Plumbing Basics for Manufactured Homes

Plumbing in manufactured homes is a bit different than site-built homes. Manufactured homes only have to meet the national HUD code, no local codes at all, which is one reason plumbers don’t like working on manufactured homes. The national code is less stringent which makes for frustrating troubleshooting.

This article will help you learn how manufactured home plumbing differs from a site-built home, the different pipe materials used, and how to repair the most common issues.

HUD Code and Plumbing in Manufactured Homes

Factory-built homes have to meet the national HUD regulations and are inspected before leaving the factory by certified inspectors. No other inspections will be done inside the home.

Plumbing is a complex system that requires all components to work properly for the sake of the entire system. Even a small issue can wreak havoc throughout the whole home.

Major Differences Between Site-Built and Manufactured Home Plumbing

Manufactured homes use the same basics and logistics as site-built homes in their plumbing system designs but there are a few obvious difference between the two.

The main differences are the location of the pipes, size of the pipes used, and the ‘simplification’ of the system that is allowed by the HUD code.

Supply Line Location 

Location of the plumbing pipes is different in manufactured homes simply because the homes are built differently. Supply lines is how water travels through the home to reach each fixture. In site-built homes, they are run inside the walls. In manufactured homes, they are almost always buried under the floor.

Pex plumbing water lines raising from floor joist up through floor in new manufactured homne construction - jacobsen homes

In manufactured homes, they are run under the home either in the middle alongside your heating ducts or on the side, depending on the layout and location of your water heater. In the image above you can see the hot and cold PEX water lines stubbed up through the floor in a manufactured home factory.

Cleanouts and Cut-Off Valves

Another big difference is the lack of cleanouts and cut-off valves in the home though newer manufactured homes have those now. There will be a cleanout where the home’s waste drain line meets the sewer or septic trunk outside.

It’s smart to have cut off valves at every water source (faucet, tubs, and toilet). However, if you have to repair or replace anything on a manufactured home plumbing system you have to cut the main valve off anyway because there’s a lot of pressure in those lines and it needs to be reduced before you start cutting into them.

Clean out and stack vent on new manufactured home install

Plumbing Pipe Sizes for Manufactured Homes

Pipe size plays a big role in a plumbing system. Using pipe that is too small for your venting can cause just as much trouble as using too small of a pipe for your waste line.

Many manufactured home builders install a smaller pipe (3″) for drainage and venting. Site-built homes would have 4″.

Myths about Plumbing in Manufactured Homes

It’s no secret that many skilled trade professionals like plumbers and electricians dislike working on manufactured homes. This is caused by a couple of myths and a couple of truths.

One myth about plumbing in manufactured homes is that there is no venting for the drain lines and that’s ridiculous. All drain-waste lines need venting to even work. Otherwise, the system would become air-locked.

Another myth is that the manufactured housing industry uses substandard and unsafe pipes. Some manufactured home builders did use plastic polybutylene and galvanized metal pipes which were standard at the time for all homes. It was later learned that the material had issues. We’ll talk about that in detail in a few moments.

3 Parts of Manufactured Home Plumbing Systems

Basically, there are 3 parts that make up the whole plumbing system: supply lines, drain-waste lines, and ventilation lines.

Supply Lines

Your water supply lines are the smaller pipes (3/8″ to 1″) that come into the home. They are usually either copper or Pex. If your home has white, cream, or a medium grey pipe for your supply lines, you will probably want to replace them as most local regulations don’t recommend them and some have banned them altogether. The water comes through 1 line and then branches at the water heater so some water can get heated, from there a hot and cold line runs parallel to the faucets, tubs, etc.

Drain Lines

Drain or waste lines are usually 3″ ABS. These systems use gravity, traps, and ventilation to ensure optimum waste removal at the sewer drop and to keep gases and fumes from building up and releasing.

Think of this as a completely closed system with a positive and negative vacuum or pressure. All the parts have to work correctly to allow the system to do what it is designed for. Without the proper positive or negative pressure acting as a vacuum in the pipes the waste won’t go where it’s supposed to, it can back-flow instead.

You have to get the grade right on drainage pipes because too much of a grade (or slant) will cause as much issue as too little. A 1/4″ to 1/2″ grade per foot is ideal.

Ventilation Pipes

Ventilation pipes help the waste lines to keep the proper pressure or vacuum – in other words, it keeps water in all the right places.  It is just as important as the supply and drain lines and you have to have ventilation in order to make it all work. Plumbing systems are much like a living thing – it has to have air and water.

A single ventilation pipe in a manufactured home won’t help the drain pipes furthest away so they use what I’ve always just called a dry vent (they also call them auto vents, check vents, or air admittance valves).

Air Vents

Air vents allow air to flow into the drains. Keep in mind that oftentimes a dry vent on a sink isn’t necessarily helping the sink it is tied into, it’s benefiting the other drains in the house. If you would like to learn more about auto vents, this article does well explaining, as does this one.

Under Pressure

Remember that water is coming into your home under a lot of pressure through your supply lines. It can turn corners and go up several stories. If you have a leak in the system, imagine how much water can be lost in just a small amount of time!

Drainage leaks are sneaky little things. Water will always follow the path of least resistance so sometimes it’s hard to pinpoint where the leak is coming from.

Common Plumbing Pipe Materials

You will need to know what type of pipe and fittings are used for each sub-system. There are basically 2 types of piping used in plumbing- metal and plastic.

Most plumbing in manufactured homes uses plastic. Plastic pipes include polyvinyl chloride (PVC), chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC), PEX pipe and PolyPipe®.  Metal plumbing pipe consists of copper, stainless steel, and galvanized steel. Not all pipes are as useful or effective as others, and each type is used for a specific purpose in plumbing.

Mobile home plumbing pipe and fittings menards

Polybutylene Pipe

Polybutylene was used in all types of homes, including manufactured homes, from the late 1970’s to the mid-1990’s. Several lawsuits were filed on behalf of millions of homeowners due to issues this material had. If you had any type of bleach in your water, and most city systems do, the pipe would break down and cause leaks and complete blowouts, usually within 5-10 years. You can’t buy it anymore but it’s still in more homes than it should be. It’s a medium grey color and will have PB and some numbers on the side. If you have this in your home today, you need to replace it and then go buy a lottery ticket cause you have been very lucky to have had it this long without any issues!

If you are looking to buy an older manufactured home, do not buy it with this kind of pipe in it. Make the seller replace it or have them take the replacement cost off the price of the home (there may even be local and federal laws prohibiting the sale of a home with this type of pipe in it).


PVC is a type of plastic plumbing pipe primarily used to transport high pressured water. It is available in several standard sizes, ranging from ½ inch to 4 inches in diameter. PVC pipe is only made to handle cold water, as hot water will cause the pipe to warp. It is generally white in color, though a few varieties are gray.


CPVC pipe that has received an extra chlorination. It comes in a distinctive yellow color and can handle both hot and cold water. CPVC is more flexible with substantially thinner walls than PVC pipe and has the same outer diameter as copper pipe, which increases its range of uses.


PEX, also known as cross-linked polyethylene pipe, was first manufactured in the 1920s but has become more popular in recent years. It shares the same outer diameter as copper and can be used for both hot and cold water. However, PEX pipe has a much higher heat resistance than most other plumbing pipes and is often used in water-based heating systems. It comes in a creamy white color, as well as red and blue which is used to denote hot and cold pipes respectively.  

We recommend you replace your water lines with PEX when the time comes to update. You can use special fittings to secure the connections by hand or rent the tool needed to connect the lines. Pex, in our humblest of opinions, is the best pipe for water supply lines and is so much easier to install than anything else.


PolyPipe is a thick black pipe used to transport highly pressurized water, usually to and from the home. It is used almost exclusively outdoors and is usually buried underground to prevent freezing. PolyPipe® is extremely rigid, and is rarely used for other purposes.

