a few inches? The water line also runs under the sewer drain(which I just fixed). Do I have to unhook it and run it above the sewer drain?

    • Hi Holly!

      If it isn’t possible to bury your main water line, use Arma Flex insulation (with the glue strip) and wrap the pipe then use straps to hang the pipe to keep it off the ground. The pipe should never touch the ground and using the insulation will probably keep you from having to use the heat tape (lower power bills!). There’s a lot more to it but I’m simplifying it. Of course, local codes will have to be met.

      If it’s the hot/cold pipe running from the water heater to the faucets/tub/etc. then buy some J-hooks or straps and use those to attach your water line under your home as close to the heating ducts as possible. You won’t want any of the pipe resting on the ground.

      Ideally, your main water supply will run from the ground straight up to the water heater. From there, the hot and cold lines will be ran under the home beside the heating ducts (above the insulation and plastic barrier) or as close as possible to the middle of the home so the heat from the ducts keeps it from freezing.

      If your plastic barrier is in a whole piece try to remove just enough to find a joist to attach it to (without damaging the plastic, you’ll have to reattach it after you’re finished getting the water lines up). You can also use straps if you find it easier to strap the lines to a joist.

      Sioux Chief Talons can be used to attach the pipe to the joists. Here’s a link to show you what they look like:

      Here’s what the Arma Flex pipe insulation looks like:

      Hope that helps! Good luck!

  90. We have decided to renovate a bathroom in our double-wide, gutting it completely, getting rid of the plastic tub and sink and putting in something different. We have decided to install a overflow drain for the tub but are having difficulties attaching to the existing pipes as the tub drain is “T’d” into the vent which goes up and out of the roof. Can we cut into the vent and have the overflow drain into it? Gravity will pull the water down but we certainly don’t want to compromise the vent. I love your website! You are helping us to be mobile home proud!

    • Hi Melissa!

      I want a bathroom makeover! Lucky! I spoke to my husband and he drew a diagram of how the overflow would ideally be installed into the system. It seemed a bit too complicated to write it all out.

      We weren’t sure if you are using glue or compression fittings (he likes glue better) so he added the transition fitting in case you use compression to go straight into the T. If you’re using glue you’ll be using a coupling instead of a trap adapter. Of course, you’ll need additional fittings to get it inline with the existing T (22’s, 45’s, or 90’s and/or couplings).

      If you have any problems just let us know or send us an image and we’ll go from there. Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  91. Our doublewide was made in l998. We’re on a well. It is snowing and quite
    cold. Our kitchen sink tap occaisionally spits a little air; but basically the water
    is coming in ok. Both toilets seem to refill quickly after each flush; but the
    bathroom taps for the sinks have now such lowered water pressure that there is
    only a tiny stream of water from either of them.
    They are both on the same side of the home, with a bedroom in between.

    Your advice will be appreciated.
    Thank you,

    Dave Bray

    • Hi Dave!

      Sorry it took so long to answer you – I didn’t see your comment!

      If neither your hot and cold is getting proper pressure you may want to check your aerator first (the screen at the tip of the faucet). Dirt and small particles get trapped and since it seems to be happening with both the hot and cold it just about has to be in your faucet. If your aerator is clean, try a new faucet. You should be able to get one for about $15.

      Also, if you are getting air in your lines then you may have a small leak somewhere from the expansion tank to your house that is allowing air to enter your line. You may want to look for drips or leaks or soggy ground around your line. Leaks usually get worse with time so you’ll want to find it and repair it before it gets worse.

      You are so lucky! I loved our well water growing up, we had the best water on the east coast and it spoiled me – I can’t stand city water at all now!

      Just let me know if you have any more questions – my direct email is (it’s usually faster to email me). Thanks for reading Mobile Home Living – I appreciate you!

  92. Hi Jeromy!

    Sorry your having issues! Could you tell me what type of pipe you have and also if the shut off valve is under the home? Was it water that burned you?

    The most common cause of water lines bursting like that is if your water has frozen, especially if it is CPVC. If your water is extremely forceful you may want to check the pressure reducing valve.

    When repairing the pipe make sure to use teflon tape and pipe dope in threaded fittings.

    Sorry we couldn’t be more specific!

