Skip to content Skip to footer

How to Paint Vinyl Walls in a Mobile Home (and Remove the Battens)

Painting vinyl walls in a mobile home is time-consuming and frustrating because of the shiny surface and those blasted battens covering the seams.

Older mobile homes usually have faux wood paneling, so they aren’t as frustrating to paint. But manufactured homes built after the early eighties tend to have walls made from panels of pressed gypsum with a glossy surface on one side. The glossy surface is usually made from paper or vinyl.

Vinyl on gypsum (VOG) panels are used in mobile homes because it repels water, are affordable, and are super easy to install. This coating, however, makes painting vinyl walls in mobile homes difficult.

In this article, we’ll cover the most popular options to update and paint vinyl walls in mobile homes. If your mobile home has wood paneling, you’ll want to read our guide to wood paneling in mobile homes. 

What are VOG wall panels and why are they used in mobile homes? 

VOG stands for Vinyl on Gypsum (or vinyl over gypsum). Gypsum is calcium sulfate dihydrate, a soft and lightweight white or gray chalk-like mineral.

Vinyl on gypsum panels is typically  5/16″ thick with a glossy paper coating. They do not have tapered edges, so installers use battens, or strips, to cover the seams where two panels meet. These battens are notorious within the mobile home world – most homeowners dislike them immensely.

VOG panels are used because they are lightweight, water resistant, easy to install, clean, and maintain.

Below you can see low-gloss vinyl wallboards used in a manufactured home bathroom:

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-vog panels in a mobile home - flowered pattern before paint
Image Source:

Fortunately, modern manufactured home builders are beginning to use different wall materials. It may still be made with gypsum, but the top coating doesn’t have the high gloss coating or the quickly outdated patterns.

You can learn more about gypsum panels used in manufactured housing at the Manufactured Housing Gypsum Construction Guide.

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-manufactured housing gypsum construction guide

The Most Important Step Before you paint vinyl walls in a mobile home

Painting is the easiest and cheapest method to update mobile home walls. A single color, as opposed to an outdated pattern, can update a room quickly.

Painting is especially easy if you leave the battens, or strips, that cover the seams alone and paint over them.

Here’s the same bathroom shown above after the room was painted a solid color:

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-vog mobile home walls after priming and painting
Image Source:

Guide to Painting Vinyl Walls in a Mobile Home 

Painting the vinyl-coated walls in a mobile home is a bit more difficult than most realize. The glossy paper coating on the walls requires more preparation than a standard sheetrock wall.

Fortunately, many mobile homeowners have painted their walls with great success and we’ve collected helpful advice and tips from them. Here’s the process they recommended:

Step 1: Wash the Walls 

Paint and primer will not stick to dirty walls.

Smoke from cooking, dander from pets, and airborne particles from the furnace and air conditioner naturally stick to walls so you need a detergent or non-abrasive cleaner to get the walls as clean as possible.

Every inch of the wall should be wiped with the cleaning agent, allowed to dry, and then wiped again. Repeat if necessary.

You want the primer and paint to bond to every part of the wall.

Step 2: Use High-Quality Primer and Paint

The suggestion we received most was to buy the highest quality paint and primer you can afford.

The paint industry continuously improves their recipes so chances are you will find a great primer and paint (or combination primer+paint) if you stick to the better-known brands. Ask your local home improvement store for the latest recommendation.

Unfortunately, better paint technology means higher prices so expect to spend at least $25.00 per gallon.

See the section below for top brand suggestions. 

Step 3: Use High-Quality Brushes and Rollers 

Using high-quality brushes and rollers is another popular recommendation from homeowners that have painted their mobile home walls successfully.

High-quality brushes and rollers transfer the paint to the walls better and give a more uniform finish which is exactly what you need.

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-priming your mobile home walls - 2 coats of killz primer over vog panel walls
Geneva at shares her process of priming and adding an orange peel texture to their mobile home walls. Click on the image to go to her blog.

Step 4: Use Several Light Coats

All painting professionals will tell you that it’s better to paint walls in several light coats instead of one or two heavy coats. This allows the paint to dry faster and the finish will be more uniform and smooth.

Above is an image of two light coats of Kilz Primer done by Geneva at

Additional Information that Can Help

Knowing which company manufactured your home’s VOG panels will help you determine their recommended paint and primer. Unfortunately, not all homeowners have access to that information so a little guessing is required.

CDS, a large VOG manufacturer, recommends an oil primer with two coats of alkyd or latex semi-gloss enamel paint:

  1.  Two coats of alkyd or latex semi-gloss enamel.
  2. Oil primer with a finish coat of oil paint or flat latex.
  3. Two coats of flat oil paint.

Other gypsum board manufacturers have released their own recommendations and tips:

  • Lower sheen paints bond better than gloss or semi-gloss paints.
  • An acrylic based primer should work well in most mobile homes.
  • Using a good quality primer helps minimize color and surface variations and provides a more uniform profile for any surface covering (source).
  • Apply a high-quality latex primer/sealer compatible with the finished product prior to decoration (source).
  • A good quality, white, latex drywall primer formulated with higher binder solids, applied undiluted, is typically specified for new gypsum board surfaces prior to the application of texture materials and latex wall paints. An alkali and moisture-resistant primer and a tinted enamel undercoat may be required under enamel paints. Consult with the finish paint manufacturer for specific recommendations (source).

Related: Create an Awesome Gallery Wall for Less Than $50!

Top Paint and Primer Recommendations for Vinyl Walls in Mobile Homes

Choosing which primer and paint (or combination product) to use on your mobile home walls is probably the trickiest part of the whole job. Go to 3 different paint stores and you will hear 3 different opinions.

Below is a list of products that have worked well on mobile home walls (they are listed in no particular order) based on bloggers and readers that have had great results when painting vinyl walls in mobile homes:

How to paint vinyl walls in a mobile home (and remove the battens)
Living room walls in a mobile home that has been painted.

Best Primers to Use on Mobile Home Walls:

  • Kilz Primer
  • Zinnser 123
  • Gliddin Gripper
  • Xium Uma
  • Valspar Bonding Primer

Best Paint Brands for Vinyl Walls in Mobile Homes

  • Behr Premium Plus Ultra
  • Glidden Performance Edge Fill + Prime + Paint
  • Sherwin Williams
Vinyl walls in mobile homes-painting mobile home walls and using new trim to cover the seams

Paint, Wainscoting, and New Trim

The owners from the image above painted the walls, added wainscoting on the lower third of the wall, and replaced the factory-installed battens with 1″ trim. This gives the space a whole new look without the hassle of removing the battens.

Removing Mobile Home Wall Battens 

Battens are used to cover the seam where two VOG wall panels meet. By installing battens the factory is able to build homes faster and cheaper.

Unlike drywall or sheetrock, VOG panels do not require taping and mudding so the edges of the panels are not tapered and the installation process is much faster. This is ideal in a fast-paced manufactured home factory. This is not ideal for homeowners that want a seamless wall.

You can remove the battens in your mobile home. Once the battens are removed you can paint, texture, or wallpaper over the walls.

Removing the battens is the easy part, filling in the gaps that the battens were covering, and then making the entire wall look cohesive is the difficult part.

Related: Removing Walls in a Mobile Home

Using Caulk to Fill in the Seams

Use an acrylic caulk to fill in the gap or crack between your VOG wall panels. Remember, the panels do not have tapered seams like a sheet of drywall or sheetrock so filling in the gap smoothly and evenly can be difficult.

Here’s the process we recommend for using caulk to fill in the seams of vinyl walls in mobile homes:

Removing the Battens from Vinyl Walls in Mobile Homes

You’ll want to be careful when you remove the battens or strips that cover the seams between two VOG panels. A small thin pry bar that will fit under the strip

Here is a video that shows a man removing the strips that cover the seams of two modern VOG panels used in a manufactured home:

How to paint vinyl walls in a mobile home (and remove the battens)
Jenny painted her mobile home walls.

Prime the Wall

Prime the wall and ensure an even coat has been applied in the gap that the batten used to cover. Let dry. Repeat if necessary.

Fill in the Gap with Caulk and Smooth

Choose the caulk most suitable for your walls. Use the charts below to choose the best caulk. 

Place an even bead of caulk in the gap to fill in the crack (you’ll need to work quickly at this point).

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-caulking wall cracks and gaps

Using a wet finger, or smooth caulking tool, run along the gap to create an even bridge of caulk between the two VOG panels.

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-spreading the caulk out - updating mobile home walls

Use a straight-edged tool such as a credit card to smooth the caulk so that it creates an even surface across the wall. This process may require a few attempts to get enough caulk into the gap. Carefully remove any excess caulk from the wall with a wet rag.

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-using a wet rag to even caulk out

Allow to dry and ensure there is no shrinkage (choosing the correct caulk is important to keep the caulk from shrinking). Paint, texturize, or cover the wall with wallpaper, fabric, bead-board, shiplap – just about anything can be used to update mobile home walls as long as the framing can handle the weight.

David Jordan removed the battens and taped and mudded his mobile home walls and the results are fantastic:

Mudding walls to remove battens from mobile home walls david jordan fbg00002
David Jordan’s walls after removing the battens.

How to Choose the Right Caulk

The two main types of caulk are silicon and latex but there are some caulks that are a combination of both.

