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The secret to staying warm in the winter is layering your clothes and the same goes for your home’s plumbing lines, you want as many layers as possible between the elements and your water pipe. In this article, we’re covering heat tape. We’ll help you understand why and how it works, how much it costs to run, how much you need to buy, and how to install it safely.
What is Heat Tape
Heat tape is used to prevent metal and rigid plastic water filled lines from freezing. In sub-freezing areas, heat tape is one of the most popular ways to protect pipes from freezing because it’s affordable and works remarkably well. Heat tape isn’t sticky. It’s really just a simple resistive heat-conducting flexible wire that uses electricity to produce heat. This heat source is held close against your vulnerable water lines and keeps the water from freezing.
Heat Tape for Mobile Homes
Older mobile and manufactured homeowners need to be extra careful when they choose a heat tape. There are two things to consider for older mobile homes: the water line material and the electrical system used in the home. Some of the old school water feed lines used in mobile homes (before PEX) is too thin to withstand even the lowest heat tape temperatures. If your home has the older rigid plastic piping you will need a low-temperature heat tape that is approved for that specific material. In addition, mobile home owners should only use shielded heat tape that is rated specifically for their homes electrical specs.
Mobile Home Parts Store sells electric water pipe heat tape.
Most heat tapes that are lightweight and thermostatically controlled are not designed for older manufactured homes. Only brands that are UL listed for use in manufactured homes should be used. Most modern manufactured homes today have some sort of plastic-like water lines like PEX or PVC. When selecting your heat tape and insulation you need to be sure that you are getting a product approved for your particular application.
Aluminum Wiring and Heat Tape isn’t a Good Combination
Another issue for older mobile homeowners is aluminum wiring. While aluminum hasn’t been installed in mobile homes for decades there are still many homes that still have it. Aluminum wiring connectors (and the wiring itself) are prone to corrosion and that loosens the connections needed for safe electricity travel. Pair that with the high power consumption of space heaters and some heat tapes and you have a recipe for disaster. It’s a good idea that all older mobile homes have their aluminum wiring replaced as soon as possible.
2 Types of Heat Tape, 2 Types of Installations
There are two types of heat tape wiring installation methods. The first is the hardwired heat tape. These tapes are professionally connected to your home’s electric system and controlled with its own breaker. Most of us do not have the luxury of this type of installation because it requires a licensed electrician to install. The second installation method for heat tape is to run an outdoor certified extension chord and a GFCI outlet.
Heat tape plugged into a GFCI outlet.
Self-Regulated Heat Tape
The newer automatic temperature controlled models (aka self-regulated) is the best choice because they save money on energy costs. These smart heat tapes only increase its temperature as colder weather sets in. You can pretty much plug, set and forget until you unplug them in the spring.
Silicone Heat Tape
There are two types of heat tape available for manufactured homes. The first type is a one-piece flat heat tape with a rubber or silicone coating. When silicone heat tape is installed, it must never overlap itself and the heat tape must not have kinks or steep bends. Locate the thermostat at the end of the pipe that will be the coldest. This particular heat tape is coated with rubber and resists moisture which helps it to last longer.
Braided Heat Tape
The second type of heat tape is braided. It is most recommended for mobile homes. Braided heat tape is a bit more complicated to buy and install. The braided tape is still This heat tape is sold by the foot, which can make it hard to judge exactly how much you will need. In addition, you must also purchase two ends to install on either end of the tape. When installed, it is wrapped around the pipe and can safely be overlapped without worry, which makes it safer to use. A downside to using this type of heat tape is that it has no rubber coating, the heat tape tends to rust and stop working due to the lack of a moisture barrier. Most contractors like to use this type of tape as they can buy it in large quantities and use only what’s needed for any particular job.
Best Heat Tape for PVC Pipe
Most PVC plumbing pipe can safely withstand temperatures between 140-160 degrees without fear of melting.
