Plumbing In Manufactured Homes: The Basics Home Improvement and Repair Plumbing in manufactured homes can be a great DIY project. As long as you can work with tools and understand the basic concepts of the plumbing system, you should do just fine. A manufactured home plumbing system is a more simplified version of a stick-built home, but that simplicity is not a bad thing, those differences makes everything much more accessible and easier to work on. Down the Drain by Alex Beltechi. Differences Between Plumbing in a Manufactured Home and Stick-Built Home Manufactured home plumbing systems are a little different than stick-built homes. The main water supply connection is usually found under the edge of the home, near your outdoor hose bib (where you connect your garden hose). The supply lines are usually housed in the middle of the home or on the side, depending on the layout and location of your water heater. Plumbing pipes are rarely housed within the walls of a manufactured home, but are stubbed straight through the floors under the sinks. Some manufacturers may have used the lightest, and often the cheapest plastic piping or galvanized metal, so replacement will be needed eventually in older homes. Galvanized pipe is known for rust issues and and the plastic piping (polybutylene) are known to corrode and cause leaks. There’s also issue with the connections. If you find yourself plagued with leaks, go ahead and re-pipe the home, if possible. In the end it will be far cheaper, and less stressful, than trying to fight with old material and patches. Area plumbing codes will be the ultimate factor in deciding what material to use but Pex seems to be a well received product, as long as the connections are high quality and a proper seal is made. Clean outs and overflows are not used very often in a manufactured home, though there is still a ventilation stack or soil stack as I’ve heard some call them. The stack is a small pipe sticking out of your home’s roof and carries the bad fumes and gases from waste away from your home. You have to have one for your plumbing to work properly. Know How to Turn Your Water Off You need to know where and how to turn your water off in case of an emergency, or before any repair. Being able to shut your water off quickly can be the difference in a complete disaster and a small inconvenience. The main stop valve should be around your outside garden hose water connection (hose bib as some call it) and most are easy to get to on a manufactured home. If you can’t find you connection, then you need to be able to cut your water off at the source: at the main water meter (assuming you are on a city system) or in your pump house if you are on a well system. If you are on city water you will need to own a water meter key in the shape of a five-sided pentagon to remove the cover. They come in different sizes so make sure you buy the right one. You can also use a wrench and long screw driver for a makeshift key – place a wrench on the vertical (or straight up and down) and the thread the screwdriver through the whole at the end of the wrench. The two tools will look like a T. Use the screwdriver to turn the wrench. This article about turning off your water supply is handy if you want to read more. FYI: It is smart to have cut off valves at every water source (faucet, tubs and toilet) however, if you have to repair or replace a supply line anywhere within your home, you must cut the main water supply off. There’s a lot of pressure in those lines and it needs to be reduced before you start cutting into them. How Basic Plumbing System Works Basically, there are 3 parts that make up the whole plumbing system. Supply lines do exactly what they say they do, supply the water. The next component is the drainage lines and they drain waste. Simple enough, huh? The last part is the ventilation lines. Your water supply lines are the smaller pipes (3/8-1 inch) that come into the home. They are usually either copper or Pex. If your home has white, cream or a medium grey pipe for your supply lines, you will probably want to replace them as most local regulations don’t recommend them and some have banned them altogether. The water comes through 1 line and then branches at the water heater so some water can get heated, from there a hot and cold line runs parallel to the faucets, tubs, etc. Your larger pipes (2″-4″) will be your drain lines. Drainage lines use gravity, traps and ventilation to ensure the optimum waste removal and keep gases and fumes from building up and releasing. Think of this as a completely closed system with positive and negative vacuum or pressure. All the parts have to work correctly to allow the system to do what it is designed for. Without the proper positive or negative pressure acting as a vacuum in the pipes the waste won’t go where it’s supposed to, it can back-flow instead. Drain pipes are usually made from copper or PVC. You have to get the grade right on drainage pipes because to much of a grade (or slant) will cause as much issue as to little. A 1/4″ to 1/2″ grade per every foot is ideal. Ventilation Pipes Ventilation pipes ventilate and help the waste keep the proper pressure or vacuum – in other words, it keeps water in all the right places. It is just as important as the supply and drain lines and you have to have ventilation in order to make it all work. Plumbing systems are much like a living thing – it has to have air and water. A single ventilation pipe in a manufactured home won’t help the drain pipes furthest away so they use what I’ve always just called a dry vent (they also call them auto vents, check vents, or air admittance valves). These vents allow air flow into the drains. Keep in mind that oftentimes a dry vent on a sink isn’t necessarily helping the sink it is tied into, it’s benefiting the other drains in the house. If you would like to learn more about auto vents, this article does well explaining, as does this one. Source: mobilehomerepair.com Remember that water is coming into your home under a lot of pressure through your supply lines. It can turn corners and go up several stories. If you have a leak in the system, imagine how much water can be lost in just a small amount of time! It really pays to be proactive and do a monthly plumbing check. Drainage leaks are sneaky little things. Water will always follow the path of least resistance so sometimes it’s hard to pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Here’s the simplest schematic I could find to show you: Know Your Plumbing Pipes You will need to know what type of pipe and fittings are used for each sub-system. There are basically 2 types of piping used in plumbing- metal and plastic. Most plumbing in manufactured homes use plastic. Plastic pipes include polyvinyl chloride (PVC), chlorinated polyvinyl chlorine (CPVC), PEX pipe and PolyPipe®. Metal plumbing pipe consists of copper, stainless steel and galvanized steel. Not all pipes are as useful or effective as others, and each type is used for a specific purpose in plumbing. Polybutylene Pipe Polybutylene was used in all types of homes, including manufactured homes, from the late 1970’s to the mid-1990’s. Several lawsuits were filed on behalf of millions of homeowners due to issues this material had. If you had any type of bleach in your water, and most city systems do, the pipe would break down and cause leaks and complete blowouts, usually within 5-10 years. You can’t buy it anymore but it’s still in more homes than it should be. It’s a medium grey color and will have PB and some numbers on the side. If you have this in your home today, you need to replace it and then go buy a lottery