The most asked question from mobile home owners is how to deal with the faux wood paneling or vinyl coated walls in mobile homes. Practically every model has them and each manufacturer apparently use their own special brand of the vinyl on gypsum, or VOG panels. Colors and patterns vary drastically, some have a plastic coating and some only a glossy paper coating.  All have the strips or battens that cover the seams of the panels and nobody really knows how to update them. In this article, we’ll cover the most popular options used to update mobile home walls, as well as particular issues you need to to know for each option. We’ll also go over step-by-step instructions for painting mobile home walls.

5 Ways to Cover Vinyl Coated Walls in Mobile Homes

There’s several different ways you can handle the vinyl walls, from painting to papering. Here’s 6 most popular methods of transforming the walls:

  • Paint the walls.

Painting is the easiest and cheapest method to cover the patterned walls. You’ll be amazed at what a single color, as opposed to an outdated pattern, can do for a room. See below for step-by-step instructions and tips.  texture walls using stencil

  • Texture the walls.

Texturing is the easiest way to be able to remove the strips that cover the seams of the panels and make it blend in with the rest of the wall.  There’s several different texturing methods you can use and different tools available to achieve your desired texture. Drywall compound and the stucco texture is used most often because it’s easy to get, easy to work with and easy to clean up. It’s also affordable. You can go with simple textures, like stucco, sand or orange peel, or complex textures that add a 3D design to the wall. You can also use stencils to make raised textures that look great. The following websites provide great step-by-step instructions for texturing walls and stenciling walls with compound:

WikiHow: How to Texture Walls Domestic Diva: Raised Wall Art Trees PlumDoodles: Faux Bricks Using Drywall Mud

faux brick using drywall mud

 

One of our favorite websites, My Hearts Song, shares step by step details about how they removed the strips and added an orange peel texture to their single wide mobile home walls. If removing the strips is your main priority and you want to texture your walls lightly, then you’ll definitely want to check it out. Geneva, the owner, has a great question and answer section, too.

  • Wallpaper over the walls.

Remove the strips (battens) and hang. Wallpapering is not easy to hang, so get a pattern that can be matched easily. Research on the best hanging methods before you start.

  • Use Fabric, tile, or mirrors to cover the walls.

There’s plenty of industrial adhesive on the market that will work, depending on what you’re using. Just about anything can be used, even paper!

Local codes vary when it comes to using sheet rock or dry wall in mobile homes, so be sure to check before you start. Weight is an issue with mobile homes, not only due to transporting, but also because some older homes have 1×3 framing and it just can’t hold the weight without bowing or sagging. Preferably, you’ll use Ultra Light Sheet Rock, but you may also be able to use a 3/8″, or perhaps 1/2″ thick, if your framing can handle it.

In an ideal drywall situation, you will replace the ceiling before the walls are installed. This is especially true if you are using sheet rock or drywall to replace your ceiling as well as the walls. The new ceiling will be installed first because the wall will act as a support for the ceiling. If your ceilings are fine, or you have already replaced them, you have nothing to worry about.

If you will be re-wiring the home and moving the outlets and switches, it’s probably easiest to completely remove the original walls. Take this opportunity to add additional insulation and inspect your wiring, while you have the chance. If you plan on replacing the doors or windows go ahead and do it before or during the sheet rock installation. You can also use this time to add proper headers for the window framing if your home does’t have them.

If you aren’t re-wiring the home or moving the outlets and you’re satisfied with the home’s insulation, then add the sheet rock over the original paneling, it’s an additional insulator and less work. There are box extensions you can buy to extend the outlets. Use quite a bit of glue as well as screws (into the studs only) to reduce cracking. Getting the cuts correct for windows, doors and corners can be frustrating so plan on using trim or crown molding to your advantage.

Bead-board is installed over the wall and nailed into the studs. Some people install it over the entire wall and some only install it halfway up or to chair-rail height. Add a finishing trim to the edges. You will have to remove the strips or battens under the bead-board installation so there’s no bowing or sagging. If you like the cottage look, this is a perfect option for you. 