Where to Install Heat Tape
Heat tape should be installed on an exposed pipe located outside of your home only. As stated above, water supply and drain lines in the area between the ground and the bottom of the mobile home is the most common place to install heat tape for mobile and manufactured homes. Though the skirting or foundation helps hide the water lines and shield the pipes a bit from the elements, they are still exposed pipes in an unheated space. In the majority of frozen water line calls we’ve had over the last 2 decades a whopping 95% occurred under the mobile home. Usually within 3 feet of the ground connection point or where the mobile home’s belly wrap and insulation have been damaged or removed for some reason.
A look under a mobile home.
Materials Needed to Install Heat Tape
The proper amount of heat tape, or braiding, needed to wrap around your water lines at a 6″ to 8″ interval.
Power supply (GFCI outlet, extension cord)
PVC/electrical tape
Fiberglass pipe insulation
Vapor seal wrap
Tape measure
Scissors and Knife
Mask, gloves, and eye protection
Supplies to clean your pipe (rag with cleaner)
You can make heat installation easier by preplanning and making sure you have everything you’re going to need before you crawl under the home. Pre-cut the tape, ties or straps you’re using to attach the heat tape to the pipe. You want to tape or tie it at least every 10-12″ but closer is always better. You want the heat tape to make constant contact with the water pipe. Learn about mobile home repair loans here.
How Much Heat Tape Do You Need to Buy?
The diameter and material of your pipe are used to calculate how much heat tape you should need. For instance, a 1/2″ copper pipe that is 18 inches long would need around 24″ of heat tape. Here are tables for various widths and lengths of pipe as well as material.
Also, be aware that if the manufacturer recommends it, you’ll need to buy the right amount of fiberglass insulation wrap as well.
How to Install Heat Tape
Oftentimes, the pipe you need to install the heat tape will be a few feet under a mobile home. If your home has a low crawl space you could be in for a tough installation. Other than that, installing heat tape isn’t that difficult. We rate it 6 out of 10 for those comfortable with common DIY home projects.
Attach heat tape with manufacturer’s recommended tape or ties.
Parallel Installation
There are two ways to install heat tape to a pipe. The first is parallel where the heat tape is applied in a straight flat line against the pipe. If you use this method under your mobile home be sure to position the heat tape on the side most exposed to the weather.
The second method is to spirally wrap the heat tape around the water line in short intervals. This is a better installation method if your water lines are verticle and exposed to the elements on more than one side. In the image below you can see the light green line running parallel to the pipe. On the second pipe, the squiggly lines represent the heat tape and the black lines represent the tape that holds the heat tape to the pipe.
Spiral wrapped heat tape.
Wrap Heat Tape with Insulation
After you’ve installed your heat tape and made sure it will remain as dry as possible you can wrap insulation over it IF the heat tape manufacturer recommends it (many do). Insulating heat tape helps it maintain a constant temperature easier and protects it from damage. We only recommend fiberglass insulation in 99% of all situations. Fiberglass has a higher fire retardancy than other insulating materials such as foam sleeves so it’s safer.
Wrap fiberglass insulation around heat tape if the manufacturer recommends it.
To install fiberglass insulation around a pipe with heat tape you simply start at one end and wrap the water line being careful not to make your wraps to tight. Fiberglass Pipe Wrap at Amazon
Installing Vapor Seal/Barrier
The final step to installing heat tape is the vapor or moisture seal. A moisture barrier is installed the same way as the insulation but the plastic is wrapped in the opposite direction as the insulation. A snug uniform fit without being too tight is what you are trying to achieve. You want the insulation to be protected against the elements. Fiberglass insulation loses its effectiveness when it gets wet.
Vapor barrier wrapped over fiberglass insulation.
Other Important Information about Heat Tape
How Much Power Does Heat Tape Use?