ticket cause you have been very lucky to have had it this long without any issues! If you are looking to buy an older manufactured home, do not buy it with this kind of pipe in it. Make the seller replace it or have them take the replacement cost off the price of the home (there may even be local and federal laws prohibiting the sale of a home with this type of pipe in it). PVC PVC is a type of plastic plumbing pipe primarily used to transport high pressured water. It is available in several standard sizes, ranging from ½ inch to 4 inches in diameter. PVC pipe is only made to handle cold water, as hot water will cause the pipe to warp. It is generally white in color, though a few varieties are gray. CPVC CPVC pipe that has received an extra chlorination. It comes in a distinctive yellow color, and can handle both hot and cold water. CPVC is more flexible with substantially thinner walls than PVC pipe, and has the same outer diameter as copper pipe, which increases it’s range of uses. PEX PEX, also known as cross linked polyethylene pipe, was first manufactured in the 1920s, but has become more popular in recent years. It shares the same outer diameter as copper, and can be used for both hot and cold water. However, PEX pipe has a much higher heat resistance than most other plumbing pipe, and is often used in water-based heating systems. It comes in a creamy white color, as well as red and blue which is used to denote hot and cold pipes respectively. I, and my husband who has been a master plumber for 18 years, absolutely recommend you replace your water lines with PEX when the time comes to update. You can use special fittings to secure the connections by hand or rent the tool needed to connect the lines. Pex, in our humblest of opinions, is the best pipe for water supply lines and is so much easier to install than anything else. PolyPipe® PolyPipe is a thick black pipe used to transport highly pressurized water, usually to and from the home. It is used almost exclusively outdoors, and is usually buried underground to prevent freezing. PolyPipe® is extremely rigid, and is rarely used for other purposes. Here’s a good video about a double wide re-pipe: Copper Copper is the most common type of plumbing pipe used in the home, although it is more expensive than plastic piping. Copper is especially resistant to corrosion, and can withstand high temperatures. Copper pipes come in three different sizes – type M, L, and K. Type M has very thin walls, while type L is of medium thickness, and type K is the thickest of the three. Stainless steel Stainless Steel pipe is less not as commonly used as other metal pipes, as it is more expensive and harder to find. It is primarily used in marine environments because it can withstand salt water, which would erode most other metal pipes. The price makes it less desirable for other applications, or in safer areas where a copper pipe would perform just as well. Galvanized Galvanized pipes have been used in homes for years, typically to carry water in and out of the house. The galvanized coating prevents rusting, and gives a dull gray appearance. Use of these heavy duty pipes is diminishing, as it is being replaced by PEX pipe, which is less expensive and just as durable. Galvanized pipes typically come in sizes between ½ inch and 2 inches in diameter. Nasty smells and weird noises No, it’s not your teenager. Notice the yellow vent lines in the schematic above? It’s the small pipe sticking out of your roof. There are wet vents and dry vents, the roof pipe is considered a wet vent. Without proper ventilation, you will encounter several issues. The worse being nasty fumes and a build up of gases that could cause some serious issues. Ventilation makes your pipes remain at a neutral pressure. Without proper venting your drainage slows and the water in your P-trap goes away, which in turn releases the nasty gas/fume combination. If you hear weird sounds coming from your walls you most likely have a venting problem. Think of a soda bottle: when you tip it half way, the liquid smoothly flows but when you turn it completely upside down, it makes gurgling sounds and the soda pours out slowly. That’s what happens when there’s not enough ventilation or air flow. If you have ventilation issues you can fix it yourself fairly easily. Leak Law.. Water is one of the most destructive forces on earth. It will always flow the path of least resistance. Plumbing in manufactured homes will rarely be inside a wall so you won’t need to worry to much about damage to walls, it will be floors that get the most of the damage and then just spread from there. Most plumbing pipes run under the home and up through the floors. A monthly check under your home is a good idea. Your flooring is most likely made of a composite wood and that stuff loves water – it just soaks it right up and eventually bows and rots. Plumbing Problems Leaks, clogs, low pressure, obnoxious odors and having no hot water are just a few of the issues that you may encounter. If your manufactured home is older you may have to replace the system entirely. There’s lots that can go wrong! We’ll try to cover them all in the future. Leaking Faucets Leaking can occur in a couple of different places on a faucet. It’s probably easier to just replace the whole unit than repairing. If you are especially attached to your faucet, this article about fixing leaking faucets should help. Clogs If you have a clog in your sink, a plunger can work well. They make a smaller plunger for the task. If you have a two sided sink, close off one side by stuffing a rag into the drain (cut off air) and plunge the other side, then switch – keep doing it until the clog is gone. If you have clog issues frequently, it may be time to find the underlying issue. You can remove your p-trap, if its closed off with grease you can clean it out or replace. You may need to add a dry vent to the next closest sink. If You Do Need a Plumber.. If you do need to call a professional plumber, my best advice is to ask every plumber, and any construction worker for that matter, if they actually passed the licensing exam or if they were grandfathered in. If they say grandfathered, get a different plumber. I’m serious. Allow me to explain: Here in WV and a couple other states I know of, they initiated a law making everyone on a construction site to carry a license. They offered 3 types: apprentice, journeyman and master. However, when the law first took affect, they gave everyone a time frame to apply and automatically receive the license as long as they paid the fee and signed a paper ‘confirming’ you had the experience needed to qualify for one of the three licenses. No one had to take an exam to prove their knowledge. Now, the state has hundreds of so-called master carpenters, electricians and plumbers that aren’t as knowledgeable as they should be. Also, ask for references and actually call and ask them how the job went. I hope that helps you. If you have any questions please feel free to ask them in the comments. My husband would be more than happy to answer any questions and yes, he took the exam to prove his knowledge. 😉 Thanks so much for reading Mobile & Manufactured Home Living! Share with your friends and family!Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window)Share on Facebook (Opens in new window)Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)Click to share on Google+ (Opens in new window)Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window) 80 Responses Don Morgan November 29, 2013 I could not have written a better article myself…Bravo Reply Godmund December 24, 2013 My parents bought a mobile home and now they have all these plumbing problems. This article set me on the right path. Reply Crystal Adkins December 24, 2013 I’m glad it helped. I really need to learn to write better though..lol. If you have any specific questions or just need some advice, just comment back and we’ll do our best to help. Thanks! Reply Penny October 16, 2014 Yes, I need help. I own the mobile home, but not the land and the landlord has told me to fix my leaky galvanized pipes or he will shut the water off to my mobile completely. I have to do this myself and I’m not a strong female, but I am a determined one. My question is .. How do I get the galvanized pipe off this mobile home?? I have to replace it with PEX – but the pipe was done in 1969 and it’s really wrenched on to connections. Can I cut it?? I can’t possibly cut thru it with a hacksaw, I’m not that strong… any ideas. It’s getting late in the year and the snow will fly soon and I will not have any water. Thanks so much Crystal Adkins October 17, 2014 You can cut it Penny! If you have access to a sawzall that would probably be your best bet, there are blades you can buy just for the pipes that will saw right through them. You shouldn’t have too hard a time installing the PEX. It’s great for DIY beginners and you just about can’t go wrong with water lines. Look into using the shark bites for the PEX, you can just hand tighten them and get a good seal – I think they are the best invention ever! Now, if you have to replace the drain lines too, that could pose a bit of a hassle but nothing you can’t handle! My email address is firstname.lastname@example.org. If you need anything just email me directly -my husband is a master plumber and we’ll be happy to help you and walk you through it all. Together we can make sure you have water! Thanks! brenda February 8, 2014 we keep getting broken pipes, ready to rip my hair out, i begining to think we bought a money pit!!!!! Reply Crystal Adkins February 9, 2014 Hi Brenda! Sorry you’re having issues! There’s got to be an underlying cause for the broken pipes – usually it’s either the pipes were faulty from the get go, their just old, the pressure is too high from the main line or the pipes are freezing and busting. If it’s an older home or the pipes are just faulty, you’ll probably just need to re-pipe the entire home. It will save a lot of time, money and frustration over just fixing the leaks as they happen. You could do it yourself for less than $100-150 in material. A roll of PEX with the proper fittings is about all you need – they make fittings that you just push into the pipe and they also make transitional fittings so you won’t have to replace your faucets connections. One day of labor should do it! Run the pipe as close to the middle of the home as possible and insulate it well, that should help with freezing. If your water has very high pressure, you might want to look at your pressure reducing valve. It lowers the pressure from the main water line before it goes into your home. The pressure is very high from the main line and if it’s not reduced or controlled it will cause the connections to fail quicker. If you have any specific issues just let me know! I’ll do my best to help. Good luck! Reply Debbie February 13, 2014 Is the water line running in the belly skirt? Or underneath? We came home today to find water under the laminate flooring in the kitchen, not pouring out, but when you step on the laminate some squeezes out through the cracks. It seems to me that if the pipes are leaking then the water would leak into our crawlspace not up into the house. Reply Crystal Adkins February 14, 2014 Debbie, Yes, most water lines in manufactured homes run under the home but the water lines come up through the floor and connect to your faucet. Please look under your kitchen faucet or dishwasher for the leak. That connection may very well be the problem. If you’ve experienced a lot of snow or rain, if could be a leak around doors or windows. (The heat from the home could be melting the snow on the roof and traveling down a wall). You’ll want to shut your water off immediately either at the connection point, usually where your water hose connects outside or at the meter or well/pump. If it’s that bad (and that’s a pretty bad leak if it’s squeezing out) then your sub-flooring and walls will get water-logged and weaken the wood or it could cause mold issue later on. First, find the leak and fix it. Then lift the laminate and soak up as much water as possible and point fans to it. You don’t want the water to ‘sit’ on the wood for very long. So sorry you are experiencing this! If you need specific help please send me an email to email@example.com and we’ll do our best to get you pointed in the right direction. Good luck! Reply Anita Garmon May 3, 2014 Hey Crystal, I have a 1996 General double wide mobile home and I noticed water damage to some of the walls in the home in 2008. I had a plumber come out and he said that I don’t have any water pipes on the side of the house where the water damage is. He had me turn on the water while he was under the home to check for leaks on the opposite side of the house where the pipes are at and he said there were no leaking pipes. He suggested that it may be coming from the roof so I had a new roof put on in 2010. The areas where the water damage is is still wet. So I had another plumber come out and he could not find a leak either. The water damage is in 3 rooms of the house and it starts where the carpet meets the wall and goes up about 6 to 8 inches. There is a hot water heater in one of the bedrooms and that bedroom is adjacent to the rooms that contain the water damage. Any ideas or suggestions on where the leak is coming from would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Anita Reply Crystal Adkins May 5, 2014 Hi Anita! I think you are experiencing humidity condensation from the ceiling or under the home. Believe it or not, condensation can often look and act just like a leak and produce enough moisture to rot walls and flooring. Make sure there are at least a couple of vents that allows air circulation to get to the area between your original roof and the interior ceiling. Sometime the vents aren’t properly setup during installation or sometimes when a new roof is added the installers cover over them accidentally. Are you seeing any warping in the ceilings anywhere? Maybe a little bow somewhere? That would be my guess if plumbing was ruled out as well as any possibility of leaks occurring from the roof or windows (or gutters). There’s also a chance that it could just be faulty, or no, exterior sheathing. My father bought a 1986 double wide brand new and when they delivered it it didn’t have one bit of exterior sheathing. It was vinyl siding, studs, and insulation…lol He assumed that it was a standard option but found out that it wasn’t. Lesson learned I supposed..lol It has to be something causing the damage, if the plumber checked the water heater, and all the lines are on the other side, then I would have to say its either condensation or water getting under the siding somehow (at the roof, widows, doors, etc). It could be entering at one side of the home and following along horizontal stud till finally appears at the carpet line. It could also be condensation under the home (if the vapor barrier under the home is ripped or torn, condensation can collect under the flooring). It really could be anything but I would look into the condensation above or below and a leak somewhere that’s allowing rain in. Good luck! Reply Rachel Hudson June 27, 2014 Great info for novice like me. Thanks! Reply Karen September 9, 2014 Great site, we have a 1994 