The Home Depot has a handy rundown of each type of caulk below:

Use Latex Caulk For:

  • Use to fill in gaps between crown molding and baseboards.
  • Use to seal a door frame in place and seal the subfloor at the bottom of a door frame.
  • For the inside of both doors and windows, use latex painter’s caulk.
  • Repeated exposure to water can speed up the breakdown of latex caulk over time, rendering it weak, brittle and ineffective.

Use Silicon Caulk For:

  • Around sinks, tubs, and showers. The silicone acts as a water and moisture repellant.
  • When installing bath fixtures to seal gaps between shower tiles, between sinks and counters, and around the base of the toilet.
  • Outdoors in areas exposed to direct sunlight or rain as the silicone helps the caulk last longer.
  • If you have an older home, sealing around the foundation to prevent air from entering where siding overlaps the foundation. You should also fill and seal all exterior areas where different materials meet, such as around windows and doors.
  • Normally used around the full perimeter of windows to help seal the window to the header, sill, jack stud and jamb.
  • Paintable silicone caulk can be used around the outside of window units to properly seal the window and the siding edge, or around the entire door unit.

Using Drywall Tape and Compound to Remove the Battens from Vinyl Walls in Mobile Homes

You can also use drywall compound instead of caulk, or if you want to take it even further, you can tape and mud the gap between the two panels.

Admittedly, it is difficult to get the tape even and it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to get the seam perfect since your VOG panels do not have tapered edges like drywall or Sheetrock. Still, if you’re more comfortable with drywall compound and tape it can be used to fill in the gaps.

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-taping a wall crack - updating a mobile home wall

You’ll still want to primer the wall and the seam between the VOG panels.  Tape and mud as you would sheetrock.

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-covering the tape with mud
Vinyl walls in mobile homes-skimming excess mud - updating mobile home walls

Lastly, you will need to lightly sand the compound to create an even surface. Paint, texturize, or wallpaper for a finished look.

Check out this video for more tips on how to paint those vinyl walls in your mobile home:

Adding a Texture to Vinyl Walls in Mobile Homes

Adding texture to your mobile home walls is a great method of updating your mobile home walls.

Drywall compound is used most often to add texture because it’s affordable, easy to get, easy to work with, and easy to clean.

You’ll still want to use a primer on your walls before you apply the texture to get the proper bond. Once the primer is dry you can begin adding your texture to the wall.

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-texture walls using stencil

You can go with simple textures such as the ‘stucco’ look, the sand or orange peel, or complex textures. You can even use stencils to create raised textures:

Adding Orange Peel Texture to your Mobile Home Walls

One of our favorite websites, My Hearts Song, shares a step-by-step article about how they removed the strips and added an orange peel texture to their vinyl walls.

If removing the strips is your main priority and you want to texture your walls lightly, then you’ll definitely want to check it out. Geneva, the owner, has a great question and answer section, too.

Related: 11 Cheap DIY Wall Decor Ideas

Covering Vinyl Walls in Mobile Homes with Wallpaper

You can give your mobile home walls a whole new look by removing the strips (battens) and hanging wallpaper.

If using wallpaper, you will want to make sure the paper is thick enough for your needs.

Paintable wallpaper is easy to hang but it needs to be thick enough to withstand the wet paint and keep the paper from showing the gap made by removing the battens. Of course, you can always fill the seam in with caulk or drywall compound (see below).

Vinyl walls in mobile homes-my mobile home makeover - wallpaper over mobile home walls
Image Source: shares their experience wallpapering their vinyl walls. You can read the article here. The article mentions one issue they encountered when wallpapering their bathroom:

“In a bathroom we redid, we used only the wall repair wallpaper and painted it when we were done. This worked fairly well, but in some spots you can still tell there is an empty strip below the paper.”

Wood Paneling in Mobile Homes

My 1978 mobile home had faux wood paneling throughout the home but it was super easy to paint thankfully.

Two coats and I was done. However, I kept the paneling original with the lines or grooves. You don’t have to keep those, though. You can fill them in with spackle and then paint over them. Rachel Ray had a segment on her show that shows you how:

It is not easy to hang wallpaper with intricate patterns, especially on vinyl walls in mobile homes, so try to find a solid or simple pattern that can be matched easily.

This Old House has a great tutorial for hanging wallpaper here.

Related: Using Accent Walls in Your Mobile Home


Many people have painted, textured, and papered their vinyl walls in mobile homes and you can, too!

The trick is to get the best bond possible and that’s made possible by cleaning the walls well and using a good primer.

As always, thank you so much for reading Mobile Home Living!


  • Vicki
    Posted July 6, 2023 at 9:51 pm

    I have spackled nail holes and damaged areas with vinyl spackle. Of course it does not have the same texture as the VOG board. Will primer help keep those areas from showing or should I be doing something different? Thank you.

  • Wendy E Kovin
    Posted January 24, 2023 at 4:06 pm

    I used “wall liner” wallpaper on all of the walls I painted or papered and it worked great! I filled in the gaps with caulk or spackle first and then I hung the liner horizontally. If the wall was in really bad shape I’d hang another layer of liner vertically. Besides evening out the walls and covering any problems, the liner made painting and papering a breeze. The liner is thicker and seems to have a better adhesive to it than regular wallpaper and it really helps in areas where the where the top paper of the gypsum board has torn away and where the gypsum is crumbling. I also use the liner on paneling. I just fill in the seams and the black, recessed areas with caulk and then hang the liner. So much easier to paint and paper!

  • Cher
    Posted August 19, 2022 at 2:18 pm

    First thank you for this article.!!!!!! I knew what I had because these were the exact same thing my aunt and uncle had in their single wide in the 80’s but I had no idea what to do about it. However, I actually have a stick built (well it’s a late 1800’s kit house) house with this stuff in it. These were used in one of the homes many remodeles I’m guessing from the “style” of the wallpaper late 1980’s. My question is I have faux vinyl tile panels in my bathroom It looks horrible. I need to replace the vanity because of some major H2O damage and figure it will be the best time to do something about the “tiles” the tub has real tiles probable from the original 1948 when they got indoor plumbing and added the bathroom it’s self. It’s really nice and I don’t want to damage it. I’m afraid of what is under the panels. Have you seen these before???? Can you paint over them??? Could I plaster over them. I’m afraid if I just take them out that I’ll damage the tile around the tub. HELP!!!

  • Mary Krogmann
    Posted November 16, 2021 at 11:46 am

    The first thing I (we) did was paint, paint, and paint some more. over all the walls & paneling. We also removed the divider walls and turned it into an open concept. I chose a very light gray semi gloss. The wainscoting was the hardest to cover, but it can be done! All the gaps were calked also. I don’t care for the battons either, but once everything was painted I stopped focusing on them. I purchased new light fixtures including having three new pendant lights for a long island in the center of my kitchen. We ripped out the entire kitchen and remodeled it. My husband is a cabinet maker so he made all the additional cabinets, pantry, & a new closet/utility also. I antiqued all the cabinets using a hammering and wood-gouging technique, followed by a multi-layering of paint technique. (It took awhile for that) He tiled the backsplash and that whole ledge behind the kitchen sink all with tiny copper colored mosaic. We also used Hog wire fencing that he cut to the correct size, as pot holder grid on the side of the pantry, two grids underneath each side of the stove cabinets where I hang utensils, coffee cups and pots. Then we took out all of the flooring in the entire mobile home. We laid bamboo flooring in the bathroom, but in the rest of the home we laid vinyl flooring that we bought from Home Depot. We also replaced both front and back doors with an inner all-glass panels with the mini blind inside the door and the front storm door has a pull down built-in screen. These doors are so fantastic because they allow so much needed light in the home. We recently replaced the two laundry area cabinets with corner ones that are way more efficient, easier to reach, and much larger. He hasn’t made the cabinet doors yet, as I am thinking about just putting an open frame door that I can inter change quilt panels into. We’ve been here for six years and it’s been an on going process, but it’s more fun now because the necessary things are done. Your information is so fantastic and helpful to all who live in mobile homes. Too bad I didn’t have your website at the time we moved in!! If you just take one step at a time, you can turn your out-dated mobile home into a modern beauty!

  • Pi
    Posted September 2, 2019 at 7:12 am

    Thank you so much for the information! I am getting ready to paint the bathroom in an older park model. I love your articles and am wondering if you could add a section for park models?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted September 14, 2019 at 4:13 pm

      Hi PJ,

      I LOVE park models and have shared a few over the years. Here are all the articles on park models. Id love to find park models to feature (hint, hint)…lol

      • Tammy
        Posted March 8, 2021 at 7:40 pm

        Great website. In the words of Arnold, “I’ll be back!”
        Many questions coming your knowledgeable way.
        Talk soon.

    • Rhonda
      Posted July 25, 2020 at 5:31 pm

      I am living in a 1998 jaguar double wide manufacturered home made by general. Most of the home is open area. In the front Center is a straight lined kitchen with cabinets on both sides . The front cabinet side is the exterior wall , the inner cabinet wall has a pantry with that wall as the marriage wall. I needed a organized pantry so I emptied everything & took out the 7 ft. Closet maid shelf that was trying to fall off on one end. I need shelf space. My son is a framer & knows enough to do the job but is not an expert to know & this is why I am asking.
      If he anchors a 2×2 or a 2×4 horizontal to the 2×4 along the top & bottom. Then ran 2×2’s or 2×4 ‘s vertically along the wall studs & fixed it correctly to have 4 to 5 wooden shelves for storage. Would the wall be able to support the weight with some weight on them . Thanks

  • Theresa
    Posted September 1, 2019 at 9:04 am

    My kitchen cabinets are starting to swell along the bottoms and edges. Not the doors,just the framework they are attached to.
    How can I repair them before they get any worse? It’s paper covered. The doors themselves are solid,but thin wood. 2002 Clayton dreamhome. Thank you!