How to Paint Vinyl Coated Walls in Mobile Homes

Painting the vinyl coated walls in mobile homes is the most affordable, and perhaps the easiest, option you can choose. Many mobile homeowners have painted their walls with great success but it seems everyone that has been successful followed a certain process and had the same advice to share.

1. The first and most important step is to properly clean your walls.

Paint and primer will not stick to dirty walls. You may not even realize how dirty your walls can get and may think they are ‘clean enough’ but their not and that’s nothing against your housekeeping abilities. Smoke from cooking, dander from pets,  and various airborne particles from the furnace and air conditioner naturally stick to walls.

Some homeowners used expensive cleaners and some just used dish detergent. It doesn’t really matter what you use as long as there’s a cleaning agent of some sort involved. The most important things is that every inch of the wall is wiped thoroughly at least two times and allowed to dry. You want the primer and paint to bond to every part of the wall so its essential that there’s nothing between the wall and primer or paint.

2. Purchase top quality primer and paint or paint with primer in it. 

The number one piece of advice, that can’t be stressed enough, is to buy the highest quality paint you can. This is not the time to go cheap or be frugal (unfortunately). At the bottom of the article is a list of primers and paints that have been used successfully to paint mobile home walls by several homeowners.

3. Use high quality brushes and rollers to apply the paint.

This is another popular recommendation from those that have painted their mobile home walls successfully. High quality brushes and rollers transfer the paint to the walls better and give a more uniform finish which is exactly what you need.

4. Several light coats are better than thick, heavy coats.

It’s always better to paint in several light coats instead of one or two heavy coats. The paint will dry faster and the finish will be more uniform and smooth.

What kind of paint do you use for mobile home walls?

This is probably the trickiest part of the whole job. Go to 3 different paint stores and I guarantee you will hear 3 different things. We do know that lower sheen paints bond better than gloss or semi-gloss paints and you want the best bond possible so the paint doesn’t peel. That’s another reason why cleaning the walls is so important. Below is a list of products that we know for a fact work well on mobile home walls. They are listed in no particular order.

Best primers to use on mobile home walls:

  • Kilz Primer
  • Zinnser 123
  • Gliddin Gripper
  • Xium Uma
  • Valspar Bonding Primer

Best paint brands to use on mobile home walls:

  • Behr Premium Plus Ultra
  • Glidden Performance Edge Fill + Prime + Paint
  • Sherwin Williams

 

What about those battens or strips?

You can remove the strips, or battens, and use an acrylic caulk to fill in the gap or crack between the wall panels. Be forewarned though, it is difficult to get the tape even and it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to get it perfect. The panels in mobile homes are not made like drywall or sheet rock panels, meaning they don’t have tapered edges which makes taping the joints easier. You should prime the walls and the cracks with a primer before you fill in the gap with caulk to ensure a good bond. Tape and mud as you would sheet rock. That’s about it. Many people have painted their mobile home’s walls and you can too! The trick is to get the best bond possible and that’s possible by cleaning the walls well and using a good primer, whether it be a stand alone product or primer that’s mixed in the paint. If you have any questions add them to the comments and we’ll do our best to get you pointed in the right direction.

As always, thank you so much for reading Mobile and Manufactured Home Living!

The following websites were instrumental in collecting information and advice for this article:

Image by John Kannenberg

About The Author

Creator/Author
Google+

Hello! I'm Crystal, the creator of Mobile Home Living and I appreciate you stopping by! I hope MHL is an inspiring and informative resource for you! Please consider letting me feature your remodels, room makeovers and home improvement projects. There's simply not enough inspiration available for manufactured homeowners and I want to change that. Thanks!

45 Responses

  1. mary

    We have a park model vacation home. We want to add a back splash in the kitchen. Can you tile over the vinyl walls??