  93. I am renting an older mobile home that has the vent pipes under the kitchen and bathroom sinks. There is also one in the bedroom closet. First, I was wondering what that vent in the closet is for? Second we have been having sewer smell in the home. It was coming from the closet with the vent so we replaced the vent. We are still smelling it from time to time but it doesn’t seem to be as strong in the closet. Seems to happen more when we are doing laundry but that’s not the only time it happens. Any ideas?

  94. Hi! I have been in my mobile home 12 years. It was brand new.
    All of a sudden last week when doing laundry our water was draining from the washer & coming up into the tub. now both toilets and tubs are full of dirty & clean water. HELP! I cannot afford a plumber. Is there a way to do this myself? Any advice on the least expensive way, even if something temporary until next month when I can afford to pay someone to look at it. Thanks!

    • Hi Melanie,

      It sounds like you have a stoppage somewhere in your line too. The best remedy would be snaking or jetting the line to clear the blockage.

      You may be able to rent a ‘professional’ snake from an industrial supply center and jet it yourself (be sure to research on the proper way to do it). You can also buy a small snake for $30 at Lowes here but to be honest those are only going to work for small blockages in the sinks and tub pipes. Since you’re experiencing back-flow it’s probably going to be in your main line under the home or in the line from your home to the main sewage line – your waste simply doesn’t have anywhere to go so it backs up. There could be a ventilation issue but if this just started and you haven’t had any bad odor or weird noises it’s most likely going to be a blockage.

      Trying Draino or some other drain cleaner may work – it could be worth a try – but those usually only work for small blockages. Root killer could be another remedy you might want to try (to be honest though, neither is going to work if it is a large blockage).

      You’ll want to hire a plumber that owns their own jet machine so make sure to ask before you hire them. If they have to rent the machine it’s going to cost more.

      Sorry to be the bearer of bad news! Keep us informed and let us know if you have any issues. My email is – we can help walk you through the steps if you do rent your own machine.

      Good luck!

  95. We have a 2000 mobile home double wide. When I drain the garden tub water comes up in the toilet and all the plumbing fixtures. I put baking soda and white vinegar in them and thought it was fixed. Today I ran the washing machine and it did the same thing when it drained. A plumber came out and snaked it from the roof and that didnt work. He said the clean out is under the trailer in the middle . Now what?

    • Hi Charmaine!

      It sounds like you need to have a jet machine put through the whole system – you probably have a stoppage in the main line somewhere, possibly outside the house (especially if it doesn’t happen as much or as bad if there is a bit of time between draining your tub, faucets, or washer). You could have roots invading your line or it could be regular ole drainage stoppage.

      A plumber should be able to find the clean out under the home (assuming there is one) or just cut into the line, jet it, and then reattach it. I don’t think there’s going to be home remedy but you can try draino or root killer – that may work.

      Good luck – let us know what happens and if you have any more questions!

  96. Sounds great! I want to get started on that this weekend! Now that my home is stripped down, I’m going to take some photos for “Before and After” purposes so I can share them when it gets closer to being a completed project. I’m sure I’ll have many more questions for you and the community as the process unfolds, ESPECIALLY when I get started on the bathroom. Thanks again for all that you do!

  97. very helpful article!! Thanks so much for providing such a handy website for the manufactured home community!! I own a 1983 Peachtree 14×70 single wide that I am in the process of restoring. The inside of the home is stripped completely out, all the way down to the particle board sub-floor. It still has the original polybutylene plumbing in place. I want to re-plumb the home before I get too deep into the restoration. Is it best to just bypass the existing PB plumbing and run all new hot and cold pex lines from the water inlet line to the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry area? Should I run the pex under the subfloor from the inside or just go underneath the home, run the pex under the belly tarp and then insulate the lines? I was told by another mobile home owner that I should avoid cutting the belly tarp if at all possible as they are difficult to patch and re-seal properly. The home is located in an established park in the United States, desert southwest area. Temperatures here rarely drop below freezing, even during the coldest winters. I’ve never done ANY plumbing so I am currently stumped as to the best approach for this project. Most plumbers in this town refuse to work on mobile homes and the few that will do it charge a much higher rate for labor on mobiles as opposed to site-built homes. Any info you could share with me would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks for all that you do!!

    • Hi Randall!

      Thank you so much for the kind words! I appreciate you so much!