  • Shannon
    Posted July 6, 2019 at 5:21 pm

    OH my gosh!! I though I was the ONLY ONE!! that despised these battens. My husband can’t understand it , “what’s wrong with them?” he says…. (must be a man thing). They make me crazy when I look at them. The previous owners of our mobile home tried to remove some in the master bathroom and made a heck of a mess. My husband tried filling and sanding, and, I primed and painted, and, still a mess. We are now finally starting the reno is this bathroom and I am soooo happy that I found this article!! THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! I love this website, and, thank you Crystal from the bottom of my heart, for taking the time to put this “magazine” together. Such an inspiration and blessing for me as I want to do things right the first time as time and money are not plenty in this household.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted July 22, 2019 at 5:22 pm

      Thank you, Shannon! So glad you like my little blog! Filling in those seams are a pain because they aren’t beveled like regular drywall. Practice behind furniture first to see what combination works best for you. Or just paint them, they really do blend in fairly well with matte paint.

      Best of luck!

  • Jenn
    Posted December 1, 2018 at 9:30 pm

    I love how the wainscotting looks white…we are installing new darker wood LVT floors throughout our living room area where there is wood colored wainscotting( a lighter wood than the floors will be) Can I paint the wainscotting in our mobile home? it’s original, came with the house as far as I can tell. But I think the 2 different wood colors will clash,a nd the white would help brighten things up against the dark floors.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted December 10, 2018 at 3:12 pm

      Hi Jenn,

      You absolutely can paint the wainscotting but you’ll need to figure out if it’s made from wood or an engineered wood or laminated product to know what kind of paint to use. The new paint out these days are so high quality it won’t be hard to find one that works well for just about any material. Best of luck!

  • Saw
    Posted June 17, 2018 at 10:09 pm

    Looking at buying a foreclosed manufactured home, my question is: what paint and primer do I use over the gypsum panels? I am 19 and trying to put a lot of work to rehab the house.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted June 18, 2018 at 11:37 am


      You can find some great recommendations in the article above. Congratulations and best of luck!

  • Ann
    Posted June 5, 2018 at 2:16 pm

    Hello, Has anyone used sand and paint to texture the exterior of their mobile home. I have wavie aluminum siding with lots of dings and it looks terrible. Any ideas would be appreciated.. thanks ahead…

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 28, 2018 at 3:06 pm

      Hi Ann,

      I am not at all familiar with sand paint but we painted our metal siding on our 1978 single wide and the matte tan that we used did a great job of concealing the dings and scratches it had. I hope a siding/painting expert sees your comment and chimes in…I am very interested in learning more about texturing paint with sand.

      Sorry I can’t be more help – Best of luck!

  • Cathey
    Posted May 28, 2018 at 4:55 am

    has anyone ever replaced their ceilings with Bead board? I know it’s heavy, but so attractive for that country look. Am hoping someone has an answer. I have 1972 16′ x 70′ (Marlette) and I’d like to give it a facelift. Thank you for any input you folks might have. Thank you.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 28, 2018 at 3:25 pm

      Hi Cathey,

      I know I’ve answered this comment before but my commenting system in on the fritz so I’m answering it again, sorry. You should have received an email with my first answer. Beadboard panels work well in bathrooms and that’s exactly what we plan on doing in our bathroom. You’ll need to know where your framing is and so you can get your seams to lay directly over them (it will be tricky if you don’t have the necessary framing but still doable). You’ll also want to use ceiling molding as an edge for the ceiling to lay on around the perimeter of the room.

      Best of luck!

    • Georgia
      Posted August 26, 2019 at 12:34 pm

      Try a beadboard patterned textured wallpaper on a smooth ceiling surface for the look of beadboard without the weight. Many are paintable, so you can customize it to your decor.

      Posted September 28, 2019 at 3:43 pm

      Somewhere I read about using bead board to cover popcorn ceilings.

  • Patricia D.
    Posted May 23, 2018 at 12:14 pm

    I love this site and all of the helpful information. Some great comments here too. Thanks!

  • Patricia D.
    Posted May 23, 2018 at 12:13 pm

    LOL. I’ll never paint again without thinking of the rooster. :) Great info. Thanks!

  • Fay
    Posted May 12, 2018 at 9:59 am


    I didn’t see any article related to a saggy ceiling in a 1970s era double wide. Do I strip it down (I want to go to drywall if possible on ceiling and walls) Is it likely to be a structural problem or evidence of an old water leak? There is no current water leak or staining but the home was repainted recently so its possible any staining was hidden.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted May 21, 2018 at 11:40 am

      Hi Fay,

      Sagging ceilings are usually a sign of dampness or leaks from your roof so you’ll want to make sure you find out what caused the sag before you replace the ceiling itself. It may not be a leak, it could be condensation caused by over insulating or poor circulation (vent covered). You’ll be able to see what’s going on better once you remove the old ceiling. I would imagine if it was a structural issue you would have more signs. If it’s sagging at the seam it may just be a loose nail (or screw).

      It’s really hard to find full-length ceiling panels like the builders use so sheetrock is probably your best choice since you can remove the seams. You will probably want to hire a pro to do it and that can get expensive. They have special tools that can make the job easier. Of course, you can rent those tools if you are a DIYer.

      I would love to get some photos from you as the job progresses. I need to write an article on this but without images it’s hard to do. Best of luck! My email is if you need to contact me directly for anything. Best of luck!

  • jackie
    Posted April 8, 2018 at 2:11 pm

    how do i fill holes in my paneled bathroom walls. I want to change wall fixtures

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 28, 2018 at 1:16 pm

      Hi Jackie,

      You’ll use DAT spackling (I call it spackling but apparently it’s called different things across the nation). There are several kinds so you’ll want to find the one that is a close match to color for your paneling since you won’t be painting (I assume?). Lowe’s has small tubes and large tubs and it doesn’t cost much at all. For small holes in white walls, I’ve used toothpaste.
      Best of luck!

  • Sherri
    Posted January 21, 2018 at 9:16 am

    I recently purchased a 1970 double wide mobile in which the previous owner applied wallpaper directly to the VOG wallboard. The wallpaper is coming loose at the seams and I would like to remove it and paint the walls. In trying to remove the wallpaper, some of the original covering on the walls is coming off. Before I go any further, can someone advise the best way to remove this wallpaper without damaging what is underneath? Thanks so much for any halp you can give!

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted February 16, 2018 at 1:11 pm

      Hi Sherri,

      They used some really good paste and it’s sticking to that top coat of laminate on the wall. That laminate is basically just paper itself and it’s pretty important as it ‘holds’ the gypsum together and acts as a water barrier. I’m kinda at a loss here, I want to say a bit of steam may work to loosen the wallpaper from the laminate but you would need to be careful so the gypsum didn’t get wet. The wallpaper paste remover in a can may work, too.

      A few areas of the laminate coming off may not be too much of an issue with a really good primer (Kilz). Otherwise, the paint may soak into the gypsum and make it look a bit different from the rest of the wall. It may be best to just leave the wallpaper and paint over that – this is not ideal, but if the damage to the wall is going to be too much you have three options, remove the panel and install sheetrock, paint over the wallpaper, or use some kind of texture over the wall to cover and blend in the areas the wallpaper has damaged.

      Best of luck – let me know how it goes!

      • Cher
        Posted August 19, 2022 at 1:56 pm

        I know the original post was 4yrs ago, but for future readers this might help. Where the wallpaper is coming up seal it back down. Then paint over the wallpaper I’m just using the same technique they have here. Other wise you’ll end up having to basically plaster the whole wall or paneling it to protect the gypsum. Work smarter not harder?

  • Grace
    Posted January 17, 2018 at 11:40 am

    Thanks for this informative article. Like most I hate my vinyl walls in my 2015 home, especially the “accent” walls. This stuff makes teflon look like a sissy. I can’t stick anything to it. Picturing a puddle of paint on the floor along each wall. Looking at all the steps to paint I have to wonder if it might just be easier to just replace the wallboard with plain old pre-primed sheetrock and put 2 coats of paint instead of 5. Why do they do this? I mean, why not just set them up with primed plain walls and let folks paint? (let’s not ever start on the battens – ugh)

    • Mary
      Posted November 16, 2021 at 12:47 pm

      Sheetrock adds too much weight….it’s a mobile home that gets transported. BTW, home owners insurance does not cover your mobile home while it’s in transit.

  • Post Author
    Crystal Adkins
    Posted October 31, 2017 at 11:03 am

    Hi Sarah,

    Usually you can, just make sure to use the right backer board and don’t choose really heavy tile.

  • Debbie Webb
    Posted October 29, 2017 at 3:07 pm

    Hi , we have a 1996 double wide 4 bedroom and the one bedroom someone used cheap paint over the wallpaper and the paint peeled off in some areas along with the wall paper living the walls uneven in those areas the room is kind of big I wondered how do I smooth out those areas , do I use spackle to fill it and sand it down flat ? Its only a few small areas to do ..any ideas ??