Fleetwood with the grey pipe, never had a problem (knock wood) but now the shower is dripping from the shower head. We have replaced the valves & seats in the past & the dripping stopped, this time with new valves & seats both generic & Phoenix brand the drip increased….called plumber & he wouldn’t even look at it to see if maybe my husband did something wrong, just wanted to cut the wall in my bedroom open & also cut fiberglass in shower stall & replace with Moen valve assembly to the tune of $850….this cost us $59 for that bit of devastating news. We put the old stuff back in & the drip diminished to almost very little as it was when we started. I don’t understand (1) why the new parts make it worse (they are same as old) & (2) why we were not offered any alternative to a total in the wall replacement. Thanks for any advice. Reply shiela September 15, 2014 I believe i have a ventilation line issue, after reading your information. I have water that is draining from washer coming out of roof. Could you tell me how to fix this problem? Reply Crystal Adkins September 22, 2014 Hi Shiela! You may have a stoppage in your drain line from your washer where the water has no where else to go but up and out. See if you can borrow or buy a snake (its a long metal hose that you put down in the pipe and turn a handle to make it longer, you can buy a small one for less than $30 at Lowes). I think that will fix you right up but if you need anything else just let me know. Good luck! Reply Randall October 30, 2014 very helpful article!! Thanks so much for providing such a handy website for the manufactured home community!! I own a 1983 Peachtree 14×70 single wide that I am in the process of restoring. The inside of the home is stripped completely out, all the way down to the particle board sub-floor. It still has the original polybutylene plumbing in place. I want to re-plumb the home before I get too deep into the restoration. Is it best to just bypass the existing PB plumbing and run all new hot and cold pex lines from the water inlet line to the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry area? Should I run the pex under the subfloor from the inside or just go underneath the home, run the pex under the belly tarp and then insulate the lines? I was told by another mobile home owner that I should avoid cutting the belly tarp if at all possible as they are difficult to patch and re-seal properly. The home is located in an established park in the United States, desert southwest area. Temperatures here rarely drop below freezing, even during the coldest winters. I’ve never done ANY plumbing so I am currently stumped as to the best approach for this project. Most plumbers in this town refuse to work on mobile homes and the few that will do it charge a much higher rate for labor on mobiles as opposed to site-built homes. Any info you could share with me would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks for all that you do!! Reply Crystal Adkins October 30, 2014 Hi Randall! Thank you so much for the kind words! I appreciate you so much! It is usually easier to just run all new PEX throughout the home. You can use shark-bites and be done with the whole home in a day! I would run it under the home on one side (whichever side your water heater is on) and either box it in or bundle it together and strap it to the underbelly and protect it somehow,(there’s foam covers that may work good for you) if your area gets below-freezing temps. If you don’t ever get freezig temps you probably won’t have to get too wrapped up in trying to protect the lines (get it? wrapped up? lol). You got some very good information about the belly tarp – if possible keep from tearing it or moving it at all because patching it is difficult and the tarp is very important for the health of the home. I have heard that it is easier these days to patch them then it used to be – I guess the patching kits have improved a lot in the last few years. I’m positive you can do this on your own and won’t need a plumber at all. They are awful expensive! If you have any problems or issues as you go just email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I’ll do my best to help – my hubby is a master plumber and he gives me a good rate…lol Good luck! Reply Randall October 31, 2014 Sounds great! I want to get started on that this weekend! Now that my home is stripped down, I’m going to take some photos for “Before and After” purposes so I can share them when it gets closer to being a completed project. I’m sure I’ll have many more questions for you and the community as the process unfolds, ESPECIALLY when I get started on the bathroom. Thanks again for all that you do! Reply Charmian Inman November 3, 2014 We have a 2000 mobile home double wide. When I drain the garden tub water comes up in the toilet and all the plumbing fixtures. I put baking soda and white vinegar in them and thought it was fixed. Today I ran the washing machine and it did the same thing when it drained. A plumber came out and snaked it from the roof and that didnt work. He said the clean out is under the trailer in the middle . Now what? Reply Crystal Adkins November 6, 2014 Hi Charmaine! It sounds like you need to have a jet machine put through the whole system – you probably have a stoppage in the main line somewhere, possibly outside the house (especially if it doesn’t happen as much or as bad if there is a bit of time between draining your tub, faucets, or washer). You could have roots invading your line or it could be regular ole drainage stoppage. A plumber should be able to find the clean out under the home (assuming there is one) or just cut into the line, jet it, and then reattach it. I don’t think there’s going to be home remedy but you can try draino or root killer – that may work. Good luck – let us know what happens and if you have any more questions! Reply Melanie November 7, 2014 Hi! I have been in my mobile home 12 years. It was brand new. All of a sudden last week when doing laundry our water was draining from the washer & coming up into the tub. now both toilets and tubs are full of dirty & clean water. HELP! I cannot afford a plumber. Is there a way to do this myself? Any advice on the least expensive way, even if something temporary until next month when I can afford to pay someone to look at it. Thanks! Reply Crystal Adkins November 7, 2014 Hi Melanie, It sounds like you have a stoppage somewhere in your line too. The best remedy would be snaking or jetting the line to clear the blockage. You may be able to rent a ‘professional’ snake from an industrial supply center and jet it yourself (be sure to research on the proper way to do it). You can also buy a small snake for $30 at Lowes here but to be honest those are only going to work for small blockages in the sinks and tub pipes. Since you’re experiencing back-flow it’s probably going to be in your main line under the home or in the line from your home to the main sewage line – your waste simply doesn’t have anywhere to go so it backs up. There could be a ventilation issue but if this just started and you haven’t had any bad odor or weird noises it’s most likely going to be a blockage. Trying Draino or some other drain cleaner may work – it could be worth a try – but those usually only work for small blockages. Root killer could be another remedy you might want to try (to be honest though, neither is going to work if it is a large blockage). You’ll want to hire a plumber that owns their own jet machine so make sure to ask before you hire them. If they have to rent the machine it’s going to cost more. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news! Keep us informed and let us know if you have any issues. My email is email@example.com – we can help walk you through the steps if you do rent your own machine. Good luck! Reply Jeremy November 7, 2014 I am renting an older mobile home that has the vent pipes under the kitchen and bathroom sinks. There is also one in the bedroom closet. First, I was wondering what that vent in the closet is for? Second we have been having sewer smell in the home. It was coming from the closet with the vent so we replaced the vent. We are still smelling it from time to time but it doesn’t seem to be as strong in the closet. Seems to happen more when we are doing laundry but that’s not the only time it happens. Any ideas? Reply Crystal Adkins November 9, 2014 Hi Jeremy, The vent is probably for your tub drain. They use those instead of the vents that go out of your roof. I think you can remedy the odor issue by buying a Studor vent. Studor vents doesn’t let air out, only in so the chances of having any smell is significantly reduced. Studor vents are a bit more expensive than a regular vent – usually around $25 – but they last a long time and are easy to install. Here’s one I found at Home depot (just get the right size). http://www.homedepot.com/p/STUDOR-1-1-2-in-or-2-in-PVC-Mini-Vent-Adapter-20341/202275238 Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any more questions! Reply Jeremy November 10, 2014 Thank you very much I will try that hopefully it will fix the problem Cant stand that smell!!!! Crystal Adkins November 12, 2014 You’re welcome! Let me know how it goes! jeromy November 11, 2014 (AWESOME WEBSITE) Hi my name is jeromy not the same jeromy above lol. this morning my girlfriend was taking a shower and all of a sudden I heard water gushing from under the house so I ran outside and turned the main water off. their was water everywhere. Her dad came to see what the problem was (i had to work) he saw a pipe cracked and had detached above where the main water shut off valve is. he replaced the pipe and put a new fitting even insulated it. her son was taking a shower about 3 hours ago and boom water gushing again??? this time I burned the crap out of my hand and arm because like I said, the water was coming from right above the main shut off valve and it was dark. should’ve took a flashlight but it was a fast reaction. but im not sure if its the same pipe he fixed but do you think maybe we have to much pressure. any advice will be greatly appreciated Reply Crystal Adkins November 12, 2014 Hi Jeromy! Sorry your having issues! Could you tell me what type of pipe you have and also if the shut off valve is under the home? Was it water that burned you? The most common cause of water lines bursting like that is if your water has frozen, especially if it is CPVC. If your water is extremely forceful you may want to check the pressure reducing valve. When repairing the pipe make sure to use teflon tape and pipe dope in threaded fittings. Sorry we couldn’t be more specific! Reply jeromy November 13, 2014 thank you very much for your reply. I had a plumber come and check it all he did was put a brass 90 degree shark bite on it and its held ever since. He said that my girlfriends dad put the plastic screw on type and theres an insert that you put inside the grey hose that he did NOT put which caused it not to tighten properly but so far so good. If I ever have another problem I will definitely contact you on this website. THANK YOU for your time. Reply Crystal Adkins November 13, 2014 So glad you got it all worked out! You can email directly at firstname.lastname@example.org anytime. Thanks so much for reading MHL! I appreciate your time! Reply Dave November 22, 2014 Our doublewide was made in l998. We’re on a well. It is snowing and quite cold. Our kitchen sink tap occaisionally spits a little air; but basically the water is coming in ok. Both toilets seem to refill quickly after each flush; but the bathroom taps for the sinks have now such lowered water pressure that there is only a tiny stream of water from either of them. They are both on the same side of the home, with a bedroom in between. Your advice will be appreciated. Thank you, Dave Bray Reply Crystal Adkins November 26, 2014 Hi Dave! Sorry it took so long to answer you – I didn’t see your comment! If neither your hot and cold is getting proper pressure you may want to check your aerator first (the screen at the tip of the faucet). Dirt and small particles get trapped and since it seems to be happening with both the hot and cold it just about has to be in your faucet. If your aerator is clean, try a new faucet. You should be able to get one for about $15. Also, if you are getting air in your lines then you may have a small leak somewhere from the expansion tank to your house that is allowing air to enter your line. You may want to look for drips or leaks or soggy ground around your line. Leaks usually get worse with time so you’ll want to find it and repair it before it gets worse. You are so lucky! I loved our well water growing up, we had the best water on the east coast and it spoiled me – I can’t stand city water at all now! Just let me know if you have any more questions – my direct email is email@example.com (it’s usually faster to email me). Thanks for reading Mobile Home Living – I appreciate you! Reply Mobile Home Plumbing FixturesHomesSweet.com | HomesSweet.com December 2, 2014 […] Plumbing in manufactured homes – mobile & manufactured […] Reply Melissa January 3, 2015 We have decided to renovate a bathroom in our double-wide, gutting it completely, getting rid of the plastic tub and sink and putting in something different. We have decided to install a overflow drain for the tub but are having difficulties attaching to the existing pipes as the tub drain is “T’d” into the vent which goes up and out of the roof. Can we cut into the vent and have the overflow drain into it? Gravity will pull the water down but we certainly don’t want to compromise the vent. I love your website! You are helping us to be mobile home proud! Reply Crystal Adkins January 6, 2015 Hi Melissa! I want a bathroom makeover! Lucky! I spoke to my husband and he drew a diagram of how the overflow would ideally be installed into the system. It seemed a bit too complicated to write it all out. We weren’t sure if you are using glue or compression fittings (he likes glue better) so he added the transition fitting in case you use compression to go straight into the T. If you’re using glue you’ll be using a coupling instead of a trap adapter. Of course, you’ll need additional fittings to get it inline with the existing T (22’s, 45’s, or 90’s and/or couplings). Here’s the diagram: If you have any problems just let us know or send us an image and we’ll go from there. Thanks so much for reading MHL! Reply Holly January 4, 2015 Hi. I have to replace the heat tape on my water line. My water line is now laying on the ground. The maintenance guys told me that I have to hang the line up before putting on new heat tape. Could you tell me how high the line has to be? Could I just raise it a few inches? The water line also runs under the sewer drain(which I just fixed). Do I have to unhook it and run it above the sewer drain? Reply Holly January 4, 2015 By the way, the water line is copper. Reply Crystal Adkins January 6, 2015 Hi Holly! If it isn’t possible to bury your main water line, use Arma Flex insulation (with the glue strip) and wrap the pipe then use straps to hang the pipe to keep it off the ground. The pipe should never touch the ground and using the insulation will probably keep you from having to use the heat tape (lower power bills!). There’s a lot