      It is usually easier to just run all new PEX throughout the home. You can use shark-bites and be done with the whole home in a day! I would run it under the home on one side (whichever side your water heater is on) and either box it in or bundle it together and strap it to the underbelly and protect it somehow,(there’s foam covers that may work good for you) if your area gets below-freezing temps. If you don’t ever get freezig temps you probably won’t have to get too wrapped up in trying to protect the lines (get it? wrapped up? lol).

      You got some very good information about the belly tarp – if possible keep from tearing it or moving it at all because patching it is difficult and the tarp is very important for the health of the home. I have heard that it is easier these days to patch them then it used to be – I guess the patching kits have improved a lot in the last few years.

      I’m positive you can do this on your own and won’t need a plumber at all. They are awful expensive! If you have any problems or issues as you go just email me at and I’ll do my best to help – my hubby is a master plumber and he gives me a good rate…lol

      Good luck!

  98. I believe i have a ventilation line issue, after reading your information. I have water that is draining from washer coming out of roof. Could you tell me how to fix this problem?

    • Hi Shiela! You may have a stoppage in your drain line from your washer where the water has no where else to go but up and out. See if you can borrow or buy a snake (its a long metal hose that you put down in the pipe and turn a handle to make it longer, you can buy a small one for less than $30 at Lowes).

      I think that will fix you right up but if you need anything else just let me know. Good luck!

  99. Great site, we have a 1994 Fleetwood with the grey pipe, never had a problem (knock wood) but now the shower is dripping from the shower head. We have replaced the valves & seats in the past & the dripping stopped, this time with new valves & seats both generic & Phoenix brand the drip increased….called plumber & he wouldn’t even look at it to see if maybe my husband did something wrong, just wanted to cut the wall in my bedroom open & also cut fiberglass in shower stall & replace with Moen valve assembly to the tune of $850….this cost us $59 for that bit of devastating news. We put the old stuff back in & the drip diminished to almost very little as it was when we started. I don’t understand (1) why the new parts make it worse (they are same as old) & (2) why we were not offered any alternative to a total in the wall replacement.
    Thanks for any advice.

  100. Hey Crystal,
    I have a 1996 General double wide mobile home and I noticed water damage to some of the walls in the home in 2008. I had a plumber come out and he said that I don’t have any water pipes on the side of the house where the water damage is. He had me turn on the water while he was under the home to check for leaks on the opposite side of the house where the pipes are at and he said there were no leaking pipes. He suggested that it may be coming from the roof so I had a new roof put on in 2010. The areas where the water damage is is still wet. So I had another plumber come out and he could not find a leak either. The water damage is in 3 rooms of the house and it starts where the carpet meets the wall and goes up about 6 to 8 inches. There is a hot water heater in one of the bedrooms and that bedroom is adjacent to the rooms that contain the water damage. Any ideas or suggestions on where the leak is coming from would be greatly appreciated.

    • Hi Anita!

      I think you are experiencing humidity condensation from the ceiling or under the home. Believe it or not, condensation can often look and act just like a leak and produce enough moisture to rot walls and flooring. Make sure there are at least a couple of vents that allows air circulation to get to the area between your original roof and the interior ceiling. Sometime the vents aren’t properly setup during installation or sometimes when a new roof is added the installers cover over them accidentally. Are you seeing any warping in the ceilings anywhere? Maybe a little bow somewhere?

      That would be my guess if plumbing was ruled out as well as any possibility of leaks occurring from the roof or windows (or gutters). There’s also a chance that it could just be faulty, or no, exterior sheathing. My father bought a 1986 double wide brand new and when they delivered it it didn’t have one bit of exterior sheathing. It was vinyl siding, studs, and insulation…lol He assumed that it was a standard option but found out that it wasn’t. Lesson learned I

      It has to be something causing the damage, if the plumber checked the water heater, and all the lines are on the other side, then I would have to say its either condensation or water getting under the siding somehow (at the roof, widows, doors, etc). It could be entering at one side of the home and following along horizontal stud till finally appears at the carpet line. It could also be condensation under the home (if the vapor barrier under the home is ripped or torn, condensation can collect under the flooring).

      It really could be anything but I would look into the condensation above or below and a leak somewhere that’s allowing rain in. Good luck!