Here’s a good video about a double wide re-pipe:


Copper is the most common type of plumbing pipe used in the home, although it is more expensive than plastic piping. It is especially resistant to corrosion and can withstand high temperatures. Copper pipes come in three different sizes – type M, L, and K. Type M have very thin walls, while type L is of medium thickness, and type K is the thickest of the three.


Galvanized pipe is known for rust issues and the plastic piping (polybutylene) are known to corrode and cause leaks. There’s also an issue with the connections. If you find yourself plagued with leaks, go ahead and re-pipe the home, if possible.

Galvanized pipes have been used in homes for years, typically to carry water in and out of the house. The galvanized coating prevents rusting and gives a dull gray appearance. Use of these heavy duty pipes is diminishing, as it is being replaced by PEX pipe, which is less expensive and just as durable. Galvanized pipes typically come in sizes between ½ inch and 2 inches in diameter.

Mobile home plumbing

Common Plumbing Issues in Manufactured Homes

Nasty smells and weird noises

Ventilation issues are very common in manufactured homes. The most notable problem being nasty fumes and a build-up of gases that could cause some serious issues.

Ventilation makes your pipes remain at a neutral pressure. Without proper venting, your drainage slows and the water in your P-trap goes away, which in turn allows the nasty smells to escape into your home.

Think of a soda bottle: when you tip it half way, the liquid smoothly flows but when you turn it completely upside down, it makes gurgling sounds and the soda pours out slowly. That’s what happens when there’s not enough ventilation or air flow.

There are wet vents and dry vents, the roof pipe is considered a wet vent.

If you hear weird sounds coming from your walls when the water is draining (not when water is running) you most likely have a venting problem.

Venting issues are hard to find. The easiest cases will either be a clogged vent stack, separation of a vent line somewhere, or a failed auto-vent under a sink.

Moisture problems in manufactured homes - bathtub leaks

Plumbing Leaks

Plumbing supply lines in manufactured homes will rarely be inside a wall so you won’t need to worry too much about damage to walls. When there is a leak it’s usually the floors, sub-flooring, insulation, and HVAC ducts under the home that get damaged.

If your flooring is made of composite wood or MDF it will soak water up like a sponge. Wet MDF eventually bows and rots.

In the end, it will be far cheaper, and less stressful, to just cap off the old lines and run new water supply lines than trying to fight with old material and patches.

Area plumbing codes will be the ultimate factor in deciding what material to use but Pex is a popular product and as long as the connections are high quality and a proper seal is made, will be your best choice for supply lines.

A monthly check under your sinks and under the home itself is a good idea.

Leaks, clogs, low pressure, obnoxious odors, and having no hot water are just a few of the issues that you may encounter. If your manufactured home is older you may have to replace the system entirely. There are lots of things that can go wrong! We’ll try to cover them all in the future.

Leaking Faucets

Leaking can occur in a couple of different places on a faucet. It’s probably easier to just replace the whole unit than repair. If you are especially attached to your faucet, this article about fixing leaking faucets should help.

Clogs in your kitchen Sink

If there is a clog in your sink, a plunger can work well. They make a smaller plunger for the task. If you have a two-sided sink, close off one side by stuffing a rag into the drain (cut off air) and plunge the other side, then switch – keep doing it until the clog is gone.

If you have clog issues frequently, it may be time to find the underlying issue. You can remove your p-trap, if it’s closed off with grease you can clean it out or replace it. You may need to add a dry vent to the next closest sink.

How to Turn Your Water Off

Knowing where and how to turn your water off in case of an emergency, or before any repair, is important. Being able to shut your water off quickly can be the difference in a complete disaster and a small inconvenience.

The first place to go is the main stop valve for your home which should be around your utility room or around your outside garden hose water connection (hose bib as some call it).

If you can’t find your home’s main stop valve you’ll need to cut the water off at the main water meter (assuming you are on a city system) or in your pump house if you are on a well system.

Most city or town supplied city water systems require a water meter key. This is a five-sided pentagon wrench that unlocks the meter cover. They come in different sizes so check what size you need.

If you can’t find a meter key you can also use a wrench and long screwdriver for a makeshift key – place a wrench straight up and down and then thread the screwdriver through the hole at the end of the wrench. The two tools will look like a T. Use the screwdriver to turn the wrench. This article about turning off your water supply is handy if you want to read more.

Once you get the cover off the water meter cover you’ll see a knob or nut that you can twist to turn the water off. To work on the home’s plumbing system you’ll need to drain the supply line system so the pressure is released.

We’ve covered the basics of plumbing in manufactured homes: how the systems work, where everything is located, and what your choices are for pipe materials. We also covered the 5 most common mobile home plumbing issues and how to troubleshoot them.

Our article, How to Diagnose and Repair Venting Issues in Your Mobile Home Plumbing System, can help you learn more about venting issues.

Thanks so much for reading Mobile Home Living!

Featured Image: 37 Sequoia Circle, Santa Rosa CA listing photos.


  1. Hi, I am having a leak in my mobile home. It is under the fridge which is next to our laundry room. We had someone check the fridge but nothing is wrong, so we had him look at the washer and same thing. I turned of the valves in the laundry room but there is still a leak. Do you have maybe an idea where the leak is coming from.

    • Hi Isabel,

      Have someone take a look at your ice maker. They are sneaky little things and the hoses are easily damaged. If that’s not the problem look in the wall for the washer connection (there’s usually a pipe in the wall that reaches up to the washer hose connection). I’m guessing it’s going to be one of those.

      Definitely get it figured out even if you have to start tearing down walls. You don’t want the water damaging your flooring.

      Best of luck!

    • I just had this issue. I have a Samsung fridge, and under the crisper drawer it was full of water & slowly dripping down the side and under fridge but from the inside. It was the evaporator coil in back of fridge. It seems to be very common with this brand. Try searching your fridge model see if people have same issue of leaks.

  2. I’ve been reading and watching you help people with their plumbing problems, so here you go with my plumbing problem. I have a 1997 Double Wide and the shower drain pan was leaking under the house. So bought the same exact parts and installed it with the rubber gasket under the shower pan and tightened the nut and then had my wife install the drain with the putty and then tighten the drain into pipe that goes into the trap until it was tight. When my wife turned the water on it leaked under the shower pan again….what did I do wrong?.

    • Hi Michael!

      Without seeing exactly what type of drain we suspect that the putty may have failed. We only use 100% silicone in between the flange and the pan – as the putty has a tendency to strip off and leave a gap when tightening it.

      PS My husband is the licensed master plumber, I’m just the assistant but we’re very happy we can help people! If the silicone doesn’t work please email a picture or 2 of the drain/setup and we should be able to give you more detailed help. My email is

      Thank you! Best of luck!

    • Hi Janie,

      It could be anything! Here’s some things you can do:

      – Make sure the toilet is working properly – lift the lid and make sure the tank has sufficient water (you may want to replace the ‘guts’ of your toilet)
      – Snake the drain to remove any blockages
      – Make sure your drain pipes are not in a bind and are in an appropriate slope to the main trunk line
      – Make sure there is sufficient ventilation for that drain line

      Best of luck!

  3. Hi my name is Angela I have a 1999 Astro mobile home the sewer pipe under the trailer is plugged how do I fix this. I live in Maine also PLEASE HELP THANKS????

    • Hi Angela!

      Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and buy a plumber’s snake. They aren’t perfect but they will get small blockages cleared. You’ll push the wire down your pipe (via the toilet), until it reaches the blockage. Work the snake until the clog clears. If that doesn’t work or your blockage is to far you’ll like need to call plumber with construction grade snake (they have motors and spray high pressure water that will unclog just about anything!).