    Reply
  2. Jodi

    I was told that I couldn’t use things like tile, grout or mud ((?) to replace the battens.) for the walls/floors because of the shifting my home goes through for Michigan winters and summers. Is this true? My home is a 2013 Redman so the walls aren’t the thin vinyl, but have the vinyl wallpaper over them. I would really love tile, but I am afraid of what could happen.

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Jodi!

      Congratulations on your new home! A few other homeowners have mentioned that they have heard the same thing and while I always hate to go against advice – I don’t think this advice is as relevant as it may have been, here’s why:

      Manufactured homes are now installed and setup based on a national code so homes are more likely to be setup in a way that decreases substantial shifting. Proper footers, especially on homes that have been permanently installed, are less likely to shift or move a lot. Of course, they have to be able to shift but not enough to cause damage.

      Today’s tiling products like DuraRock and HardiRock and the new grouting products is a lot better than they used to be.

      The tile is set in a way that keeps minimal shifting from causing any damage. There’s even a product for tiling in RV’s – it’s a flexible grid type base attached to the tile in the factory and they even have special grout so movement doesn’t hurt the installation at all.

      There’s a trick with adding grout between the panels, just add really good primer to the crack and let it dry before you grout or mud it – it will allow the grout/mud to adhere to the wall better and keep cracks to minimum.

      I think the advice was good advice years ago but with today’s installation and tiling products, I just don’t think it’s relevant anymore.

      PS I’m not at all familiar with construction techniques for really cold weather. Here in WV we get 0 degree temps and a couple feet of snow at a time but it’s nothing like MN! Good luck!

      Reply
  3. Diana

    I just got an older Mobile Home; 1979 single wide.
    The previous owners already painted all paneled walls with the wrong paint and it is peeling/chipping everywhere. All flat white over dark paneling.
    Kitchen and Bathroom I am going to cover with bead-board but what do I do now with the already painted walls?
    Thank You very much for all this Mobile Home DIY information.
    Diana

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Diana! It’s great to hear from you! I’ve seen this problem a few times but I was always fortunate to be able to just peel the paint off. It was pretty fun actually..lol…I bet in your case the wall was just cleaner in some parts and was able to bond to the wall better so peeling won’t work. I’d probably try to peel it off and then very lightly use a flat edge scraper and scrape it off using a light steam or heat (steamer or hair dryer).

      There’s a homemade paint remover mixture I’ve seen that may work too. I Googled it and found this article. It has a lot of great tips: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/easiest-way-remove-old-paint-plaster-walls-98841.html

      Here’s another link with some good information: http://www.ehow.com/how_4706971_remove-paint-off-walls.html

      There’s lots of paint remover products you could try but I’d be very careful cause it could eat into the wall itself. One of those articles mentioned that if you do use a home made or store bought paint remover to clean the walls well afterwards so that the chemicals are neutralized. That will also give you another round of cleaning the walls so your paint will bond to the wall wonderfully!

      Good luck! Please take some photos for us – would love to see how it all turns out for you!!

      Reply
  4. Valerie

    I have pet damage marks on my wall how can I fix that? Should I just mud it like sheet rock?

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Valerie!

      Repairing a larger area is possible with VOG panels but you may have a hard time getting it to blend in well. You may want to add a speckle or orange peel design and do it to the whole wall to make everything blend in well. You could also cover it with bead board to chair rail height. That would probably be easier.

      Good luck!

      Reply
  5. Chelsea

    Hi!

    I have a 2010 single wide mobile home. I’m going to be painting my walls soon, but I will be starting with our closet as a test run. I plan on removing the battens and then painting. I have heard that spraying ammonia on the walls before painting helps A LOT with the process!! Now, for the paint. I decided to not go with Glidden due to the horrible reviews. But, I have heard good things about Behr. Is there any tips or suggestions you could provide to make this as smooth as possible? Any help would be great!!!

    Thanks!!!!!

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Chelsea!