more to it but I’m simplifying it. Of course, local codes will have to be met. If it’s the hot/cold pipe running from the water heater to the faucets/tub/etc. then buy some J-hooks or straps and use those to attach your water line under your home as close to the heating ducts as possible. You won’t want any of the pipe resting on the ground. Ideally, your main water supply will run from the ground straight up to the water heater. From there, the hot and cold lines will be ran under the home beside the heating ducts (above the insulation and plastic barrier) or as close as possible to the middle of the home so the heat from the ducts keeps it from freezing. If your plastic barrier is in a whole piece try to remove just enough to find a joist to attach it to (without damaging the plastic, you’ll have to reattach it after you’re finished getting the water lines up). You can also use straps if you find it easier to strap the lines to a joist. Sioux Chief Talons can be used to attach the pipe to the joists. Here’s a link to show you what they look like: http://www.siouxchief.com/products/support/supply-hangers/plastic-cts Here’s what the Arma Flex pipe insulation looks like:http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Pipe-Insulation/Armaflex/N-5yc1vZbuy9Zaee Hope that helps! Good luck! Reply Beverly February 9, 2015 Thank you very much Crystal. Water damage to my mobile caused water shutoff to my kitchen for 4 months in the meantime roof replacement,ceiling in 4 rooms replacement, drywall in 2 rooms replacement, vinyl flooring replacement in kitchen, and laminate to be replaced in dinning room. Now here is my problem, r I had the leaky hoses replaced under the sink in the kitchen I decided not to put the dishwasher back. The leaks are gone I have running water, but I have this horrible stinch in the kitchen and it sounds like scratching in my walls first it was on the repair side of the house now alternate on both sides. The odor became so bad 4 days after we had water we left the house after raising 5 windows in the house. I returned the odor comes and goes and I haven’t heard the scratching noises. Please help. Asap Reply Crystal Adkins February 9, 2015 Hi Beverly! It sounds like you have an open sewer pipe or a ventilation issue. When you had your dishwasher uninstalled did the drain to the dishwasher get capped too? Maybe the dishwasher’s drain was accidentally left open. All you’ll need to do is find that and cap it like you did the water lines. If its not an open waste line from the dishwasher, then it’s possibly a ventilation issue. The noise could be your pipes and that usually means the system isn’t able to breathe properly. You can either look for a broken vent line (poor glue jobs, settling, or accidental cutting are the usual culprits when it comes to disconnected ventilation lines) or you can try installing an under-the-sink Studor vent. It will act as a mini-vent and help rid your home of the odor. My money is on the dishwasher drain assuming you had none of these issues until the dishwasher was disconnected. Let me know how it goes and if you have any other questions just holler. Thanks so much for reading MHL! Reply Pat February 13, 2015 I live in a double-wide manufactured home for five years now. Last night the temp. was below 10 degrees. I woke this morning without the cold water but the hot water seemed fine. It is well water supplied by community pumps, not city water. I had a new HW heater installed back in September by a certified contractor who also installed new heat tape from the meter well about 1 foot below ground to the HW heater. the heat tape has been working fine. We have had temps. like this many times. I am curious as to why I am still getting the hot water. I thought you still need pump pressure from the supply line. Any Ideas? Thanks Reply Pat February 13, 2015 Thanks Reply Crystal Adkins February 18, 2015 Hi Pat, It sounds like the T to the cold line (close to your water heater) is freezing. You have 1 main line that goes into your water heater but there’s a T before the water heater for your cold water. Look for that T and follow it under the home – that’s where you’ll need to add your heat tape or insulation. Good luck! Let me know how it goes! Reply Pam February 20, 2015 having problems with cold water pressure, little or no cold water in the mobile home, toilets etc. Reply Crystal Adkins February 23, 2015 Hi Pam! You may want to check the line around the water heater. Usually your main water line breaks into 2 lines, one that goes to your water heater and the other is your cold water line. Sometimes the cold water will catch sediment (whereas the water tank catches whatever goes through it) and it clogs up. Good luck! Reply tangerinegal March 7, 2015 Hi, I really enjoy reading your site. The other night, temps went down into the single digits so I let my faucets run but I only let the cold water run not the hot. Yesterday morning I woke up with no hot water. Cold water comes out of all the hot water taps. Cold taps work fine. I don’t hear any type noise coming from the hot water heater. I’m scared to open the access panel to do the reset button cause I thought I heard something in there. Don’t know if its frozen lines or the hot water heater. Your opinion is highly appreciated. Reply Crystal Adkins March 13, 2015 Howdy! First, you should check your breaker and make sure it hasn’t kicked. Kick on if it has. If that’s not the problem your element probably needs replaced. You can replace the elements fairly easy but you will have to open that access panel. If those don’t work let me know and we’ll go to the next step. You could have your cold water bleeding into your hot water line but let’s take it one step at a time. Good luck! Let me know how it goes! Reply Tom March 10, 2015 Hey Crystal,I am replacing a tub j drain trap in our mobile home. The universal threaded trap I bought fits on the tub side but not the drain side. Is there a special mobile home trap I need to buy? Thanks, Tom (retired at the beach) Reply Crystal Adkins March 13, 2015 Hi Tom! You should be able to find a trap adapter that can help you get the j trap down to the right size (if I’m understanding the problem correctly). Here’s a link to Lowe’s trap adapters: http://www.lowes.com/pd_23296-1814-PVC+00103P+0800_0__?productId=3132719 If that’s not what you’re needing just let me know. Thanks so much! Reply Adrian March 31, 2015 Thank you so much for this article my fiance and I just purchased a very old mobile home for less than 3000 were completely changing everything but haven’t yet turned on the water I’ve already run into a lot of problems with walls and etc which I expected but this article is awesome never heard of pex at all so I’ll be doing a lot of researching thanks again Reply Crystal Adkins April 3, 2015 Hi Adrian! PEX will be the absolute easiest and cheapest method for you to re-plumb your home. I promise! It has completely revolutionized the entire plumbing industry. Just grab the correct sized Sharkbite connectors and run it under the home. You’ll be all set! Thanks so much for reading MHL! Reply Kimberlee April 4, 2015 My hubby and i came home today to the sound of running water under our mobile home. upon removing the skirting we see hot water in a steady drain from our hot water heater… where do we even start with this project?? we dont have the money to call a professional so any help would be appreciated. Reply Crystal Adkins April 7, 2015 Hi Kimberlee! It sounds like you’ve either got a busted pipe or joint, or your water heater rusted out. Replacing either one is a fairly simple job. If you can turn a screw-driver you can do