      Best of luck!

  4. I live in a 1987 mobile home. When the washer drains water will back up into the kitchen sink and the fumes are horrible. Sometimes the water even overflows from the drain onto the laundry room floor. I see no vent stack thru the roof nor do I see any under sink venting devices. I am somewhat handy with home repairs and my neighbor works for a home re-modeler and will help with anything I need. What do you suggest to correct this problem?

    • Hi Larry!

      You are experiencing a very common issue in manufactured homes. It’s kind of a double whammy of not enough (or failed) ventilation and possibly too small of a drain line from the washer.

      First, try adding a Studor auto vent under the kitchen sink. That should help the smell. Studor is the best name brand and well worth spending the extra $15 over the other auto vents.

      If your washer drain line is only an inch and a half pipe you may want to consider re-piping it with a two inch pipe. While doing that, tie it in under the house directly to the main drain/trunk line itself, separate from the kitchen drain. That will definitely fix your problem! Those 1.5″ pipes just aren’t meant to handle a lot of water, especially high pressure water being released from a newer washer.

      Try the auto vent first, especially if there is no stack connected to the immediate system (though there could be one in the walls that has failed – the cheaper vents seem to fail after only a few years).

      Best of luck! Let me know how it works!

  5. I have a 1980 Celtic. The problem I am having is with slow drainage of the drain pipes from the kitchen and the laundry. The kitchen sink has a pipe that eventually hooks up with the pipe from the washer and utility sink in the shed. These are on the east side of the house, and the outflow point is on the west corner.

    Whenever the washer empties, we hear water bubbling in the kitchen sink trap. When things get really slow, water from the washer backs up a bit into the utility sink next to the washer, and, when the dishwasher empties, water will rise into the sink. That’s when we know it’s time to get the pipes snaked.

    I have had more than one plumbing company try to figure this out. They say it is not the vent pipes. The most they seem to come up with is that the pipes are so flat by the time they reach the outflow that they drain slowly, and then get layered deposits inside. Whenever a big rush of water enters from the east side, the system is slow to react, which is why we hear the bubbling when the washer empties.

    We don’t use the sink disposal for solid foods–nothing like that. We do laundry at least once a week.

    The suggestion is that we pour boiling water down the drains once a month. We try to keep up with this, but it seems like the water is cool anyway by the time it crosses from east to west.

    By the way, we live in Florida, so freezing isn’t an issue.

    Any thoughts? I’ve paid hundreds of dollars to try to get this resolved.

    • Hi Jody!

      Your issue has all the signs of a ventilation issue but if a plumber determined that it wasn’t a ventilation issue then my second guess (other than a blockage or just improper drain line installation where the drain pipe is installed at a improper angle or with a kink ) is going to be that your drain pipes are simply too small to handle the load from the machine. Going up to a larger pipe size could help. This is especially a problem with drain lines when it comes to modern washing machines and dishwashers.

      I still can’t help but think it’s a ventilation issue. If you can figure out where your washing machine drain line connects to your other drain lines (kitchen or bathroom) and add an under the sink vent to that area it may help a bit. if that doesn’t work replaceing the drain line from the washing machine to the main trunk should do the trick (assuming no blockages or improper installation).

      Best of luck!

      • I work as a plumber for mobile home manufacturing co. there should be what is called an “in wall’ vent.these vents are typically plumbed into the main washer drain. they are the same thing as an under sink drain. they operate like a “check valve”they are known to quit working. problem is,,,,,,they are inside the wall. so it would take someone wiyh a few carpentry skills to get to it,replace it,repair wall.

      • Hi Aaron,

        You’re right! I know them as inline vents and they can be placed in a wall or under a sink. If you have gurgling or slow drainage you can usually add a vent under a faucet stack to bypass having to cut into a wall. As long as the vent is allowed to suck air in (but not out) it will work – I never much cared for them being placed inside walls.

        Thanks so much for reading MHL – I appreciate your comment!

  6. I have a 1981 Hallmark 2 bedroom trailer. Our bathroom and kitchen sink won’t drain. The tub and toilet are fine. I’ve taken apart the plumbing under the sinks, and ran a snake as far as i could, and still nothing. I’ve crawled all over under the trailer, and the only lines i see coming down and connecting to the waste/septic is for the washer (also fine). The trailer is insulated very well underneath, and i’ve cut a couple spots looking for pipes under the sinks but for the life of me I can’t find anything lol. I’ve even googled various phrases relating to the plumbing plan, to no avail. Any ideas?

    • Hi Arthur,

      Its most likely a blockage or a ventilation issue. Try a true professional plumber’s snake (those they sell at Lowe’s or Home Depot are not that great and are mostly for sinks, not drainage line blockages. You should be able to rent one. Poor ventilation could be air locking the system as well. Those are the most likely issues.

      Hope you figure it out. Best of luck!

  7. I am working on a double wide for my daughter. There seams to be no water on the “A” side but there is water to the small bathe on the “B” side of the trailer. So I know what I am looking for when I go under the trailer, doe s the water come in from the riser then T and then have separate supply runs to each side of the house? Oh sorry I guess there is water to the laundry area also. Nothing to the kitchen or the main bathe. We just got this house and are fixing it up, utilites have been off for about 6 months. Just got power and gas turned on.

    Thank you

    • Hi Eric!

      In most manufactured homes the main water line from the meter goes into one connection under the home and straight toward the water heater. From the heater it will branch out. With double wides, it will not have separate entries for each side – It will be a single closed system for everything.

      It sounds like you have a simple blockage, especially since it’s affecting the an entire side or area of the home. You’ll probably see the problem quickly once you get under the house. If you don’t see anything obvious, you may want to test the lines pressure with a gauge at each connection or junction. Sometimes, it’s easier to run a new line of PEX than it is to try to find an seemingly invisible issue and repair it, especially with PEX being so affordable and easy to install (use the Sharkbite fittings and you won’t even need a special tool). PEX plays well with others…lol

      PS Make sure the previous owners didn’t disconnect that area of the home (they get a leak and just cap off the line until they can get it fixed) or if the lines froze and busted.

      Let me know how it goes! Best of luck!

      • Hi Tamalea,

        It can cause issues if you have completely sealed off your ‘attic’ area (roofing) or under the home (skirting). Both areas need air inlets and outlets to breath and remove condensation.

        If you are experiencing wet spots on your ceilings or top of your walls and have deduced that there are no leaks in the roof then condensation is likely the problem. Mold or mildew issues along your home’s sub-flooring can be caused by a lack of ventilation under the home or perhaps the belly wrap (the plastic under your home) is damaged or has open holes.

  8. Hi, very informative website.

    I live in a 1996 double wide. I removed the garden tub from the master bath and for now I would like to make the area where the garden tub used to live into a ‘dressing area’. I plant to cap off the plumbing and drain line and leave them under the floor in case I decide to put in a tub or larger shower later. There was also a vent pipe in the garden tub area and I’m not sure how to handle it. Will it be okay to take the pipe down to underneath the floor or will messing with it upset the venting system in the bathroom? I’m a DIY’er so I’m not afraid to tackle this but I want to be sure to do it the proper way. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    • Hi Donna!

      Typically, each vent stack is tied in with the sinks and toilets closest to the vent to create a complete system so you’ll probably want to leave that alone. Capping it off will cause lots of issues. Good call on researching before you did anything – you’re doing DIY right!

      Best of luck!

      • Thank you so much for responding, but now I’m a little confused because there appears to be a vent pipe under the sink also. Since the pipe in question comes up from the floor where the garden tub was, I just assumed the vent stack was housed over by the shower since it is on the outside wall and the sink, shower and garden tub each have their own vent pipe. Is that a possibility. The reason I’m asking is the vent pipe where the garden tub was sticks up approximately 6 inches from the floor and 2 to 3 feet from the inside wall so it makes it a little difficult to work around. Would it be a good idea to question a plumber about how I can handle this issue? Thanks so much.