The most common heat tapes use either 2 watts per foot or 7 watts per foot and keep your water line from freezing down to an impressive -50F degrees. Newsminer.com explains that if an average heat tape draws 5 watts of electricity per foot then a 6-foot long heat tape will use 30 watts to heat the pipe. With their current electric rates in Fairbanks, AK that 30 watts spread over 4 months would cost close to $20.
Heat tape was too insulated with foam spray and burnt. (Amazon.com).
Is Heat Tape Safe?
Self-regulated heat tapes don’t get very hot at all which is why they aren’t helpful to unfreeze pipes. In fact, they should be installed on your pipes long before the first freeze. The new self-regulated heat tapes will turn on when the temperature gets below 40 to 38 degrees. Still, the Washington Post reports that modern certified heat tapes that have met the UL standards cause close to 2,000 home fires, 10 deaths, and 100 injuries each year. A majority of these accidents could be prevented if homeowners followed these suggestions:
If your using an extension cord to power your heat tape be sure its rated for outdoor use.
Only purchase UL certified heat tapes.
Heat tape should have a grounding or three-prong plug. Especially in older mobile homes due to the metal chassis and grounding. Only use a quick-tripping ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) outlet.
Do not install heat tapes inside walls, floors, or ceilings. Heat tape should only be used outside.
Install heat tapes directly on the pipe you need to protect from freezing. Do not install heat tape around pipe insulation – only the pipe itself.
Don’t cover heat tapes with insulation even if the tape manufacturer permits it.
If you do add insulation, only use fiberglass or another non-flammable material. Do not use foam or vinyl insulation as they could catch fire easier.
Do not wrap heat tape over itself even if some manufacturers allow it.
Never use metal to secure heat tape to the pipe.
Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the thermostat’s location. Should it rest against the pipe and be covered with insulation to sense pipe temperature or hang uncovered to sense air temperature?
Inspect all heat tapes and electrical connections before winter and at least monthly during winter. Replace heat tape if it has cuts, cracks, charring, animal chew marks, bare wires or a loose or missing end. If it looks suspicious it should be replaced or removed.
Testing a heat tape thermostat.
Replace Heat Tape Regularly
Speaking of replacing, heat tape only has a 3-year lifespan. Most heat tape manufacturers warn that you should replace your heat tapes every 3 years minimum. Heat tape has a near-constant connection with both water and electricity and usually isn’t protected well from the elements.
Other Noteworthy Information about Heat Tape
You can’t add heat tape after your pipes have frozen and expect it to unfreeze your pipe. It will help, of course, but heat tape is a prevention product – it works by keeping the line from freezing in the first place. Read more winterizing tips for your mobile home. A water line that freezes and busts can be a troublesome and expensive mishap not only to the line itself but to the surrounding structures. Fortunately, there are some good options to choose from to help prevent any future problems. Learn more about plumbing in mobile homes.
Heat tape plugged into a GFCI outlet.
Freeze Alarms are Smart
There are freeze alarms that can be installed to warn you when your lines reach a critically low temperature. The alarm itself is installed inside your home with a cord attached and running to your water line. The installation is fairly simple and straightforward, but as always follow the manufacture’s recommendations and instructions.
Good Ideas to Keep in Mind
You can find heat tape at your local hardware store or order online from an online retailer such as The Mobile Home Parts Store. or Lowe’s. The main priority is to make sure the heat tape is recommended for your home’s plumbing lines. Heat tape is a commonly used defense against the weather but it must be used properly and inspected regularly to be safe and effective. Thank you for reading Mobile Home Living!
(Images: Homedepot.com,
Crystal Adkins
I'm Crystal Adkins, the creator of Mobile Home Living, and I hope you've found the mobile home remodeling ideas, decorating inspiration, and repair help you've been searching for. Please consider letting me feature your remodels, room makeovers, DIY projects, and home improvement projects. There simply isn't enough inspiration available for mobile homeowners and I want to change that. Together, we can show the world that factory-built homes are as beautiful as any other at half the cost per square foot. Thank you!