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 29, 2017 at 4:57 pm

      Hi Debbie,

      Glue is what I always used when the wallpaper curled on me. Spray glue is especially handy for those hard to reach corners.

      best of luck!

  • Sharon
    Posted October 28, 2017 at 3:40 am

    I know this is an old thread put I live in a small double wide, I would like to take our a THIN wall between my kitchen and family room, for that open concept. I will remove a bar and add an island. Scrap the popcorn ceiling, and new floors, new cabinets, rock on top of cabinets. new appliances. Put in new bath rooms, change all of the floors paint it and then once it is dressed and ready I plan on putting it up for sale This was suppose to be a temp home, well life got in the way. But it is time. It is loved in and lived in. I thought now was the time to add all of those special touches. What do you think?\

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 29, 2017 at 5:00 pm

      Hi Sharon,

      Sounds like you are about to be living in a gorgeous home! You need to plan well so you aren’t in a perpetual construction zone (trust me!). Take lots of images so we can feature it when you are all finished.

  • Mark
    Posted October 14, 2017 at 7:36 am

    Gary – Perfect advice! I would only add: Buy a “best” roller cover. Cheap covers can leave roller fuzz all over a wall – and it will show. On the other hand, a good quality REAL sheepskin roller will hold a good amount of paint, and leave a nice finish on the wall. Finally, match the roller to the type of paint. Some are latex and oil – while others are specific to latex or oil paints.

  • Tisha
    Posted September 22, 2017 at 1:13 am

    I don’t know what to use to clean the walls. It’s a 2005 mobile & walls are filthy. It really doesn’t look like vinyl. When I tried to clean, walls started crumbling! I really don’t want to prime & paint over dirty walls. What to do?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted September 22, 2017 at 2:57 pm

      Hi Tisha,

      It kinda sounds like someone tried to peel the vinyl coating off the walls which left you with just the gypsum. That would explain the crumbling. Gypsum alone doesn’t stand up to water at all (and it won’t take paint well). If this is the case, I’d probably go with a good wallpaper. If the walls are just old and only crumbling in corners where the vinyl overlay may have peeled you can still prime and paint the wall but you may want to add a thin coating of drywall mud in the areas that are crumbling.

      Usually, Pine-Sol or Dawn in a gallon of warm water is what I use to clean the walls.

      Best of luck. Let me know how it goes.

    • Mark
      Posted October 14, 2017 at 7:28 am

      The best cleaner I have ever used for walls that are to be painted is TSP (tri-sodium-phosphate). It’s available at pretty much any of the big box stores in their painting depts. Don’t forget the rubber gloves!

      As for the walls crumbling – use a good oil base primer (I HIGHLY recommend XIM available at Sherwin Williams) to seal the gypsum. The XIM is quite forgiving and can seal over most contaminants as long as the surface isn’t obliterated with crud.
      Once the sealed area has dried, you’re good to go.

      NOTE! XIM should be applied in a VERY well vented area.

  • Thelma
    Posted September 1, 2017 at 9:38 pm

    As I said in another comment mine is a fixer upper some of the walls are beyond paint. I’ve done a mixture in the bathroom of paint white bead board and quarter inch plywood. I thought I would paint the wood the grain in it looks nice so decided to clear coat it. The living room planing to do a faux ship lap.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted September 3, 2017 at 2:20 pm

      Hi Thelma,

      I love the look of bead board. I’m always looking for home remodels to share on the site. I would love to see how you did the plywood with stain. I’ve noticed that’s a big trend in home design. I bet it looks great!

      If you would let me share your projects please email me at Thanks so much!

  • Phatkhat
    Posted July 5, 2017 at 11:49 am

    We have a 1995 double, and it has the ugliest wallboards you ever saw. I redid a small room using Kilz and a quality Glidden paint. After 3-4 coats of Kilz and 2 coats of paint, you could still see the pattern. Ugh. Another two coats fixed it. NOW, however, I have found Nirvana!! Behr Marquee paint will cover the pattern in ONE coat, and with the second coat, a flawless, gorgeous appearance emerges. Yeah, it’s $40+ a gallon at the Orange Place, but it is worth every penny in the ease of application – NO spatter – and the reduction of the frustration index. You can buy a small jar for under $5, and they will tint it to the color you desire. It will almost cover one 4 ft. section of wall so you can try before you buy the whole gallon.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted July 6, 2017 at 3:26 pm

      Thanks for the tip! Usually, 2-3 light coats of paint will cover near anything (especially with Kilz). These new paints are amazing – you really get what you pay for!

      Thanks for reading MHL!

  • Sue Taylor
    Posted June 24, 2017 at 10:48 am


    Thank you for all the mobile home decorating tips. One problem that I am having is that the paper around my bathroom skylights is coming loose/off. It just looks like some cheap cream colored wallpaper stuff. I am wondering where I get the stuff that looks like wood (like on our home doors), that I can replace/use instead of that? My kitchen skylite has it around there and it matches the rest of the faux wood looking stuff throughout my house. Please help if you can.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted July 19, 2017 at 1:35 pm

      Hi Sue!

      Skylights are awesome but they do tend to need extra repairs over time. As long as you aren’t removing the seal used (or at least replace it or add to it) you should be able to change just about everything around the window without any issues. I’d remove a small section of trim and see what it looks like behind it. It may be a great time to give it a whole new look and make it even stronger against water.

      best of luck!

  • Zach
    Posted June 21, 2017 at 10:29 am

    Hi Crystal,

    Great site! It has been a huge resource as my wife and I just bought a foreclosed 1997 manufactured home (our first) and have started the process of updating/renovating. I do have a couple quick questions on the VOG walls, if you’d indulge me. It looks like the previous owner (or maybe the bank?) went through the process of painting over the ugly vinyl wallpaper print. Its better, but not great, so we intend to repaint. Since there is already paint on the walls, do we need to sand? prime? sand & prime? – Or – Would we be OK just painting over the existing paint. Also, there is a medium sized hole in the living room. In your experience, will drywall patch and joint compound be OK to repair this before painting?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted June 23, 2017 at 1:41 pm

      Hi Zach,

      I would probably use a good paint with primer in it. That will give you some good adhesion and coverage without requiring another coat. Hopefully, the painter cleaned the walls well before they painted. If they didn’t you can sometimes just peel the paint right off the walls (it’s kinda fun to do).

      Since you are painting and don’t have to worry about the pattern on the walls, you can use a patch kit. Sometimes, the mesh in the kits aren’t the best fit (or size) so don’t worry if you find you need a tighter mesh to make the transition smoother. It’s just a difference in the paneling.

      Best of luck!

  • Post Author
    Crystal Adkins
    Posted May 26, 2017 at 1:07 pm

    Hi Curtis,
    I wish I knew of a reliable supply for those printed tapes. I’ve only seen one place have them on hand and that was a supply house in NC that was real close to a builder (I assumed they bought unused stock from the builders). I haven’t seen any since unfortunately. Sorry!

  • Terry Giesbrecht
    Posted April 23, 2017 at 12:18 am

    Hi, super site here, I’ve learned a lot here and realize I’m in for more work than anticipated. We purchased a foreclosed manufactured home, 1997 Redman. The interior has been badly damaged, ripped out wiring, furnace, AC, water heater and all appliances. The interior needs a total rework, drywall repair and paint is my concern for now. Wondering if there are any drawbacks to spray painting the ceiling and walls after proper prep work described on your site? Many thanks,

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted April 28, 2017 at 2:53 pm

      There shouldn’t be. That’s how they paint ceilings and walls professionally. Of course, you won’t be using cans of spray paint, but a paint gun.

  • Jesse W.
    Posted March 22, 2017 at 12:26 pm


    I would love your help! We have a 2015 Clayton Home. We bought it brand new. Very nice home!!! All walls are drywall, except the bedrooms. and I hate that! So, I am starting room by room, to slowly get rid of those horrible panel strips. I was reading through your blog, and immediately got overwhelmed! Would you mind helping me with step by step instructions and give me some inspiration. Aside from making the walls LOOK better (paint) is there anyway to make them FEEL better (make them more sturdy and not feel so cheap and thin and echoy?)

    I would sooooo appreciate your help/advice!!! Thank you!

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted March 27, 2017 at 11:45 am

      Hi Jesse!

      You should look into adding beadboard or wainscoting to your walls to beef them up (other than adding bigger studs you’re limited to bulking them up with additional paneling and that can get complicated but installing it on the bottom third isn’t too big a job). Paintable wallpaper is another favorite of mine to get rid of the strips (fill them in with caulk or mud so the seam isn’t as noticeable). Use the thickest you can find.

      Best of luck!

  • Mary Margaret Connolly
    Posted February 25, 2017 at 8:49 pm

    Sure wish I had found this thread a few months ago. I tried to paint over some faux wood wainscotting and window reveals of my 1988 Shutz. I scrubbed and then primed but didn’t use the right primer. The paint scratched off with the slightest touch.

    I ended up having to strip off all of the fresh paint and starting over with the correct primer. Yeach! What a waste of time and money. (I’ll let you know what products I used at a later date. Recoverin from a hip replacement right now.)

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted March 2, 2017 at 3:36 pm

      Good to hear you are recovering Mary Margeret! I did the same thing when I tried to paint the trim around the top of the bathroom. I thought it was wood but nope, it was some kind of plastic composite. It scratched right off, too!