      • Hi Donna!

        Ventilation is the most complex aspect of plumbing so it is good idea to have someone look at it if at all possible. Depending on how your house is plumbed, there could be a vent for each thing or a vent that ties a couple of them together. It all depends on the plumber and the codes for your area.

        You have a few options to work with in situations like yours – there are two different types of vents available, dry vents and wet vents. A wet vent is when a single vent is used as a drain for one thing and a vent for another (say a drain for the sink and a vent for the tub). You can always reroute the vents, you just have to be sure everything has a vent. There are vents you can buy that are placed under your sink, they don’t require a roof pipe at all, and still help with odor and ventilation in the systems. Each part of the country has their own codes though so you’ll want to research for your area.

        Here’s a link to an auto/sink vent that may help you get rid of the vent stack completely (assuming the vent for the garden tub is tied into the sink):

        Best of luck! Hope that helps – I’m not very good at explaining things like this…

  9. Hi! Great website.
    We noticed a leak outside and plumber said it is caused by the a.c. Line. He said before he fixes it he wants a restoration company to prep the ground to avoid health issues. He quoted his part at $1700 and the restoration guy quoted $3000. This seems really high for a leak. I have a call in to my insurer. I’m fairly certain they won’t cover it but I’m hoping they can give me direction on how to handle the problem. I have also noticed strange smells and gurgling and banging sounds which I had assumed were coming from the water heater. We were going to replace the water heater with a tankless but now that this issue has come up its on the back burner for now. We live in Southern California and it has been crazy hot so the a.c. Has been on almost non stop. My husband feels it could be condensation. Do you have any ideas on how to go about this?

    Thank you!

    • Hi Eva!

      Unless CA has some weird environmental laws, I have no idea what a plumber would mean by needing a restoration guy to ‘prep the ground’ for health issues. That sounds suspect to me. In WV all we usually do is dig ditches and holes to the ground…lol. I’d probably call someone else and see what they say.

      A simple ‘leak’ in your AC is probably just condensation needing a better route/place to go (though I’m not familiar with AC’s- that’s just my best guess). If you can, email me a bit more info with exactly what needs to be restored and what health issues they may be referring to (I figure mold but if it’s not on any structure it should be easy enough to remedy). My email is I’ll help as much as can.

      Best of luck!

  10. HELLO Crystal,
    Have a 1984 Titan Double wide. Were on a well system in the county. I have good hot water pressure thought out my home. Poor to none cold water to the wash machine, both toilets don’t fill up, tub and showers poor to no cold water, sinks have good hot water but poor cold water pressure. Its seems like a clogged pipes? Can I just by pass what I have and run new pipes inside the house. Along the ceiling and cover it with crown molding? Any suggestions or advise to help me. Also do I have to place filter system to pipes to catch any deposits. Thank you

    • Hi Chickie,

      You can but I wouldn’t advise putting it along the ceiling. Running it under your home along the vents is preferable, you’d just stub at each point of use (sink, tub, toilets). This removes the possibility of leaks ruining wood and allows the vents to keep the lines from freezing.

      Good luck!

      • I would also like to know why you wouldn’t suggest running new lines along the ceiling? I have been pulling out my hair for over 5 years now! Every winter I get under my trailer and fix broken pipes like 5 or 6 times until I can’t take it anymore- it will wait till spring! I can’t go without water any more! My plan is to get rid of the cpvc pipes and go to pex. My thoughts are to run the pex mainly along the ceiling ( since heat rises- plus it would be the easiest way to run it) and box it in up there so it looks nicer. My other thought was running it under the trailer somewhat on the ground so that I wouldn’t have to worry about how I was going to attach it to the bottom of the trailer. Every time I went under there when fixing broken pipes I exposed more insulation so it’s hangin all over under there! Soooo.. I figgered my 2nd plan would be go with pex and put each line in piping insulation, and then wrap both in wall / floor insulation together- thinking that that would be good even if it was on the ground, if it had all that insulation.
        One of my other problems is that I don’t have a furnace, so there are no vents to help from freezing. Trailer was designed with just electric baseboard heat. Soo please reply asap as I ned to do this within the next day or two. Thank you!

      • Hi Jeannie,

        Running water lines through your ceiling or on top of your walls just pose a huge leak hazard. A single leak will likely cost hundreds, if not thousands, in damages to your walls, insulation, carpet, ceiling, etc.

        The ideal placement would be under the home, right beside your vents. However, since you don’t have vents your plumbing system would need to mimic a site-built home’s system (they typically don’t have venting ran under the home in a straight line like a manufactured home). Your skirting would need to be tight (with proper airflow), your lines need to be wrapped very well (with heat tape installed anywhere there is visible pipe), the lines need to be placed as close to the flooring as possible, and you will want to add insulation under the line and get a new belly wrap installed. Boxing the pipe in is another good way to keep them from freezing. It creates a smaller pocket of air and can be stuffed with insulation. Another step would be to add plastic sheeting on the ground under the home too. There’s a lot to it but each thing adds another layer of protection against freezing and it will all work together for stress-free winters. Oh, and attaching PEX under your home is very simple with J-hooks (50 of them run a couple dollars – you nail the hooks into the wood and then thread the PEX through the J part. It’s actually kinda fun to

        If it were me, I would do whatever was necessary to have the lines ran in the center under the home. If that’s not possible though, I would try to run them inside, on the bottom of the walls,boxed in like you mentioned. This will help keeps water and electricity from mixing and reduce the possibility of damaging the walls, ceiling, etc. should there be a leak. You may need to move your baseboard heating around though.

        It sounds like you have a sound plan. You probably have the grey pipe which has swelled and caused small hairline fractures so every time it freezes the line expands and you get leaks, especially at the connections and stress points.

        PS You do not want water lines ran on the ground at all.

        Best of luck to you. If you run into any issues just email at and I’ll be happy to help.

        Good luck!

  11. does anyone know a solution for why hot water would come out of the cold water in all sinks, showers, washing machine and toilets. I’ve drained the water heater twice with it off and had the pump unplugged without turning the water heater on. I plugged the pump back in. I had cold water for about 20 minutes then it came out steaming hot, still with the water heater turned off.

    Water heater does not have a check valve on it and I do not have any single lever faucets. For some crazy reason seems to possibly be coming into the house from the pump already hot.

  12. Hi Crystal,

    We are doing a major remodel on our master bath in out 1988 Fleetwood d/w mobile home. It has the grey pipes you are discussing in this article. The contractor did not think they needed replacing and they are close to closing the wall back up. Do we need to replace the pipes now?? Thanks so much!!

    • Hi Jan,

      If your plumber says they are fine I wouldn’t worry about it. Those pipe are still in use today in many homes, as long as you aren’t seeing any weaknesses in the couplings/joints you should be fine – that’s where the problems are and thankfully with manufactured homes there aren’t quite as many joints as in a site-built home.

      Thanks so much! Best of luck!

  13. Hi Crystal,

    I have been reading your site and it’s very informative. You help so many people. We live in a Manufactured home, been living here 23 years. Our Kitchen sink quit draining we had a plumber come out and snake. Nothing worked. My husband bought a 50 ft power snake and tried it also. Did not work. He took the pipes apart under the sink and replaced them still nothing. We also went to Lowes and purchase pretty expensive drain cleaner, still nothing. Please help.

    • Hello! You should have a shut off valve somewhere under your home directly under the exterior wall (so you don’t have to crawl under the home). Usually, it’s around the water hose connection (where you screw the water hose in) and close to wherever your water heater is in the home. Look around your back door. If you have skirting you’ll likely have a door or small opening so that you can reach it.