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33 Comments
Hi I’m curious and a new mobile home owner so have never had the experience to know what to use on the water pipes under my mobile home. My place was built in 1987 and I’m in the northeast so winter will be COLD. My pipes froze and burst last winter and have since been fixed but I want to prevent waking up to a lake in my place again this winter so I’m wondering do I use heat tape? If so is the single line or wrapping it method best? And I know the tape goes on the pipe but do I put insulation wrap or something over it? I want to also of course avoid unsafe and higher fire risks if possible. Thank you to anyone who responds to my questions in advance!
Hello,
I plan to heat trace a exterior sump pump line (1 1/2″ Solid PVC pipping). I have seen multiple warnings about not allowing the heat tape to touch the ground but have seen no reasoning for this. Originally I had planned to route the heat tape along the pipe length and then form a non-touching zig-zag pattern on the top of the ground with any excess cable at the pipes end instead of rerouting it back along the pipe. My thought was it might help to keep the ground partially thawed to promote drainage. This installation will be under what could amount to one to two feet of snow.
What would be the disadvantages to leaving the excess heating cable on the ground ?
I also thought instead of insulating it might be useful to run the 11/2″ PVC through 3″ PVC. This would keep the major portion of the heat tape off the ground along it’s entire length.
Any help you might be able to provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
_bill
Hi Pierce,
We never had a singular backup power supply for our heat tape in WV. We would use a generator when the power went out but if your plumbing is protected properly you should be able to go several hours without the heat tape even in sub-freezing temperatures. I would focus my time and money on insulating the lines so that they don’t freeze without the use of heat tape before I would spend the time and money to create a backup power supply. I’m sure it’s a different world in the most northern states but we’re not familiar with that. sorry.
Moving into a mobile home community and the management suggest a generator to power the heat tape during a power failure. I thought of a homeowner’s battery backup unit, probably needing a capacitor or surge protector or something in the middle.
Power backup for heat tape other than a generator?
Hi John,
It kinda sounds like they’ve tied the heat tape straight into a wire/circuit under the house. I’m absolutely 100% ignorant about electricity (that’s why there are no articles about it on the site..lol). My dad spliced a single light bulb into a wire that would come on when our well pump would kick on and turn off when the well pump turned off. That way we’d know if it wasn’t kicking off properly. I’m not sure how he did it but I can ask him tomorrow.
Sorry, I can’t help.
Thank you for such an informative list, Thomas! I appreciate you taking the time to write it out. Thank you!
As a mobile home maintenance person I recommend the following:
-always insulate your pipes after you put heat tape on.
-heat tape should be laid flat against the pipe at the bottom of pipe (heat rises).
-never overlap tape.
-the placement of the sensor of heat tape is very important. Keep it in the coldest spot . I like to stick it against a metal pipe or support beam to trick it to stay warm.
-if the light is on at the heat tape, it does not mean it is working. The only way to know is to feel the tape.
-check your heat tape before every season, and keep an extra one handy. They run out fast when a cold snap happens.
-I rather use two shorter heat tapes than one long one.
-make sure the heat tape starts as deep as you can go in your well, and cover the hole well and your shutoff valve with insulation.
-check to make sure your valve is capable of being turned off the beginning g of every winter season just in case.
Hi Justyn,
If you own the home but rent the lot, parks won’t add heat tape due to the liability risks. If they own the home their insurance probably won’t cover heat tape. Regardless, you’ll want to hit this issue in every direction possible because if your water is freezing that means your furnace is likely working double time and spending $100 on insulation could save you a thousand in heating costs.
You’ll need to better insulate the skirting cause there’s too much cold air getting under your home (Add foam insulation behind the skirting) and make sure your vents are closed off. In addition tot the heat tape, use foam pipe wrap (it looks like a gray pool noodle) and then build a box or triangle that has its own pink insulation to stand/sit around the water line (make sure it’s easy to remove), and keep a faucet dripping on the coldest nights (just a slight drip – you just need a little movement thru the line).