      Doing a test run is a very smart idea! I probably should put that in the article, huh? I researched about the ammonia and found that it is the most recommended de-greaser and cleaner by professionals. Plus it’s super cheap! Here’s a link on washing walls that has a ‘recipe’ for the ammonia: http://www.housekeepingchannel.com/a_127-Wall_Washing_Secrets

      I always seem to buy Valspar but only because it’s always on sale at my local Lowe’s. I’ve learned not to buy cheap paint but I’m a bit too frugal to pay more than $30 a gallon for paint. I suspect paint is one of those products that makes the old saying ‘you get what you pay for’ ring true though. Plus I think most paint has a money back guarantee so if Behr doesn’t work well for you then you can get your money back.

      Cleaning the walls seems to be the most important step in the whole process and you’ve done your research so you should have no problem!

      In addition to this article, I wrote another article for About.com about painting mobile home walls. It’s basically the same information but in a different format. Here’s the link: http://manufacturedhomes.about.com/od/Manufactured-Home-Repair/ss/How-to-Paint-Mobile-and-Manufactured-Home-Walls.htm

      Good luck. Take some photos for us!

      Reply
      • diona

        VALSPAR t is ones of the worst paints to buy. to thick and didn’t do as it claims. A few more $ buy Behr. One of the top 3 recommended by painters.. i prainted half a house with Valsar… terrible. .I went and paid for Behr myself for a job (which is what I use usually).Father wanted it, against my better judgement I did what he wanted. .. never again.

  6. Eric

    I have a problem with the doors when adding sheet rock over the panels . How do i get the trim to match with the door jam and the walls so i dont have to replace all the doors.

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Eric!

      You’ll need to extend the jam and use moulding to cover the transition. I found the following on DIY/Stackexchange to explain it way better than I can:

      For areas where the jam was slightly short, he would take a razor blade, and score the drywall about 1/4″ in from the edge of where the trim would sit, then take a hammer, and punch down the Dry Wall even with the jam. So the outside edge of the trim would be on intact with the Dry Wall, but under the bulk of the trim the Dry Wall was smashed down.

      In areas where the jam was sticking out too far, he would do one of two things- in most of our rooms we were painting the trim, so he would use a paintable caulk behind the trim to seal it against the wall, then use a piece of square wood dipped in some soapy water to make the caulk flush with the trim. After painting over it, you can’t see where the trim stops and caulk starts.

      For the one room with stained maple trim, he shimmed behind the trim when cutting the miters, and played with the thickness of shim until the trim would “rock back” against the drywall but still meet up with the trim it was mitered against. This seemed much more an art than a science.

      Overall, the process is not easy, and I doubt I would be able to duplicate the quality of his joints, for the exposed wood trim with jams extending past the drywall.

      Here’s some other links that can help too:

      http://extremehowto.com/trim-tips-for-doors-and-windows/
      http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/trim-carpentry/perfect-trim-on-doors-windows-and-base-moldings/view-all

      Hope that helps and good luck!

      Reply
  7. patty

    Do you have to use tape to cover vinyl wall strips? Can i use jyst the acrylic caulk. Im painting and not adding bead board or sheetrock to exsiting walls

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Patty!

      I like to use caulk and mud more than tape – it’s just easier for me to work with. Mobile home walls don’t have the tapered edges like standard drywall so using tape is a bit more difficult and transitioning the seams is a big pain.

      Fill in the seams with paint, then caulk it half way (don’t fill the seam up completely) and let it dry. Apply another coat of paint, let it dry, and then add more caulk and use a flat edge to get it seamless. The paint helps the caulk to attach to the surface better but it’s not necessary.

      Good luck and thanks so much for reading MHL!

      Reply
      • Loretta

        I have started removing the strips and tried to mud and tape before i seen that using caulk to fill works best. But I have only started on one room. This sounds much easier and maybe look better. I don’t like textured walls or the strips. So before I get going on the next room what type of caulk do you recommend?

      • Crystal Adkins

        Hi Loretta!