      Good luck!

  14. Hi, very helpful advice. I have a 92 Horton and a terrible smell coming from tub drain. Started when we fixed the leaky faucet(replaced), so I figured that the drizzling water was keeping a leaky trap full and keeping smell out. My son looked underneath bathroom and said there’s no water dripping, and trap pipe looks good but a vent attached to it was mangled looking. It’s very hard to get to and he has back issues, so I’m calling a plumber I guess since I’m not SURE the vent thing is the problem..what do you think? (The smell is definitely coming from tub drain and yesterday I saw tiny flies in tub! Poured Clorox in and am keeping the water dripping til I can get a plumber in) Thanks

  15. Hi! My Fiancé and I are remodeling a 1970’s Fleetwood single wide and we want to have a shutoff valve under the kitchen sink, as there isn’t one now. The water lines in place are thin tubing. Any suggestions on how to make a shutoff and protect my new cabinets? Any help is greatly appreciated.

  16. My wife and I own a Solitaire Megawide (18 X 76) on 10.5 acres. We’ve decided that we want to re-route the gray water to use for watering our garden and lawn and to take some stress off our septic system. All the plumbing is under the house covered by the underbelly fabric. I’ve done some plumbing stuff — running plumbing to an outside barn and a lot of repairs. I laid the water line from our well to the house. I once replaced the main sewer line in a previous home. I’m pretty sure that I can handle this job, but I’m a little skiddish about cutting into that fabric underneath the house to see just what I’m up against. Basically, I don’t want to make a mess of things. Any suggestions? Are there any publications that you would recommend?

    • Hi Bill! You are right to be a bit worried about cutting the belly wrap – it is very important! Luckily, you can buy wrap repair tape to fix any cuts that you need to make (warning: it’s a pain in the neck but it’s necessary so make the smallest cuts you can and have a helper ready to help you when the time comes to repair it). You may also be able to remove the staples used to attach the plastic to the perimeter of the home though that is a lot of work.

      As long as you tape the cuts and keep the plastic taught against the home’s bottom you should be OK.

      Good Luck!

  17. Hi,
    We have a big dilemma. Our manufactured home is 86 home. We had so many water leaks over the years . Which 85% time it enquired crawling under house to fix. All floors have been replaced over time from damage. We live in Illinois and it can get extremely cold and have had a few winters with busted Hot water heater and pipes. We now had our house , all new PEX with crimped fittings. We were under the impression plumber was going to put all new lines up in the underbelly and we looked and found they attached the PEX to the steel frame with zip ties. We called them and they said they would come back out and fix it the way we wanted. Now there are several places the underbelly has been torn into and you can see the ground from behind tub wall and behind other bathroom shower wall etc. They also just left the old water lines in there where they cut them. We are older and we don’t want to have more problems in the future and is why we wanted to get water lines all redone but we cant have water lines out in open under home .The mold is very strong in our home now with the underbelly barrier open. We actually found slugs coming into our bedroom from under hot water heater left open too and the mice have been terrible last couple years. We have a concrete block foundation with craw space. In past we had big tub freeze and crack and where the city water line comes up out of ground under home and connects to our home line bust so we insulated it.
    Question is, what is the best all around way to secure and protect these water lines for below ( -tempts) freezing ? Should they put these lines up into the underbelly where it is not exposed where it suppose to be? Also,our mold barrier underbelly that’s been ripped into and hanging in like 2-3 foot areas, what’s both easy for the plumber to take care of and trouble free and cost effective for us? We already paid them and only want this done right. All help is appreciated
    Thanks ,Debbie

    • Hi Debbie!

      I’ve always been taught that water lines in an area where it freezes should be installed as close to the vents as possible (in the middle or sides of the home), above the belly wrap. Attaching it to the chassis is fine, I suppose. Don’t worry about the old water lines, as long as they’ve been capped off at all the proper points, there’s no need to remove them. It’s just additional work and you’ll need to pay extra to haul them off.

      Your belly wrap must cover everything so you’ll need to have it patched or replaced. Have the water lines insulated and put above the plastic, they should have known better than that in the first place. The heat from the vents helps keep your lines from freezing in the winter and the belly wrap traps the heat under the home as well as acts as a vapor barrier. To be honest, I wouldn’t invite this plumber back – they clearly do not understand mobile home construction and how it all works.

      Your new plumber will need to decide the best option to insulate the new water lines (sleeve it or box it in), I can’t really tell you more without looking at it. Just make sure they get that belly wrap up – it is very important.

      Let me know how it goes! Good luck!

  18. How much should my water pressure be? I had it check it is at 110. I would like to know is this ok? Thankd

    • Hi Bridgitte!

      That’s a really great question! Pressure reducing valves are workhorses of the plumbing industry and do a lot for our homes. Most importantly, they keep the highly pressurized water from the water company from blowing out our valves and fittings while still giving us enough water pressure to get clean, but they are also finicky little things!

      Personally, I think 110 psi is a bit high. If you experience leaks or drips, or your water heater tends to go bad quickly, the pressure may be an underlying cause.

      If possible, try to lower it to around 65 and see how that works for you. If you don’t like it raise it by 5 till it suits you. Ideally, I’d say 70 psi is a good rate that will give you the cleaning power you want while still keeping your faucets and fittings healthy (I believe the valves are typically set around 60-65 from the factory but I’m not 100% on that).

      Thanks so much for reading MHL! I appreciate you!

  19. I have a 1987 Peachtreee double wide mobile home. Water is turned off until we visit for vacation or weekend stay. 3 bedrooms and 3 full baths. I cannot get water to flow into mobile home from water main. I can hear water running from the main and meter is running. There was a leak at the main and the county replaced the connections. Water is not flowing into any of the 3 sinks, kitchen faucets or 3 toilets and faucets in the bathrooms. Outside spigot has no water flow either. Checked water line in yards but could not detect leaks. No visible water leaks under home. Plumber came out last fall and replaced T joint and gray pipe because it ruptured. A full repiping placem ent was not done. Any suggestions of how to get water flow into home?

    • Hi Rudy!

      Since you have no water at your outside spigot or in the home I’m prone to think there is a stoppage in the line from the meter to the home. Unfortunately, most water companies make you responsible for everything past the meter.

      First, Unhook the main line going into the home and see if you have water. If none, your issue is underground. If you do have water, your issue will be in the house. If the problem is underground about the only thing you can do is find where the leak is. It could be a root entered the line or a simple break in an old line. You’ll need to decide whether you’ll just run new line or try to repair the old. Usually, if the line is old, it’s best to just lay new pipe.

      If the issue is in the home, you’ll want to flush your water heater and all the lines going to it first to make sure there are not stoppages.

      Good luck!

  20. I have a question about a garden tub in our master bath of a 94 doublewide home. We had it fixed once for this same problem and it wasn’t long before it messed up again. It leaks badly at the hot and cold water handles, making it impossible to use this tub.
    Would you recommend a solution for us that might work? Thank you so much. I really want to be able to use this garden tub again.

    • Hi Elizabeth!

      It’s probably time to get a new faucet. If you know how to replace the inner workings of a faucet that would be cheaper but usually it’s easier to just replace the whole thing. You should be able to buy a tub faucet for less than $50.

      The biggest obstacle will be replacing the old faucet with the new. In our house, we have to go through our 2nd bedroom’s closet to do it. Most manufactured homes have a similar set up, you’ll have an access door you take off to get to the tub workings. With yours being a garden tub, you may have to come up through the floor.

      Here’s manufactured home tub faucets at Mobile Home Supply (though you can go to Lowe’s and buy one – you’ll just need the right fittings):

      If you want to send photos of your tub we can take a look and give you better idea of what you’ll need to do. My email is crystaladkins @ (just delete the spaces).