      Hope you heal quickly!

      • Jen L
        Posted September 28, 2017 at 11:57 pm

        when you say trim at the top of your bathroom, so you mean the flat fake trim they outline the rooms with including the ceiling which is like a contact paper stiff over fake wood strips?

      • Post Author
        Crystal Adkins
        Posted September 29, 2017 at 1:25 pm

        Yes, ma’am!

  • Grama Sam
    Posted January 2, 2017 at 8:46 pm

    You know I was amazed not to find any information on painting the cabinets. I have a C Class Jamboree and the cabinets have a vinyl paper over particle board. Is this the same as the VOG you have mentioned on the walls?
    Also I am wondering since the cabinets are this type of product is spray painting would be better?
    BTW amazing blog I have wanted to remodel the rig for two years but could not find enough info to give me the confidence I needed to get started. Thanks so much for your time and talent.
    Looking forward to your reply.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted January 2, 2017 at 10:56 pm

      Hi Grama,

      Yes, the information in this article is relevant to the particle board cabinetry since they have coated paper. Clean the cabinets very well, prime with a high quality primer and use a good paint.

      If you have access to a spray gun you should absolutely use it. Light coats are the trick.

      Pam shared some great information about painting her cabinets in this article:

      Best of luck!!

  • Gabrielle
    Posted November 11, 2016 at 4:06 pm

    I have very little spare time and next to no patience for projects. Yes, this is a huge flaw. I have a 2004 double wide and I have to admit I am fed up with the horrible walls. Has anyone tried some of these newer peel and stick wallpapers? They seem slightly thicker than regular and I am hoping they are something I can just put up over the horrible pattern.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted November 12, 2016 at 12:23 pm

      Hi Gabrielle,

      I’m a big fan of the peel and stick wallpaper and tile. The one thing I have learned is you should spend the extra money to get the name brand and not the generic store brand. The glue is a lot better. I’ve even used reversible peel and stick shelf liner on a wall and it worked well. If you want to leave the battens up you will want to use the thickest stuff you can find (and even then it will be noticeable). If you can remove the battens and store them safely that would work well.

      Best of luck!

  • Judy Reitz
    Posted November 6, 2016 at 10:18 am

    I have an older mobile home where I replaced all the windows with high efficiency windows but now there are mold/mildew stains below the window where the battens are. Because I didn’t want to paint every room in the house, I’ve tried cleaning the stains with every cleaning product I’ve read about i.e. bleach, borax, baking soda, ammonia, etc but nothing has penetrated the vinyl coating of the walls. Do you know of any other option to remove the stains or is painting the walls my only option?

    Thanks in advance for any advice as well as how to paint and what to use in case that’s the only option left.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted November 12, 2016 at 12:58 pm

      I would try an industrial strength mold/mildew remover (what the professional power washers use in the gallon jugs) but if that doesn’t work (or you’ve already tried it) you’ll probably want to use Killz primer and then paint over it. If it’s a lot of mildew or mold you may even want to go a step further and replace the paneling – it can be very harmful.

      Best of luck! Let us know how it goes!

  • Susan
    Posted October 20, 2016 at 4:07 pm

    I am remodeling a double wide. The previous tenant painted over the VOG with a thin layer of paint. It has scratches and needs to be removed. I tried to Kilz over the paint but it makes it peel worse. Is there an easier way to remove the paint besides just scraping it off?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 22, 2016 at 2:38 pm

      Hi Susan,

      I’d say your best bet is to peel and use a very fine steel wool to get the rest off but you don’t want to tear that top layer of vinyl. You may be able to use a paint remover but I’d test run it to make sure it doesn’t eat the vinyl off. Had the previous owners cleaned the walls really well before they painted and used a primer/gripper this wouldn’t have happened.

      Best of luck! Let me know how it goes!

  • Post Author
    Crystal Adkins
    Posted October 11, 2016 at 5:05 pm

    Hi Dale,

    If I had to guess, I would say the moisture is what is causing the cracking. You have two options here and the location of the panels are going to be the main issue when making the decision. I saw your previous comment and you could install drywall over the VOG panels but you will need to take extra precaution (I don’t recommend it because it can hinder your ability to detect leaks – you will want to seal the edges and seams extremely well if you do this). You could rip out the original VOG and use the moisture barrier/sheetrock combo. It’s really up to you – installing new over old is likely a lot easier but easier doesn’t always equal correct.

    How you handle the transition from the shower surround to the new walls (if you install over the old) is going to be another issue you will need to consider. I can’t really tell you what to do but I suspect since you are researching you will make the right decision! Best of luck!

  • Karla Lopez
    Posted October 11, 2016 at 11:42 am

    I recently had to move into my parents triple-wide mobile home. It is very large and needs some serious updating. They had tile done years ago and it crossed the marriage line and there are a dozen or so that have cracked or come loose. I want to get rid of the tile and the carpet and put down laminated wood. Can I cross the marriage line with it and is there a certain way I should lay the planks? With the marriage line or the opposite? Also, I have to do something about the dark paneling. Should I just have it professionally painted or cover it with the paintable wallpaper?

  • Barbara
    Posted October 11, 2016 at 10:38 am

    Hello, first off; great site lots of helpful information, thank you for that, not many places that address mobile home repair. Secondly, I have a question about fixing holes, really big, half the wall holes in the vinyl coated kitchen and bathroom walls. I am trying to fix my mothers’ 1983 mobile home and it has a pantry where the washer and dryer are and the washer was leaking so the wall had to be opened up to find out where and now there is are holes to fix and I need to know how. Can I do a drywall patch or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated; I went to the big home supply stores and even though mobile homes are still being made, the gentleman there didn’t know what I was asking about when I said about the laminated walls. Thank you again. Sorry for the long post.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 13, 2016 at 5:00 pm

      Hi Barbara!

      You can use a patch but it’s probably going to be easier if you just replace the entire wall with sheet rock. You’ll cut the entire vinyl panel out carefully (as not to damage the trim, studs, or ceiling) and then cut your sheet rock to size and insert it behind the trim. If it’s a wall that is the width of the washer and dryer you can probably do the whole area with 2 sheets of sheet rock.

      If you want to patch instead find a piece of sheet rock that will fit into the hole and ‘tape’ it in with drywall tape. Getting the mud even with the rest of the wall will be a pain but you’ll get it close. You’ll want to prime the original wall first and then prime again after you patch and then paint.

      Best of luck! Take pics if you can – I’d love to share a step-by-step article on patching a wall or replacing a wall.

  • Dale Wohlfeil
    Posted October 10, 2016 at 5:13 pm

    Would it be a problem gluing 1/4 ” drywall over my vog board in my bathroom remodel. If so should I use liquid nails or some other type of glue.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 11, 2016 at 4:35 pm

      Hi Dale,

      I’m not a fan of adding a new panel over an original, especially in a kitchen or bath. It’s additional material that can be damaged by water (and hinder the ability to recognize a leak). If you do it, use the strongest adhesive you can and seal the edges especially well.

      Best of luck!

      • Dale Wohlfeil
        Posted October 24, 2016 at 11:05 am

        I will reply with photos as the job progresses. thank you Dale

      • Dale Wohlfeil
        Posted December 4, 2016 at 8:30 am

        I drywalled with 1/4″ wallboard over the VOG panels. I used 3×11 bullnosed tile around shower/tub enclosure. If i can figure out how to send pics I will. I also painted my wood faced vanity using liquid sandpaper to prepare for primer and paint. I had a vanity top custom made by ONYX. turned out very nice.

      • Post Author
        Crystal Adkins
        Posted December 4, 2016 at 8:27 pm

        Would love to see what you did Dale!

  • Chad
    Posted September 30, 2016 at 4:02 pm

    Also, instead of “sanding” the joint compound, use a damp sponge and gently feather the edges of the compound to make smooth. Will not hurt the VOG walls like sanding

  • Robynne Catheron
    Posted September 23, 2016 at 12:16 pm

    What fantastic information this is! Thank you for all the research you did to help your readers. I appreciate it very much; since I’m not a creative, talented or skilled craftsman by any stretch of the word.

    What do you recommend for those battens that are “H-” shaped? There are actually two flat strips (one behind the VOG, and the one you can see) connected in the middle. If you try to pull one out, it will tear out the panels on both sides of the gap. Am I stuck with the battens?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 11, 2016 at 5:42 pm

      Thanks so much for the kind words Robynne! Means a lot to me to get a great comment like yours!

      I’ve seen the battens that try to mimic wainscoting and I think those would look great if they were a little ‘beefier.’ Maybe cut out the spots where the vertical battens meet the horizontal to allow for a nice 2″ trim piece replacement for the horizontal battens. You could maybe use the caulk and paint trick mentioned above but you’d likely need to add a texture to make it all blend in. Otherwise, that would be pretty difficult to get it all to blend together and not look obvious.

      Thanks for reading MHL!

  • Brenda
    Posted September 1, 2016 at 3:28 am

    I’ve read this posting. I painted vinyl walls 12 years ago, primed with BIN. The panels gaps were not filled. There is a crack, not horrible, but I would like to try caulking the gaps. You recommend priming the walls first, paint, then caulk the gaps, correct? Do I then paint over the caulk? Can I press the caulk flat with a putty knife to fill the gap? I don’t think I can do the tape and mud technique. Thank you for your informative site.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted September 6, 2016 at 2:52 pm

      Hi Brenda,

      Yes, priming the gap first helps the caulk or mud to grip or attach better. You will use a knife or even a credit card to even out it all out and then paint over it. It’s very important that you chose the right caulk for the surface.
      Best of Luck!