Together, you shouldn’t have to worry about frozen water again. Best of luck!
I’m renting from a park in Minnesota that refused to insulate or place heat tape on my water main coming from the ground to the house. Which left me needing to place heat tape on the water pipe myself. It’s now the middle of winter and every day I have to go break 16″ of ice around from the pipe. Would it be smarter to unplug the tape and just leave the water running in the trailer or try to remove all the ice and redo the heat tape?
Hi my name is John I have My ipipes wrap under my mobile home I use to plug my heat tape to my outlet outside my home my maint guy tried to tell me my wife we don’t need the extension cord any more the heat tape is plugged in under the trailer is this possible heat tape can be used without exstension cord for the light to work on the tape
Hi Pamela,
It can but it’s a simple system so if the light is on it’s likely working. However, just because you have heat tape installed doesn’t mean the pipes won’t freeze. It’s just an added layer of protection in one area and no guarantee that your pipes cannot freeze elsewhere. You’ll want to insulate your water lines better and perhaps add more heat tape.
Best of luck!
My mobile home water is froze up. Can the heat tape light indicator be on yet not be working properly?
You probably can! Heat tape is used just about anywhere a water line is exposed and freezes. As long as you follow the safety guidelines of your purchased brand you should be fine.
Best of luck!
Hi Karen,
Yes. You do need a new heat tape. It’s advised to replace them every 3 years or at first sign of an issue.
I purchased an older mobile home (1967) approx. 5 years ago. My heat tape gets plugged in the wall in my bedroom and as far as I know has been working fine (light is on). This winter, however, the light starts flickering after a while and the light goes out after a while. Does this mean I need new tape?
I have an outside frost free spigot at my kennel. It is the type with the flip up handle. My line is approx. 3-4 feet deep. In bitter cold, temps below 10 degrees I have had the water freeze. Can I put a heat tape on it to keep it from freezing? I believe this type of spigot has a purge at the bottom of the pipe where it ties into the water line. I have clay at that depth and water often sits in the hole of the line. Is heat tape safe submerged in water? This line stands alone and is not adjacent to any building.
Buy a Infrared Thermometer to check the temperature.
Hi Jackie!
Unfortunately, yes you will need to remove the insulation but wet insulation doesn’t insulate well and it’s just as important as the heat tape so you will want to replace it every 3 years or so too. The heat tape will be directly on the pipe and the fiberglass insulation over that and then the vapor tape (or seal) around the fiberglass. Best of luck!
Hi Autumn,
It is possible and that’s the ideal home situation. Instead of putting a bunch of heat tape all over your pipes you should spend the money to properly insulate the home so that you don’t need heat tape. Not needing heat tape is a good sign that the home and its plumbing system were well designed and thought out during installation. They may have boxed the vertical pipe and placed the horizontal beside the heat ducts.
Thanks for reading!
Is it possible that the pipes never ever freeze especially in Strafford County, NH? Owners claimed it’s been 10 years without any heat tape. Their double wide is a 2001.
I currently have insulation wrapped around all my water pipes – I have looked at various videos and the heat tape is used directly on the pipe and then wrapped with insulation. does this mean that I have to cut all the insulation off to install all new heat tape?
Hi Arthur,
There are some heat tapes that have lights but other than that I don’t know of any way. Sorry!
Hi Charissa,
I know I’ve answered this comment before but my commenting system in on the fritz so I’m answering it again, sorry. Yes, please turn your heat wrap off after the last freeze and turn it on before the first fall freeze. You only need to during the winter.
Thanks for reading Mobile Home Living!
hi,
Once I install my heat tape on my mobile home under the skirting, is there any way I can see if it is plugged in and working from outside?