      Thanks so much!

  21. My daughter and I moved into a 2010 mobile home a couple of months ago. Today I came home to tons of air in our water lines! Why? The water had never been turned of.

    • Hi Kathy!

      It sounds like you either have a leak somewhere or if you’re on city water they may have had a line break or leak and when they fixed it air entered the line. You should be able to call your water company and ask.

      If you have well water you may have a leak and the bladder tank is allowing the air to build up.

      Can you email me at and I’ll have my husband text you. Thanks so much!

  22. My hubby and i came home today to the sound of running water under our mobile home. upon removing the skirting we see hot water in a steady drain from our hot water heater… where do we even start with this project?? we dont have the money to call a professional so any help would be appreciated.

    • Hi Kimberlee!

      It sounds like you’ve either got a busted pipe or joint, or your water heater rusted out. Replacing either one is a fairly simple job. If you can turn a screw-driver you can do it yourself!

      If you want us to walk you through the process just email me at crystaladkins(@) (take the parentheses out) and I’ll give you my cell number. We can text you through it.

  23. Thank you so much for this article my fiance and I just purchased a very old mobile home for less than 3000 were completely changing everything but haven’t yet turned on the water I’ve already run into a lot of problems with walls and etc which I expected but this article is awesome never heard of pex at all so I’ll be doing a lot of researching thanks again

    • Hi Adrian!

      PEX will be the absolute easiest and cheapest method for you to re-plumb your home. I promise! It has completely revolutionized the entire plumbing industry. Just grab the correct sized Sharkbite connectors and run it under the home. You’ll be all set!

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  24. Hey Crystal,I am replacing a tub j drain trap in our mobile home. The universal threaded trap I bought fits on the tub side but not the drain side. Is there a special mobile home trap I need to buy? Thanks, Tom (retired at the beach)

  25. Hi, I really enjoy reading your site. The other night, temps went down into the single digits so I let my faucets run but I only let the cold water run not the hot. Yesterday morning I woke up with no hot water. Cold water comes out of all the hot water taps. Cold taps work fine. I don’t hear any type noise coming from the hot water heater. I’m scared to open the access panel to do the reset button cause I thought I heard something in there. Don’t know if its frozen lines or the hot water heater. Your opinion is highly appreciated.

    • Howdy!

      First, you should check your breaker and make sure it hasn’t kicked. Kick on if it has. If that’s not the problem your element probably needs replaced. You can replace the elements fairly easy but you will have to open that access panel.

      If those don’t work let me know and we’ll go to the next step. You could have your cold water bleeding into your hot water line but let’s take it one step at a time.

      Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

    • Hi Pam! You may want to check the line around the water heater. Usually your main water line breaks into 2 lines, one that goes to your water heater and the other is your cold water line. Sometimes the cold water will catch sediment (whereas the water tank catches whatever goes through it) and it clogs up.

      Good luck!

  26. I live in a double-wide manufactured home for five years now. Last night the temp. was below 10 degrees. I woke this morning without the cold water but the hot water seemed fine. It is well water supplied by community pumps, not city water. I had a new HW heater installed back in September by a certified contractor who also installed new heat tape from the meter well about 1 foot below ground to the HW heater. the heat tape has been working fine. We have had temps. like this many times. I am curious as to why I am still getting the hot water. I thought you still need pump pressure from the supply line. Any Ideas? Thanks

    • Hi Pat,

      It sounds like the T to the cold line (close to your water heater) is freezing. You have 1 main line that goes into your water heater but there’s a T before the water heater for your cold water. Look for that T and follow it under the home – that’s where you’ll need to add your heat tape or insulation.

      Good luck! Let me know how it goes!

  27. Thank you very much Crystal. Water damage to my mobile caused water shutoff to my kitchen for 4 months in the meantime roof replacement,ceiling in 4 rooms replacement, drywall in 2 rooms replacement, vinyl flooring replacement in kitchen, and laminate to be replaced in dinning room. Now here is my problem, r
    I had the leaky hoses replaced under the sink in the kitchen I decided not to put the dishwasher back. The leaks are gone I have running water, but I have this horrible stinch in the kitchen and it sounds like scratching in my walls first it was on the repair side of the house now alternate on both sides. The odor became so bad 4 days after we had water we left the house after raising 5 windows in the house. I returned the odor comes and goes and I haven’t heard the scratching noises. Please help. Asap

    • Hi Beverly!

      It sounds like you have an open sewer pipe or a ventilation issue. When you had your dishwasher uninstalled did the drain to the dishwasher get capped too? Maybe the dishwasher’s drain was accidentally left open. All you’ll need to do is find that and cap it like you did the water lines.

      If its not an open waste line from the dishwasher, then it’s possibly a ventilation issue. The noise could be your pipes and that usually means the system isn’t able to breathe properly. You can either look for a broken vent line (poor glue jobs, settling, or accidental cutting are the usual culprits when it comes to disconnected ventilation lines) or you can try installing an under-the-sink Studor vent. It will act as a mini-vent and help rid your home of the odor.

      My money is on the dishwasher drain assuming you had none of these issues until the dishwasher was disconnected.

      Let me know how it goes and if you have any other questions just holler. Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  28. Hi. I have to replace the heat tape on my water line. My water line is now laying on the ground. The maintenance guys told me that I have to hang the line up before putting on new heat tape. Could you tell me how high the line has to be? Could I just raise it a few inches? The water line also runs under the sewer drain(which I just fixed). Do I have to unhook it and run it above the sewer drain?

    • Hi Holly!

      If it isn’t possible to bury your main water line, use Arma Flex insulation (with the glue strip) and wrap the pipe then use straps to hang the pipe to keep it off the ground. The pipe should never touch the ground and using the insulation will probably keep you from having to use the heat tape (lower power bills!). There’s a lot more to it but I’m simplifying it. Of course, local codes will have to be met.

      If it’s the hot/cold pipe running from the water heater to the faucets/tub/etc. then buy some J-hooks or straps and use those to attach your water line under your home as close to the heating ducts as possible. You won’t want any of the pipe resting on the ground.

      Ideally, your main water supply will run from the ground straight up to the water heater. From there, the hot and cold lines will be ran under the home beside the heating ducts (above the insulation and plastic barrier) or as close as possible to the middle of the home so the heat from the ducts keeps it from freezing.

      If your plastic barrier is in a whole piece try to remove just enough to find a joist to attach it to (without damaging the plastic, you’ll have to reattach it after you’re finished getting the water lines up). You can also use straps if you find it easier to strap the lines to a joist.

      Sioux Chief Talons can be used to attach the pipe to the joists. Here’s a link to show you what they look like:

      Here’s what the Arma Flex pipe insulation looks like:

      Hope that helps! Good luck!

  29. We have decided to renovate a bathroom in our double-wide, gutting it completely, getting rid of the plastic tub and sink and putting in something different. We have decided to install a overflow drain for the tub but are having difficulties attaching to the existing pipes as the tub drain is “T’d” into the vent which goes up and out of the roof. Can we cut into the vent and have the overflow drain into it? Gravity will pull the water down but we certainly don’t want to compromise the vent. I love your website! You are helping us to be mobile home proud!

    • Hi Melissa!

      I want a bathroom makeover! Lucky! I spoke to my husband and he drew a diagram of how the overflow would ideally be installed into the system. It seemed a bit too complicated to write it all out.

      We weren’t sure if you are using glue or compression fittings (he likes glue better) so he added the transition fitting in case you use compression to go straight into the T. If you’re using glue you’ll be using a coupling instead of a trap adapter. Of course, you’ll need additional fittings to get it inline with the existing T (22’s, 45’s, or 90’s and/or couplings).

      If you have any problems just let us know or send us an image and we’ll go from there. Thanks so much for reading MHL!