  • Patty
    Posted August 29, 2016 at 2:17 pm

    Hi Crystal,

    Great Site!!
    We have a 1997 Chariot Eagle Park Model that has a room that is over 1/3 of the front deck; aka a small Florida room. I can’t find info in re of the wall material, but I’d sure like to do something with them. It seems to be a textured fiberglass/plastic panel they put up individually. We purchased it used, so i can’t find the installer to ask. Any advice of what can be done to these walls/material once I find out, would be greatly appreciated.

    We are working on giving the inside a new facelift and your site has helped abundantly. Greatly appreciated!!

  • Marti
    Posted August 27, 2016 at 11:10 am

    I have found the easy way of covering the screw holes and nail holes once they were removed, the vinyl was pushed outwards, I used a sharp pointed knife and pushed the bulging vinyl back into the hole and once it was smooth I dabbed caulking over the holes. Worked great, didn’t have to peel away the extruding vinyl.

  • Marti
    Posted August 27, 2016 at 11:06 am

    This site has given me tremendous information, remodeling our double wide home, removing all the strips and I caulked them with acrylic caulk, smoothed it out. We will mud over them. Also removed the cheap ceiling trim and will add crown moulding. Will be tricky due to cathedral ceilings, but it’ll all work out. And will add base board trim once the Pergo flooring is installed. But I come back to this saved site to continue to read great tips! We will replace the kitchen cabinets. But want to tile the floor and was told by someone that this isn’t a good idea as most mobile home floors are uneven. Another question, the vinyl floor seem to be tight on the floor would you recommend to remove the vinyl and not install over it?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted August 30, 2016 at 4:23 pm

      Hi Marti,

      In some cases, the vinyl flooring was installed before the walls were attached to the floor so you would need to either cut it out or install over. I like the idea of installing over it – every little bit of insulation you add to the home the better. You’d just need to follow installation instructions for whatever material you want to lay down.

      Best of luck!

  • Annberly
    Posted July 23, 2016 at 8:07 pm

    Have you ever heard of people having trouble with the existing vinyl walls getting damaged when sanding the mud after removing the battens?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted July 24, 2016 at 2:14 pm

      Hi Annerberly,

      You cannot let the sandpaper touch the VOG panels. The paper coating is basically all that is holding the gypsum together and provides the little bit of water-protection is has. Work the mud while it’s still wet to get it as smooth as possible too. This is why I like caulking over mud – there’s a smaller chance of tearing that top paper coating.

      Best of luck!

  • Jennifer Bargeron
    Posted July 7, 2016 at 8:59 am

    I have had great results on textured walls by throwing DOWN the putty knife..and do your final strokes with an old towel (painter’s rags) The texture in the cloth recreates the original ‘grain’ much faster with a few feathery touches of a towel.

  • Maria johnson
    Posted July 3, 2016 at 1:03 pm

    Sorry it was scrubbing bubbles no oven cleaner.we used

  • Maria johnson
    Posted July 3, 2016 at 12:58 pm

    Can you use a oven cleanner to clean walls that are coverred in cigar smoke to take the yellow film and smell away and pant over that i cleanned a ladys apartment that had a gloss finish and it did clean but we were not able to pant decause of manager .will pant stick to that cleaner

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted July 5, 2016 at 10:58 am

      Hi Maria,

      I think scrubbing bubbles may be too caustic (I’m not sure that’s the right word?). It’s basically the paint that will be doing all the work on the cigarette smoke since you can’t really remove that stuff, you just need to clean as much of the wall as possible to create good adhesion for the paint. I’ve had good luck with Mr. Clean and the big white jug with the word lightening (grease lightening, maybe?) at Dollar General Store.

      Best of luck!

      • Esther
        Posted May 3, 2018 at 12:47 am

        I know this is a really, REALLY old post, but would like to say, as a smoker, I can tell you the best thing to get rid of nicotine stain and smell is distilled white vinegar. Just dunk a dish towel in the vinegar, attach it to a swiffer (or similar) and mop the walls. Works like a charm, isn’t caustic and you can use it anything :-)

      • Post Author
        Crystal Adkins
        Posted May 11, 2018 at 10:18 am

        Hi Esther!

        Thank you so much for that info! I appreciate you taking the time to comment!

  • Lisa
    Posted June 14, 2016 at 8:28 am

    Hi, Crystal. I’m really enjoying your site– so many great ideas! I am planning to paint the vinyl walls in my kitchen, and would really like to remove those ugly Batten strips. One method I keep hearing is to fill the seams with paintable caulk before mudding over with joint compound and feathering out. Another is to cover the walls with paintable wallpaper. Both prospects sound like a lot of hard work for one person, as I would likely be doing most of it myself. I also have some concern about the joints cracking after a while. So I came up with a sort of hybrid idea. I was thinking, since the vinyl walls in my kitchen have only a slight texture, perhaps I could first caulk the seams, and then cover them with wallpaper border, before priming and painting. Does this sound to you like an idea that will work?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted June 20, 2016 at 1:18 pm

      Absolutely Lisa! This is a how a lot of us have done it. Make sure to get the thickest wallpaper you can for the kitchen (that can be painted and scrubbed). Add a single coat of paint to the seam before you add the caulk, it will help the caulk to adhere better.

      best of luck!

  • Darin Clements
    Posted May 23, 2016 at 1:57 pm

    Just a tip from a professional contractor; when mudding the joints, use a 14″ taping knife that is flexible. This will allow you to feather it out more, creating a much less noticeable hump.

  • James Edwards
    Posted April 21, 2016 at 5:13 pm

    In addition, to the above article (How to Update Vinyl Walls in Mobile Homes), I have found that you must make sure that the mobile home is level when hanging drywall. Because later down the road, if for any reason it needs leveled your drywall work will probably crack. This I learned the hard way. So good luck in your endeavor.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted April 22, 2016 at 10:50 am

      Thanks so much for the tip James!

      A level home is a happy home! I really need to get an article up about the importance of a level home, It’s not as difficult to check or fix as most people think and it sure can relieve a lot of headaches.

      Thanks again!

  • Anne
    Posted April 17, 2016 at 1:06 am

    curious if you can move a furnace in a single wide mobile home ours is in the hallwall and protrudes into my kitchen with a bump out and hoping I can move it into a spare bedroom and give me more room in th ekithchen

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted April 17, 2016 at 12:37 pm

      Hi Anne,

      You sure can! One of the best things about manufactured homes is their simplicity when it comes to the heating and plumbing systems. The vents are usually in simple lines with few corners so you have a little flexibility.

      You’ll just want to do a little research to find the best place to put it (perhaps the middle of the home?).

      Thanks so much for reading Mobile and Manufactured Home Living!

      • Rj Knapp
        Posted July 30, 2017 at 9:36 am

        I am curious, why do they put the furnace on one end of the house? That makes the other end colder. Wish they would find a good place in the middle of the home.

      • Post Author
        Crystal Adkins
        Posted July 31, 2017 at 4:58 pm

        Hi RJ,

        Builders have put furnaces and water heaters in dang near every place possible in mobile homes! Ideally in a single wide, the furnace will be in the middle of the home and have two arms extending straight down the middle of the home. You probably just have a model where the designers mixed it up a bit. Make sure your ducts are well insulated and air tight.


      • Grace
        Posted May 6, 2023 at 6:04 am

        I know this is from 7 yrs ago. Just wanted to say we just put diy Mini-splits in our double wide and they are so much better than the furnace. Super quiet and cheap to run. This year 2023 there are great rebates. Ended up being $2.5k to do it all. It will pay for itself in 4 yrs. But going from 60db to 22 db is priceless.

  • Judy C Mauldin
    Posted March 27, 2016 at 11:02 am

    Hi, I am re-wallpapering a mobile home.. The original wallpaper is on wood paneling.. Would I need to use primer? or any other bonding agent? thank you

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted April 7, 2016 at 12:20 pm

      Hi Judy,

      I’m not real knowledgeable about wall paper. I’ve only done it a couple of times. I was under the impression that as long as the surface was clean and the paste was sticky you could get good, longlasting results.

      Let me know how it works out for you!

  • Mandi
    Posted March 20, 2016 at 12:33 pm

    We have some issues where my daughter taped posters on the wall and when she removed them the paper went with it. Any suggestions on how to fix that? Will a light mud work?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted March 23, 2016 at 11:26 am

      Hi Mandy,

      That top coating is a vinyl covering that holds the gypsum together. Once it has been damaged you’ll have to do something to the entire wall to make it all seem cohesive and paint will show the difference so you will need to prime it really well. Try a Killz primer or a Gripper and then paint over it. . I think that will be a much easier option unless you just really want to texture the whole room.

      Light mud will work but that’s a lot of work

      PS Make sure to clean the wall first.

      This might help:

      Best of luck!