Thanks
I have an inside switch to activate my heat wrap…..I live in Wisconsin…should I turn this off in the spring and summer months….to preserve my heat wrap for longer duration..or is it safer to leave it on all year..? I am a newbie for manufactured home living….my unit was made in 2014
Hi Katie,
I’m not familiar with heat tape that would use any adhesive. Pex doesn’t either but if there’s some new product I’m not familiar with then zip ties sounds right (they are like duct tape – they work on everything..lol). I’m in WV and SC though so I’m not familiar with how things are done up North. Ya’ll get such cold weather! Best of luck!
Hi Trish,
This doesn’t sound right at all. At that price you could better insulate your entire home (better skirting, new insulation under the home, etc). Heat tape should only be used temporarily and your power bill would be unbelievable…Do NOT deal with the person that suggested you do this. They are idiots.
We have a single wide 1972 mobile home. All new pex piping throughout, no copper left at all. Located in Northeast USA. We do not have heat going through duct work under the home. Which type of heat tape is safe on pex piping? All instructions I’m finding on heat tapes say not for pex. Some research I’ve done has said that it is due to the adhesives used to attach the heat tape and an alternative it to use zip ties, is this true?
Can you pices part heat tape> front and back of mobile home. Or do you need to wrap all the pipe from on end to the other? I was told I need 67 ft of heat tape and in the ball park of $1500.00 to $2000.00 Does that sound right>
Thank you
Hi Scott,
We only put heat tape on the water line between the ground and the home. The heat from the vents and the protection from the skirting, insulation, and belly wrap is plenty enough to keep our lines flowing (we are in WV so it can get below 10 degrees). The more tape you apply the more you’ll need to worry about but maybe just start off with the exposed line and see if that works.
Best of luck!
Just purchased a 2008 Eagle River mobile home, never lived in before. It’s a double wide, and we are looking to put heat tape on the pipes. We are getting conflicting suggestions as to doing the whole trailer or just to do half.
What do you all Suggest?
Hi Chuck!
3-5 years is the average. If there’s no exposed wires and it’s still working you should be fine to use it.
my heat tape put om 3 years ago, when will have to be replaced?
Hi I’m curious and a new mobile home owner so have never had the experience to know what to use on the water pipes under my mobile home. My place was built in 1987 and I’m in the northeast so winter will be COLD. My pipes froze and burst last winter and have since been fixed but I want to prevent waking up to a lake in my place again this winter so I’m wondering do I use heat tape? If so is the single line or wrapping it method best? And I know the tape goes on the pipe but do I put insulation wrap or something over it? I want to also of course avoid unsafe and higher fire risks if possible. Thank you to anyone who responds to my questions in advance!
Hello,
I plan to heat trace a exterior sump pump line (1 1/2″ Solid PVC pipping). I have seen multiple warnings about not allowing the heat tape to touch the ground but have seen no reasoning for this. Originally I had planned to route the heat tape along the pipe length and then form a non-touching zig-zag pattern on the top of the ground with any excess cable at the pipes end instead of rerouting it back along the pipe. My thought was it might help to keep the ground partially thawed to promote drainage. This installation will be under what could amount to one to two feet of snow.
What would be the disadvantages to leaving the excess heating cable on the ground ?
I also thought instead of insulating it might be useful to run the 11/2″ PVC through 3″ PVC. This would keep the major portion of the heat tape off the ground along it’s entire length.
Any help you might be able to provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
_bill
Hi Pierce,
We never had a singular backup power supply for our heat tape in WV. We would use a generator when the power went out but if your plumbing is protected properly you should be able to go several hours without the heat tape even in sub-freezing temperatures. I would focus my time and money on insulating the lines so that they don’t freeze without the use of heat tape before I would spend the time and money to create a backup power supply. I’m sure it’s a different world in the most northern states but we’re not familiar with that. sorry.
Moving into a mobile home community and the management suggest a generator to power the heat tape during a power failure. I thought of a homeowner’s battery backup unit, probably needing a capacitor or surge protector or something in the middle.
Power backup for heat tape other than a generator?