  30. Our doublewide was made in l998. We’re on a well. It is snowing and quite
    cold. Our kitchen sink tap occaisionally spits a little air; but basically the water
    is coming in ok. Both toilets seem to refill quickly after each flush; but the
    bathroom taps for the sinks have now such lowered water pressure that there is
    only a tiny stream of water from either of them.
    They are both on the same side of the home, with a bedroom in between.

    Your advice will be appreciated.
    Thank you,

    Dave Bray

    • Hi Dave!

      Sorry it took so long to answer you – I didn’t see your comment!

      If neither your hot and cold is getting proper pressure you may want to check your aerator first (the screen at the tip of the faucet). Dirt and small particles get trapped and since it seems to be happening with both the hot and cold it just about has to be in your faucet. If your aerator is clean, try a new faucet. You should be able to get one for about $15.

      Also, if you are getting air in your lines then you may have a small leak somewhere from the expansion tank to your house that is allowing air to enter your line. You may want to look for drips or leaks or soggy ground around your line. Leaks usually get worse with time so you’ll want to find it and repair it before it gets worse.

      You are so lucky! I loved our well water growing up, we had the best water on the east coast and it spoiled me – I can’t stand city water at all now!

      Just let me know if you have any more questions – my direct email is (it’s usually faster to email me). Thanks for reading Mobile Home Living – I appreciate you!

  31. thank you very much for your reply. I had a plumber come and check it all he did was put a brass 90 degree shark bite on it and its held ever since. He said that my girlfriends dad put the plastic screw on type and theres an insert that you put inside the grey hose that he did NOT put which caused it not to tighten properly but so far so good. If I ever have another problem I will definitely contact you on this website. THANK YOU for your time.

  32. (AWESOME WEBSITE) Hi my name is jeromy not the same jeromy above lol. this morning my girlfriend was taking a shower and all of a sudden I heard water gushing from under the house so I ran outside and turned the main water off. their was water everywhere. Her dad came to see what the problem was (i had to work) he saw a pipe cracked and had detached above where the main water shut off valve is. he replaced the pipe and put a new fitting even insulated it. her son was taking a shower about 3 hours ago and boom water gushing again??? this time I burned the crap out of my hand and arm because like I said, the water was coming from right above the main shut off valve and it was dark. should’ve took a flashlight but it was a fast reaction. but im not sure if its the same pipe he fixed but do you think maybe we have to much pressure. any advice will be greatly appreciated

    • Hi Jeromy!

      Sorry your having issues! Could you tell me what type of pipe you have and also if the shut off valve is under the home? Was it water that burned you?

      The most common cause of water lines bursting like that is if your water has frozen, especially if it is CPVC. If your water is extremely forceful you may want to check the pressure reducing valve.

      When repairing the pipe make sure to use teflon tape and pipe dope in threaded fittings.

      Sorry we couldn’t be more specific!

  33. I am renting an older mobile home that has the vent pipes under the kitchen and bathroom sinks. There is also one in the bedroom closet. First, I was wondering what that vent in the closet is for? Second we have been having sewer smell in the home. It was coming from the closet with the vent so we replaced the vent. We are still smelling it from time to time but it doesn’t seem to be as strong in the closet. Seems to happen more when we are doing laundry but that’s not the only time it happens. Any ideas?

  34. Hi! I have been in my mobile home 12 years. It was brand new.
    All of a sudden last week when doing laundry our water was draining from the washer & coming up into the tub. now both toilets and tubs are full of dirty & clean water. HELP! I cannot afford a plumber. Is there a way to do this myself? Any advice on the least expensive way, even if something temporary until next month when I can afford to pay someone to look at it. Thanks!

    • Hi Melanie,

      It sounds like you have a stoppage somewhere in your line too. The best remedy would be snaking or jetting the line to clear the blockage.

      You may be able to rent a ‘professional’ snake from an industrial supply center and jet it yourself (be sure to research on the proper way to do it). You can also buy a small snake for $30 at Lowes here but to be honest those are only going to work for small blockages in the sinks and tub pipes. Since you’re experiencing back-flow it’s probably going to be in your main line under the home or in the line from your home to the main sewage line – your waste simply doesn’t have anywhere to go so it backs up. There could be a ventilation issue but if this just started and you haven’t had any bad odor or weird noises it’s most likely going to be a blockage.

      Trying Draino or some other drain cleaner may work – it could be worth a try – but those usually only work for small blockages. Root killer could be another remedy you might want to try (to be honest though, neither is going to work if it is a large blockage).

      You’ll want to hire a plumber that owns their own jet machine so make sure to ask before you hire them. If they have to rent the machine it’s going to cost more.

      Sorry to be the bearer of bad news! Keep us informed and let us know if you have any issues. My email is – we can help walk you through the steps if you do rent your own machine.

      Good luck!

  35. We have a 2000 mobile home double wide. When I drain the garden tub water comes up in the toilet and all the plumbing fixtures. I put baking soda and white vinegar in them and thought it was fixed. Today I ran the washing machine and it did the same thing when it drained. A plumber came out and snaked it from the roof and that didnt work. He said the clean out is under the trailer in the middle . Now what?

    • Hi Charmaine!

      It sounds like you need to have a jet machine put through the whole system – you probably have a stoppage in the main line somewhere, possibly outside the house (especially if it doesn’t happen as much or as bad if there is a bit of time between draining your tub, faucets, or washer). You could have roots invading your line or it could be regular ole drainage stoppage.

      A plumber should be able to find the clean out under the home (assuming there is one) or just cut into the line, jet it, and then reattach it. I don’t think there’s going to be home remedy but you can try draino or root killer – that may work.

      Good luck – let us know what happens and if you have any more questions!

  36. Sounds great! I want to get started on that this weekend! Now that my home is stripped down, I’m going to take some photos for “Before and After” purposes so I can share them when it gets closer to being a completed project. I’m sure I’ll have many more questions for you and the community as the process unfolds, ESPECIALLY when I get started on the bathroom. Thanks again for all that you do!

  37. very helpful article!! Thanks so much for providing such a handy website for the manufactured home community!! I own a 1983 Peachtree 14×70 single wide that I am in the process of restoring. The inside of the home is stripped completely out, all the way down to the particle board sub-floor. It still has the original polybutylene plumbing in place. I want to re-plumb the home before I get too deep into the restoration. Is it best to just bypass the existing PB plumbing and run all new hot and cold pex lines from the water inlet line to the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry area? Should I run the pex under the subfloor from the inside or just go underneath the home, run the pex under the belly tarp and then insulate the lines? I was told by another mobile home owner that I should avoid cutting the belly tarp if at all possible as they are difficult to patch and re-seal properly. The home is located in an established park in the United States, desert southwest area. Temperatures here rarely drop below freezing, even during the coldest winters. I’ve never done ANY plumbing so I am currently stumped as to the best approach for this project. Most plumbers in this town refuse to work on mobile homes and the few that will do it charge a much higher rate for labor on mobiles as opposed to site-built homes. Any info you could share with me would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks for all that you do!!

    • Hi Randall!

      Thank you so much for the kind words! I appreciate you so much!

      It is usually easier to just run all new PEX throughout the home. You can use shark-bites and be done with the whole home in a day! I would run it under the home on one side (whichever side your water heater is on) and either box it in or bundle it together and strap it to the underbelly and protect it somehow,(there’s foam covers that may work good for you) if your area gets below-freezing temps. If you don’t ever get freezig temps you probably won’t have to get too wrapped up in trying to protect the lines (get it? wrapped up? lol).

      You got some very good information about the belly tarp – if possible keep from tearing it or moving it at all because patching it is difficult and the tarp is very important for the health of the home. I have heard that it is easier these days to patch them then it used to be – I guess the patching kits have improved a lot in the last few years.