  • Debbie
    Posted March 14, 2016 at 2:49 pm

    We have a 2002 38 ft RV that we will be down sizing to. We want to update to make it our home. The paper on the walls is starting to come off from dryness and age. Do we take it off before we paint or glue it back on on to come off again. We also have bad water stains on the ceilings. The roof has been fixed. Do we redo them or clean them some how. I am also worried about painting the cabinets. I did many years ago and they looked painted. Is it easier now and do they look better. Thank you.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted March 15, 2016 at 9:23 pm

      Hi Debbie!

      For the walls, or VOG vinyl on gypsum panels, it’s best to leave as much of the top paper layer on as possible. It kinda acts as a water repellent and keeps the paint from soaking into the gypsum. If you can glue it the loose paper go ahead and try that.

      For your ceiling, there is some great ceiling primer and paint on the market these days. Some even say they will cover water stains. Try a product that has both primer and paint that is very thick (Killz has a ceiling paint I think).

      Cabinets are all about the prep work. The more you prepare them before painting, the better. Scrub them well and then use a paint with primer (like Killz, Gripper, etc).

      Hope that helps – Best of luck! I’d love to see how everything turns out!

  • nancy
    Posted February 13, 2016 at 10:47 pm

    Hi … I have a 1980’s model Windsor home the walls in the hall separated from the luann back from leaking roof over time. The wall was wood paneling with luann put up over that Took all of it down to repair and behind the installation was some sort of foil paper next to the aluminum siding that had deteriorated. What is the foil and what was it there for and does it need to be replace or just put back up new installation?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted February 17, 2016 at 12:29 pm

      Hi Nancy,

      That probably acted as a radiant vapor barrier or house wrap and it is a good idea to replace (or install) a new wrap whenever possible (when replacing siding or interior walls).
      Best of luck!

  • Dale
    Posted January 4, 2016 at 10:51 pm

    Hello. I have a 70’s double wide in AZ. I’m just beginning to have some work done. I notice my kitchen cabinets look like they are hanging from the ceiling. Once I gut the kitchen out, can I hang new cabinets on the paneling or can I upgrade the walls to sheetrock? I’m not sure which route to go. I am guessing I have all metal type studs so I am not sure what is best to hang the cabinets on.
    Thank you!

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted January 7, 2016 at 4:25 pm

      Hi Dale!

      I’m no construction expert but I think cabinets are best hung from the walls and not the ceilings. Unless you have an Airstream or Spartan type home you likely have wood studs so there shouldn’t be any issues with hanging the cabinets. You can easily upgrade to sheetrock if you want too! Mobile homes have so much potential and are fairly easy to remodel which is one of the reasons they are so great!

      Thank you so much for contacting me!

  • Irene King
    Posted December 24, 2015 at 10:01 am

    Two words: Paintable Wallpaper. Give me don’t mind doing the little bit extra work of cleaning, lightly sanding, filling in the holes and the seams, then you’ll find that this heavy vinyl paper will work great. I don’t have a mobile home yet, but I’m planning to buy one when I retire. However, in my condo I have used it a lot. I have used the Martha Stuart brand in the beadboard pattern, and people don’t know that it’s wallpaper. There are other brands, patterns and textures, so there’s quite a lot of choices.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted January 5, 2016 at 1:25 pm

      Hi Irene!

      Paintable wallpaper is awesome! I have seen some gorgeous patterns over the years. At first I was a bit hesitant because I didn’t think it could hold up to the paint but it does. My grandmother is even using it as a back splash in her kitchen and it has been up for at least 7 years and looks brand new.

      Thanks so much for commenting and sharing your tip!

    • Miranda
      Posted January 31, 2016 at 6:15 am

      Is the paintable walpaper easy to hang?

      • Post Author
        Crystal Adkins
        Posted February 1, 2016 at 2:07 pm

        Hi Miranda!

        To be completely honest, it’s not as easy as regular wallpaper but you can do it! It’s very thick and that’s a good thing and a bad thing. Thicker wallpaper, in my opinion, is easier to position but it’s a bit harder to get started because of the weight. Just follow the directions and have a helper hold the top section while you do the positioning and it will go easier (assuming you are doing an entire wall). I just found it a bit awkward to get each row started but with a little help it was a lot quicker.

        Best of luck! Let me know how it goes!

  • wallace
    Posted September 24, 2015 at 8:20 am

    Another step to promote paint adhesion is to lightly hand sand the walls with some of those cheap sand/sponges or some 220 grit paper. This will further take the sheen off which is key to doing this right. Nothing likes to stick to a slick shiny surface .Do this step after you’ve thoroughly washed your walls and let them dry. Then use a tack cloth to wipe off the loose dust from the sanding. now your ready to prime and paint you heart away and dare your paint to peel, chip, or flake.

  • Jane
    Posted September 17, 2015 at 4:08 pm

    Hello! I am wondering how to update stenciled panels in a double wide that has all the trappings of the 80s mauve color everywhere! The stenciled panels are tulips that vines that run the entire length of the panel. These panels are on cabinet doors and panels between the kitchen and living room. Need ideas of how to update! Or cover up.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted September 18, 2015 at 2:36 pm

      Hi Jane!

      If it’s on the vinyl covered walls or the cabinetry you should be able to paint right over the stenciled areas. You’d need to use a good primer to give the area a clean canvas and to allow the paint to adhere to the surface but it shouldn’t be too hard. There’s also paintable wallpaper you could use to cover the area. Paint is a great way to freshen up a room and give the space a whole new look.

      Best of luck!

  • Nicole
    Posted September 12, 2015 at 9:55 pm

    So glad to have found you! You explain the seemingly impossible so well. I feel like I can tackle my mh and really change it into my dream home. Thank you!

  • Kathleen E
    Posted August 23, 2015 at 4:37 pm

    Hi, We just purchased a double manufactured home in a retirement community in Arizona. We need to spruce up the outside. and inside the house it has the old vinyl walls. I would like to paint and tape the seams that they don’t look vinyl and near the ceiling put the wood boarder all the way around. will the walls still have that vinyl look and texture. Could you recommend a good book for repairs and fix-ups guide.

  • sheila
    Posted June 26, 2015 at 6:48 am

    Hi Crystal,
    I purchased my singlewide new and love mobile home living! I have some issues with the wallpaper because of all the holes the manufacturer have made from hanging curtain rods in the wrong place. How can I repair them? I don’t care to paint since it is a new one. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Sheila

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted June 27, 2015 at 4:06 pm

      Hi Sheila!

      I’ve used toothpaste to fill-in holes on a white wall before and it worked great. I bet you can find some type of color putty that would work well too! Caulk or drywall mud would be good if you can find a paint pen that matches the color of your wall. Just let it dry well before you paint.

      Thanks so much for reading MHL and good luck!

  • Amanda Wilburn
    Posted June 2, 2015 at 9:57 am

    I am getting ready to start on removing the batten strips and fill in the cracks like you recommend with the caulk. My question is in my living room my vinyl walls have a light texture to them. If I fill in the cracks with caulk can I run a thick paint roller over the seams to add a little texture so as not to have thin flat strips where the battens used to be?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted June 2, 2015 at 1:50 pm

      Hi Amanda!

      You can! There’s a few things that you can do to make the caulk work a bit better for you. First, paint the seam before applying the caulk. Apparently the paint helps the caulk adhere better. Then paint over the caulk to get it all one color.

      It is difficult to get the caulk to match the walls, even when the walls are textured, but using a special textured roller when applying the paint will help a lot. The first strip will be the hardest, so start somewhere that’s not as noticeable and just work with it till you get it as close as you can.

      Good luck and let us know how it goes!

  • Kristine
    Posted May 27, 2015 at 10:47 pm

    Hi Crystal,
    I live in a 1974 mobile home. I’ve been living here since 1990. I’ve made a lot of improvements over the windows, paint,additional bathroom etc. still have the existing painted panel walls and ugly ceilings. I want to texture the walls and the ceilings. Ceilings are foot and a half strips running the width of trailer. Was told I shouldn’t use joint compound to texture because of the movement of the trailer. Would be nice to have more of a ,stick built, house feel. If you know what I mean. Any recommendations?
    Thanks, Kristine

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted May 29, 2015 at 2:53 pm

      Hi Kristine!

      If you have no intention of moving the home and it’s set on a good foundation you can definitely use joint compound. The worse that can happen is you’ll need to patch it if the home suffers any kind of movement. Joint compound is one of the most useful products in the remodeling/construction industry – use it to your advantage! Manufactured home builders are using sheet rock and drywall more and more these days and though it’s a bit of a hassle after setup it makes a home look and feel more like a site-built home so it’s worth every bit of the hassle.

      There’s a lot of misguided advice out there regarding manufactured homes – lots of people believe the homes are nothing like a site-built home but that’s not the case at all. Same materials, same construction techniques…their just built in a factory and hauled to the site. I’ve also heard people say you can’t use tile but I’ve seen no issue with it, just make sure the tile didn’t cross the marriage line and isn’t too heavy.

      Your only concern will be settling or high wind movement but if the home has been there for 25 years already I’d say it’s settled and will be there another 25 years! Good luck!

  • Post Author
    Crystal Adkins
    Posted April 28, 2015 at 12:18 pm

    So glad you like Mobile Home Living! Thank you for commenting!

  • Linda
    Posted April 21, 2015 at 4:31 pm

    I have a 1987 Carrollton single wide. The bathroom has a tall narrow linen/storage closet that is made with wood looking paneling, it abuts the sink vanity. I want to paint the closet & doors as it is a different wood hue than the vanity cabinet and another cabinet which is over the toilet. The rest of the room will be done with beadboard and paint. What do you suggest I do?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted April 23, 2015 at 12:15 pm

      Hi Linda!