  101. Is the water line running in the belly skirt? Or underneath? We came home today to find water under the laminate flooring in the kitchen, not pouring out, but when you step on the laminate some squeezes out through the cracks. It seems to me that if the pipes are leaking then the water would leak into our crawlspace not up into the house.

    • Debbie,

      Yes, most water lines in manufactured homes run under the home but the water lines come up through the floor and connect to your faucet. Please look under your kitchen faucet or dishwasher for the leak. That connection may very well be the problem.

      If you’ve experienced a lot of snow or rain, if could be a leak around doors or windows. (The heat from the home could be melting the snow on the roof and traveling down a wall). You’ll want to shut your water off immediately either at the connection point, usually where your water hose connects outside or at the meter or well/pump. If it’s that bad (and that’s a pretty bad leak if it’s squeezing out) then your sub-flooring and walls will get water-logged and weaken the wood or it could cause mold issue later on. First, find the leak and fix it. Then lift the laminate and soak up as much water as possible and point fans to it. You don’t want the water to ‘sit’ on the wood for very long.

      So sorry you are experiencing this! If you need specific help please send me an email to and we’ll do our best to get you pointed in the right direction. Good luck!

    • Hi Brenda!

      Sorry you’re having issues! There’s got to be an underlying cause for the broken pipes – usually it’s either the pipes were faulty from the get go, their just old, the pressure is too high from the main line or the pipes are freezing and busting.

      If it’s an older home or the pipes are just faulty, you’ll probably just need to re-pipe the entire home. It will save a lot of time, money and frustration over just fixing the leaks as they happen.

      You could do it yourself for less than $100-150 in material. A roll of PEX with the proper fittings is about all you need – they make fittings that you just push into the pipe and they also make transitional fittings so you won’t have to replace your faucets connections. One day of labor should do it! Run the pipe as close to the middle of the home as possible and insulate it well, that should help with freezing. If your water has very high pressure, you might want to look at your pressure reducing valve. It lowers the pressure from the main water line before it goes into your home. The pressure is very high from the main line and if it’s not reduced or controlled it will cause the connections to fail quicker.

      If you have any specific issues just let me know! I’ll do my best to help. Good luck!

    • I’m glad it helped. I really need to learn to write better If you have any specific questions or just need some advice, just comment back and we’ll do our best to help.


      • Yes, I need help. I own the mobile home, but not the land and the landlord has told me to fix my leaky galvanized pipes or he will shut the water off to my mobile completely. I have to do this myself and I’m not a strong female, but I am a determined one. My question is .. How do I get the galvanized pipe off this mobile home?? I have to replace it with PEX – but the pipe was done in 1969 and it’s really wrenched on to connections. Can I cut it?? I can’t possibly cut thru it with a hacksaw, I’m not that strong… any ideas. It’s getting late in the year and the snow will fly soon and I will not have any water.
        Thanks so much

      • You can cut it Penny! If you have access to a sawzall that would probably be your best bet, there are blades you can buy just for the pipes that will saw right through them.

        You shouldn’t have too hard a time installing the PEX. It’s great for DIY beginners and you just about can’t go wrong with water lines. Look into using the shark bites for the PEX, you can just hand tighten them and get a good seal – I think they are the best invention ever! Now, if you have to replace the drain lines too, that could pose a bit of a hassle but nothing you can’t handle!

        My email address is If you need anything just email me directly -my husband is a master plumber and we’ll be happy to help you and walk you through it all. Together we can make sure you have water!


      • Due to flooding, our belly bag and pink insulation was damaged. We had to remove it all. We decided to spray foam the underneath. Since then, a prospective buyer informed us that in the event of a plumbing leak, the water would have no where to go and would travel upwards into our flooring and we would not realize it until it was too late. Could this possibly be true? Thank you for any help you can give. Lee

      • Hi Lee,

        That’s a possibility, I suppose. Just be proactive and check for leaks routinely. If you can poke a hole or two around your water fixtures (especially toilets and baths) you could give the water an escape route and a way to detect leaks. Plus, whenever there is a leak that wasn’t detected quickly you can almost guarantee that flooring will need to be replaced anyway, especially if its original particle board sub-flooring, that stuff just soaks the water up like a sponge. I think you’ll be OK.

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