Hi John,
It kinda sounds like they’ve tied the heat tape straight into a wire/circuit under the house. I’m absolutely 100% ignorant about electricity (that’s why there are no articles about it on the site..lol). My dad spliced a single light bulb into a wire that would come on when our well pump would kick on and turn off when the well pump turned off. That way we’d know if it wasn’t kicking off properly. I’m not sure how he did it but I can ask him tomorrow.
Sorry, I can’t help.
Thank you for such an informative list, Thomas! I appreciate you taking the time to write it out. Thank you!
As a mobile home maintenance person I recommend the following:
-always insulate your pipes after you put heat tape on.
-heat tape should be laid flat against the pipe at the bottom of pipe (heat rises).
-never overlap tape.
-the placement of the sensor of heat tape is very important. Keep it in the coldest spot . I like to stick it against a metal pipe or support beam to trick it to stay warm.
-if the light is on at the heat tape, it does not mean it is working. The only way to know is to feel the tape.
-check your heat tape before every season, and keep an extra one handy. They run out fast when a cold snap happens.
-I rather use two shorter heat tapes than one long one.
-make sure the heat tape starts as deep as you can go in your well, and cover the hole well and your shutoff valve with insulation.
-check to make sure your valve is capable of being turned off the beginning g of every winter season just in case.
Hi Justyn,
If you own the home but rent the lot, parks won’t add heat tape due to the liability risks. If they own the home their insurance probably won’t cover heat tape. Regardless, you’ll want to hit this issue in every direction possible because if your water is freezing that means your furnace is likely working double time and spending $100 on insulation could save you a thousand in heating costs.
You’ll need to better insulate the skirting cause there’s too much cold air getting under your home (Add foam insulation behind the skirting) and make sure your vents are closed off. In addition tot the heat tape, use foam pipe wrap (it looks like a gray pool noodle) and then build a box or triangle that has its own pink insulation to stand/sit around the water line (make sure it’s easy to remove), and keep a faucet dripping on the coldest nights (just a slight drip – you just need a little movement thru the line).
Together, you shouldn’t have to worry about frozen water again. Best of luck!
I’m renting from a park in Minnesota that refused to insulate or place heat tape on my water main coming from the ground to the house. Which left me needing to place heat tape on the water pipe myself. It’s now the middle of winter and every day I have to go break 16″ of ice around from the pipe. Would it be smarter to unplug the tape and just leave the water running in the trailer or try to remove all the ice and redo the heat tape?
Hi my name is John I have My ipipes wrap under my mobile home I use to plug my heat tape to my outlet outside my home my maint guy tried to tell me my wife we don’t need the extension cord any more the heat tape is plugged in under the trailer is this possible heat tape can be used without exstension cord for the light to work on the tape
Hi Pamela,
It can but it’s a simple system so if the light is on it’s likely working. However, just because you have heat tape installed doesn’t mean the pipes won’t freeze. It’s just an added layer of protection in one area and no guarantee that your pipes cannot freeze elsewhere. You’ll want to insulate your water lines better and perhaps add more heat tape.
Best of luck!
My mobile home water is froze up. Can the heat tape light indicator be on yet not be working properly?
You probably can! Heat tape is used just about anywhere a water line is exposed and freezes. As long as you follow the safety guidelines of your purchased brand you should be fine.
Best of luck!
Hi Karen,
Yes. You do need a new heat tape. It’s advised to replace them every 3 years or at first sign of an issue.
I purchased an older mobile home (1967) approx. 5 years ago. My heat tape gets plugged in the wall in my bedroom and as far as I know has been working fine (light is on). This winter, however, the light starts flickering after a while and the light goes out after a while. Does this mean I need new tape?
I have an outside frost free spigot at my kennel. It is the type with the flip up handle. My line is approx. 3-4 feet deep. In bitter cold, temps below 10 degrees I have had the water freeze. Can I put a heat tape on it to keep it from freezing? I believe this type of spigot has a purge at the bottom of the pipe where it ties into the water line. I have clay at that depth and water often sits in the hole of the line. Is heat tape safe submerged in water? This line stands alone and is not adjacent to any building.