        Using caulk is a lot easier than the mud and tape method, especially if you’ve never worked with tape before. DAP is probably the most popular caulk brand and they have tons of different formulas. Here’s a few that would work well (I found them all on their site):

        DAP® ALEX® Painter’s Acrylic Latex Caulk
        DAP® ALEX Fast Dry® Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone
        DAP® ALEX FLEX™ Premium Molding & Trim Sealant
        DAP® SIMPLE SEAL™ Paint Projects Easy-to-Use Home Sealant

        DAP® CRACKSHOT® High Performance Spackling Paste (RTU)
        DAP® ELASTOPATCH® Pro-Grade Elastomeric Patching CompoundSmooth (RTU)

        Here’s a PDF of all of DAP’s products: http://www.dap.com/docs/catalogs/DAPCatalogUS.pdf

        Good luck! Just holler if you need anything else!

  8. Nancy

    We have an early 1990’s park model in Mesa, AZ. The wallpaper is coming off in the living room. Underneath it I can see a dark paneling/wallboard of some kind. It has a rough feeling to it. Can we pull off the vinyl wallpaper and just prime and paint it? I haven’t been able to find any information on this topic.

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Nancy!

      Yes! As long as its regular ole wallpaper. If its been there a while you may have to steam it off. Then prime and paint. It sounds like someone added wallpaper over the old faux-wood paneling. My house had it too!

      Let us know how it goes!

      Reply
  9. Kim

    Hi,
    We just purschased a mobile home and started painting. We have did 2 rooms ( kitchen and master bedroom) so far but we are having a problem with the paint not sticking. We are using the Behr paint with primer but everytime something hits the wall the paint easily chips off. Any suggestions?

    Thank you for your help!

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Kim!

      Thanks so much for contacting me! It sounds like the paint isn’t creating a strong bond to the wall. I’d peel the paint off and try a very strong industrial cleaner. Scrub the wall down a couple of times and let it dry overnight before re-painting. If that doesn’t work, try a separate primer like Kilz or a Gripper type.

      Good luck!

      Reply
  10. Ashley

    Can u sand the walls before paint? I to have a home where paint has already been added and I can not get the old off?

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Ashley!

      If your walls are the VOG panels with the glossy finish then no, you shouldn’t sand them at all. That topcoat is basically paper with some sort of gloss or glaze over it and it’s what holds the panel together and gives it what little bit of water protection it has.

      Thanks so much for reading MHL!

      Reply
  11. Kay Arnold

    I bought a HUD home and I had a lot of wall repairs to do. I used standard drywall patch screening and then using regular drywall mud to cover the damage. I removed all the battens and filled with dry wall mud and any rough spots I sanded down. I used Lowe’s brand paint and it stuck very well. The house looks nice and it has been a year and half and no problems with the paint or drywall. I had to replace nine doors and I upgraded to panel doors that meant that the door locks didn’t fit correctly and I had to re-drill the doorjambs and fill in with wood putty and it all worked out fine. I also recovered the bathroom floors with the peel and stick flooring that looks like hard wood but can be cut with sheers. That job went so well I may cover the kitchen floor with it too. I had the carpet replaced by a professional with the best padding I could afford and that made a dramatic improvement in the house. Everything takes longer to do and costs more than you thought. But the results are worth it. I still have the laundry room and kitchen floors to do. Then maybe the kitchen cabinets ? Does it every ALL get done?

    Reply
  12. Marcia

    I’m purchasing a manufactured home, it has been lived in before and the previous owners painted over the vinyl wallpaper. The strip are still on the walls, I’m wanting to remove those and possibly texture over everything. Can this be done? If so what’s the best way to go about this. Without adding extra sheetrock?

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Marcia! You sure can! Here’s what we recommend for removing the battens (strips):

      You can remove the strips, or battens, and use an acrylic caulk or even drywall mud and tape to fill in the crack. Then texture over it. Texturing the walls makes the job a lot easier since you won’t have to get the seam so perfect.

      Just remove the batten, prime the crack and add caulk or mud (whichever you prefer to work with – I like caulk better) and fill the crack and use a soft, pliable edge (like a credit card) and work it up and down to make it even with the wall panel. Once it’s dry you can use whatever you prefer to add texture (drywall mud is popular).

