Mobile Home Roof Over Designs Metal Installed Over Home

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  1. If I do a roofover, can I think have higher ceilings on the inside. The trailer has a 7 foot ceiling height. I would hope the roofover means I can raise the ceiling when completed.

    1. Hi Sharon,

      Unfortunately, you cannot increase the ceiling’s height without compromising the entire home’s structural integrity. I’ve been told that mobile and manufactured homes have ‘top-down’ constructional integrity which means that the home is essentially held together by the roof joists. If you modify those you risk damaging the entire home. Of course, anything is possible with enough money and resources but I don’t recommend even trying it.


  2. Is a stand alone roof over considered a structural change to a mobile home? I live in an area that’s trying to get rid of mobile homes so they don’t allow any structural changes to be made to a mobile home.

  3. I need my home repaired. My The roof,deck,shed skirting all needs replaced. I own a 1986 Carlton.

  4. Chrystal, this site is amazing. I am struggeling with my house since a while. I am planning to put a lean on roof up. I have a 14 x 52 with this half round type of roof from 1982. The highest pitch is 11′ since we lifted that house on railroad tie ramps. I ordered already 6x6x14 … and now .. here is the struggle, I can’t handle them myself, since I am a one-woman-show. My horseshelters were no problem, I used 4x4s there. So here is the question, if I use 4x4s every 6 feet as perimeter, could that carry the roof? I want a max 1′ sloope since I am standing pretty good in the wind here, so there is never snow piled up on my horse shelters. My other struggle: posts better in the ground, or on concrete footings? I want to add an addition as well then, kinda mudroom and some more, for which I wanted to built a framing then inbetween the perimeter posts, which should give additional stability. I am german, and my brain is cooking since a while over this. I just don’t want to attach anything on the framing structure of the house itself, it is meant to be a shell, leaving the house alone. Just the back door needs to be somehow integrated with probably a ton of weatherstrips. Any suggestions??

    1. Wow! Your one-woman show is a blockbuster! It sounds like you know what you’re doing much better than I ever could. You def won’t want to attach anything to the home itself. As far as footers, all I know is that they should be straight and below the frost line. With load, it all depends on the weight and span and that’s over my head. I would contact a builder or two and have them estimate what it would cost and how they think you should go about it.
      I think with your experience and tenacity you’ll do just fine! Please take pics along the way – I’d love to share it when you’re finished!

  5. How do I figure out if my double wide will hold a top hat roof over or a pole barn style instead? (Top hat is just putting a roof on top of the existing one.) My plan is to attach 2×8’s to the top side rail then, attach metal holders for the trusses. the center would have two 2×10’s with a plywood center sandwiched in-between. Which would allow me to attach the other side of the trailers rafters. Then run 2×4’s between the rafters to link them , then plywood on top with tarpaper and finally a tin roof. I have a 1975 titan double wide with a roof that has to be completely repaired.

    1. Hi Ed,

      I’m not very knowledgeable about roofing but I think there is a formula that takes the size of the roof trusses, sidewall framing, and another number to come up with the live and dead load per square inch. Unfortuantely, I don’t know what that formula is or if I’m even correct (hopefully, someone else can answer).

  6. I’m thinking about adding framing on top of my shingled 99 2×4 mobile home to get ventilated soffit and over hang. Also open the roof and add blown in insulation. But even with 2×4 walls, I’m more concerned with the cantilevered floor joists holding the weight. Every mobile home Ive been in has crowned floor joints because the weight of the home is unsupported on the side walls because the frame isn’t under them.

    1. Hi Mike,

      Outriggers are vital for roofing construction that will be adding more weight. However, you should be able to do everything you want assuming you keep the weight down. Eaves are one of the best things you can add to a manufactured home, it protects the siding from rain and snow and gives the home a more site-built look. I’ve heard about sidewall reinforcement but adding posts for the roof would be probably be easier.

  7. I have a 1972 Silvercrest double-wide. The roof has had problems with leaks ever since I purchased it in 2001. Last year I finally bit the bullet and paid about $12K for a foam roof to be sprayed directly on top of the original metal roof. So far it has survived 2 rainy seasons without any leaks. I am hoping for a decade or longer without problems.

      1. Hi Larry, I would like to share my thoughts on foam roofing. I am 3rd generation family construction, renovation, remodeling (aprox: 50 years). Although we built houses and did complete remodels my passion has been in roofing and enjoyed the challenge. I became seriously involved with newer roofing materials including spray coats, and PUF (poly urethane foam) and invested in full service applications in the mid 80’s. It makes a remarkable roof system if installed correctly and properly maintained. PUF roofing is not new (although some sales people present it like it was just invented). Basically it is combining chemicals and custom manufacturing Styrofoam on site.
        Closed cell foam with encapsulated air is very tight (gap free) seamless, lightweight, strong, waterproof, and an excellent insulation. I have done many projects from small manufactured homes to large commercial buildings (the largest was a Ford factory) using PUF roofing.
        The downside of foam is exposure to outside elements is destructive to PUF. It is imperative to protect it from being damaged and causing pre-mature failure. Ultra Violet Radiation is destructive. Since the roof area get plenty of damaging UV sun ray’s it need to be protected. The good news is that roof coatings have evolved to a high level efficiency. Modern protective emulsion coatings can be sprayed or rolled on over the Foam and protect it from deterioration and crystallization. I gave my roofs an exclusive 10 – 20 year warranty if the customer participated in a maintenance program. Since emulsified coating have evolved a great deal over the year and PUF is very popular I am certain they have obtained a very long lifespan. With proper application, it is probably one of the best roof systems available today. Once installed I would highly recommend a white protective elasticize emulsion coating with a high UV resistance rating. A Fiber Aluminum coating could be used, however I do not believe it would last as long or work as well as the modern elasticize emulsion coating that are available. Although foam applications have gone up in price, I feel you made a great choice. The insulation, and the watertight coverage is hard to beat. Your energy saving and comfort should speak for itself that you made a wise choice! Closed cell foam is probably one of the most efficient and beneficial insulation made. A thin styro cup stops the transfer heat of steaming hot coffee and can save someone form seriously being burned, If I remember correctly just 1″ = R-6 (or more), has no gaps, and provides a watertight vapor barrier! (3.5″ of fiberglass is less than R-13). Please excuse the long winded comment. Like I stated, I have a passion for roofing, and pursued education in energy efficiency and renewable resources. I like to share information that may be helpful to others. Hope this info was helpful you and possibly many more that are interested.
        One final word of advice, the application of foam, especially on roof applications can be a difficult task that is unforgiving if not done properly from start to finish, It can be a disaster if not done with precision and accuracy that a person with knowledge and experience has. I highly recommend the product, however I also recommend careful vetting/ screening of the contractor doing the service.

  8. This is one of the most interesting articles I have ever read concerning the flexibility of improving mobile homes. Just “sad” that I did not read it two years ago before I replaced the roof that Hurricane Irma removed from my home. Please keep up the good work posting articles like this one.