      I’m positive you can do this on your own and won’t need a plumber at all. They are awful expensive! If you have any problems or issues as you go just email me at and I’ll do my best to help – my hubby is a master plumber and he gives me a good rate…lol

      Good luck!

  38. I believe i have a ventilation line issue, after reading your information. I have water that is draining from washer coming out of roof. Could you tell me how to fix this problem?

    • Hi Shiela! You may have a stoppage in your drain line from your washer where the water has no where else to go but up and out. See if you can borrow or buy a snake (its a long metal hose that you put down in the pipe and turn a handle to make it longer, you can buy a small one for less than $30 at Lowes).

      I think that will fix you right up but if you need anything else just let me know. Good luck!

  39. Great site, we have a 1994 Fleetwood with the grey pipe, never had a problem (knock wood) but now the shower is dripping from the shower head. We have replaced the valves & seats in the past & the dripping stopped, this time with new valves & seats both generic & Phoenix brand the drip increased….called plumber & he wouldn’t even look at it to see if maybe my husband did something wrong, just wanted to cut the wall in my bedroom open & also cut fiberglass in shower stall & replace with Moen valve assembly to the tune of $850….this cost us $59 for that bit of devastating news. We put the old stuff back in & the drip diminished to almost very little as it was when we started. I don’t understand (1) why the new parts make it worse (they are same as old) & (2) why we were not offered any alternative to a total in the wall replacement.
    Thanks for any advice.

  40. Hey Crystal,
    I have a 1996 General double wide mobile home and I noticed water damage to some of the walls in the home in 2008. I had a plumber come out and he said that I don’t have any water pipes on the side of the house where the water damage is. He had me turn on the water while he was under the home to check for leaks on the opposite side of the house where the pipes are at and he said there were no leaking pipes. He suggested that it may be coming from the roof so I had a new roof put on in 2010. The areas where the water damage is is still wet. So I had another plumber come out and he could not find a leak either. The water damage is in 3 rooms of the house and it starts where the carpet meets the wall and goes up about 6 to 8 inches. There is a hot water heater in one of the bedrooms and that bedroom is adjacent to the rooms that contain the water damage. Any ideas or suggestions on where the leak is coming from would be greatly appreciated.

    • Hi Anita!

      I think you are experiencing humidity condensation from the ceiling or under the home. Believe it or not, condensation can often look and act just like a leak and produce enough moisture to rot walls and flooring. Make sure there are at least a couple of vents that allows air circulation to get to the area between your original roof and the interior ceiling. Sometime the vents aren’t properly setup during installation or sometimes when a new roof is added the installers cover over them accidentally. Are you seeing any warping in the ceilings anywhere? Maybe a little bow somewhere?

      That would be my guess if plumbing was ruled out as well as any possibility of leaks occurring from the roof or windows (or gutters). There’s also a chance that it could just be faulty, or no, exterior sheathing. My father bought a 1986 double wide brand new and when they delivered it it didn’t have one bit of exterior sheathing. It was vinyl siding, studs, and insulation…lol He assumed that it was a standard option but found out that it wasn’t. Lesson learned I

      It has to be something causing the damage, if the plumber checked the water heater, and all the lines are on the other side, then I would have to say its either condensation or water getting under the siding somehow (at the roof, widows, doors, etc). It could be entering at one side of the home and following along horizontal stud till finally appears at the carpet line. It could also be condensation under the home (if the vapor barrier under the home is ripped or torn, condensation can collect under the flooring).

      It really could be anything but I would look into the condensation above or below and a leak somewhere that’s allowing rain in. Good luck!

  41. Is the water line running in the belly skirt? Or underneath? We came home today to find water under the laminate flooring in the kitchen, not pouring out, but when you step on the laminate some squeezes out through the cracks. It seems to me that if the pipes are leaking then the water would leak into our crawlspace not up into the house.

    • Debbie,

      Yes, most water lines in manufactured homes run under the home but the water lines come up through the floor and connect to your faucet. Please look under your kitchen faucet or dishwasher for the leak. That connection may very well be the problem.

      If you’ve experienced a lot of snow or rain, if could be a leak around doors or windows. (The heat from the home could be melting the snow on the roof and traveling down a wall). You’ll want to shut your water off immediately either at the connection point, usually where your water hose connects outside or at the meter or well/pump. If it’s that bad (and that’s a pretty bad leak if it’s squeezing out) then your sub-flooring and walls will get water-logged and weaken the wood or it could cause mold issue later on. First, find the leak and fix it. Then lift the laminate and soak up as much water as possible and point fans to it. You don’t want the water to ‘sit’ on the wood for very long.

      So sorry you are experiencing this! If you need specific help please send me an email to and we’ll do our best to get you pointed in the right direction. Good luck!

    • Hi Brenda!

      Sorry you’re having issues! There’s got to be an underlying cause for the broken pipes – usually it’s either the pipes were faulty from the get go, their just old, the pressure is too high from the main line or the pipes are freezing and busting.

      If it’s an older home or the pipes are just faulty, you’ll probably just need to re-pipe the entire home. It will save a lot of time, money and frustration over just fixing the leaks as they happen.

      You could do it yourself for less than $100-150 in material. A roll of PEX with the proper fittings is about all you need – they make fittings that you just push into the pipe and they also make transitional fittings so you won’t have to replace your faucets connections. One day of labor should do it! Run the pipe as close to the middle of the home as possible and insulate it well, that should help with freezing. If your water has very high pressure, you might want to look at your pressure reducing valve. It lowers the pressure from the main water line before it goes into your home. The pressure is very high from the main line and if it’s not reduced or controlled it will cause the connections to fail quicker.

      If you have any specific issues just let me know! I’ll do my best to help. Good luck!

    • I’m glad it helped. I really need to learn to write better If you have any specific questions or just need some advice, just comment back and we’ll do our best to help.


      • Yes, I need help. I own the mobile home, but not the land and the landlord has told me to fix my leaky galvanized pipes or he will shut the water off to my mobile completely. I have to do this myself and I’m not a strong female, but I am a determined one. My question is .. How do I get the galvanized pipe off this mobile home?? I have to replace it with PEX – but the pipe was done in 1969 and it’s really wrenched on to connections. Can I cut it?? I can’t possibly cut thru it with a hacksaw, I’m not that strong… any ideas. It’s getting late in the year and the snow will fly soon and I will not have any water.
        Thanks so much

      • You can cut it Penny! If you have access to a sawzall that would probably be your best bet, there are blades you can buy just for the pipes that will saw right through them.

        You shouldn’t have too hard a time installing the PEX. It’s great for DIY beginners and you just about can’t go wrong with water lines. Look into using the shark bites for the PEX, you can just hand tighten them and get a good seal – I think they are the best invention ever! Now, if you have to replace the drain lines too, that could pose a bit of a hassle but nothing you can’t handle!

        My email address is If you need anything just email me directly -my husband is a master plumber and we’ll be happy to help you and walk you through it all. Together we can make sure you have water!


      • Due to flooding, our belly bag and pink insulation was damaged. We had to remove it all. We decided to spray foam the underneath. Since then, a prospective buyer informed us that in the event of a plumbing leak, the water would have no where to go and would travel upwards into our flooring and we would not realize it until it was too late. Could this possibly be true? Thank you for any help you can give. Lee

      • Hi Lee,

        That’s a possibility, I suppose. Just be proactive and check for leaks routinely. If you can poke a hole or two around your water fixtures (especially toilets and baths) you could give the water an escape route and a way to detect leaks. Plus, whenever there is a leak that wasn’t detected quickly you can almost guarantee that flooring will need to be replaced anyway, especially if its original particle board sub-flooring, that stuff just soaks the water up like a sponge. I think you’ll be OK.

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