      Good luck! If you can please take photos and share with us!

      Reply
  13. Norma A.

    Is there a 2 in 1 that is recommended? I imagine its easier to already have the primer in the paint that way you don’t have to do so many coats right?

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      I’ve always like Valspar and Behr. I think with today’s chemical technology just about any mid-to-high priced 2-in-1 would work very well.

      Reply
  14. tamie

    I would like to wallpaper over my vinyl gypson walls in my mobile home but I’m not sure how to proceed and don’t want the paper to fall off! So can you pls tell me what I should do for prep work prior to applying the paper, sanding, cleaning or primer with paint? Do I need to fill the batten seams and what would work best? Drywall mud or caulking? Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Tamie!

      I’ve used regular ole pre-pasted wallpaper and the temporary wallpaper over our VOG panels in our previous double wide and they both worked great. I only had to reseal the corners but that happens on just about every surface.

      Remove the battons and fill the crack in with caulk (or mud if you prefer). Clean everything really well and you’ll be set (save your battons in case you want to add them back someday). You should have no troubles at all! It’s a very simple DIY project (unless you get a tight pattern paper – I always have difficulty getting them straight – I would not make a very good wallpaperer).

      Good luck!

      Reply
  15. Diana

    We purchased a 20 year old modular with paneling in both bathrooms with the battens between panels. I see all the comments about remove the battens and prepare the surface. My problem is how to get the battens or strips off, is there a trick to it or what could I be doing wrong. It seems to be a sort of plastic and breaks leaving a ridge.

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Diana!

      Usually the battons are just stapled into the panels so any pry bat type tool will work. Just slip the tool under the strip and pry gently along the length and it should come right out! Good luck!

      Reply
  16. Mary Gillette

    I have an older mobile home and we are using liquid nail and staples to hang the walk panels over the existing ugly ones. We are also porting them up flush so as not to have to use batten strips. At first the walls looked great-smooth and everything. A week later and I get dish walking in the room. The walls are wavy. Help!

    Reply
    • Mary Gillette

      Sorry for the typos
      *wall panels
      *putting them up
      *dizzy walking into the room

      Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Mary!

      So sorry you’ve had issues! There’s nothing worse than putting a lot of hard work into a project and it backfire on you! I’ve been there!

      It kinda sounds like a water issue, maybe the glue was water based and seeped into the drywall or gypsum? We’d be happy to take a look if you want to send me photos of the walls.

      My email is crystaladkins@mobilehomeliving.org – If you do send photos, let me know what type of walls you used (drywall, VOG, paneling,etc) and the type of liquid nail. That may help.

      Thanks so much!

      Reply
  17. Linda

    I have a 1987 Carrollton single wide. The bathroom has a tall narrow linen/storage closet that is made with wood looking paneling, it abuts the sink vanity. I want to paint the closet & doors as it is a different wood hue than the vanity cabinet and another cabinet which is over the toilet. The rest of the room will be done with beadboard and paint. What do you suggest I do?

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Linda!

      With bead board and a good trim you can give your bathroom a cute cottage look. Since that storage closet is already in a different paneling it sounds like it would be great to continue its ‘oddness’ and use it as an accent. Paint it in a complimentary color that goes with the rest of the room but isn’t used much. Maybe a nice blue or grey?

      I bet whatever you chose will be beautiful! Take photos for us and good luck!

      Reply
  18. Norma

    Which type of primer sticks better to the wall? Latex, water-based, or oil?

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Norma!

      Great question! To be honest, I still have to look it up cause I can’t keep all the different paints, primers, uses, and materials straight! I’ve always used regular ole latex primers on my home (like Killz) because I like the easy clean-up and it seems to stick to the faux-paneling and vinyl on gypsum walls that I’ve had very well. However, I haven’t tested the others so I may be missing out on a better product.