it yourself! If you want us to walk you through the process just email me at crystaladkins(@)mobilehomeliving.org (take the parentheses out) and I’ll give you my cell number. We can text you through it. Reply Kathy April 9, 2015 My daughter and I moved into a 2010 mobile home a couple of months ago. Today I came home to tons of air in our water lines! Why? The water had never been turned of. Reply Crystal Adkins April 10, 2015 Hi Kathy! It sounds like you either have a leak somewhere or if you’re on city water they may have had a line break or leak and when they fixed it air entered the line. You should be able to call your water company and ask. If you have well water you may have a leak and the bladder tank is allowing the air to build up. Can you email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I’ll have my husband text you. Thanks so much! Reply Elizabeth May 5, 2015 I have a question about a garden tub in our master bath of a 94 doublewide home. We had it fixed once for this same problem and it wasn’t long before it messed up again. It leaks badly at the hot and cold water handles, making it impossible to use this tub. Would you recommend a solution for us that might work? Thank you so much. I really want to be able to use this garden tub again. Elizabeth Reply Crystal Adkins May 6, 2015 Hi Elizabeth! It’s probably time to get a new faucet. If you know how to replace the inner workings of a faucet that would be cheaper but usually it’s easier to just replace the whole thing. You should be able to buy a tub faucet for less than $50. The biggest obstacle will be replacing the old faucet with the new. In our house, we have to go through our 2nd bedroom’s closet to do it. Most manufactured homes have a similar set up, you’ll have an access door you take off to get to the tub workings. With yours being a garden tub, you may have to come up through the floor. Here’s manufactured home tub faucets at Mobile Home Supply (though you can go to Lowe’s and buy one – you’ll just need the right fittings): http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=BF If you want to send photos of your tub we can take a look and give you better idea of what you’ll need to do. My email is crystaladkins @ mobilehomeliving.org (just delete the spaces). Thanks so much! Reply Rudy Long May 31, 2015 I have a 1987 Peachtreee double wide mobile home. Water is turned off until we visit for vacation or weekend stay. 3 bedrooms and 3 full baths. I cannot get water to flow into mobile home from water main. I can hear water running from the main and meter is running. There was a leak at the main and the county replaced the connections. Water is not flowing into any of the 3 sinks, kitchen faucets or 3 toilets and faucets in the bathrooms. Outside spigot has no water flow either. Checked water line in yards but could not detect leaks. No visible water leaks under home. Plumber came out last fall and replaced T joint and gray pipe because it ruptured. A full repiping placem ent was not done. Any suggestions of how to get water flow into home? Thanks Reply Crystal Adkins June 2, 2015 Hi Rudy! Since you have no water at your outside spigot or in the home I’m prone to think there is a stoppage in the line from the meter to the home. Unfortunately, most water companies make you responsible for everything past the meter. First, Unhook the main line going into the home and see if you have water. If none, your issue is underground. If you do have water, your issue will be in the house. If the problem is underground about the only thing you can do is find where the leak is. It could be a root entered the line or a simple break in an old line. You’ll need to decide whether you’ll just run new line or try to repair the old. Usually, if the line is old, it’s best to just lay new pipe. If the issue is in the home, you’ll want to flush your water heater and all the lines going to it first to make sure there are not stoppages. Good luck! Reply Bridgitte June 1, 2015 How much should my water pressure be? I had it check it is at 110. I would like to know is this ok? Thankd Reply Crystal Adkins June 2, 2015 Hi Bridgitte! That’s a really great question! Pressure reducing valves are workhorses of the plumbing industry and do a lot for our homes. Most importantly, they keep the highly pressurized water from the water company from blowing out our valves and fittings while still giving us enough water pressure to get clean, but they are also finicky little things! Personally, I think 110 psi is a bit high. If you experience leaks or drips, or your water heater tends to go bad quickly, the pressure may be an underlying cause. If possible, try to lower it to around 65 and see how that works for you. If you don’t like it raise it by 5 till it suits you. Ideally, I’d say 70 psi is a good rate that will give you the cleaning power you want while still keeping your faucets and fittings healthy (I believe the valves are typically set around 60-65 from the factory but I’m not 100% on that). Thanks so much for reading MHL! I appreciate you! Reply Debbie Lin June 15, 2015 Hi, We have a big dilemma. Our manufactured home is 86 home. We had so many water leaks over the years . Which 85% time it enquired crawling under house to fix. All floors have been replaced over time from damage. We live in Illinois and it can get extremely cold and have had a few winters with busted Hot water heater and pipes. We now had our house , all new PEX with crimped fittings. We were under the impression plumber was going to put all new lines up in the underbelly and we looked and found they attached the PEX to the steel frame with zip ties. We called them and they said they would come back out and fix it the way we wanted. Now there are several places the underbelly has been torn into and you can see the ground from behind tub wall and behind other bathroom shower wall etc. They also just left the old water lines in there where they cut them. We are older and we don’t want to have more problems in the future and is why we wanted to get water lines all redone but we cant have water lines out in open under home .The mold is very strong in our home now with the underbelly barrier open. We actually found slugs coming into our bedroom from under hot water heater left open too and the mice have been terrible last couple years. We have a concrete block foundation with craw space. In past we had big tub freeze and crack and where the city water line comes up out of ground under home and connects to our home line bust so we insulated it. Question is, what is the best all around way to secure and protect these water lines for below ( -tempts) freezing ? Should they put these lines up into the underbelly where it is not exposed where it suppose to be? Also,our mold barrier underbelly that’s been ripped into and hanging in like 2-3 foot areas, what’s both easy for the plumber to take care of and trouble free and cost effective for us? We already paid them and only want this done right. All help is appreciated Thanks ,Debbie Reply Crystal Adkins June 16, 2015 Hi Debbie! I’ve always been taught that water lines in an area where it freezes should be installed as close to the vents as possible (in the middle or sides of the home), above the belly wrap. Attaching it to the chassis is fine, I suppose. Don’t worry about the old water lines, as long as they’ve been capped off at all the proper points, there’s no need to remove them. It’s just additional work and you’ll need to pay extra to haul them off. Your belly wrap must cover everything so you’ll need to have it patched or replaced. Have the water lines insulated and put above the plastic, they