      With bead board and a good trim you can give your bathroom a cute cottage look. Since that storage closet is already in a different paneling it sounds like it would be great to continue its ‘oddness’ and use it as an accent. Paint it in a complimentary color that goes with the rest of the room but isn’t used much. Maybe a nice blue or grey?

      I bet whatever you chose will be beautiful! Take photos for us and good luck!

  • Mary Gillette
    Posted April 19, 2015 at 6:50 pm

    I have an older mobile home and we are using liquid nail and staples to hang the walk panels over the existing ugly ones. We are also porting them up flush so as not to have to use batten strips. At first the walls looked great-smooth and everything. A week later and I get dish walking in the room. The walls are wavy. Help!

    • Mary Gillette
      Posted April 19, 2015 at 6:53 pm

      Sorry for the typos
      *wall panels
      *putting them up
      *dizzy walking into the room

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted April 20, 2015 at 11:24 am

      Hi Mary!

      So sorry you’ve had issues! There’s nothing worse than putting a lot of hard work into a project and it backfire on you! I’ve been there!

      It kinda sounds like a water issue, maybe the glue was water based and seeped into the drywall or gypsum? We’d be happy to take a look if you want to send me photos of the walls.

      My email is – If you do send photos, let me know what type of walls you used (drywall, VOG, paneling,etc) and the type of liquid nail. That may help.

      Thanks so much!

  • Diana
    Posted April 15, 2015 at 8:39 pm

    We purchased a 20 year old modular with paneling in both bathrooms with the battens between panels. I see all the comments about remove the battens and prepare the surface. My problem is how to get the battens or strips off, is there a trick to it or what could I be doing wrong. It seems to be a sort of plastic and breaks leaving a ridge.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted April 16, 2015 at 4:16 pm

      Hi Diana!

      Usually the battons are just stapled into the panels so any pry bat type tool will work. Just slip the tool under the strip and pry gently along the length and it should come right out! Good luck!

      • Nicole
        Posted June 3, 2016 at 10:35 pm

        Hi Crystal! Ours were actually in a “T” shape, and when I tried to use a pry bar to get it out, I had to actually get a hammer to break the back side of the strip. I couldn’t get it out otherwise. So now I have a beat up section of the wall (where I was learning how to make it work with the hammer) and I don’t know how to fix it. I painted over it thinking that would be ok, but it just makes it stick out more now! The cardboard like stuff that the walls are made of is not flush with the rest of the wall (it looks gapped and a mess), and I can’t figure out how to get it back right. Any suggestions? I was thinking to just run sand paper lightly over it and then repaint, but I’m afraid that might tear it up more.

      • Post Author
        Crystal Adkins
        Posted June 20, 2016 at 3:17 pm

        Hi Nicole,

        Can you maybe send me a photo? My email is If it’s a vinyl on gypsum wall it’s going to be a different fix. When sheet rock is overly damaged it’s best to just cut the section out but I don’t want to tell you to do that if it isn’t necessary.


  • Norma A.
    Posted March 18, 2015 at 5:33 pm

    Is there a 2 in 1 that is recommended? I imagine its easier to already have the primer in the paint that way you don’t have to do so many coats right?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted March 28, 2015 at 11:09 am

      I’ve always like Valspar and Behr. I think with today’s chemical technology just about any mid-to-high priced 2-in-1 would work very well.

  • Post Author
    Crystal Adkins
    Posted March 5, 2015 at 2:23 pm

    Hi Kay! Sounds like you have a gorgeous home that just keeps getting better and better!

  • Ashley
    Posted February 15, 2015 at 6:34 am

    Can u sand the walls before paint? I to have a home where paint has already been added and I can not get the old off?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted February 15, 2015 at 6:35 pm

      Hi Ashley!

      If your walls are the VOG panels with the glossy finish then no, you shouldn’t sand them at all. That topcoat is basically paper with some sort of gloss or glaze over it and it’s what holds the panel together and gives it what little bit of water protection it has.

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

    • wallace
      Posted September 24, 2015 at 8:29 am

      You can as long as you are very gentle and use a fine sand paper like 220 grit and do it by hand. NO power sanders ! But keep in mind what Crystal said about the outer layer. You are not trying to sand anything off just lightly scuffing the gloss down from the existing finish . Be light handed and you should be fine.

  • Loretta
    Posted February 14, 2015 at 8:59 pm

    I have started removing the strips and tried to mud and tape before i seen that using caulk to fill works best. But I have only started on one room. This sounds much easier and maybe look better. I don’t like textured walls or the strips. So before I get going on the next room what type of caulk do you recommend?

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted February 15, 2015 at 7:38 pm

      Hi Loretta!

      Using caulk is a lot easier than the mud and tape method, especially if you’ve never worked with tape before. DAP is probably the most popular caulk brand and they have tons of different formulas. Here are a few that would work well (I found them all on their site):

      DAP® ALEX® Painter’s Acrylic Latex Caulk
      DAP® ALEX Fast Dry® Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone
      DAP® ALEX FLEX™ Premium Molding & Trim Sealant
      DAP® SIMPLE SEAL™ Paint Projects Easy-to-Use Home Sealant

      DAP® CRACKSHOT® High-Performance Spackling Paste (RTU)
      DAP® ELASTOPATCH® Pro-Grade Elastomeric Patching CompoundSmooth (RTU)

      Good luck! Just holler if you need anything else!

  • Nancy
    Posted February 7, 2015 at 12:19 pm

    We have an early 1990’s park model in Mesa, AZ. The wallpaper is coming off in the living room. Underneath it I can see a dark paneling/wallboard of some kind. It has a rough feeling to it. Can we pull off the vinyl wallpaper and just prime and paint it? I haven’t been able to find any information on this topic.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted February 7, 2015 at 3:14 pm

      Hi Nancy!

      Yes! As long as its regular ole wallpaper. If its been there a while you may have to steam it off. Then prime and paint. It sounds like someone added wallpaper over the old faux-wood paneling. My house had it too!

      Let us know how it goes!

  • Chelsea
    Posted October 20, 2014 at 2:23 pm


    I have a 2010 single wide mobile home. I’m going to be painting my walls soon, but I will be starting with our closet as a test run. I plan on removing the battens and then painting. I have heard that spraying ammonia on the walls before painting helps A LOT with the process!! Now, for the paint. I decided to not go with Glidden due to the horrible reviews. But, I have heard good things about Behr. Is there any tips or suggestions you could provide to make this as smooth as possible? Any help would be great!!!


    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted October 21, 2014 at 8:56 am

      Hi Chelsea!

      Doing a test run is a very smart idea! I probably should put that in the article, huh? I researched about the ammonia and found that it is the most recommended de-greaser and cleaner by professionals. Plus it’s super cheap!

      I always seem to buy Valspar but only because it’s always on sale at my local Lowe’s. I’ve learned not to buy cheap paint but I’m a bit too frugal to pay more than $30 a gallon for paint. I suspect paint is one of those products that makes the old saying ‘you get what you pay for’ ring true though. Plus I think most paint has a money back guarantee so if Behr doesn’t work well for you then you can get your money back.

      Cleaning the walls seems to be the most important step in the whole process and you’ve done your research so you should have no problem!

      In addition to this article, I wrote another article for about painting mobile home walls. It’s basically the same information but in a different format.

      Good luck. Take some photos for us!

      • diona
        Posted December 30, 2014 at 3:42 pm

        VALSPAR t is ones of the worst paints to buy. to thick and didn’t do as it claims. A few more $ buy Behr. One of the top 3 recommended by painters.. i prainted half a house with Valsar… terrible. .I went and paid for Behr myself for a job (which is what I use usually).Father wanted it, against my better judgement I did what he wanted. .. never again.

  • Diana
    Posted June 28, 2014 at 11:05 pm

    I just got an older Mobile Home; 1979 single wide.
    The previous owners already painted all paneled walls with the wrong paint and it is peeling/chipping everywhere. All flat white over dark paneling.
    Kitchen and Bathroom I am going to cover with bead-board but what do I do now with the already painted walls?
    Thank You very much for all this Mobile Home DIY information.

    • Post Author
      Crystal Adkins
      Posted June 29, 2014 at 12:37 pm

      Hi Diana! It’s great to hear from you! I’ve seen this problem a few times but I was always fortunate to be able to just peel the paint off. It was pretty fun…I bet in your case the wall was just cleaner in some parts and was able to bond to the wall better so peeling won’t work. I’d probably try to peel it off and then very lightly use a flat edge scraper and scrape it off using a light steam or heat (steamer or hair dryer).

      There are lots of paint remover products you could try but I’d be very careful cause it could eat into the wall itself. One of those articles mentioned that if you do use a homemade or store bought paint remover to clean the walls well afterward so that the chemicals are neutralized. That will also give you another round of cleaning the walls so your paint will bond to the wall wonderfully!

      Good luck! Please take some photos for us – would love to see how it all turns out for you!!

  • mary
    Posted May 23, 2014 at 10:38 am

    We have a park model vacation home. We want to add a back splash in the kitchen. Can you tile over the vinyl walls??

  • Heather
    Posted March 25, 2014 at 3:49 pm

    Thank You for this information!

Leave a comment


This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.