      Here’s what True Value had to say about primers:

      Oil-based
      Oil-based primers and paints have been an industry standard for decades. These primers work with both oil paints and latex paints, making them very versatile and applicable to a wide variety of surfaces. Wood (painted or unpainted), steel and other metals, and surfaces with existing paint, such as interior and exterior walls are ideal surfaces for oil-based primers.

      Many oil-based primers are good “stain killers” and prevent stains from showing through your new coats of paint. They are good for blocking stains on your walls from ink, nicotine and water.

      Oil-based primers are ideal for interior and exterior unfinished or bare wood because they seal the porous surface of wood, enabling the coat of paint to better cover the surface. They stop tannins, released from woods, such as cedar or redwood, from bleeding through the surface of the paint. They also prevent or slow down paint peeling, cracking and blistering.

      A drawback of oil-based primers (as with oil-based paints), they are often slow-drying and release high amounts of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which can be harmful to people in high concentrations and with prolonged exposure. They also require that you use harsh thinners and solvents to clean brushes and applicators, and have to be disposed of carefully and properly. Oil-based primers should not be used on masonry.

      Latex-based
      Latex primers are water-based and ideal for prepping unfinished drywall for painting. They are more flexible and fast drying, and are less brittle than oil-based primers, making them less susceptible to peeling and cracking. They are also good for priming soft wood (such as pine), brick and concrete and galvanized metals.

      Latex primers are good for drywall because they even out the surface of the wallboard and any joint compound applied to it, and any areas that have been patched or repaired. They also can cover and seal in previous minor stains from smoke, lipstick, crayon, etc., but are not as effective at covering stains as oil- and shellac-based primers.

      These primers are water-soluble and so are easy to clean. They also come in low- or no-VOC formulas, making them a healthier alternative to oil-based and shellac primers.

      Shellac Primer
      Shellac has been used for centuries to seal wood and other surfaces. Good for interior paint jobs, shellac-based primers are possibly the best stain-blocking primers, working well on severe water and smoke damage to walls and surfaces — they even seal in smells from smoke damage. They also are excellent at preventing normal water, rust and smoke stains, as well as wood tannins from bleeding through new paint. They work well on wood, metal, plaster, and even plastic, and are fast drying and highly adhesive. They also can be used with both oil-based and latex paints.

      The drawback to using shellac-based primers is that they are not as versatile as latex or oil and they give off more fumes. They require that you use denatured alcohol to thin them and clean applicators.

      And here’s a few more articles that has a lot of great information about primers and paints:
      Today’s Homeowner
      Bob Villa
      DIY Network
      Family Handyman

      Reply
  19. Kristine

    Hi Crystal,
    I live in a 1974 mobile home. I’ve been living here since 1990. I’ve made a lot of improvements over the years.new windows, paint,additional bathroom etc. still have the existing painted panel walls and ugly ceilings. I want to texture the walls and the ceilings. Ceilings are foot and a half strips running the width of trailer. Was told I shouldn’t use joint compound to texture because of the movement of the trailer. Would be nice to have more of a ,stick built, house feel. If you know what I mean. Any recommendations?
    Thanks, Kristine

    Reply
    • Crystal Adkins

      Hi Kristine!

      If you have no intention of moving the home and it’s set on a good foundation you can definitely use joint compound. The worse that can happen is you’ll need to patch it if the home suffers any kind of movement. Joint compound is one of the most useful products in the remodeling/construction industry – use it to your advantage! Manufactured home builders are using sheet rock and drywall more and more these days and though it’s a bit of a hassle after setup it makes a home look and feel more like a site-built home so it’s worth every bit of the hassle.

      There’s a lot of misguided advice out there regarding manufactured homes – lots of people believe the homes are nothing like a site-built home but that’s not the case at all. Same materials, same construction techniques…their just built in a factory and hauled to the site. I’ve also heard people say you can’t use tile but I’ve seen no issue with it, just make sure the tile didn’t cross the marriage line and isn’t too heavy.

      Your only concern will be settling or high wind movement but if the home has been there for 25 years already I’d say it’s settled and will be there another 25 years! Good luck!

      Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.