should have known better than that in the first place. The heat from the vents helps keep your lines from freezing in the winter and the belly wrap traps the heat under the home as well as acts as a vapor barrier. To be honest, I wouldn’t invite this plumber back – they clearly do not understand mobile home construction and how it all works. Your new plumber will need to decide the best option to insulate the new water lines (sleeve it or box it in), I can’t really tell you more without looking at it. Just make sure they get that belly wrap up – it is very important. Let me know how it goes! Good luck! Reply Bill Lynch June 20, 2015 My wife and I own a Solitaire Megawide (18 X 76) on 10.5 acres. We’ve decided that we want to re-route the gray water to use for watering our garden and lawn and to take some stress off our septic system. All the plumbing is under the house covered by the underbelly fabric. I’ve done some plumbing stuff — running plumbing to an outside barn and a lot of repairs. I laid the water line from our well to the house. I once replaced the main sewer line in a previous home. I’m pretty sure that I can handle this job, but I’m a little skiddish about cutting into that fabric underneath the house to see just what I’m up against. Basically, I don’t want to make a mess of things. Any suggestions? Are there any publications that you would recommend? Reply Crystal Adkins June 22, 2015 Hi Bill! You are right to be a bit worried about cutting the belly wrap – it is very important! Luckily, you can buy wrap repair tape to fix any cuts that you need to make (warning: it’s a pain in the neck but it’s necessary so make the smallest cuts you can and have a helper ready to help you when the time comes to repair it). You may also be able to remove the staples used to attach the plastic to the perimeter of the home though that is a lot of work. As long as you tape the cuts and keep the plastic taught against the home’s bottom you should be OK. Good Luck! Reply Monica July 3, 2015 Hi! My Fiancé and I are remodeling a 1970’s Fleetwood single wide and we want to have a shutoff valve under the kitchen sink, as there isn’t one now. The water lines in place are thin tubing. Any suggestions on how to make a shutoff and protect my new cabinets? Any help is greatly appreciated. Reply Crystal Adkins July 8, 2015 Hi Monica!v Typically, you’ll just cut the hose in half and insert the shut-off valve directly into the line using the proper sized fittings and couplings on each side and then attaching them to the new valve. Worse case scenario is that you will need to replace the supply line – if you have PEX, you’ll have no problem. Let me know if you get stuck! Good Luck! Here’s a website that explains it in detail: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/replace-kitchen-sink-cutoff-valves-44485.html Reply Brenda July 16, 2015 Hi, very helpful advice. I have a 92 Horton and a terrible smell coming from tub drain. Started when we fixed the leaky faucet(replaced), so I figured that the drizzling water was keeping a leaky trap full and keeping smell out. My son looked underneath bathroom and said there’s no water dripping, and trap pipe looks good but a vent attached to it was mangled looking. It’s very hard to get to and he has back issues, so I’m calling a plumber I guess since I’m not SURE the vent thing is the problem..what do you think? (The smell is definitely coming from tub drain and yesterday I saw tiny flies in tub! Poured Clorox in and am keeping the water dripping til I can get a plumber in) Thanks Reply C.M July 20, 2015 I have a 1998 Dutchess Maufactured Home how to I fine to shut off the water, I have well water….thanks Reply Crystal Adkins July 27, 2015 Hello! You should have a shut off valve somewhere under your home directly under the exterior wall (so you don’t have to crawl under the home). Usually, it’s around the water hose connection (where you screw the water hose in) and close to wherever your water heater is in the home. Look around your back door. If you have skirting you’ll likely have a door or small opening so that you can reach it. Good luck! Reply Mary August 8, 2015 Hi Crystal, I have been reading your site and it’s very informative. You help so many people. We live in a Manufactured home, been living here 23 years. Our Kitchen sink quit draining we had a plumber come out and snake. Nothing worked. My husband bought a 50 ft power snake and tried it also. Did not work. He took the pipes apart under the sink and replaced them still nothing. We also went to Lowes and purchase pretty expensive drain cleaner, still nothing. Please help. Reply Crystal Adkins September 13, 2015 Hi Mary! I sent you an email. If you didn’t get it please let me know! Thanks so much for reading MHL! Reply Jan August 27, 2015 Hi Crystal, We are doing a major remodel on our master bath in out 1988 Fleetwood d/w mobile home. It has the grey pipes you are discussing in this article. The contractor did not think they needed replacing and they are close to closing the wall back up. Do we need to replace the pipes now?? Thanks so much!! Reply Crystal Adkins September 14, 2015 Hi Jan, If your plumber says they are fine I wouldn’t worry about it. Those pipe are still in use today in many homes, as long as you aren’t seeing any weaknesses in the couplings/joints you should be fine – that’s where the problems are and thankfully with manufactured homes there aren’t quite as many joints as in a site-built home. Thanks so much! Best of luck! Reply Crystal September 7, 2015 does anyone know a solution for why hot water would come out of the cold water in all sinks, showers, washing machine and toilets. I’ve drained the water heater twice with it off and had the pump unplugged without turning the water heater on. I plugged the pump back in. I had cold water for about 20 minutes then it came out steaming hot, still with the water heater turned off. Water heater does not have a check valve on it and I do not have any single lever faucets. For some crazy reason seems to possibly be coming into the house from the pump already hot. Reply Crystal Adkins September 14, 2015 Hi Crystal, Do you have cold water coming out of the hot? It sounds like your lines are crossed. Reply Crystal September 14, 2015 Thanks! Actually finally found out that my pump was over heating & causing hot water to pump into the house instead of cold. Replaced pump yesterday & finally got problem fixed! Crystal Adkins September 18, 2015 Awesome! So glad you got it straightened out! Chickie George September 13, 2015 HELLO Crystal, Have a 1984 Titan Double wide. Were on a well system in the county. I have good hot water pressure thought out my home. Poor to none cold water to the wash machine, both toilets don’t fill up, tub and showers poor to no cold water, sinks have good hot water but poor cold water pressure. Its seems like a clogged pipes? Can I just by pass what I have and run new pipes inside the house. Along the ceiling and cover it with crown molding? Any suggestions or advise to help me. Also do I have to place filter system to pipes to catch any deposits. Thank you Reply Crystal Adkins September 14, 2015 Hi Chickie, You can but I wouldn’t advise putting it along the ceiling. Running it under your home along the vents is preferable, you’d just stub at each point of use (sink, tub, toilets). This removes the possibility of leaks ruining wood and allows the vents to keep the lines from freezing. Good luck! Reply Leave a Reply Cancel Reply Your email address will not be published. Name* Email* Website Comment Notify me of follow-up comments by email. 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