Buy a Infrared Thermometer to check the temperature.
Hi Jackie!
Unfortunately, yes you will need to remove the insulation but wet insulation doesn’t insulate well and it’s just as important as the heat tape so you will want to replace it every 3 years or so too. The heat tape will be directly on the pipe and the fiberglass insulation over that and then the vapor tape (or seal) around the fiberglass. Best of luck!
Hi Autumn,
It is possible and that’s the ideal home situation. Instead of putting a bunch of heat tape all over your pipes you should spend the money to properly insulate the home so that you don’t need heat tape. Not needing heat tape is a good sign that the home and its plumbing system were well designed and thought out during installation. They may have boxed the vertical pipe and placed the horizontal beside the heat ducts.
Thanks for reading!
Is it possible that the pipes never ever freeze especially in Strafford County, NH? Owners claimed it’s been 10 years without any heat tape. Their double wide is a 2001.
I currently have insulation wrapped around all my water pipes – I have looked at various videos and the heat tape is used directly on the pipe and then wrapped with insulation. does this mean that I have to cut all the insulation off to install all new heat tape?
Hi Arthur,
There are some heat tapes that have lights but other than that I don’t know of any way. Sorry!
Hi Charissa,
I know I’ve answered this comment before but my commenting system in on the fritz so I’m answering it again, sorry. Yes, please turn your heat wrap off after the last freeze and turn it on before the first fall freeze. You only need to during the winter.
Thanks for reading Mobile Home Living!
hi,
Once I install my heat tape on my mobile home under the skirting, is there any way I can see if it is plugged in and working from outside?
Thanks
I have an inside switch to activate my heat wrap…..I live in Wisconsin…should I turn this off in the spring and summer months….to preserve my heat wrap for longer duration..or is it safer to leave it on all year..? I am a newbie for manufactured home living….my unit was made in 2014
Hi Katie,
I’m not familiar with heat tape that would use any adhesive. Pex doesn’t either but if there’s some new product I’m not familiar with then zip ties sounds right (they are like duct tape – they work on everything..lol). I’m in WV and SC though so I’m not familiar with how things are done up North. Ya’ll get such cold weather! Best of luck!
Hi Trish,
This doesn’t sound right at all. At that price you could better insulate your entire home (better skirting, new insulation under the home, etc). Heat tape should only be used temporarily and your power bill would be unbelievable…Do NOT deal with the person that suggested you do this. They are idiots.
We have a single wide 1972 mobile home. All new pex piping throughout, no copper left at all. Located in Northeast USA. We do not have heat going through duct work under the home. Which type of heat tape is safe on pex piping? All instructions I’m finding on heat tapes say not for pex. Some research I’ve done has said that it is due to the adhesives used to attach the heat tape and an alternative it to use zip ties, is this true?
Can you pices part heat tape> front and back of mobile home. Or do you need to wrap all the pipe from on end to the other? I was told I need 67 ft of heat tape and in the ball park of $1500.00 to $2000.00 Does that sound right>
Thank you
Hi Scott,
We only put heat tape on the water line between the ground and the home. The heat from the vents and the protection from the skirting, insulation, and belly wrap is plenty enough to keep our lines flowing (we are in WV so it can get below 10 degrees). The more tape you apply the more you’ll need to worry about but maybe just start off with the exposed line and see if that works.
Best of luck!
Just purchased a 2008 Eagle River mobile home, never lived in before. It’s a double wide, and we are looking to put heat tape on the pipes. We are getting conflicting suggestions as to doing the whole trailer or just to do half.
What do you all Suggest?
Hi Chuck!
3-5 years is the average. If there’s no exposed wires and it’s still working you should be fine to use it.
my heat tape put om 3 years ago, when will have to be replaced?